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Everything posted by KozMcCharlie

  1. Mine decided to quit completely (half of the ring on the mode switch as well...) I'd recommend a support ticket as well. I managed to get it working by gently pressing the solder joints with a chopstick, but it really needs to have the solder heated and there's no way I'm going to try that. They're small and I imagine those tiny LEDs are very sensitive to overheating. My precision soldering skills aren't bad, but this is just not a job for anyone but a true pro.
  2. I'd do it this way... Move the amp/cab block to a parallel path after the FX using a Y split, then go to the mixer block, press action and move the mixer block onto the parallel path and then set it's output to whatever you want to use. The split and mixer blocks don't take up one of your 6 blocks. Just scroll to the point where the two paths diverge/meet and you can select... Hope that helps... if not ask and I can get more specific.
  3. Just wanted to update in case someone searches for this in the future... Had some time to undo all the screws and take out the board today. While nothing looked to be broken, I did end up getting half of the Tap Tempo LED and the missing color on half of switch 11 working while probing with a sharp chopstick. I didn't really want to risk trying to heat those tiny solder points, and they really are head of a pin tiny, so I left it at that and reassembled. Tapped the switch with more force that I ever would in the real world for about 10 minutes and everything remained working, so, while not fully restored, I'm happy with the result of a visual tempo indicator...
  4. Thinking about it some more I think you're right. I've seen some aggressive tap tempoing(?) and given that the other problem LED is right next door it could be a bad solder joint due to excessive, jackhammer-like vibration in the region. I'll try opening it up and seeing what's going on in there.
  5. I also posted this over on TGP, but on the off chance that someone who is here and not there knows... Has anyone found a way to either replace or repair the LED for Tap Tempo or any of the other LEDs on the switches? My very out of warranty Floor (also purchased used, so...) decided to quit flashing, and switch 11 has one color (green I think) that is intermittent. Couldn't find any useful parts on Full Compass, though sometimes they're buried. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
  6. I am a bass player who uses the Helix Floor exclusively now and find that it takes all pedals in front really well. I don't use anything other than the Helix anymore and I find that the Obsidian model really nails the B7K.
  7. There are actually some great guitar amps on Helix for bass as well. I've been using both the Twin Reverb and the Hiwatt models recently trying to decide which I like better. The thing we could really use is more cabs and/or IRs that aren't based on a Fridge. As for distortions, you are absolutely right. Then again, the Darkglass model does a wide variety of great things. Fuzz is a whole other story...
  8. That was a Fender Rhodes through a Fender Twin Reverb Vib channel, so use the Blackface Double Vib amp with an Opto Tremolo after it and a '63 Spring reverb at the end and adjust to taste. That's really all there is to that tone...
  9. Seems like a waste of my energy to bother with this "update"
  10. Active pickups (EMGs most likely) with stainless steel rounds through a DI and then compressed and rolled off around 60hz and boosted with a high shelf in the 900 - 1kHz area. You don't really need an amp or any other effects, but you will need to practice an aggressive slap technique. Most of what you hear there is courtesy of slapping the hell out of the bass... Another possibility is a super aggressive pick player, but I would think that the force needed to get that sort of sound would be hard to control.
  11. The thing that could REALLY use an update is the effects. Most of them anyway. Some of them are just blatently unusable due to poor modeling.
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