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Everything posted by bobcoss

  1. I've used headphone out before with computer speakers and a small bluetooth speaker with an aux in jack.. It worked fine.
  2. If you use the output section to control the PC+ parameters, you won't see the values change on the PC+ as values change....
  3. Once upon a time I hooked up my DT25 via L6l panned to the left channel, and used the 1/4 out on the HD500 to my Peavy Classic 30's effects return. I messed around with a number of variations. There isn't two channels on the DT25 so you can get Stereo as psarkissian mentioned. I got nice stereo separation from them. I don't remember exactly how I did it. But without question, you can take one of the 1/4 out into DT25 guitar in , and the other to a different amp and get stereo. I never bothered to buy another DT25 to do stereo because I've made a pact with myself to never buy another tube amp. I only use them at home for fooling around now. There are nice affordable FRFR options these days if you want. My biggest dissapointment about the Powercab Plus 112 was that I couldn't chain the DT25 and the PC+ to do strereo. Oh well...
  4. I do think it's worthwhile to mix/match amp models, cabinets and mics is a whorthwhile endeavor. The problem is that matching a guitarists recorded tone is challenging. Among the challenges are the post processing that studios do after recording, and the quality of the headphones/speakers used to reproduce the song. Spider V has a lot of flexibility, but you might need to add pedals or try a different modeling system to get what you are looking for. Set your expectations to get "close" enough to be happy and just play guitar!
  5. Tone matching is always a challenge. Downloading a patch almost always sounds different because the person creating the patch uses a different guitar, pickups, room setup etc. When building the patch, I would start out with the amp with the default cab and tweak the gain and tone knobs till it is faily close. You may want to try different Marshall variants of which there are a lot on Spider V. Then try different cabinets and microphones until you find something you think is closest. It could be that the artist sets the gain on the amp model to edge of breakup and throws a distortion or overdrive pedal in front of it. The combinations are a bit overwhelming. It's never going to be an exact match.
  6. I have the spider V 240hc and I'm using it on an old Peavey 412 cabinet . I think it sounds fine. I never got around to purchasing the official 4x12 cabinet. The great thing about the Spider V 240HC is that you don't need to plug it into a cabinet to get great sound. I don't think you need to rush out and get the Spider V cabinet. To use your 212 combo as a cabinet, you will have to rig up a connector to the back 240hc. One speaker for each output. I don't think that is going to work very well. If you are wanting to capitalize on stereo effects. Consider two 2x12 cabinets so you can get some separation. Stereo effects in a 4x12 cabinet are kind of a useless.
  7. I don't think you will find either amplifiers a perfect match for the Helix LT. There are several ways to approach using them: - Both have a 1/8 stereo auxilary in jack which you can use with a shielded 1/4 stereo out to 1/8 jack to the headphones out on your LT. I've done this with my Helix floor to my Spider V 240hc. It works well, but I get a bit more noise than when I go direct to the mixer, Powercab +, or my FRFR speakers. - Another option is to setup your LT patch and go into the guitar input on the amps but specify "no amp" . I don't mess around with this because I don't think it sounds very good. You woud be served better by selling both amps and getting a powercab or one of the other FRFR solutions.
  8. I have never tried it, but the power cab plus specifications indicate you can use the USB connector for both input and output. Hook it up to your computer instead and use it as the interface in and out. Then you don't need to use the irig or behringer.
  9. Record you guitar directly through the Spider V60 amp plugged into your computer using USB and the appropriate driver. You should get better sound going direct from your Spider V. Plug your microphone into the computer using your interface and it's drivers. To hear yourself in the Mic, you might have to plug monitors or speakers into the audio interface to eliminate the latency.
  10. I've never tried to figure it out, but you can send MIDI contol info via a MIDI cable from your HD to the PC+. I don't think there is a way to do MIDI between them over the L6L cable.
  11. Setup your chain with the analog pedals so you aren't adding more A/D or D/A conversions. So put dirt pedals in front of the chain, and maybe time based effects between the stomp output and the HXE return. You should be able to get good results whatever you are doing. I'm kinda doing the same thing with my HX Effects, some pedals and the super cheap Mooer GE150 which I purchased as a backup for my helix. Everything sounds awesome. I'm now thinking about mounting it all on a pedal board because the whole thing is smaller and easier to transport than the Helix Floor.
