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Everything posted by MGW-Alberta

  1. That doesn't sound right. If you power down the unit and reboot the "E" should no longer be displayed.
  2. Change your block from Amp (Fawn30) to Amp+Cab (Fawn 30) Helix combo amp models are divided into 3 main groups. There's Amp+Cab (the whole combo) There's Amp (like if it was a head unit, pre-amp + power amp but no cabinet) And then there's Pre-Amp (no power section, no speaker cabinet) Once you've made that change you can play with mic selection and placements. You should also understand that an AC-30 is already a bright sounding amp. You might still find it a bit on the thin sounding side depending on what you're used to or expecting.
  3. In that case I strongly suspect it has nothing to do with Stomp but has to do with the amp.
  4. I hear a lot more compression in the Headrush sample than in the Helix sample. I don't know if the Headrush patch is set up with more compression or if the unit just naturally compresses more but it definitely sounds more compressed to me. The Headrush sample is also the quietest and has the least amount of overdrive/dirt in my perception. Additionally, the EQ in the Headrush sample is also the darkest in my opinion. I think I might hear this "chattering" you speak of but if what you're talking about is the same thing as what I'm hearing then I would call it the "hair" of the dirt and yes, I agree it is different. I think your Helix sample is dirtier, louder, brighter and has way less compression than either of the other two and that's probably a big part of why the tone has different sounding hair. As for the Peavey sounding the best of the three (my opinion) .... Well that's most likely because it's a real amplifier. That's what modellers strive to achieve.
  5. Just to confirm, does this happen on ALL of your presets? Or just some of them? Please check the settings on your input and output and report them here. Please also check it with another amplifier if one is available. If not, maybe you have a friend whose amp you can try it on? If it still happens on another amp and nothing is amiss in your presets or input and output settings, you may have to open a support ticket.
  6. Have you tried playing the guitar while it is hissing and compared the volume to when it is bypassed?
  7. This problem doesn't sound made up to me at all. It doesn't sound like "it's just in your head". When I got my Helix it was loaded with 2.2 and it worked fine. When I updated to 2.6 it developed a problem that unfortunately, I didn't discover right away, probably because I had created a bunch of presets that I was happy with and wasn't tweaking very often anymore. The problem went like this: if I hit the "amp" button (next to Home) the unit would freeze up. It would still process the guitar sound (at whatever preset/setting it was at before freezing) but it would not accept any physical input. The knobs didn't work, the buttons didn't work, the foot switches didn't work, nothing. I would have to power it down and reboot to get it to respond again. Then, if I hit the amp button it would freeze up again and I would have to reboot again. I joined this forum and vented my frustration and I was met with a dismissive attitude from the members here. I was told it was either a hardware problem or it was all in my head. I tried factory resets many times. I tried reinstalling firmware many times. There were other things I tried too but I can't recall right now, many of which were suggest by forum members. None of those things made any difference. Eventually I started a support ticket and L6 told me they needed it shipped to them for diagnosis and repair. The repairs and shipping would be at my cost because I was past the warranty period when I created the ticket. The unit worked fine unless I pressed the amp button so I just stopped using the amp button and saved myself some money. Each time I updated firmware after that I would check the amp button problem to see if they fixed it because the members here had not been successful in convincing me it was hardware and I became disliked on this forum by several members due to my continued complaining about it. After some time I updated to 2.82 .... problem still there. Later updated to 2.92 .... problem still there. Now I was doubting myself. Maybe I'd have to eat crow and admit it was a hardware thing. Updated to 3.0 and .... voila! No more problem! Then 3.1 and still no problem. Now 3.5 and still no problem. So you tell me. Was it a hardware problem that somehow fixed itself? Does Helix employ Borg Nano-technology? I certainly never opened it up and sprayed De-Oxit on the button or any other attempt at a self-diagnosis because I had learned to live with it and I didn't want to risk making anything worse. All I'm saying is, try not to be dismissive. I never did learn exactly what the problem was. All I can tell you is that it appeared after an update and it disappeared several updates later so nobody is ever going to convince me I had a hardware problem.
