MojoAxe

Just a thought; If they cannot make the scribble strips any brighter then another possible solution that might make the text more visible is to reverse the colors (white background with black text). It could be a simple global setting. I don't know if this would improve visibility or not, but its something they could try.

There is a significant dead space where nothing happens when I rock the expression pedal back. I took some measurements of the pedal on my Stadium and I found that the total rotation of the expression pedal is 16°, however no changes are registered for the first 4° of travel from the toe-down position. For instance, the Position parameter of the Wah effect ranges from 100% to 0%, but position indicator remains at 100% until the pedal has been rocked back a full 4°, at which point the parameter begins to change from 100 % to 99%, 98%, 97%, etc. 4° is 25% of the total travel of the pedal which seems excessive, so I'm wondering if there's a way to calibrate the pedal so that it begins to change parameters as soon as the pedal starts to rock back.

I played my first outdoor gig this weekend, and the display brightness issue is worse than I expected. I had planned to make a sunshield however our biggest concern this past Saturday was getting rained out so I didn't bother making a shield. Fortunately it didn't rain, but the was completely overcast. The sun was behind me making a hotspot in the overcast sky, but there was never any direct sunlight. I normally keep the displays on about 80% brightness in the house but outdoors the displays weren't visible at all at this setting. I turned the touchscreen and scribble strips to max brightness. From a playing position the scribble strips were unreadable due to the sky reflecting on the glass surface. I had step up directly over the Stadium in which case I could read the scribble strip, but barely. The only button LEDs that were visible were those colored red. Any other color was washed out completely. Reflections were not an issue with the touchscreen so its was more legible, although it was faint even at max brightness. I got through the gig, but if it had been a bright sunny day I might have been dead in the water. I have four outdoor gigs next month so making a sunshield is going to be imperative. If the sun is behind me then the displays may not be bright enough even with a shield. I plan to dust off my trusty Boss GT-1000 as a backup just in case the sunlight makes the Stadium unusable. In my opinion, using OLEDs for the scribble strips rather than LCDs (like the OG Helix) is a major design flaw. LCDs are highly visible in direct sunlight because they don't rely on backlighting to be seen. The Stadium's scribble strips aren't in color, so I don't understand why they changed from LCDs to OLEDs. With the exception of when I'm using the tuner, I can get by without seeing the touchscreen, but seeing the scribble strips is essential.

I've got a dozen outdoor gigs on the schedule already and I'm concerned that the scribble strips will be impossible to see. The Helix Floor has LCDs which are highly visible in direct sunlight, but the Stadium's OLEDs wash out. Making a sunshade is on my list of things to do next week.

That was the first thing that came to my mind. On several occasions when swapping Agora amps which have linked cabs I have accidently ended up with two cabs in series which sounds like crap. An Amp + Cab clone should not have any cab blocks in the chain since the cab is built into the clone file.

Okay, that makes sense. Since you're using backline amps provided by the venue, then I'll guess that you're probably going to keep things simple by running one cable from the Stadium to the amp's 1/4" input (rather than stringing extra cables cables for 4 cable method). In this case I think the thing to do is to have a preset with two parallel path chains. In the attached image, Path A is has the output routed to the XLR, so this would be the FOH chain. It includes Amp and Cab blocks with effects blocks both before and after them. Path B has the identical effects blocks but it doesn't have an Amp or Cab block. The output of this path is routed to the 1/4" output, so this chain is sent to the amplifier on stage. Building path B would simply be a matter of doing a copy 'n paste of the blocks from Path A. You'll just have to be aware that when you adjust parameters on one of the blocks that you'll need to duplicate the change on the other path (which is a simple copy 'n paste overwrite of the existing block). Be sure that the output of Path A is "XLR Direct" and Path B is "1/4" Direct". A stereo signal from Path A can be sent to the FOH by using two XLR cables. The same stereo effects blocks can be used on Path B because if you use one 1/4" cable out of the L/MONO jack, Stadium will sum both channels to a mono signal. One thing to keep in mind is that a mono effects block will sum a stereo signal to mono signal, so for whichever blocks are to be stereo, make sure that there aren't any mono blocks downstream from them. Amp and Cab blocks are mono, so stereo blocks must follow them.

If you're sending the full chain of blocks to both FOH and the guitar amplifier then this is very simple: - Left and right XLR to the FOH - Left/Mono 1/4" out to the amp (or an FRFR). Sending the full chain of blocks including Amp and Cab blocks to the FOH but subtracting the Amp and Cab blocks to the guitar amp is a different story, especially if you're running in 4-cable mode with some effects going into the amp's input and other effects going into the amp's effects loop. In that case I think it might be necessary to have two separate chains in the preset, a modeled path for the FOH and an effects-only path for the guitar amp. You would need to duplicate the blocks on each of the paths. This also means that if you change block parameters on one path then you need to duplicate the change on the other path. A major issue that I see with doing doing both a guitar amp chain and a modeled chain is that the tone you're hearing from your physical amp on stage is going to be different than the modeled tone going to the FOH. You may be thrilled with your on-stage guitar amp tone, but what the is audience hearing may be much different, and it may not be as good as what you're hearing on stage. Is there a reason that you want a guitar amp on stage rather than using a FRFR for monitoring your playing on stage? If you feel that the amplifier tone is better than the modeled amp's tone, then you might as well just plant a microphone in front of the amp and send that to the FOH. If you're happy with the modeled amp's tone, then forget about using a guitar amplifier and use an FRFR on stage instead . its important that your on-stage sound is basically the same thing that is being broadcast to the audience. Personally, I send a mono signal from the Stadium's 1/4" L/Mono jack to a Fender FR-12 behind me (which sounds great). I also feed a bit of guitar into the floor monitor in front of me, so I'm surrounded by my guitar on stage. I don't miss using a guitar amplifier at all. The Stadium's XLR out is routed to the FOH. For bigger shows I'll go stereo out, but usually its just a mono signal to FOH.