  12. From my experience with the Spider V 240HC with and without a 4x12 cabinet. The stereo effect is hardly noticable because the speakers are too close to each other. You have to use effects that are not very busy to notice it, and you have to get up very close. I have 2 Headrush FRFR 112 speakers and with my Helix I really enjoy the stereo effects because I can place them wherever I want. I also have a Powercab 112 Plus and am contemplating purchasing another one to enjoy the stereo effects. I also have studio monitors that work great to experience stereo sound. I have lots of fun creating wet/dry/wet with the PC and the HR cabinets. I would personally purchase 2 PC+ instead of a 212 to experience stereo.
  13. It depends on what you want that is Stereo. If you want two different amp types for left and right, then you create parallel paths and pan each amp to the side you want. If don't care about the amp, but want lush washy delay and reverbs, then you just need to select the stereo effects for the blocks you are adding after the amp, and make sure you don't stick a mono effect after the stereo blocks. You run your TSR output to Front of House and pan each channel on the mixer so you get the separation. Each path on the HX is stereo so it will work without creating extra paths unless you want to do something like put a Vox AC30 on the left and Fender Delux on the right. Options are very flexible. The strereo effects sound great.
  14. The topic of using FRFR, Amplifiers and cabinets, input to tube amps etc has been discussed here exhaustively. Search through the site here and thegearpage.com. Google is your friend! I don't think you should have any issues practicing noodling at bedroom volumes on your l2t. It should only matter when you are dialing in for gig volumes. I think you can control the digital output from your helix if you are getting compliants. I don't think you are going to be satisfied using AV and bookshelf speakers. If you just need some lower volume solutions for when you are getting yelled at by the family, try some decent computer speakers into the headphone jack... I use primarily use my powercab 112 Plus. When I am working on/dialing in patches, I crank it to gig volumes. I also have a pair of Headrush 112 powered FRFR speakers. They are very good. I get similar results as with the powercab depending on what I am doing. I like to create Wet-Dry-Wet scenarios sometimes. Sounds fantastic in my ears. I also run thing through my JBL powered 8 inch monitors when practicing at my desk going through my interface. All of these solutions make me get up and turn down the volume on the back of the speakers..... I think it is key to dial things in at gig volumes with backing tracks so you know how you are going to sound in a mix. Also pay attention to gain staging on your helix when building your patches. Happy researching....
  15. I've tried a few of the small "Blue tooth" types of speakers with modelers over the years, and oddly enough, they can sound good for things like jamming by the pool etc. But I couldn't handle the latency. I don't know about the JBL clip, but the others I've tried have too much latency when you plug into the 1/4 inch jack. I have the JBL 8inch monitors. They are ok. I prefer the Headrush FRFR 112s. I hear the Headrush FRFR 8 inch speakers are reputed to be decent and afordable. Whatever you buy, make sure you can return it easily if it doesn't work.
  16. Just open HXEdit for Helix and HXEdit for HX Effects and drag and drop the blocks you want from the Helix to HXE however you want. Works great.
  17. That's too bad. I agree that it must be the PC+ 212 at fault. The HD500 should work great with the PC+. You can use the speaker emulations and IR's in the PC+ with the HD500. You just turn off the speaker emulation. Works great. It's so nice to have other options with the HD500
  18. Hi Carl, I quickly hooked up my HD500X to my Powercab 112 Plus using a known good AES cable for L6L (works between my Helix floor and both my DT25 and the PC+). I'm getting signal from the HD500X and it's working just fine from my perspective. I didn't have to do any switch changes or anything special in the HD500 L6L settings. Hope you can get this figured out.
  19. Hi, I also bought a Mooer GE150. I purposed to use it as a backup for my helix and possibly as for flight board with my HX Effects. I've been playing around with it, and it works fine out of the box with my Powercab +. I changed the DB for input 1 to +8, and when I hit the strings hard, I get the input signal indicator hitting yellow. Moved it up to 12, and it was going to red alot. I was using a simple patch with just the Fender Deluxe amp and now effects. Anything pushing the input of a PC or PC+ more is going to add unwanted distortion. You DO NOT need a separate preamp. I have started messing around with turning off the CAB block and using the "Jarvis" speaker emulation and it sounds pretty good, but the PC+ isn't emulating the power output which in the Mooer GE150 is part of the cab block. It's nice that you can change tube topologies in the cab block. So far, I'm very impressed. I wish I could control the GE150 better, but I don't plan on using it for the effects if I have the HX Effects on a pedal board with it. One thing I can say about the Mooer GE150 is that it is small, light, and can be easily transported for a backup to a real tube amp or modeler. The Powercab + continues to amaze me.
