gtrman100

Spider amps being computers, sometimes glitch on boot up. Unless it happens regularly, I wouldn't worry to much. Also, using a surge suppressor is a good idea.

What recording program are you using? There are different reasons you are having the problem. 1. if you are recording into a typical daw- Pro Tools, Cubase, Cakewalk, you have to designate which is master and which is slave. The Spider should be the master and you can monitor through the Spider speakers or use the line outputs into your system to monitor 2. the sample rate of the Spider is not matching the sample rate of your recording program. Try different sample rates in the recording program- 44.1, 48k etc and that should solve your problem. Check out this video which can help explain. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OeWtRSGHlYw

I had the same problem until I realized you need to connect both midi in and midi out cables to your midi interface. Hope that helps.

First, there is no Spider V15, it's a Spider V20, so I imagine that's the one you've tried. The difference between the 20 and the 60 is night and day in terms of sound quality and flexibility. - updated modeling based on Amp Farm with new algorithms - over 70 amp models and 130 effects with full tweakabiliy - the drum loops, metronome, guitar riffs, tuner, looper - built in wireless capability - usb recording - customtone, and cloud preset sharing The Spider Jam is 12 year old technology, no warranty, and missing many features of the current Spider V series. I think it's a no brainer to get the newer amp, and my suggestion would be to move up to the Spider V 120 because it will keep up with a drummer if you ever want to jam with other musicians. My $.02

I'm not certain what you're trying to accomplish. First, which Spider V do you have? They have different options for outputs. If you don't use the internal speaker, how are you going to amplify the Spider? Are you going to use another cabinet, the line out into another amp or the line out into a powered speaker? You know you can't plug a speaker output of an amp into another amp. Before you go through the hacking up of your amp and void the warranty, I'd make sure you do the update to Spider V MkII if you haven't already. The revision of the amp models is dramatically better and you might be satisfied with the sound of the speaker with the firmware update.

Are you using the Spider Edit app on PC or Mac? That will do just about everything you've asked for. You can't drag an drop presets, but you can save on the app, go directly to the cloud, reorder presets by dragging, import or export presets, etc. Check it out.

I'm not sure what you mean by "table top amps", but there are a variety of clean amp options under "Clean" (lol) when you look at the amp menu on Spider Edit-Line 6 Super Clean, Sparkle Clean, etc. Most of the time, when using pedals, you'll want to look for an amp model that has the basic tone you want and put the pedal in front of that model. In other words, if you want a Marshall type sound, find a Marshall amp model that sounds close to what you're looking for, and use that as your pedal platform. HOWEVER! The Spider V series are digital modeling amps, meant to be an all in one solution to recreating a variety of amps and effects. They don't act like a normal tube guitar amp when using stomp pedal, etc, plugged in front. Most of the time it doesn't sound that great, but you can try it out.

That is not the right software- you need Spider V Edit- the one you've got is Spider IV Edit. It won't work with Spider V's. You need to download Line 6 Updater, and drivers before you load the software. Here's the link- https://line6.com/software/index.html

You can use either or both. I usually use the tone controls on the amp to get the sound I'm looking for. If you're in Full Range mode, you can try changing cabinets and mics. Then fine tune it using the post eq. I prefer the classic mode and usually can get good tones by starting with an amp model that's in the ballpark of the tone I'm looking for.

You know you can work this amp very simply- just twist the knobs on the front! Twist the knob under the display to scroll through the presets. Twist the knobs and get the amp sound you like when the lights are white. Push the effects button and the lights turn to colors and turn the knobs to add effects. If you like what you hear, just press and hold the button under the display- press it again to save the sound. Spider V's do have many options, but you can use it very simply if you want. Then take some time and explore other options if you like- it's easy to get some very good tones. Also, if you're connected to a computer using the usb port on the amp, go to Customtone and try some of the presets others have made.

There is only one rule- use your ears! If you have some Variax models you like, keep those. Then start experimenting with different bodies, pickups, all the possible changes and listen. There is no right or wrong, and everyone will have their own preferences on what sounds good. Have fun, that's the beauty of a Variax- no soldering necessary.

1) Yes 2) Let your ears be the judge. Personally, I think Classic mode sounds more real-er. IMO

If I could get a copy I'd really appreciate it. I have had no overheating issues with the earlier firmware. Please PM me. Thanks

When you are in Classic mode, it bypasses the cabinet modeling because the amp model is tweaked to sound through the speaker. The Full Range mode is more like sending the amp model through a PA speaker with a tweeter (like the one built into the Spider V's). So in Full Range mode the amp model is sent to the speaker cabinet model to emulate the sound of a recorded amp. That's why you have a whole range of different speaker cab models to choose from. Use whichever sounds best to you. IMO, the Classic mode sounds much better than most of the amp models in the Full Range mode. The Full Range mode is still useful to me when playing an acoustic guitar or other acoustic instrument.

You are in the same boat as the rest of us. If you search The Gear Page, you'll see that the update of the G10 basically lowered the amount of storage that the battery contains. And so the battery life is about half. I put in a support ticket because my older G10 transmitter was getting less than 2 hours of life. The new one is better, I haven't been able to determine exactly how long it will last, but I think it's around 3-3.5 hours. Nowhere close to the 8 hours advertised. If you haven't upgraded the firmware on the G10 transmitter- don't, if you don't have an overheating problem. You have to upgrade the Spider V AND the G10 transmitter. I know this is against Line 6 policy, because they consider it a safety issue, but I had my G10 for over a year without any overheating. It's up to you.