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MGW-Alberta

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MGW-Alberta last won the day on May 14

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  1. FRFR cabs are not really true FRFR. They're all a little different. That's why there are comparison articles and videos about choosing the right FRFR. It comes as no surprise to me that a different cab will sound different with the same patch.
  2. There's no problem running an IR into a cab. I do it myself sometimes to get certain sounds. Make sure your input on the stomp is matched to the output of the fx send.
  3. I do exactly as Dragon. I back each preset up manually using the export function in HX-Edit.
  4. I used this product to lubricate my treadle. It took a few applications before it stopped squeaking from being too tight. It is safe to use on the rubber inside the pivot mechanism. https://www.amazon.com/3-ONE-10041-Professional-Lubricant/dp/B000BBYCUC
  5. MGW-Alberta

    A/D question

    Uh huh ... Right
  6. MGW-Alberta

    A/D question

    You guys are missing my point. Yes, I understand everything you're saying and I get your points exactly. All I said was the video did not address the fundamental frequencies of guitars. I did not say digital is crap. I did not imply digital is crap. I did not even hint vaguely that digital is crap. I own a Helix myself and I love it. All I did was point out that the frequencies the guy demonstrated were not within the fundamentals of a guitar. I made no assertions beyond that fact. Try not to be so obviously desperate to start a debate over it. Contrary to popular belief, it is actually possible to make an observation without an evil agenda.
  7. I use Snap/Stomp mode. My bottom row is 4 snapshots per preset. Top row is 4 extra Stomps (or combination of Stomps) I can toggle on and off. I've never needed more than that for any one song.
  8. Contact Line 6 and create a support ticket. https://line6.com/support/tickets/add.html
  9. MGW-Alberta

    A/D question

    As I said in my post, he left us out of his demonstration and that it is unfortunate because we need to know about those frequencies more than any others. He did in fact leave something out; everything below 1 KHz. I too would like to know about frequencies from 80 Hz to 1 KHz or for that matter, as low as 40 Hz, which is the low open E on a 4 string bass tuned to standard pitch.
  10. MGW-Alberta

    A/D question

    It's definitely an interesting video ... but .... he refers to 1 KHz as being midrange when in actuality it is the beginning of the highs on a guitar. That may not make sense to you if you don't understand how logarithms work but it is still true nevertheless. 1 KHz is roughly a 1st string at the 20th or 21st fret. An open 6th string (E) is roughly 80 Hz. Then he keeps jumping up the frequencies higher and higher and for some reason implying things should get worse as they get higher when in fact they naturally get better, not worse due to the time interval being so minuscule as to be unnoticeable to the human ear. It's the lower frequencies where the stair steps should be most noticeable but he skips those frequencies altogether and that is unfortunate because those are the frequencies we need to know about. In reality, he's addressing the harmonics of a typical guitar and those get better as they get higher despite his alluding to the contrary. The fundamentals on a guitar are at or below 1 KHz. Open E (6th) - 82.4 Hz Open A (5th) - 110.0 Hz Open D (4th) - 146.8 Hz Open G (3rd) - 196.0 Hz Open B (2nd) - 246.9 Hz Open E (1st) - 329.3 Hz 20th fret, E (1st) - 987.8 Hz - still ever so slightly below 1KHz. His conclusions are interesting but he did not apply them to the fundamentals of a guitar. I'm no mad scientist but I do know the difference between fundamentals and harmonics. Also, the reality is ... if you've been playing in a rock band for a number of years you very likely have permanent hearing loss and you are probably legally deaf at frequencies over 10 or 12 KHz so 20 KHz really has little to no meaning for a working guitarist.
  11. I always keep my volume knob at noon, half way. It sounds perfectly fine that way and noon is much easier to judge at a glance than wide open all the way up, which is an angle. You look at it and it looks okay but in truth, it could be all the way up but it could also be a little ways down and your wouldn't be able to tell at a glance without actually bending over and touching it. Noon you can plainly see in an instant. There are zero problems with signal to noise ratio. I don't want to be wondering if I need to make adjustments to a preset because the volume seems wrong. I want to be able to look down and immediately know.
  12. If busking with a Helix seems reasonable to you then I guess you could probably give Pete Cornish a call. I'm sure he could rehouse it in something really solid and set you up with a unit that has serious "pedestrians-stepping-on-my-gear" bullet proof reliability and a self contained power supply.
  13. Saving the preset is how you save changes to a snapshot.
  14. I make changes on Helix. Navigate to the snapshot you want to edit. Make the changes you want for that snapshot, using bypass to turn blocks on or off and the push-down-to-adjust method for blocks that will remain on but at a different setting. Navigate back to whichever snapshot you want active when you navigate to that preset. Save the preset.
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