  20. There are not a lot of folks using the Helix with the DT Amps. Once you get connected and have figured out how to setup your output to the DT, it's pretty much whatever sounds best to you. You might get someone's recommendation on what topology they use but I doubt it. I've had some fun with my DT25, but I've not messed around with it for a while because I don't take the DT out of the house and gig only with the Helix and in-ears. I have to make too many changes in my favorite patches to go back and forth, so I have gotten lazy. Maybe I'll delve back into it now. Enjoy that extra connectivity.
  21. The great thing about Helix is that you have many different options. I have 2 HR FRFR112, DT25, and Powercab+ (PC+112) for playing/practicing/experimenting at home. I get great results in pretty much any combination I dream up. I'm blown away by the wet-dry-wet setup using the FRFR112 and Powercab+. Absolutely amazing when doing ambient stuff. But on stage, I have only used in-ears. I just don't feel like lugging around more stuff now. But there are legitimate reasons for wanting a back line or floor monitors etc. For me, the most important reason would be that the guitar interacts with the sound of amplification nearby. , especially a loud tube amp. For some reason, that interaction inspires players beyond just playing their practiced parts. Everyone is different of course. The nice thing about the PC+ is that you can plug into the back and send it directly to FOH. It's nice to be able to put IR's on the PC+ or use the speak emulations directly. It offloads some load from the Helix. You could do the same from the FRFR112 I suppose, but there is no reason to do so because you have both XLR outputs (to go directly to FOH) and 1/4 outputs to go to your FRFR112's. And if you setup your Helix up to have the volume button control only the 1/4 outs (like i do), then you can control the FRFR112 volume from the helix using the master volume and not change the input gain on the FOB board. Enjoy your gear!
  22. Please share the solution that you figured out. Maybe you will help someone else.
  23. Amsdenj's recommendations are critical to get good gain staging in your LT. That is critical for getting good sound to whatever you are using whether it be front of house, K10's, or the Powercab. One of the things I love about the powercab + is that it has an LED to indicate the input levels, and flashes RED when its starting to clip. So as you build your patch, set your LT to unity gain (no blocks turned on) and adjust the input to your powercab so that it's flashing on your loudest strums in the yellow. Some might say it could flash briefly in the red, but I adjust the input on the powercab until I get a flash of red, and then back it off a little. Then you add your preamp/amp/cab/ blocks and watch that LED as you build the patch. That has saved me lots of efforts in leveling my patches for live play even if gigging without my powercab. Always check as you add distortion/overdrive blocks, or any block that has a level or gain settting. The powercab is brilliant! Gain staging is something that most folks overlook. When using someone else's patches. The first thing you should do is follow the procedure I outlined above and get the amp sim to unity gain followed by all of the other blocks. Oh and if you are going to add a "boost" to your patch, make sure it doesn't drive your powercab into distortion. That might entail setting everything else lower to start with. Hope you have great success. Bob
  24. Phil is correct. In general, you will plug the output of the g5n to the guitar in of the V240. Note you should make sure the output of the g5n is set to instrument level. Don't enable any amp or cabinet modeling on the g5n to just use the effects in the g5n. If you want to use the amp/cab modeling on the g5n, you could setup the V240 to have no amp. An alternative is to take the headphone ouptut of your g5n with a stereo cable to the AUX in on the back of the V240 in which case you are using it as a FRFR speaker (more or less). Bob
  25. It depends on your amp. If you are taking the effects out from your amp (you mention pre-amp out) into the HXE, that ofteny engages a switch or something that requires you to then take the output from your effects back into the return on the amp to get output from the power amp stage. If you have a signal in the Pre-Amp out, and signal still gets to the output stage on your amp, then what you show will work. Guitar ----Amp-------Cabinet A - Dry I Pre-Amp out-----HX Effects (Internal signal path-----Noise Gate--------Volume Pedal--------Pitch modulation-----delay--) Out to Power Amp input 1---------Cabinet B ---Out to Power Amp input 2----- ---Cabinet C If it's like all of my amps, you need to do the following: Guitar -> Amp guitar in->Effects send-> HXE Input ->(Noise Gate->Volume block-> Split block-> Pitch mod ->stereo delay)---Left-Out -> Power Amp input 1- ---Cab B | ---Right Out -> Power Amp input 2----Cab C -> Send block -> effect send)-> Amp Effects Return -> Cab A - Dry Well. Something like that. I had to do this from memory. The HX Effects will do it for you.
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