leftyz

That worked! Thank you!

Sooo...I've put together a smaller pedal board for acoustic gigs where I don't need to haul an amp and my regular Helix, etc. and just run direct. I have an H9 and a couple of OD pedalsI like as well as a RC-5 looper, etc. My question is: Do I need to use a TRS 1/4" to 2 TS 1/4" jacks so that I can run the overdrive pedals before any amp/cab model and the H9 after the amp/cab model. Or am I expecting too much routing capability from the Stomp? Any way to do this? I know I'm limited to 8 blocks...

Same here. Been playing for 40 years but never owned a Variax and it's a different animal. Just wanted to make sure I was looking in the right place!

Thanks! That’s what I thought but man, it’s a really thin space to get something under to tighten. I know Stew Mac has a spanner tool that might fit...

I have a SR 270 and the volume pot has come loose. How do I tighten it? The knob doesn’t seem like it’s supposed to pop off and when I take off the back panel I can’t see whether or not the nut to tighten it is on the inside or outside of the body.

Tried bumping up the preset volume in Workbench - it helped a little and I also use the wrap behind the nut. I suspect it may have a little to do with tuning down 1/2 step (which Stevic actually suggested I do because the bands I play in do that) so there’s a little less pressure on the saddles? That and I HAD to lower the action just a little. The tension on those strings on a 27” scale was a bit much. The only two suggestions from the article on “plink” that I haven’t tried is spraying cleaner under the saddles (wouldn’t think I’d need to do that on a brand new guitar) or replacing the piezo saddle. Don’t trust myself to do that. Also it might be my imagination but the Shuriken seems to sound better when plugged into the Variax port on the Helix than it does when using a regular 1/4” cable. Not using a cheap cable either - 1/4” Zaolla. I’m going to raise the saddles a bit on the E and B strings and see what that does...

I’ve been using NYXL 10-52s on the Shuriken (was having problems with the piezo “plink”) Also I tried playing around with pickup position in Workbench and it seems like no matter what I set up it sounds bright and kind of thin. The Semi hollow body tones are unusable to me. Really thin and tinny. Is it the strings I’m using? I know NYXL’s can be a little bright...anybody else hearing this?

Will do! Replacement should be here soon...was able to get the SR 270 with the ebony fretboard! (For a slight up-charge...):-)

Yes they do! Got it sorted out with them and send it back for an exchange...and thanks for passing on the info about the reset. I must admit the current manual was a bit confusing but yes, if you changed things then a revised version would be good! Thank you!

Well, I hate to say this but i think I got a bad one electronics-wise. None of the on board controls do what they are supposed to do in regard to alternate tunings. I've tried dozens of times to follow the videos and the manual to the letter and I just can't make it work. I have yet to have it let me program any alt tunings without Workbench. I even tried flashing the firmware in case there was a glitch somewhere. Didn't work. Tried what the manual said for resetting JUST the alt tunings. Held the model knob in while plugging in the guitar cable -pickup selector in the middle position. It didn't flash red 3 times. It won't even let me change the tuning in Workbench...sooo, I'll be calling my Sweetwater rep in the morning...sucks, I really like the instrument! Hopefully they do something since I just got it...I'd like one that works THAT'S for sure!

I called Line 6 support and they told me just to use Workbench to do it...more reliable and easier than doing it on the guitar. Now if only I could get rid of the piezo “plink” on the A string. Trying the fret wrap today... The thing I don’t get is the sequence of doing custom tunings. Do you set the alt tuning knob to “model” then go into programming mode, set the tuning, audition and then turn the knob to where you want it to save? That’s where I’m getting confused. The manual also says something about if you want to modify a tuning only then move the Alt Tuning knob back and away?

Ok, I'm stumped. Just got the Shuriken and I cannot figure out how to make a custom tuning, specifically tuning down a 1/2 step. Tried following the directions in the Pilots guide, saw another thread on here that had a link to a video that's no longer there. Tried looking up any videos on YouTube. Found some for the JTV but this seems to be different. I noticed in another section of the manual it says to use the User settings for custom tuning to make sure the low E string is tuned to D and that the Alternate Tuning knob is set to "model". Ok...totally confused...I can't get it to work. The guitar sounds and plays great besides that!

Same here...I also use a DSL40C with a Celestion Creamback and KT77’s. Use 4CM with my Helix - works great! Still thinking at some point about getting a Friedman ASM 12 or Gemini 2. Only reason would be I really can’t use any cab modeling or IR’s with an actual amp...feel like I’m kind of limiting with it can do...

That's what I've heard...and nice rig btw. I actually have 2 EON 612's that I use for monitors in my PA...hmmmm...

I'll try that as well...and @Music Law - did not know you could do that! I'll play around with that too. That's the thing with Helix - soooo many options (and so little time,lol). There are tons of downloadable presets to play with for going through FRFR with Helix but not so much for 4CM that I've been able to find...not many examples to go from. That's why I also asked about the difference between separate send/return blocks and a single FX loop before the amp model. Having all the options available leaves me free to really screw up my tone! :-) Maybe one of these days I'll do the FRFR option but that will be a while...

That's what I was thinking...I run those in a serial path after the return block from the amp and even with the mix on reverbs and delays down it still sounds a little harsh...

Ok...I feel like I'm just not "getting it" as far as effects blocks and paths. I run 4CM through my modded Marshall DSL40C. Is there a big difference between just using a single FX block before the amp/preamp and using separate send and return blocks before and after the amp/preamp? Also - serial vs parallel paths - I know there's no "rules" per se on where to put effects but what do most people use parallel paths for?

Good points all about it being a cab...I guess I got so used to using it as an effect I sort of forgot those are actual enclosures...DUH. :-) I will try running it with some parametric eq and see what happens. Thanks all. I'm still getting a feel for what effects go where in this thing.

I run my Helix using the 4CM into my (modded) Marshall DSL40C. I've tried moving the different rotary models all over the path -in front of and after the amp loop. No matter where though it always takes off a bunch of top end and muffles my tone. I've tried running in tandem with an eq and push the high freq up significantly. I've used a Boss RT-20 and an Eventide H9 and not had that problem with either of those. Any tricks to make it sound more transparent?