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Beacher

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Everything posted by Beacher

  1. It is literally like NO ONE on the design team thought to try it outside before production? It is completely unreadable. The FBV2 with it's yellow display and red lights for switch activation is significantly better outside (meaning it is usable) than the FVB3. We play in a bit of shade outside so I can mostly make out the details on the FBV3 but in direct sunlight you wouldn't be able to discern anything. You wouldn't even be able to tell if it is on? I would invite any of the readers of this post who have an FBV3 to take it outside on a bright day and see what we are talking about.
  2. Spider V 60 Trying to get a nice clean octave down or up ... seems the only way to do it is with the synth harmony or dbl bass efx (unless I am missing something?) .... both sound like a giant bee when engaged. There's nothing clean about anything in this department? So I am wondering if I am missing something? On the Spider IV there was a very nice clean octave generator .... can't find it on the V.
  3. Stewart ... for example ... if you have the volume pedal before the preamp, and are using grunge (especially heavy grunge) when you back down the volume pedal you are dropping the feed into the preamp (aka amp block) and the grunge density will then clean up to some degree. This can be desired in some cases, lower volume less grunge higher volume more grunge etc ... but placing the volume pedal after the amp, alows me to make it louder or softer as need be, and not loose the grunge density. I prefer that. In a way, when placed after the amp block, it kind of simulates having foot control over the master level. Not exactly the same, but similar. However, all that being said, everybody's workflow through these amps can be slightly different, so you have to experiment to find what works best for yourself. I made a few banks of my 4 amp settings to try different amp models etc.I love the JS CLEAN #27A for clean tones. Best for me in the amp. I have them on A & B with different delay variants, chorus, tremolo, etc. I did change the EQ settings in the preamp from stock but not much. My only beef with this amp is that FS5 is locked to Reverb only. Since I don't use reverb, it is a dead switch for me. I have no idea why they did this? I think all the efx switches 1-5 should be open to use whatever efx you want in whatever position you want just like a pedal board. I could combine A & B to one preset if I had use of FS5 for somethng other than reverb. Not a deal breaker, just a frustration in my camp.
  4. Regarding the Spider 5's ... as I understand it, there are 3 "volume" controls ... the foot pedal, the amp block "Volume", and the "Master Volume". The words "channel volume" come from the Spider IV's but it is not a term used on the Spider V's. (if I understand it correctly). The foot pedal can be placed before or after the amp block. I am thinking (maybe I am wrong) that the amp block per sé, can be considered a "pre amp" in traditional amp nomenclature? I agree with MrVander than the "Master Volume" of the amp simply regulates the overall volume of everything thing that comes before it? Therefore it cannot be edited per preset. This makes sense to me. The pre-amp (or amp block) volume can be editied and preset to adjust various preset volumes relative to each other. It's "job" basically (at least that's how I use it). The Volume pedal is tricky, if it is before the amp block, then it will affect how much input will hit the preamp so .... it will affect tone .... if after the amp block less effect on tone but it is still before both efx blocks 3/4. If not using a volume pedal then this is all moot. The way I use my Spider V (with the FBV3) is to always put the pedal volume after the amp block, level the presets for taste against each other with the amp block volume, then set the amp master to taste for the gig or rehearsal. My set up is very simple. I can do everything I need with 4 presets (A-B-C-D), couple cleans and couple crunches. It has taken a while to get it where I like it but I am basically there now. I have had many Spiders and I really like this V way more an any of the previous Spiders, but that MkII 212 Valve was really sweet, and it had some things going on that the V doesn't match IMHO. I regret letting it go sometimes, but it was literally killing my back .... lol.
  5. I play a summer gig outside .... unlike the FBV2 with it's yellow display, the FVB3 is virtually impossible to read in any kind of bright daylight or worst case, sunlight. Absolutely horrible. Nobody in the design phase could have checked this out??? I might have to go back down to the FVB2 for this gig, alhough I am trying to figure out some kind of a "hood" I can make to provide shade over the display and switches. It is even difficult to tell the difference between engaged and non engaged switches? Even here, the FBV2 is better with it's red switch lights. Has anyone else experienced this frustration with the FBV3 when used outside ????
  6. Works fine for me but it is not an M1 chip so can't speak to that. Details below. 2015 MBP i7 Big Sur 11.4 Spider Remote 2.01
  7. Answering my own question ... I just traded some gear I wasn't using to get an FBV3 controller. It's very nice. Definitley like it better than the FBV2 (short board). Also, the Cat 7 cable (the subject of my post) works perfectly with the FBV3 but not the FBV2. The FBV2 (in to a Spider V) does work perfectly with a Cat 5 cable. I like the feel of the switches on the FBV3 much better and also the display is nicer (prefer the blue on the 3 over the yellow on the 2) and brighter. The only thing to get used to as a differential is the fact that on the FBV3 the foot switch lights are on all the time, they just get brighter when engaged whereas on the FBV2 the lights only come on when the specific effect is engaged. I do like the color coding of the FBV3 lights to the specific effects. I also like the volume pedal on the 3 better. IMHO if you have a Spider anything, and you are gigging on any level, you need a floorboard controller for navigation. Maybe I am not allowed to dish this product on this forum but I feel it is overpriced, however that being said, since it is essential (IMHO) I got it anyways and I live with the cost of doing business. My synopsis in a nutshell.
