bobcoss

I seem to remember having a problem like this 8 or 9 years ago. I remember there is a procedure for for calibrating the pedal. Google it. There is a lot of info about it. Maybe that will solve your problem.

Safe mode is for restarting your amp after you had a problem flashing the firmware in a previous attempt. I don't think it will make any difference in helping with MIDI issues. I don't remember the sequence, but you might want to do a factory reset.....

I use the Helix Floor more than anything these days. At home I hook it up to a couple of Powercab+112 or DT25 amps. The integration is very nice, and it sounds fantastic. But when I leave my Helix at the practice space, I pull out an HD500 to play/practice. It doesn't have the more advanced modeling, and vast selection of amps and effects, but it still sounds very good. The DT amps are so versatile. If you don't use a lot of effects, it might keep you happy for some time.

Do you have a scenario do you get a good sound with you HD500x and the Soundssource without the DT25? I know how to get the DT25 and powercab to sound good together, but don't know anything about the Soundsource.

Welcome. I've used my 240hc several times recently, and had no more occurrences of the clicking thing. I was just sitting here thinking how good it sounds. I might need to use this more often.

Yes. You need to use the Line 6 Updater to get the best results. There is a pinned topic in this form that emphasizes it. Backup using HX Edit, update using the line 6 updater.

Very nice! Thank you

If I was going to us the Carvin X1 preamp, I would use it as a traditional amp and 4 cable method. That is: guitar -> HX [ compressor, distortion pedal(s) ...] HX effects send 1 -> X1 input ... X1 mono send -> HX return 1 [ impulse response, volume, delay(s), reverb(s)] HX left out -> PS170 -> cabinet. I would not use the speaker out on the Carvin X1. I don't think it would add anything. BUT The Helix has such fabulous preamps and amps that I would only go live with the Helix to front of house. If you only want one sound based around the X1, then the solution above would work great.. These days, I go Guitar -> Helix -> Mixer and monitor with in-ears. If I really want stage volume or to feel the air behind me, I'll put a powercab + 112 or 2 there. I almost always use the powercabs at home for practice. Sometimes I use Line 6 DT25 amps after the Helix just so I can remember what tube amps sounds like (to me exactly just like the powercabs... Ha!) The think I love about using the DT25 amps for my power stage is that I can use different topologies. It's amazing the options available.

You didn't mention how you went about the upgrade. With my HX Effects, I downloaded the latest HX Edit from the main downloads section of the line6.com website and installed that. It puts the most recent version of line6 updater, drivers, and of course hx edit. Next you connect your HX Effects to the computer, and back it up. You can skip that step if you haven't created any patches. After that, run the Line 6 Updater. It will prompt you through the process and will likely suggest you install firmware 3.02 (The latest I have installed on mine). Always start with the HX Edit download in the future. I imagine it failed because you had such an old version of the HX Edit installed on your computer.

Here are a couple of other ways you can connect the Helix to your Spider V: 1. Connect the 1/4 Left (mono) to the input of your S5. If you use the amp and cab/IR in the Helix, then select a user patch on the S5 that has no amp or cabinet selected. You can do the opposite and bypass amp/cab/ir blocks, and have the patch on the S5 do the amp and cab simulation. Both should yield decent results. I use an HX Effects into my 240hc and I get good results. I've never bothered to hook up my helix to directly though. 2. Take the stereo headphone outputs from your Helix to the Auxiliary input on the S5. That has worked nicely for me on my 240hc.

I have had the clicking thing happen a few times to me lately. Though I think I had to manually turn it off and restart it to get normal behavior. I tried it just now and it started right up and sounded great. I don't use it much anymore, but it sits next to my office desk so I can noodle around during phone meetings when I'm on mute..... I haven't felt the need to open a ticket about it. Have you created a ticket with Line 6 yet?

When you control the Powercab+ from your Helix as shown in the screen prints above, the Indicator on the Powercab doesn't change. When you flip through options via HX Edit with your Helix, you can hear the differences between the modes, models, and IRs. I hope they get around to remedying this because it doesn't inspire confidence when you are building your patches.

I don't really understand why you would do the second effects send/return. I prefer to have modulation, delays, reverbs after the IR unlike you would do with a real amp with a send/return. I would just do the following: GUITAR -> HX FX main input -> wah -> compressor -> fx send 1-> external overdrives-> amp front -> captor line out->FX return 1->IR block->modulation, delays and reverbs->HX out to audio interface

bverdon: Regarding tone alone... if you have keep one and get rid of the other, where would you stand? B, I would have only the PowerCab+ 112

Besides using the AUX in, there are several other ways to use it: 1. You can use the stomp for effects only going into a Spider V patch. That way your use helix effect in front of the SV amp and cabinet 2. Build you stomp patch with a preamp or amp model (no cab) and send the output to your SV with the patch to have "no amp" and the desired cabinet, mic emulation. 3. You can use a full amp, cab(or IR) and go to the guitar in on the SV and have your patch do no amp and cab. Using those options, you can throw delay and reverb from the SV at the end of the overall chain where a lot of folks prefer it. Happy modeling!

