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About bobcoss

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  1. smarcar, Get yourself a load box like the two notes torpedo captor to connect your tube amp to your powercab.
  2. Tigger, A 1/4 TRS to XLR cable is always mono (balanced). This is essential to reduce signal noise picked up on long runs of cable to the FOH. If you wire up a normal 1/4 cable to an XLR, it won't have one of the sides and will pick up noise. It's a bit confusing at first because folks often associate TRS with a stereo connection. The stomp uses 1/4 TRS because of the small footprint of the box. Best to get the correct cable(s) so you can use it in all situations.
  3. You don't have to update the DT25 to 2.0, but it would be a good idea. You get more built-in preamp models (only controllable via DT Edit). Yes, you have to purchase a compatible midi USB cable. I don't remember the specifics, but it's been talked about here a lot. I know I had to upgrade to get my helix to work properly with the DT25. I have an HD500x. When I use L6L, I use either a Preamp model or sometimes a full model if it sounds better. It does override the preamp in the DT25. You can use HDEdit to set the topology and stuff for the DT25 and save that in a patch. With a stomp (I don't have one) , you should be able to put the stomp in front of the the HD400, and select the amp model you want, and let the signal flow through the HD400. You might be able to setup a patch that selects and amp and control for the DT25, and then bypass the amp in the HD400. That would take some experimentation but might yield cool results. And of course, you can run the output from the stomp directly into the effects return of the DT25, and use the switches on the DT25 to control the output stage. That should sound very good.
  4. You can control the gain to the input of the PowerCab. I've used a variety of different modelers into the PC+ 112, and I sometimes have to bump up the gain (input level) for the input I'm using. For example, I was using a Mooer GE150 into the PC+, and it only has output at instrument level. That's not enough signal out of the box into the PC+ to get really loud, so I simply bumped up the gain (input level) for the 1/4 on the PC+ until I was getting the indicator to hit yellow and an occasional flash of red when I dig in. Bob
  5. If you are looking for that "Amp in the room" sound and feeling, you might not be happy with the PowerCab+ models. But I am very happy with my PowerCab+ in either FRFR or in speaker emulation modes. I think most of the problems are because folks are not getting the gain staging right. Jason Sadites recently did a youtube video on getting great sound with the PowerCab from the Helix. A 212 greenback cab is going to sound great, but will limit the flexibility you may want to get out of the kit.
  6. Sorry. I just saw your question. Sometimes I make the adjustment on the PC+, but that is only if the helix, or other modeler doesn't have enough output. The LT does have a lot of headroom, so you can adjust the level in the output section until it starts to flash red and back it off. Since I saw this thread, I saw Jason Sadites created a video to address this. In another video he addressed how to do the gainstaging properly also.
  7. No. They are completely different. You should be able to create "similar" presets on the S5 by reviewing the settings for the patch on the S4. The amp models are different, but you do have more options available to you to get close. It will be a manual process though. I just created new presets for the S5 from scratch. "
  8. Hi, I did something like this a couple of months ago with my Mooer GE150 (my Helix emergency backup) and I have the HXE Send at instrument ( because I want the effects in front of the amp simm in the GE150 to be at instrument level, and the return at line (which is what the output for the GE150 does). It sounds great. I was shocked how well the amp and cab sim sounds in that cheap multieffects. I don't plan on taking both the HXE and the GE150 as a backup, but I was thinking about building a small board with the two as a small lightweight travel board. Bob
  9. When I'm at home and in a "small room" I crank my tube amp up! Drives my wife crazy. But if I don't want to be loud. I use my Helix and PowerCab + 112 at lower volumes. There are going to be differences in the EQ at lower volumes than at stage volumes. I personally don't bother with the tube amp at home much any more. The Helix provides everything I need. It's very nice going to gig without carrying a tube amp and cabinet now. If you have to practice with the tube amp, then I would get a reactive load box with and IR loader so you can use roughly the same settings and saturate the tubes. There Two Notes and Suhr are very popular.
  10. I have the HD500x, Helix Floor, and DT25. I don't use the DT25 much any more. I use it when I want to get the amp in the room feel sometimes. When I use either of the multi-effects units, there is a lot of flexibility and the sounds is great. I have never noticed the digital artifacts other talk about. I do make sure I am carefully setting up my gain staging of my distortion pedals and the preamp for the guitar I'm using. If you already have the DT25, you have an idea of what the HD500 is going to sound like. The preamps in the DT25 come from from the standard HD models, and the reverbs as well. With our load box and IR loader, you can get a lot of flexibility with the DT25. Though I might point out that the DT25 has most of that advantage built in. You can select the output topology and cabinet in the DT25, and that goes to XLR out. You might get some unexpected variations including the load box. The control of the DT25 from both units is very good. You can set your patches to control everything. That said. for the last couple of years I play mostly the Helix Floor through my PowerCab+ 112 and though headrush 112 FRFR speakers more than anything. Happy playing!
  11. Since AMP1 is working no matter how you cabled it up, why don't you try the 5 cable method using only the preamp of amp1 Cable #1 Guitar=> Helix LT Guitar Input Fx Loop 1 block Cable #2 Helix LT Send #1=> Amp#1 Main Input Cable #3 Amp#1 FX Loop Send => Helix LT Return #1 Cable #4 Helix LT 1/4 Left Output => Amp#1 FX Loop Return Cable Cable #5 Helix LT 1/4 Right Output => Amp#2 FX Loop Return Cable Then if it's not working, swap cable 4 and 5 with Amp1 and 2's return. If they problem swaps, then you might have a helix issue or the effects returns are expecting different levels or the output of the two preamps is different. Still not working properly? You could then switch to using AMP 2's preamp and see if AMP1 is now much louder. Hope you get it figured out!
  12. I have both a DT25 and PowerCab 112+. Both work great with my HD500x and Helix. I have to say that I use my PowerCab 112+ more than the DT25 now. It's just easier to deal with. Both sound fantastic. For the HD500, if you want you can use the preamp with the DT25, and you specify the speaker emulation/mic, and the DT25 adjusts, and you have full control over the topology of the amp. Some people use a full amp model because they like the sounds. When you use it with the PowerCab, none of the amp controls work, and you mostly use the PC as a FRFR speaker, or you use the PC+ and an Impulse Response, or a "speaker emulation". When you do that, you probably would want to use "none" for the speaker model in the HD500. I was bummed that you can't use both DT25 and PC at the same time with the L6Link cable. I won't be making video comparisons or anything beyond my description above.
  13. I did it in various configurations with the HX Effects before I bought my Helix Floor. It depends on what you want to do with it of course. Stomp going into pod would allow you to have all the nice dirt boxes in front of the amp and then just use the HD500 for volume pedal, delays and reverbs etc. You should be able to send midi from the HD500 to control the stomp and use the tap temp of the HD500 to set timing.
  14. That should work. Setting up the delay and reverb can be a challenge if you don't want to hear any of the dry signal in the mix with the wet. I got the best result running the delay and reverb in parallel with the mix all the way up to block the dry signal. If you want the reverb on the delay repeats, you can always add another reverb after the delay for them. lots of things to try. Going Stereo is a lot easier and cheaper!
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