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orangekeeper2

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About orangekeeper2

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  1. Hi mate, sorry for the late reply... Afraid not, I never figured it out dude...
  2. Hi Folks, This was me and unfortunately I never got it to work. That said though, I strongly believe the idea was sound, but my knowledge of electronics is too poor to figure out where it's going wrong... I KNOW that the HD500 will change the patches on my Variax 500 when it is connected to a spare 500 mainboard and only connected to my Variax with PIN 7 of the VDI being split. I KNOW that I can send a midi signal over the air from the HD500 to a Wireless midi sender when I substitute that onto PIN 7. On my sender, I see the data light flash as I changed patches... I THINK that the signal is being received successfully by the midi receiver (I see the data light flash), but when I connect it's output onto PIN 7 of the Variax 500, it doesn't change the patch. I THINK this is due to me being unable to properly configure the voltage/current being sent from the midi receiver to the Variax... If there are any old timers around, they might remember that this functionality has been asked for pretty much over a decade now, and Line 6 have done it before, without needing to modify anything within the Variax itself. They modified the firmware of the old Flagship Vetta amps in order to be able to send patch changes without having the variax physically connected. See here, from 2006: http://www.vettaville.nl/pagmore.php?id=166 My vague understanding was that the Variax uses AES to send it's digital audio data to/from the PODs and this relies on a clock sync mechanism. Without the physical connection, the clock sync pulse is not initialised and so the connection isn't completed. I think that when Line 6 updated the Vetta, they added a soft switchable option which somehow removed the need for this. However this feature was never added to the HD, X3 or XT POD series... This is why I thought if I took an old spare variax mainboard, so I could trick the POD into thinking it was connected and for all intents and purposes, it did work in theory (As per the diagram in my post). I could just never figure out how to get the variax to receive the correct signal after it had been sent wireless.... I still have the kit and my request still stands... If someone is able to walk me through the electronics side of things, I'd be more than happy to test and feedback any progress. However, in order for my idea to work practically for JTV, you'd need to purchase 2 JTV's, rip the guts out of one and use it to trick the POD. This is absolutely not cost effective, so the only practical solution is for L6 to somehow implement the same firmware change into the PODs, then release a wireless MIDI/Audio hybrid system... So close, yet so far ;-)
  3. I use Graphtech ghosts with a Floyd Rose on my tranplants and usually have to change strings once every few months, but only due to string wear, not from breaking at the bridge... The graphtechs apparently have some kind of coating on the saddles to reduce string wear... I don't remember my 300 bridge ever having problems with this though... This guy suggests a shim if the angle of the string isn't correct... Although the OP's fault is different from yours, the same fix may help you? http://line6.com/support/topic/206-loss-of-sustain-on-my-variax-500/
  4. Hi Folks, Before I begin with this, apologies for the long post. Cutting to the chase, I'm looking for some help... I expect there to be lots of schoolboy errors below and don’t really expect too many responses. I’m conscious this is really old tech and probably a lot of work, but I started this as a bit of fun to see what would happen with no expectations… Anyone who had been around the old forums for a while will probably have seen some mention of legacy Variax users wishing to make their variax fully wireless with POD X3/HD (I.e. wireless audio and patch changing). The functionality was introduced as an unofficial patch for the old Vettas but this was never released on the pods. Threads asking about the Wireless Variax/POD combination resulted in the confirmation that it would not be possible. In order to send patch changes, the POD required a physical connection to a Variax (There were suggestions that this was by design from the AES audio connection). Anyway, I started thinking about this and thought that if I connected my HD500 to an old set of 300 Variax guts that I had lying around, then split the RX+ wire (Patch change sent to Variax), it might work. So as as test, I created a cable to connect my guitar as per the following: I found the following information on the old forums regarding the Pinouts on the Variax cable on the old forums. 1 - GND 2 - PWR (7V) 3 - TX+ 4 - AES- 5 - AES+ 6 - TX- 7 - RX+ 8 - RX- Then used the above to connect as follows: The result was a success. When the guts were connected to the POD, the display shows a Variax connection (The guts). Then, when I changed patches on the POD, both the guts and the variax settings changed. So in some level of practice at least, the POD could indeed change patches on a remote variax. Using a second set of guts works around the AES limitation. Looking at the pages on Vettaville regarding the Wireless Vetta/Variax update, it suggested that the patch changes were controlled via MIDI and that a wireless midi system could be used: http://www.vettaville.net/Vetta%202.5%20Wireless.pdf So I wanted to find a relatively cheap wireless midi system that was low powered. Ideally, The POD would power the sender and the Variax battery would power the receiver. I ended up finding this page about configuring an XBee to send and receive Wireless MIDI data: http://www.ladyada.net/make/xbee/midibee.html Once built, the receiver would be small enough to embed in a guitar (And possibly powered alongside the Variax), or modular so it could be connected to any other Variax... So I bought and built the XBee transceivers and then configured them to transmit at MIDI baud. Testing them confirmed that they were sending wireless data successfully to each other, and for the sender at least, it was powered successfully by the POD, so now I have the following: Note: If this were successful, I’d then simply replace the guitar cable with a wireless guitar system. You’ll see at this point that my transmitter wiring doesn’t match Vettaville’s PDF document. The reason for this is that when I wired as per the PDF, the Xbee didn’t transmit anything at all. However when I powered the XBee from Pins 1 and 2, the used PIN’s 7 and 8 (Rx+ and -) as MIDI data PINs, the XBee was at least sending data when I changed patches. It's at this point that my project and knowledge both break down. When I change a patch on the POD, I DO see wireless activity on the XBees, so I know that the POD is sending some kind of data through PIN 7. Unfortunately though, the Variax doesn't change it's patch... Something in the XBee MIDI circuit is modifying the signal in such a way that by the time it reaches the Variax, it's no longer valid. As soon as the signal enters the Optocoupler in the transmitter, any outputs from this, or the inverter or the XBee are not recognised by Pin 7 of the Variax, so no patch changes occur. I honestly think I could get this working if I had a better understanding of what the Midi circuit was doing to the signal on PIN 7 (Remember this single wire when connected to the guitar changes the patch no problem). If I could ensure that the signal received by the Variax from the receiver matched the signal send by the POD, I’m sure this would work. Here’s what I know: The voltage of PIN 7 from the POD sits between 2-3V. A direct connection to PIN 7 only on the guitar changes patches no problem. After the signal exits the Optocoupler in the transmitter, it’s around 0.2V and then it gets sent to the XBee. The signal from the receiver is also low, but after it hits the inverter, it jumps up to over 7V From what I gather, MIDI isn’t that voltage sensitive so I’m not sure if this is an issue, but I don’t know enough about it. So…. Questions… Is there anyone still on the forums who has successfully used the Vetta Wireless mod? Did you have to alter the wiring from Vettaville’s diagram or did it just work out of the box??? Otherwise, is there anyone here who knows a bit about electronics who could advise on where things may be falling down? Do you know what the Variax is expecting to receive from a current and voltage perspective? If so, could you advise on how I can alter the Transmitter/receiver circuits to suit? If anyone has built midi circuits, I’d love to see someone sanity check the above, especially the wiring of the Pin outs and ins. Thanks all, Mike
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