With the Spider V, You might experience amp model overload.... There are so many amp models included, and they don't translate exactly to the older spider series. I have the 240hc, and I have fun just spinning through the amp models and trying different settings. I've got it sitting on an old peavey 4x12 with stereo and I'm very happy with it. I must say that I use my Helix and Powercab+ 112 more than the 240hc. You will likely be amazed at the sound of just the head by itself. BTW. You can find used 240hc mark I around for quite a savings and it's upgradable to the same firmware as the mark II.

HI, I keep tossing these ideas around also. I see there are a bunch of "Hybrid" amps out there that have a tube in their preamp and use a class D power section. On Amazon, I see several by Orange, and Joyo among others. I have no experience with these. My beloved Line 6 DT25 is the opposite using a hybrid digital preamp with a tube power amp with the flexibility to change amp topologies from within helix patches. It really sounds great. I still have to admin I use my Powercab+ 112 the most. But I found recently, If I hook up the L6Link cable to my DT25 first, and then a jumper to the Powercab+, both work together! I don't have the control over the powercab when I do that and there is no stereo, but I like getting a dual cab sound.

Armond, If you haven't already, use one of the DT Edit programs to see what all of the current settings are for your topologies. You can always reset it to factory and then note what was in place via DT Edit. I had no idea that there was so much going on in the Amp until I fired up DT Edit. So many options. I love my DT25.

smarcar, Get yourself a load box like the two notes torpedo captor to connect your tube amp to your powercab.

Tigger, A 1/4 TRS to XLR cable is always mono (balanced). This is essential to reduce signal noise picked up on long runs of cable to the FOH. If you wire up a normal 1/4 cable to an XLR, it won't have one of the sides and will pick up noise. It's a bit confusing at first because folks often associate TRS with a stereo connection. The stomp uses 1/4 TRS because of the small footprint of the box. Best to get the correct cable(s) so you can use it in all situations.

You don't have to update the DT25 to 2.0, but it would be a good idea. You get more built-in preamp models (only controllable via DT Edit). Yes, you have to purchase a compatible midi USB cable. I don't remember the specifics, but it's been talked about here a lot. I know I had to upgrade to get my helix to work properly with the DT25. I have an HD500x. When I use L6L, I use either a Preamp model or sometimes a full model if it sounds better. It does override the preamp in the DT25. You can use HDEdit to set the topology and stuff for the DT25 and save that in a patch. With a stomp (I don't have one) , you should be able to put the stomp in front of the the HD400, and select the amp model you want, and let the signal flow through the HD400. You might be able to setup a patch that selects and amp and control for the DT25, and then bypass the amp in the HD400. That would take some experimentation but might yield cool results. And of course, you can run the output from the stomp directly into the effects return of the DT25, and use the switches on the DT25 to control the output stage. That should sound very good.

You can control the gain to the input of the PowerCab. I've used a variety of different modelers into the PC+ 112, and I sometimes have to bump up the gain (input level) for the input I'm using. For example, I was using a Mooer GE150 into the PC+, and it only has output at instrument level. That's not enough signal out of the box into the PC+ to get really loud, so I simply bumped up the gain (input level) for the 1/4 on the PC+ until I was getting the indicator to hit yellow and an occasional flash of red when I dig in. Bob

If you are looking for that "Amp in the room" sound and feeling, you might not be happy with the PowerCab+ models. But I am very happy with my PowerCab+ in either FRFR or in speaker emulation modes. I think most of the problems are because folks are not getting the gain staging right. Jason Sadites recently did a youtube video on getting great sound with the PowerCab from the Helix. A 212 greenback cab is going to sound great, but will limit the flexibility you may want to get out of the kit.

Sorry. I just saw your question. Sometimes I make the adjustment on the PC+, but that is only if the helix, or other modeler doesn't have enough output. The LT does have a lot of headroom, so you can adjust the level in the output section until it starts to flash red and back it off. Since I saw this thread, I saw Jason Sadites created a video to address this. In another video he addressed how to do the gainstaging properly also.

No. They are completely different. You should be able to create "similar" presets on the S5 by reviewing the settings for the patch on the S4. The amp models are different, but you do have more options available to you to get close. It will be a manual process though. I just created new presets for the S5 from scratch. "