  8. Ha ha .... you know the old saying ... "3 times lucky". It's just the way it is with technology sometimes. Glad you found a solution.
  9. Not normal for sure. I would try one "Factory Reset" first, and if that doesn't fix it either return for replacement or service.
  10. Is there documentation somewhere that details ALL the specific setting parameters for each preset/patch on the Spider V MKII. This includes the amp and every effect whether it is used or not on the default patch settings. I ask, as sometimes for example, I might like a specific Delay and it’s settings on Preset A and want to transfer just that Delay/settings to Preset B. Have not been able to find a way to copy/paste specific efx and their settings from one preset to another. So what I am doing, is writing down the Delay (in this example) and it’s parameter settings, then changing to that same delay in Preset B and manually dialing the settings from Preset A in. Then of course saving Preset B to secure the changes. A very long winded (and quite silly) way of doing things for sure. Is there another easier way to do this? Second ... in the event that you make changes and overwrite a stock preset, then want to get that one preset back with it's original settings .... how do you do it? I definitely don't want to factory reset the entire amp to get one overwritten preset back. Are all the stock presets in the Spider V "cloud" and with the Spider editor you search for that one by name then bring it back in that way ????
  11. I bought a Cat 7 outdoor cable for my FBV Shortboard MKII foot pedal to my Spider V 60. I was using a Cat 5 cable (no problems) but the retaining clip broke so it was always coming out of the socket. When I pliugged the Cat 7 cable in all I get on the pedal is a the screen display saying FBV 5B MKII. No foot switch lights and no function (won't display the presets etc.). Plug the Cat 5 back on and eveything works. So something doesn't seem to like the Cat 7 cable even though the specs say it is backward compatible? Has anyone experienced this or have a fix? I am thinking I have to return the Cat 7 and just get a Cat 5?
  12. Is there a way to save a specific EFX setting? For example, I have editied a delay to taste and I want to copy and paste it in to a few patches (Presets) I've made, without having to configure the delay on each patch separately? I couldn't seem to find how to do this or even if it is possible?
  13. It was sent in for warranty repair and returned to the store. When I went to pick it up, I plugged in to check and it was still buzzing exactly as it was when it was brought in. Whatever they did at repair nobody checked it and neither did the store when it came back ... duh ! So ..... back for repair it went again. Lucky I have a loaner.
  14. Update .... the amp is now in for warranty repair
  15. kblackley ...... thanks very much for checking. The "loaner V60" I have here doesn't buzz either ...... BUT, the store I left it with (Line 6 dealer) called me and said "we don't hear any buzz" ..... lol ... so I have to go back and check it again but at least I will have both V60's to compare (which I did when I took my amp in and showed the sales person on the floor at the time). Mine is "noticeably buzzing" triggered by the Ab. I didn't take the back off to investigate as it is still under warranty and I don't want to let them weasel out on me with the old "you opened it you voided the warranty" dodge.
  16. I have a Spider V60 MKII. Would any of you out there with this model do a quick test for me please. 1) Use Clean 01A Basic 2) Volume about 11-12 o'clock 3) Guitar up full (preferably neck pickup) play an Ab on 6th string 4th fret 4) Tell me if you have any buzz?? This is a "sympathetic resonance" triggered specifically by that note? I definitely get this on mine and it is back at the dealer for warranty repair. I also have a SV60 MKII loaner. New amp. It is nowhere near as much but this is a "slight" buzz triggered by that Ab note on it as well, so I am wondering if any of you out there are getting this??. What I can tell you with mine ... 1) It can be triggered by 3 different guitars I have ... same note each time. Compared to an F on the 6th string (first fret) there is a definite and noticeable buzz triggered by the Ab and not the F. 2) It does NOT happen with headphones. 3) Changing between classic and full range speaker makes no difference (eliminating possible tweeter fatigue/damage) 4) Re-Setting everything to factory does not fix this. 4) Really points a finger at either something in the cabinet or speaker cone resonance imho. Thanks in advance.
  17. I agree with Colek98. Although I don't mind the internal Spider V tuner at close range, it is hard to see at distance and most often not convenient depending where the amp is, and even harder to decipher on my older FBV MKII pedal board, so I too prefer either a clip on and/or a pedal tuner. Much faster/easier to see. Also to note, I love my polytuners. SO fast and easy to see the entire 6 string picture at a glance. All that being said however, when I was in a music store the other day, noodling on a V120, it was great to have instant and easy access to the internal tuner since every guitar I picked off the wall was out of tune .... lol.
