SixtiesPopMan

In today's episode of popular woodworking, we're going go over how to use a 3/8 inch diameter oak dowel from a big box store to create more durable spacers for the Variax Model Selector and Alt Tuning knobs. Suggested tools - a vice - a very sharp chisel - a small hand saw (I used a Japanese pull saw) - fine grit sandpaper About a two inch length of the dowel was cut and placed in a vice at about the midpoint of the diameter. ( I could have taken the time to measure the model selector stem and then mark both ends of the dowel with that dimension, to better approximate the actual contour of the stem. I didn't do that as this procedure was intended as an exploration but in fact, ended up being the final setup.) Using a very sharp chisel, the exposed surface of the dowel was shaved off flat. The dowel in the knob shaft. My initial paper spacer was about 3/16th, so I thought maybe double that would be a better length. The ends were sanded down before inserting them into the knobs. As you can see in image below, I must have sanded the model selector spacer more aggressively as it sits lower to the surface. The raised alt tuning knob was noticed immediately but what mattered more was that it worked!!! Based on this, a suggestion is to aim for a 5/16th length dowel spacer that will be a bit shorter after lightly sanding the ends, before insertion.

Meant to say more like a 3/16" plug.

@silverhead Many thanks for that solution! From web reading, I'm guessing that my 2011 model has the short pot shafts. Before I read your post, I cut thick grocery bag paper into a thin strip and then rolled it up it maybe a 3/8" thick plug. After inserting it into plastic knob shaft, the knob now has enough space to toggle on/off. If the paper start to wear down and the problem returns, then at the point, I'll implement your solution. In the meantime, your solution has been added to my text doc survival guide. So far, I'm off to a great start with the new/used Variax. Years ago, I had the cherry finish version. Cheers!!!

Testing my newly acquired JTV59, the Model Selector knob would not light up when pressed down. The guitar was powered by the XPS-AB power supply with two green LED indicating power was being supplied. After some web searching, I gently pulled the knob up, and then pressed down - it worked! Same with alternate tuning knob It seems that I have to do this every time when powering on the JTV59. Not an immediate concern but at some point, with wear and tear, the knob's grip on the pot shaft might loosen. Are there any solutions or recommendations to address this?

Updating the firmware with the Line 6 Central application was an incredibly easy and smooth operation. The JTV59 was connected to a new RJ45/USB I-O (the small black one) which was connected to an M4 MBP via the USB-C connector. macOS15.5 The Line 6 Central application immediately recognized the connected unit. After signing in, it notified me that a fw update was available. No hiccups!

Placed orders for the JTV59 with the USB box and a XPS-AB Variax Cabled Power Direct Box Footswitch w/ Power Supply. Fingers crossed that everything will work, including connecting to Line 6 Central and Workbench HD.

Good to know about Line 6 Central. Thanks!

Hello, Back in the day, I had the cherry finish JTV59 with the included battery charger, RJ45 to USB I/O box, and the A/B box? Sold it all years ago. Just when I wanted to revisit the Variax, I discover they're discontinued. At this point, I would like to acquire a used JTV59 (with included or purchased battery charger) just for playing/recording the modeled sounds. In this case do I need to bother with the RJ45 to USB I/O box, and the Monkey app or whatever? Would they're be a benefit to registering a used Variax to my Line 6 account? Other concerns or recommendations?

Do you use a computer? Laptop? Then here's a whole new angle that will side-step the messiness of installing a MIDI pickup on your JTV-89. It's a software solution. All you need is an audio interface connected to your computer, and the jack cord connecting guitar to interface. The rest is handled via software. http://jamorigin.com/products/midi-guitar/

Here's a thread about installing a GK-3 on a JTV-89: http://www.vguitarforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=8915.0 I don't have a JTV-89 so I can't offer any more input. The Fishman pick up is a bit wider than the GK-3. Looks like it's challenging enough to fit the narrower GK-3. Regarding controllers, it really depends on the hardware that you're using. The Fishman itself is not designed for direct connect to foot or expression pedals, rather the pedals would be connected to the hardware sound module.

If you're using, or planning to use the GR-55, then you absolutely need the GK-3 (some boxes come with the GK-3 included and are priced accordingly). The GR-55 is an amazing sound source: COSM (modeled) guitars, fx, amps, and PCM sounds. But if you plan to trigger other hardware sound modules or virtual synths, the GK-3/GR-55 combo is a bit of a mixed bag. Tracking is fast and accurate say above the fifth fret. But try playing a bass line or riff that includes the open E or A string. The latency is unbearable. In my case, I traded the GR-55 towards the JTV-59. I was briefly using a GK-3 on the JTV to record MIDI in Logic. It was put on the shelf when the Fishman Triple Play became available. The Fishman is the best hardware converter for playing virtual (software) instruments and what few hardware sound modules I still have. The Fishman plus Variax is simply an amazing combo for recording audio and MIDI, or playing live which I don't do.

