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    West Coast Canada
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    Spider 212 MKII, DT 25, 2 DT Cabs, POD HD500, Spider V60
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  1. I found the G10T I thought I had lost (I have 2 ... whew). This is so weird that I can barely find any G10's anywhere for sale? As I mentioned, even the Line 6 Store doesn't have them?? There are some charger/transmitter packages out there.
  2. I cannot for the life of me find either a G10T or G10T2 transmitter for sale. Even the Line 6 store is out ??? I am in Canada. Does anyone know where any availability for these are ??? I did find one source, "Acclaim Music" but they wanted $67 to ship it pushing the price to $207 ???
  3. Not quite understanding where the Master Volume on the POD HD500 is in the signal path to the DT25 when using the Line 6 Link ? The POD MV doesn't seem to control any variable in the Editor (unless I am missing something). I would then ask where the Unity Gain position is for the POD MV ? My understanding is that the DT25's MV is the master to the power amp section. Nothing controls it except your hand. For those using this set up (or the POD500X) what position to you generally like to run the POD master Vol at?? It is nice to be able to reach down and squeeze a bit more volume out of the rig without having to go to the Amp's master volume so ... I tend to run the POD's MV at about 1 o'clock and set the amp MV to taste. Do any of you dime the POD MV and/or do any of you dime the DT25 M.V. and then back things down via the POD? Thanks,
  4. Answering my own topic ... I actually just found everything ... I was putting in the wrong search string. I found the model emulation lists for both amp series.
  5. Trying to find a Spider IV "Amp Model Gallery" to see exactly what real amps the models are trying to emulate. I have seen it before but for the life of me I can"t find it now. Need to find the same info for the Spider V MKII Thanks
  6. Has anyone here tried using the FBV3 outdoors? I play a gig outside all summer and honestly, I can't see the display at all. It is virtually invisible, completely useless. Even the lights on the switches are almost impossible to see off/on. I have had to go back to my FBV Shortboard MKII to be able to see the display outside. I think the solution would be black letters against a yellow background as in the Shortboard. Would be nice if there was an "option" to get that through a firmware upgrade.
  7. It is literally like NO ONE on the design team thought to try it outside before production? It is completely unreadable. The FBV2 with it's yellow display and red lights for switch activation is significantly better outside (meaning it is usable) than the FVB3. We play in a bit of shade outside so I can mostly make out the details on the FBV3 but in direct sunlight you wouldn't be able to discern anything. You wouldn't even be able to tell if it is on? I would invite any of the readers of this post who have an FBV3 to take it outside on a bright day and see what we are talking about.
  8. Spider V 60 Trying to get a nice clean octave down or up ... seems the only way to do it is with the synth harmony or dbl bass efx (unless I am missing something?) .... both sound like a giant bee when engaged. There's nothing clean about anything in this department? So I am wondering if I am missing something? On the Spider IV there was a very nice clean octave generator .... can't find it on the V.
  9. Stewart ... for example ... if you have the volume pedal before the preamp, and are using grunge (especially heavy grunge) when you back down the volume pedal you are dropping the feed into the preamp (aka amp block) and the grunge density will then clean up to some degree. This can be desired in some cases, lower volume less grunge higher volume more grunge etc ... but placing the volume pedal after the amp, alows me to make it louder or softer as need be, and not loose the grunge density. I prefer that. In a way, when placed after the amp block, it kind of simulates having foot control over the master level. Not exactly the same, but similar. However, all that being said, everybody's workflow through these amps can be slightly different, so you have to experiment to find what works best for yourself. I made a few banks of my 4 amp settings to try different amp models etc.I love the JS CLEAN #27A for clean tones. Best for me in the amp. I have them on A & B with different delay variants, chorus, tremolo, etc. I did change the EQ settings in the preamp from stock but not much. My only beef with this amp is that FS5 is locked to Reverb only. Since I don't use reverb, it is a dead switch for me. I have no idea why they did this? I think all the efx switches 1-5 should be open to use whatever efx you want in whatever position you want just like a pedal board. I could combine A & B to one preset if I had use of FS5 for somethng other than reverb. Not a deal breaker, just a frustration in my camp.
  10. Regarding the Spider 5's ... as I understand it, there are 3 "volume" controls ... the foot pedal, the amp block "Volume", and the "Master Volume". The words "channel volume" come from the Spider IV's but it is not a term used on the Spider V's. (if I understand it correctly). The foot pedal can be placed before or after the amp block. I am thinking (maybe I am wrong) that the amp block per sé, can be considered a "pre amp" in traditional amp nomenclature? I agree with MrVander than the "Master Volume" of the amp simply regulates the overall volume of everything thing that comes before it? Therefore it cannot be edited per preset. This makes sense to me. The pre-amp (or amp block) volume can be editied and preset to adjust various preset volumes relative to each other. It's "job" basically (at least that's how I use it). The Volume pedal is tricky, if it is before the amp block, then it will affect how much input will hit the preamp so .... it will affect tone .... if after the amp block less effect on tone but it is still before both efx blocks 3/4. If not using a volume pedal then this is all moot. The way I use my Spider V (with the FBV3) is to always put the pedal volume after the amp block, level the presets for taste against each other with the amp block volume, then set the amp master to taste for the gig or rehearsal. My set up is very simple. I can do everything I need with 4 presets (A-B-C-D), couple cleans and couple crunches. It has taken a while to get it where I like it but I am basically there now. I have had many Spiders and I really like this V way more an any of the previous Spiders, but that MkII 212 Valve was really sweet, and it had some things going on that the V doesn't match IMHO. I regret letting it go sometimes, but it was literally killing my back .... lol.
  11. I play a summer gig outside .... unlike the FBV2 with it's yellow display, the FVB3 is virtually impossible to read in any kind of bright daylight or worst case, sunlight. Absolutely horrible. Nobody in the design phase could have checked this out??? I might have to go back down to the FVB2 for this gig, alhough I am trying to figure out some kind of a "hood" I can make to provide shade over the display and switches. It is even difficult to tell the difference between engaged and non engaged switches? Even here, the FBV2 is better with it's red switch lights. Has anyone else experienced this frustration with the FBV3 when used outside ????
  12. Works fine for me but it is not an M1 chip so can't speak to that. Details below. 2015 MBP i7 Big Sur 11.4 Spider Remote 2.01
  13. Answering my own question ... I just traded some gear I wasn't using to get an FBV3 controller. It's very nice. Definitley like it better than the FBV2 (short board). Also, the Cat 7 cable (the subject of my post) works perfectly with the FBV3 but not the FBV2. The FBV2 (in to a Spider V) does work perfectly with a Cat 5 cable. I like the feel of the switches on the FBV3 much better and also the display is nicer (prefer the blue on the 3 over the yellow on the 2) and brighter. The only thing to get used to as a differential is the fact that on the FBV3 the foot switch lights are on all the time, they just get brighter when engaged whereas on the FBV2 the lights only come on when the specific effect is engaged. I do like the color coding of the FBV3 lights to the specific effects. I also like the volume pedal on the 3 better. IMHO if you have a Spider anything, and you are gigging on any level, you need a floorboard controller for navigation. Maybe I am not allowed to dish this product on this forum but I feel it is overpriced, however that being said, since it is essential (IMHO) I got it anyways and I live with the cost of doing business. My synopsis in a nutshell.
  14. Ha ha .... you know the old saying ... "3 times lucky". It's just the way it is with technology sometimes. Glad you found a solution.
  15. Not normal for sure. I would try one "Factory Reset" first, and if that doesn't fix it either return for replacement or service.
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