  8. The video you posted shows a very different approach to 4CM than I have ever tried but I do understand why he did it that way. However, there is an additional change he could have made to his preset to make it work better, IMO. He has the preamp block on path 1b and his time based blocks after the preamp on path 2. That means his time based blocks are actually after the preamp in the signal flow chain which makes no sense to me. The whole idea behind 4CM is to bypass the preamp part of the amp and run time based blocks through the amp's loop. I would have left the EQ block on path 1b but moved the preamp block to path 2. Then just before (left of) the preamp block I would have placed a split to path 2b and placed the time based blocks on 2b. Then I would rejoin the split after the preamp block so the preamp is between the two split blocks. That would make the time based blocks go around and bypass the preamp block and then path 2 would behave closer to like if it had its own 4CM.
  9. I think it would be pretty easy to set up path 1 to run into your amp using your 4CM cables and then create another string on path 2 and set the output to XLR. You would want to change path 2 input from X to Guitar. Then both paths would see the same dry guitar signal at input and you could put whatever blocks you like on each path without either path affecting what's going on in the other.
  10. Could you please elaborate on these issues? You mentioned something about a protection circuit but no specifics. Do they leak and corrode guitar internals? Do they get hot? Do they have too much power and overheat the guitar circuitry? What is the physical reality of your objection? I need a battery and I see them on Amazon. What are the details of why I shouldn't pull the trigger and get some use out of my JTV? I don't like the idea of having a guitar I can't use and being at the mercy of some unjustifiable "supply chain issue" that should no longer exist since the pandemic was reduced to endemic many months ago. If it's merely a matter of being "authorized" that does not confront me in the slightest. I have aftermarket pickups in guitars that are not authorized by the manufacturer and they work better than stock. I have an unauthorized aftermarket neck on one of my Strats and it works better than stock. Please give us an itemized list, in detail, of what these issues are. Thank you for your time.
  11. I believe if you wanted, say, 4 different curves, you could create them in HX-Edit and then save them to your favourites and then just copy them in wherever you see fit, could you not?
  12. So maybe it's not technically a tremolo but couldn't a tremolo work if it was set to square wave? I'm sure you could adjust it such that it sounds "close enough". If you press and hold the "speed" control you can even assign that parameter to the expression pedal so you could have control over the speed of the pulses. I dunno ... it's gotta be worth a try anyway.
  13. I've never had a ground loop issue with 4CM but I do applaud your use of an amplifier with Helix. Having extensively tried my Helix with stage monitors, my HS8s, my P/A through house mains, a Headrush FRFR cab and Line6 Powercab Plus I feel that using a real amp in 4CM is the best way to go. Everything else gave me a feeling like I'd plugged into a home stereo system. Don't misunderstand me. I get fabulous tone from my Helix and I'm not sure how I ever lived without it but I don't kid myself that it is a replacement for an amplifier and that all I need is something to make it louder. Real amp 4CM Learning how to make that system work Rawks like nothing else Have fun and enjoy!!
  14. I don't use Pro Tools but I think what you are referring to is called a macro and I think Pro Tools has macro capability. Perhaps you've never heard that expression macro before or maybe just not in that context. I suggest you first learn what software macros are and then search your Pro Tools manual or user guide or whatever and learn how to do them.
  15. Nope. Only thing I noticed is that it seems to be a little jumpier but I think that may have happened in 3.1.
  16. I absolutely did try removing the cab block (and IRs) and I tried it with the PC+ in FRFR mode. I do believe I did say I spent 10 or 12 hours at it and tried everything under the sun. I very seriously doubt you'll be able to think of something I didn't think of and have already tried. As far as my amp colouring the tone I think you misunderstood. I said I was able to get a passable tone. The tone is not the problem. The dynamics are the problem. Feel, response, behaviour. That's not tone. That's a different thing. Tone has nothing to do with feel and feel is what "amp in the room" is all about.
  17. I have tried two kinds of powered cabs for Helix. The first one I tried was a 10" Headrush. That one was taken back immediately. I have no idea what people see (hear) in them. It was awful. Recently I bought two Powercab 112 Pluses with the intention of running a stereo rig because that route was way cheaper in the long run than buying a second amplifier. I spent about 10 or 12 hours with just one, trying to get a good clean tone and was very disappointed. I tweaked my clean preset almost into oblivion (without saving of course and also reloading a number of times) and was unable to get the "amp in the room" feel that everybody says they can provide. I tried FRFR mode as well as the speaker sims. It just didn't have the same dynamic of a real amplifier. The "tone" was good enough I suppose but the feel of it and the way it behaved was lacking. I also tried it with a high gain tone and it was less obvious that it wasn't a real amp but still wasn't great. I never did hook the two of them up. I felt if i couldn't get one to sound good to my ear then it would just be a waste of time. They both went back to the store yesterday within the 15 day no questions asked return policy. I've gone back to running Helix through my guitar amp using 4CM. In my opinion there is no substitute for a real tube amp. I'm back to getting great tone and I've kind of given up on the hope of a stereo rig ... or at least I've put it on a shelf for a while. My amp is a Mark V Thirty-Five 112 combo with a C90 Black Shadow and it sits atop a 112 Theile cab, also with a Black Shadow. I think it is an underrated speaker.