  18. G10T questions. I recently bought just the G10T and am within a window to return it and upgrade to the G10 but have a few questions as to why or why not to buy the G10? 1) Obviously ... the only way to upgrade the G10T firmware is with the G10 Bass Unit? A very bad decision on Line 6 for doing that to us? Might be part of my decision to upgrade to the G10 but not sure if it is really necessary based on a firmware upgrade path only? 2) As I understand it, with the G10 you can then obviously work the G10T with any amp? Am I correct in that? Without the G10 (and only the G10T) you are stuck with only being able to use it with a Spider V amp? Am I correct with that? 3) Assuming that you have the G10, if you don't have the G10 Base Unit on, you can still go directly to the Spider V with the G10T (as I am doing now). Correct? 4) Do charging times improve with the base unit vs using the Spider V amp?
  19. Documentation for products like this is so important but in this case it seems to have taken very back seat? Maybe more to the point, it is back in the trailer behind the vehicle with the rest of the band equipment? ... or ... is just doesn't exist at all?? (which we know to be mostly the case already). I've figured out most of it but I shouldn't have had to figure out anything. That is my point. I know a lot of you out there have commented on this issue in other posts. I think the company designs and makes the product then shovels it into the market place as fast as possible to try and recoup production costs. Operational documentation falls by the wayside as it is complicated and time consuming to produce. I wonder if they bank on the aspect of forum users to free beta test and document as they do here? Kinda feels like is to me. Anyways, it is what it is and we just need to help each other out here as many have done already. I do feel sorry for the poor buyer who may not have a high degree of technical skills to try and wade through all the stuff in these amps. I don't know about most of you, but I feel 90% of the presets in the Spider V's (as I did for the Spider IV's) are more about "examples" of capabilities rather than actual usable performance presets? One poster in another thread said that he just erases all the presets and builds his own. I kind of feel the same. I do like the Spider V though. It is a big bang for the buck as long as you can get your head around how to work it. Off my soap box.
  20. In regards to the Line 6 Spider V Editing Software … It seems strange to me, that in this modern age of technology, where associated documentation is required for understanding technical details and operating procedures, that Line 6 Spider V users are basically required to “figure it out for themselves”. I am still looking for the “documentation” pertaining to the Line 6 Spider V editing software?? It seems that the relevant users of said software have been promoted to “unpaid beta testers” …. or … am I missing something?
  21. Beacher

    Worst amp ever?

    Good thread and great information throughout .... I echo what many have said in response here. I've had a bit of history with these Line 6 Spiders and personally, I feel that with these modelling amps you NEED to learn how to build your own patches to suit your personal taste buds. The tools are in there. It takes a combo of skill, practice, plus trial and error. Not for the faint of heart. It comes with the territory. Like painting a picture, there are lots of outcomes that are possible. I, like others here, have ALWAYS been able to get "something useful" out of these amps. You just have to work at it. I think the key (imho) is if you just plug in, try a few presets and hate everything you're hearing, it doesn't mean there isn't some really good sounds in the amp, it just means you haven't figured out how to get them (or more importantly what you want to hear) yet. You know the old saying "don't blame the tool" although the right tool for the job makes everything a lot easier. I enjoy the challenge of tweaking these amps, it is empowering to make something that I really like with them and I have always managed to do it.. Currently evaluating a Spider V 30 MKII, I like it but will probably get the 60 instead. A bit more appreciated bang for the buck over the 30 imho. The others upstream are too big/heavy for my needs.
  22. Brainbow answered this (I think) but ..... Using the Spider 5 Amp directly .... 1) Hold Home button until settings menu comes up 2) On the screen "Tap Light" is third item in the list ... turn <Hold/Save> rotary 2 clicks to the right (clockwise) to select "Tap Light" 3) Once Tap Light is selected press (push) the Hold/Save rotary to engage the Tap Light Parameter settings 4) Rotate the Hold/Save rotary to toggle Tap Light on or off 5) Hit Home Button to exit ... Tap Light will now be set as per Step 4. The first thing I did when I got this amp was to turn that distracting blinking light OFF !!!!!!
  23. To finish up the discussion thread ...... following Hurghanico's suggestion, I have managed to get a "reasonable" approximation of the RoboTalk using the Tron Up Filter. Can't quite duplicate it "exactly" but close enough for jazz as they say.
  24. Yes ..... after moving the wah to the beginning of the chain things are MUCH better ...... thanks.
  25. Hey Hurghanico, thanks .... I checked out your demo .... very in the ballpark for what I am looking for ... I'll mess around with that mu-tron envelope follower you suggested and see what I can come up with ... !~!
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