nbaird

Indeed, If you have a habit of forking 120V outlets for that pleasurable tingle but then you try it on that identical looking one someone wired to 50kV

I really like being able to use the Variax without batteries and this kit is perfect for that but there is some risk with it. One night I inadvertently plugged the TRS cable for the Variax into my Acoustic/Electric guitar and it fried the electronics. It doesn't have a way to sense if it's plugged into the Variax before it pulses the voltage. If you get this kit be cautious to not plug it into anything but the Variax.

I tested the "bad" 1.2V regulator out of the circuit by connecting the adjust pin to ground and input to 3.3V and it produced ~1.2V on the output so something else was wrong. I think the way I desoldered it (hot air) reflowed other parts of the board and that's what made it work again. It may not be a complete repair but I haven't noticed any operational issues yet... The reference voltages I know of are stable. I don't know what +VL should be. I don't really want to invest too much in older tech so I think I'll just let it fail in the future however long it lasts. It's been a joy working on it though!

I forgot to mention that I also added a heatsink to the 7805CT 5V regulator at U10 because this one was way hotter than the 8V FBV regulator. When I tested I just kept the factory heatsink (the screwed in standoff) and the default bare 5V regulator. I don't know why it didn't shut down this time at all I added back my heatsink on the 5V regulator to hopefully avoid any thermal shutdown issues. Partev, What do you think caused the 1.2V regulator to go bad? Do you think the new one will fail too?

Gentlemen, I recently dusted off my dead Spider IV HD150 that had been sitting for a few years and brought it back to life with a 31 cent part. In '16 I bought the amp directly from Line 6 (refurbished) but they sent a bad unit that would intermittently cut out and when it was on for an hour or so would start turning on and off repeatedly (LCD would blink on and off and would make popping noises like when the amp is powered on). I was travelling when I ordered it to my house and didn't find out about the problem until it was out of warranty. The first thing I tried was adding a small heat sink to the voltage regulator at U13 because it was super hot to the touch. This about tripled the usable time of the amp until one night I left it on and the next day came back to a dead amp. The display was just displaying all black pixels with no backlight. It ended up in my dead gear area until recently I decided to try fixing the Line 6 products that accumulated over the years. I traced the problem to the ST LM317T voltage regulator located at U2, soldered on a new one, and it's alive again! I even took off my added heatsink from before to test the reliability and it's been going strong all day.

Great to hear you got it working borlock! I'm attaching the 3.1 driver here for those who have this USB controller. Intel(R) USB 3.1 eXtensible Host Controller - 1.10 (Microsoft) PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_A36D A36D USB WIN7 BETA2.3 UNSIGN.7z

Before attempting this procedure make sure that you have this same controller on your system. Open Device Manager and expand "Sound, video and game controllers" Highlight the Line 6 device At the top of Device Manager in the "View" menu select "Devices by connection" This will show you a tree where your USB device is connected so you can find your USB Controller. For me the tree was: ACPI x64-based PC Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System PCI Express Root Complex Intel(R) USB 3.0 eXtensible Host Controller The driver can be found at https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/22824/Intel-USB-3-0-eXtensible-Host-Controller-Driver-for-Intel-8-9-100-Series-and-Intel-C220-C610-Chipset-Family After extracting you will want to edit iusb3hub.inf and iusb3xhc.inf (located in \Drivers\Win7\x64 if you're on 64-bit) as follows: Replace this text [Manufacturer] Intel(R) Corporation = Intel, NTAMD64.6.1, NTAMD64.6.2 [Intel.NTAMD64.6.2] With this [Manufacturer] Intel(R) Corporation = Intel, NTAMD64.6.1 Then restart with the Disable Driver Signature Enforcement option (hold shift when selecting restart/Troubleshoot/Advanced Options/Startup Settings/Restart/Option 7) Manually install the driver in device manager (right click Intel(R) USB 3.0 eXtensible Host Controller/Update driver/Browse my computer for driver software/Let me pick from a list of available drivers on my computer/Have Disk...) Let us know how that goes or post your USB Controller if it's different.

Gentlemen, I was getting distorted sound on my GX, UX2, and UX8 that so many others have described in this forum using Win 10 and a Cherry Trail tablet. It would seem to play at the wrong sample rate and sounded like some bad 8-bit Atari video game noise. This may apply to those with a Surface tablet too. In my case the problem was with the Microsoft Driver for the "Intel(R) USB 3.0 eXtensible Host Controller". Unfortunately Intel discontinued drivers and let Microsoft take over since Win 8. I downloaded the Intel driver 5.0.4.43_v2 for Windows 7, disabled driver signing and edited the .inf to make it work with Win10. After installing the old Intel drivers my Line 6 devices are working properly even through external USB hubs.