klasi

Just want to be sure & safe here. What rear speaker jack should the amp be plugged it to for my DT50 2x12? A, B, Or C?

Thanks. Lesson learned.

Is there a way I can verify on my own that a set of tubes is matched? I purchased new tubes (preamp & power) from Tube Depot for my DT50. I specifically ordered the tubes to be matched. Then I took the amp & tubes to a Line 6 certified repair shop. The shop called me later on and said the new power tubes were so mismatched that they had to order me some new ones. And I don't believe I can return the ones I got from Tube Depot. I have now, in effect, paid double to re-tube my amp. It also makes me wonder how many times any tube dealer just sends out tubes counting on the customer having no way to verify if they are truly a matched set or not.

So I took a risk on a DT50 2x12 that wouldn't power up because the price was too good. Hey, everything is repairable, right? I checked the fuse at the plug-in and it was blown. I have a replacement fuse on order. AND I noticed that one of the speakers was disconnected in back. I assume that the connection goes on the left tab. Correct? Also, I'm guessing that since one speaker was disconnected this would make the draw not 16 ohms but rather 8 ohms (the speaker out cable is coming from the 16 ohms jack). Correct? Is this a likely cause of blowing the fuse? Could this have done more damage to the amp than just blowing the fuse? I.e. the transformer and/or something else?

I've got a consistent click/pop that comes from the amp's speaker when playing. Not loud, but noticeable. The popping resembles if you weren't playing and you touched your strings with your fingers and there's a little static-like pop. However, it ONLY does this while playing. Alot. (And never on beat which is extra annoying.) Also, I'm using the direct out and I get my sound in my in-ear monitor and in my ear there is no clicking or popping while I'm playing. Ideas? Solutions?

Thanks. I didn't realize I could get 32 blocks from a Helix LT.

Curious if anyone has ever stacked two HX Effects and then controlled the effects of the 2nd unit via midi from the 1st unit? For me, once I’ve got what I consider to be the infrastructure (underlined) of my signal flow set up I’m left with only enough open slots for 3 effects. Yes, I have a couple more FX in FX Loop 2, but there’s so many more to take advantage of within the HX Effects. 4CM: Wah - Hard gate - FX loop 1 - FX Loop 2 - Chorus - Phaser - Flange - Looper - Volume pedal

Is there a Mission (or any) pedal out now that has a toe switch that works with the HX Effects? Does the HX Effects even allow for a toe-switch expression pedal?

I have firmware 2.0 installed. What Line 6 software do I use for selecting/editing the amp models in my DT25? Does Line 6 offer an editor for doing that? Or is the only option either POD HD500 Edit or a 3rd party edit like DTEdit?

If I'm running my HD500(x) into my DT25 via the L6 Link am I getting the same functionality I would be getting if I were connected via MIDI? When I switch between patches on the HD500 is it changing all the topology features in the DT25 that would happen if I were instead using a MIDI connection?

Does it matter what position the "Standby" switch is in when you toggle between "Low Volume Mode(s)"? In other words, should the amp be in "Standby" before I switch the "Low Volume Mode" one way or the other?

Don't know. Just got it today (used).

Just bought a used DT25. When I switch it to LVM the volume remains the same. The volume definitely does not go any lower. In fact, when in LVM if I turn up the master volume the sound breaks up (distorts) even more than if in the regular volume mode. Any ideas on this? I already did a factory reset. Problem remains.