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SiWatts69

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  1. SiWatts69's post in Pole mount sensor? was marked as the answer   
    Yep... 6 inches of broom handle ought to do it. AFAIK the sensor is optical.
    Anything between 30 and 35mm in diameter ought to do the trick.
  2. SiWatts69's post in Using M20D and Stagesource speakers from BACK of house? was marked as the answer   
    Yep...
     
    50' maximum (recommended) signal run, ie between any two components whether that be M20d > Speaker or Speaker > Speaker.
     
    Ipad control is your only option if the back of house is more than 50' (15m) away.
     
    You *may* be tempted to risk running a cable longer than 50'. Whether it would work reliably is open to debate. I would hazard a guess that the 50' distance is the distance within which Line6 will warrant the L6Link to retain full fidelity without and risk of signal loss and that above that distance the risk increases almost exponentially. Where it would catch you out is if the longest run is the first run, you'd wipe out everything. BUT I'd guess that the 50' distance also has a little safety factor built in. Personally though I'd not risk it.
     
    Additionally consider that you'd be running a multicore back up the room too for your signals... Keep the M20d near stage and signal runs in both directions are kept considerably shorter. A quality 16 channel multicore is likely to cost you approaching half the cost of a brand new iPad anyway. I've had minimal issues using the iPad to remote control my rig, just the iPad app disconnecting periodically... which is an issue with the wifi setup rather than an issue with the M20d.
     
    The ONLY things you can't do with the app is to engage/disengage the hardware mute buttons.
  3. SiWatts69's post in M20D - Where is the serial number? was marked as the answer   
    Either on the box it came in, or on the sticker panel on the back of the unit. though the one on the unit itself is the only one to absolutely rely upon :-) It's a small sticker with two slim barcodes on it, the first being "PN:" the second "SN: (21)" which is the serial number
  4. SiWatts69's post in Dream Stage Church Install advice pls. was marked as the answer   
    This is not "from experience" BUT consider that adding wall plates effectively doubles the number of "contact" connections and is the equivalent of trying to connect together three xlr-xlr cables into a single run.
    L6Link *advises* that any single run should be a direct run with no intermediary connections.
    As such I think you need to very carefully consider whether the risk of data disruption is worth it for the sake of tidy wall plates.
    I assume your speakers are going to be hung/fixed so would suggest that the cables are better secured in the walls but tails (of sufficient length) left to reach the speaker connection panel.
    I'm in the camp of users who recommend sticking within the recommendations given by line6.
     

    With installed cables it tends to be the physical connections that degrade (ie the xlr contacts). A backup plan isn't a bad thing but the cable routing requirements for it are totally different to the L6Link. So long as you could manually run out analogue cables should the need arise, I wouldn't see any specific benefit UNLESS you'd want to be able to run out non Line6 speaker at some point in the future. Such a backup system would happily run to wall plates.
     

    You'll probably "get away with it" but it is not recommended for regular usage.
    I've previously joined 2 (gold plated neutrik aes/ebu) cables in an emergency and didn't experience a problem BUT it's a risk I wouldn't want to take on a regular basis.
     
    When the L6Link drops (because of a bad cable or connection) there is a split second drop of sound across the entire speak run AND everything after the break doesn't come back once the M20 has re-enumerated the chain.
     
    I had a recent experience where I'd connected an L2m as a floor monitor but used a right angled neutrik xlr and the off centre weight and vibration was causing the connection to be made/broken every few seconds (though I only worked this out after the gig). Sounded really odd out front! Worked out where the break was occurring by looking at the manage l6link screen, whipped the speaker out of the chain (as I thought it was the speaker misbehaving initially) and connected the two xlr ends together. At the next song swapover, after the connection had proved stable, I whipped out one of the two cables and connected directly to the next speaker in the chain to remove the cable to cable connection.
     
    As per answer to 1, stick within the guidance given by the manufacturers. Oh, and from my experience, right angled xlr's are not appropriate for using when the speaker is in floor monitor position! (unless you have some way of securing the connectors!!!)
  5. SiWatts69's post in Setup VS scenes (again...) was marked as the answer   
    You've missed a key step...
     
    For what you've described, you need TWO scenes.
     
    The first scene is the general settings that apply for most of the set.
    The second scene is the "adjusted" one.
     