  18. Reminds me of my response when I hear someone quote that old saying, "there are no stupid questions." I respond with, "yes but there are a lot of inquisitive idiots."
  19. I forgot to mention one more thing. I bought this short power cord that plugs into the amp and leaves another place to plug in the Helix. You'll notice the power cord to Helix is bundled into the snake. Now I only need one simple extension cord and one A/C outlet at the gig and all my cabling is neat and tidy and doesn't present me with any addition trip hazards or any additional clutter on stage.
  20. I simply add a 10 band EQ at the front of the chain right after the input block before anything else and then I assign it to a foot-switch (in snap/stomp mode) and the scribble strip says "Tele EQ". My primary guitar has humbuckers. When I switch to the Tele I just stomp the button to activate the block and it adds some volume and adjusts for any EQ differences I might want. Then my presets receive a guitar signal at the beginning that is similar in strength and I don't have to twiddle with my snapshots or create new snapshots just for the Tele. I can tailor the EQ to my taste. If I want to keep the brightness of the Tele I can. If I want to tame the high end I can. On some of my presets I leave it sounding like a Tele and on others I cut some of the highs. Easy peasy. No bending over to unplug from one jack to plug into another jack. Just plug in the new guitar, stomp the switch and play.
  21. You can if you make it idiot proof like I did. Fast, no guessing, never a wrong connection. Some custom length cabling. Some coloured heat-shrink. Some coloured nuts. Took me about 2-1/2 hours to fabricate once I got all the stuff needed to make the snake.
  22. Thank you so much for your time and effort and for sharing your work with us. Unfortunately, much of the functionality of the spreadsheet is unavailable in Numbers but the PDF is still very useful. Could you elaborate for me please? What is LMS and Imp?
  23. I believe those could possibly be FrankenTone Mod AlNiCo pickups. Difficult to find in the real world and obviously not available in Workbench. If you were looking for actual pickups that sound close I would suggest the TV Jones T-90 but since that is not the case then I suggest trying the Gretsch Duo-Jet model. With a clean tone like this one you probably won't hear the difference between humbucker and single coil in terms of the doubling thing that fattens up humbucker tones but you will get the warmer tone that comes from a humbucker. You will, of course, want to use a Fender Blackface amp, probably a Deluxe (the non-reverb version if possible). That should get you in the ballpark. On the amp issue, do not be fooled. Just because an amp says Fender on it does not mean you'll get "traditional Fender" cleans out of it. When guitarists say Fender clean they mean Blackface clean. A Hot-Rod Deluxe is not a substitute for a Blackface Deluxe. There are other brands of amp that can get you there but they cost more. To get even closer, try using the Xotic Effects EP-Booster between the guitar and amp. That pedal does an amazing job of adding girth and grunt and breath to any guitar tone. On my (conventional) pedal board I use it to compensate when I switch between single coil guitars and humbucker guitars. The EP-Booster adds thickness, depth and increased output to a single coil guitar so I don't have to bend over and tweak my board every time I change guitars. It should give you the added low end response heard in the video. Hope this helps.
  24. I typically place a 10-Band EQ block last, just before the output block. This allows me to compensate for volume on a per snapshot basis without having to adjust amp blocks that might change the tone but it also allows me to compensate for distortion blocks being activated or deactivated per snapshot. Some distortion blocks seriously alter the EQ of the signal. Sometimes I like the particular kind of "hair" a given distortion block provides but not so much the EQ it imposes. I like having the ability to correct for such things before final output.
  25. The main difference (in tone) between the dual and the triple is that the triple has a tighter sound. I have not tried this myself but I'm thinking it might be possible to tighten up the dual block by making it stiffer; ie: reducing sag, ripple, hum, etc. Perhaps you should give that a try and see if it doesn't get you closer.
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