Here's an image of my gorgeous Korean JTV-59 with a GK-3 pickup. It has since been replaced by the Fishman which is the best hardware solution for triggering external MIDI sources like sound modules or virtual instruments. There's no disputing that a guitar set up with GK-3 pickup will be able to have lightening fast triggering of the synth sounds in the GR-55 unit.

I added a Fishman Triple Play to my Korean JTV 59. It simply works great!!! A software alternative is the evolutionary MIDI Guitar app. You'll obviously need a computer/headphones or other means of monitoring, an audio interface and a jack cord. That's it. I use both the FTP and the MGA depending upon which guitar I have in hand. Me thinks that the FTP is the future. The alternative has served well over the years and will continue to do with with the VG/GR devices.

Here's an interesting video tutorial. The top right side of the video screen is labeled Variax Recordings. I'd click on that to jump to that point in the video, (which is about the middle of the tutorial). It's at this point that he addresses ways of processing the Variax sound beginning with a mixing desk console emulator plug-in. I don't have one and think this plug-in can be skipped. The essential sound shaping plug-ins are the eq and compression. It's difficult to actually see the settings used on the different plug-ins, but the main point is to digest his thinking as each plug-in is tweaked. He's using ProTool, but the content shown can be easily set up in any Mac or PC DAW.

The D12 without parallel pitch does sound really good. The G12 also sounds good but not much different than the J-200. I saved the parallel pitch settings for both instruments which gives me something to experiment with when using other models.

The D12 without parallel pitch does sound really good. The G12 also sounds good but not much different than the J-200. I saved the parallel pitch settings for both instruments which gives me something to experiment with when using other models.

I'm in the process of exploring ways to optimize the acoustic qualities the Variax JTV acoustic models. When you say recording, do you mean with software? If so what plug-ins do you have? It can be hit or miss, but some plug-in settings are good starting points and will at the very least, enhance the sound of the already very good acoustic models. At this point, I think the main ingredients are tape emulation, eq, compression, and reverb. The sound becomes more lively. What are you using to process your sounds?

Good information. Thanks.

My favorite models are the D-28 and the J-200. Using so called "acoustic guitar" presets as starting points in various software plug-ins does seem to warm up the sound to make it sound more authentic. (I do have a high quality acoustic guitar and condenser mics but prefer to use the JTV at this point.) Has anyone used the JTV acoustics with devices such as the Fishman Aura, the Zoom A3, or the Radial PZ? I'm looking for ways to enhanced the sound when recording. Input appreciated.

My point of reference is the Godin LGX-SA as it's the best and most expensive guitar I own. The price is for the guitar. At a similar price point, the cost of my Korean JTV-59 really represents the guitar and the specialized electronics. I rate the JTV-59 a 5/5 as it performs as advertised. - The build quality is very good. No complaints. - The neck is epiphone-like but still comfortable in my smaller hands. - The Mags, while not as robust as those on the Godin, produce a clear and clean sound and are very useable! - The variax models available in the JTV line are better than I expected, especially the acoustic models. Now that I've installed the Fishman Triple Play on the JTV-59, it's my main guitar for recording.

The procedure as written didn't seem to work here with my Korean JTV-59. Only the Guitar Model Selector LED flashed red when inserting a 1/4 cable (TRS connected to the power supply). The flashing red was barely perceptible when looking down at the small exposed area of the knob post. After rotating the Alt Tuning knob to another position, then to MODEL, and finally holding down the Guitar Model Selector knob again, both knobs alternated flashing…endlessly (and not 3 times). Default tunings were not restored. Strange. At this point, the Workbench approach works good enough.

The procedure as written didn't seem to work here with my Korean JTV-59. Only the Guitar Model Selector LED flashed red when inserting a 1/4 cable (the TRS connected to the power supply). After rotating the Alt Tuning knob to another position, then to MODEL, and finally holding down the Guitar Model Selector knob again, both knobs alternated flashing…endlessly (and not 3 times). Default tunings were not restored. Strange. At this point, the Workbench approach works good enough.

Yes, I was. I'm just getting around to revisiting the details partially sparked by the v2 firmware upgrade and the new Workbench HD. If for some reason the manual reset on the guitar itself doesn't work, it's actually pretty easy to accomplish with a few mouse clicks in Workbench. I'll check out the manual procedure and post my results tomorrow. Hope you get this figured out.

I manually saved all of the default settings by selecting them, then using the right arrow to copy them to the User Alt Tuning Presets column. Any custom made tunings show up at the bottom of the list which makes it easier to identify the defaults. It's a matter of click/shift click all of the default presets, then hit the left arrow to restore them to the JTV Alt Tuning Presets column. Is this what you're referring to? It should work the same for your JTV-89.

All set. Saved the tuning to a new model, then set the alt tuning knob to Model. It sounds as expected. Another option was to save the tuning, then swap it for something like Drop Db in the tuning knob which I'll never use. This offers more flexibility when testing out bass sounds in various models. However, coaxing bass out of the existing models really isn't a substitute for an authentic bass guitar model. Better yet, a bank of models!