    So once you've created your basic setup (step 1)
    Save the scene with a sensible name.
    Now move onto step two to create the second adjusted scene.
    Now re-save the setup which will store both scenes as part of the setup
     
    :-)
  6. SiWatts69's post in Microphone, No Sound - Am I doing something wrong? was marked as the answer   
    Without wishing to make what appear to be dumb suggestions:
     
    The main gain knob on the back panel of the L2t needs to be set to (typically) the 12 o'clock position (there's a notch)
    Then, bring the volume of the mic up using the "Gain" knob on the side panel control.
    Check that the stereo link switch is set to DUAL MONO, else only the right hand gain knob will do anything.
    To my knowledge, no phantom power is available on any of the inputs, so you should use a dynamic microphone. Condenser mics will not work without either an outboard pre-amp capable of supplying the P48 phantom power OR a standalone phantom power supply.
  7. SiWatts69's post in How to remove a controller in the bottom strip? was marked as the answer   
    So, it is indeed a group controller.
     
    The hardware rotary knob will be coloured red/pink and the stage tab is beige. The "icon" for the knob confusingly shows green on the perform screen but the hardware knob will be red/pink!
     
    If I recall correctly:
     
    To CREATE a group encoder;
    In SETUP screen, double click the hardware rotary knob corresponding to an empty slot (in your screen grabs you have the bottom right slot empty.)
    Select which of the FX channels and input channels you wish to assign to the group.
    Name the group (if required)
    Click OK to save.
     
    To ALTER a group encoder
    In SETUP screen, double click the hardware rotary knob corresponding to the group encoder you wish to edit (top right in your screen grab)
    Add or remove inputs by selecting/deselecting in the popup.
    Click OK to save changes
     
    To DELETE a group encoder
    In SETUP screen, double click the hardware rotary knob corresponding to the group encoder you wish to delete (top right in your screen grab)
    Click "Delete group encoder"
     
     
     
     
    Input channels and FX channels can be added to one or more group encoders allowing a quick single "mute" or volume adjust of all the members of the group.
  8. SiWatts69's post in Experience with too longAES 110 ohm cable through Line6link was marked as the answer   
    It's worth adding that *some* of your problem *may* have been created by the joining of two cables together rather than specifically the length of cable run.
     
    The cable recommendations are:
     
    AES/EBU cable
    50' point to point max
    Single run (ie not joined)
     
     
    50' is approx. 15m (not 20m!!!)
  9. SiWatts69's post in Input "too hot" was marked as the answer   
    Just read your manual for your H&K Redbox DI out.
     
    It states "Use a microphone cord to patch this signal to a mixing console. Make sure the mixing console’s XLR input is set to line level. If the mixing console lacks XLR inputs or if these cannot be set to line level, you will need an XLR-to-6.3 mm-(1/4")-jack adapter readily available in music stores. The channels’ MASTER settings directly affect the signal level, but the selected POWER SOAK mode does not."
     
    So, even though it is feeding a DI output, that DI output is at LINE LEVEL.
     
    When you plug into the M20d with an XLRM it sets the input up as MIC level input. Line level is a lot hotter and typically doesn't need to pass through a mic pre-amp.
     
    Change the cable to an XLRF to 1/4" TRS balanced jack and input on any of channels 13-16 for a line level input. You can also plug in to 1-12 but make sure you select a LINE level preset.
  10. SiWatts69's post in L2m HUM USING MIX OUTPUT was marked as the answer   
    What you're most likely experiencing/hearing is a ground loop hum.
     
    These hums occur when the ground connections of two *powered* items which are connected to the same mains supply but where there is phase shift between the two earth outlets (or summat like that). Common where the two mains outlets are on different circuits but with a shared earth or where the two outlets are on the same circuit but a distance part from each other.
     
    To get rid of the hum, you need to isolate the two powered items from each other. This is achieved typically by using a DI box OR 1:1 line isolator.
     
    In items where they are intended to be connected in this way, the isolation is often built into the device eg bass amps/cabs often have DI outs. BUT it would not be expected that you'd connect a foh pa speaker's signal out to a desk directly. Desks most often don't have isolation on their inputs.
     
    You'll commonly hear hum if you connect the line level output(s) from a keyboard directly to the M20d. It goes though if you insert a DI box into the chain. The DI box also converts the keyboard's unbalanced signal to a balanced one.
     