I have a corrupt preset on my Stadium which may be caused by the same bug. A couple of months ago I was creating a new preset that was based on an existing preset by using the “Save As” option. Stadium created the new preset under the name I gave it, however the new preset lost all of its blocks, there were just two blank paths. I deleted the newly created preset and I began to start the process over, however after deleting the preset from the USER area, it came back. I deleted it again, checked the list of presets to confirm that it was gone, but then it reappeared after 20-30 seconds. I did this several more times with the same result, so then I started investigating it. I found that I can add blocks to this preset, but when I try to save it, I get an error message,something to the effect of, “error, cannot be saved”. I opened up the windows app and tried to delete it from there and the results are the same. I even went as far as making a complete backup, a factory reset, then restore from the backup, and this “ghost” preset returned. i reported the issue to Support and I was requested to send them the preset. The tech said that the preset file had the header but was otherwise empty, so he requested that I send the entire system backup file. I haven’t heard back yet, but at least I know they’re aware of the issue so hopefully they can get it sorted out. In the meantime, since I’m unable to delete this preset from my unit, I moved it to slot 128D to get it out of the way.

By default, the snapshots will remember the state it they were in when you last left that snapshot. For instance, if you're in Snapshot 1 and a delay block is ON, then you navigate to Snapshot 2 and turn that block OFF, when you return to Snapshot 1, that delay will be ON. There is an option called "Snapshot Bypass" that will change how the block's bypass state reacts as you switch between snapshots. Double-tap the block on the touchscreen to bring up the menu and at the bottom is Snapshot Bypass. When the switch is to the right, the block's bypass state will be recalled as I described in the example above. When the switch is too the left, the bypass state will be ignored by the snapshots, so if you turn the block off, it will remain off until you turn it back on, even as you bounce between snapshots. In most cases I keep the switch to the right so that when I return to a snapshot it is in the same state it was in when I left it, however there are some cases when I will toggle the switch to the left, such as on a Poly Capo block for down-turning. Once I've engaged the down-tuning I normally want it to stay down-turned as I navigate between rhythm and solo snapshots.

I learned about the Command Center on the old Helix. The Command Center is far easier to use in Stadium than it was in the old Helix. On the Helix, the Command Center button assignments were unique to each snapshot within a preset, which meant that if you wanted to assign 8 snapshots to stomp buttons, you would need to program the 8 assignments within each of the 8 snapshots, or 64 separate button assignments. It was a total pain in the butt. In Stadium, when you make a Command Center button assignment, it works in each of the snapshots, so its very easy and intuitive to use. I read somewhere that its still possible to program Stadium to have unique button assignments within each snapshot, but I don't know how to do it (and I don't want to know how to do it LOL). In all of my presets, I like to have the buttons I use most often along the bottom row for easy access. This means having a mix of Stomps and Snapshots within the same row, which is an easy setup on the Stadium.

It’s very easy to do. I use a combination of stomps and snapshots on all of my presets, so I keep the unit in combo mode with both the top and bottom rows being stomps. When I want one of the buttons to be a snapshot, I do the following: Select the menu in the upper left of the touch screen (three horizontal lines). Select the Command Center icon. Select the button you wish to program from the screen, then select Preset/Snap from the lower left. Select "Command" and then turn the knob to the far right to "Snapshot". Now turn the Snapshot knob to the desired snapshot number and that's it, the button is now programed to go to the specified snapshot. If you would like to change the name and color of the button, select the camera icon in the upper right of the screen, choose the snapshot you wish to rename, then select "Rename/color" from the screen. PS: You might want to edit the title of this thread LOL

There currently is not an option to change this, although it would be possible for L6 do do this in a software revision. Somebody else asked the same question a while back and there was a reply that it cannot be done because the tap tempo button has red LEDs not multi-colored like the other buttons, however this is not true because I just noticed the other day that the LEDs change colors when the unit is playing a Showcase song, so it absolutely would be possible. I suggest submitting an enhancement request. I'm a bit OCD and I find the bright blinking tap tempo button to be distracting so I made a snap-on plastic cap with perforated holes to tone down the brightness a bit.

I have a basic block model that I created when I designed a protector for the touchscreen on my Stadium XL. I didn't model the knobs, buttons, and switches because I didn't need those for what I was doing, but I can add them. It will be a few days before I have a chance to do so.

I’d like to know how to do that as well. Every once I accidentally add an unintentional assignment to a switch which then displays “Multiple” in the scribble strip. I typically just clear the assignments for that switch to get rid of the unwanted assignment and then reassign the desired assignment. It would be nice if I could see a list of the assignments for a switch and then delete any that are unwanted. Maybe that’s already possible now and I just don’t know how to do it?

Eric commented something to the effect of the ferric coil is not needed now, but may be needed later as add-on accessories become available. I use an alternate cable because the stock cable is too stiff.