    You need to either run a line isolator on the speaker mix out.
    OR
    Run into a DI box from your pedal board, running the "thru" on to the L2m and the balanced output to the M20d.
  11. SiWatts69's post in Lost mute mic grouping was marked as the answer   
    Put mute mics button ON.
     
    press individual channel mutes to unmute any channels you want open and mute any you want closed
     
     
    Turn mute mics button OFF et voila, the same set of inputs will be muted once more when mute mics is pressed.
     
    If you unmute a channel whilst mute mics is ON, it will no longer be muted with the mute mics button and you need to mute/unmute manually.
  12. SiWatts69's post in WiFi question was marked as the answer   
    Apple USB to Ethernet is the ONLY compatible adapter and the connection is chipset specific. You say yours is a third party one. I know someone has mentioned finding that the Moshi adapter works too. I tried a third party one (Thermaltake) and it doesn't work.
  13. SiWatts69's post in Can channels 13 to 16 used as mono inputs? was marked as the answer   
    All channels 1-12 and 13-16 are MONO channels.
     
    What's clever is that the M20 can stereo pair *any* adjacent pair, eg 1+2 or 13+14 etc
    We run 13+14 as a stereo keyboard pair and 9+10 as stereo overheads for drums.
    By pairing, the M20d applies whatever is applied to the first channel in the pair identically to the second, the only difference being PAN
  14. SiWatts69's post in M20d. Order Of Songs I A Playlist? was marked as the answer   
    Hee hee... Forum layouts catch many of us out! Scenograf... it's "jaminjimlp" who deserves your thanks. The "iknowathingortwo" is the label the forum software has applid to jim based on the number of posts he's made. In much the same way, you've been labelled "Just Startin'"
     
    Easy mistake to make and I often have to look twice. No offense intended :-)
     
    I played about with the playlist options early doors and gave up very quickly. The media player section of the M20 is one of those areas that doesn't really live up to many users expectations, but as it isn't really a core feature and is just a possibly useful add-on, I can sort of understand why it hasn't been given masses of attention to detail.
     
    As much as I hate apple and their products, I have to say that the simplest way of managing a playlist for between sets (assuming that is what you are using it for) is remotely on an iPad. Hook your iPad up via Apple Airport Express and USB to Ethernet adapter combo, insert a 3/8" stereo to 3/8" stereo jack in to the back of the airport express and plug in to the 3/8" input on the M20 and then select "Airplay" on your ipad. Now, you can have whatever playlist you want on your ipad, sorted as you want it and off you go. No need to worry about adding tracks one by one to get them in your chosen order. I guess you could also use the ipad to send backing tracks too.
  15. SiWatts69's post in Usb Dongle Wich One? was marked as the answer   
    I think you'll find a hearty "ditto" from a great number of people regarding not being a fan of apple products... I count myself in that camp too, but as with most things in life, the simplest path is the best to choose if you want a straightforward and predictable outcome, even if that simpler path costs a few quid more in the end and you have to compromise on a prior boycott of a certain conglomerates products! It's a real shame that there isn't an android option but I do understand the limitations that mean that, for now at least, the iPad is the only viable remote control method.
     
    I gave up on the dongle idea pretty quickly as it seemed almost impossible to locate any of the ones on the recommended list in the UK. I tried to sweeten the situation by choosing a cheaper usb to Ethernet adapter, unsuccessfully and then just went ahead reluctantly and picked up the apple adapter and router. It works flawlessly every time. Plus, I have an entire Northern Soul playlist on my ipad which we stream to the M20 whilst we're not playing, so there is that one massive advantage that kind of compensates for the two additional cables and one extra box.
     
    I do however agree that the video showing a dongle being plugged in and off you go is very appealing!
  16. SiWatts69's post in Wi Fi Adapters was marked as the answer   
    Ditto to BucF16's comment... save yourself a heap of headache and get the apple ones. Only a few quid more but WILL work.
  17. SiWatts69's post in Quick Changes For Vocals During A Show was marked as the answer   
    Create Scenes.
     
    Within a scene, you can modify any aspect of the mix.
     
    So, if you create a scene for each song (or group of sings) you can cycle your way through them.
     
    If you have an out front sound man, he just selects the correct scene as the song starts. There's negligible delay in the switchover from one scene to another.
     
    If you're mixing on stage, someone will need to make the switch on-stage but again, it's pretty easy.
     
    To alledgedly simplify matters, you can add a footswitch to control scenes too.BUT as I found, it's not as usable as I thought it would be.
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