lumper

Well it sounds like you found the tuner. So, if I understand you right, your having a problem getting the strings to show centered on the tuner? meaning in tune? I use my tuner in my Spider IV as you described, but I dont have any issues, when you use your other tuner stand alone tuner, do you get the guitar in tune? I own a sabine chromatic tuner I use at home, and whether I use that or the line 6 I am able to tune each string to perfect tune. It sounds more like the guitar than the tuner to me, but I dont know what your guitar is, how it is set up, what gauge strings you use, what condition the guitar is in, whether your intonation is set up etc.. Start with this, can you tune your guitar with any tuner and get all 6 strings in tune?

If you cant get a god tone out of one of these your doing something wrong seriously. I run mine out to a Mesa cab and play a Les Paul through it, it sounds amazing, I had to take a pre set and take it apart and rebuild it for me, but then it was awesome!! I cant imagine that you cant dial in a god tone, thats just crazy.

Oh man, I missed that, oh well, I got a presidents day coupon from GC and saved 15% on the amp, so the g10t was only 20$, not free but still a little better.

I paired mine with a Mesa 4x12 Road King half open back cabinet, Sublime!!, use the head and a quality cab, to get full range speaker system, when you unplug the cab you get a 50 watt practice amp with 4" speakers, they switch to full range when not connected to a cab, then they go to high frequency when connected to compliment the 12" speakers in the cabinet.

It says when you register it you will get a download code, did you register the amp? I would email line6 at their page.

Attached is a pic of my new rig after I cut it down, removed speakers, wired it, etc.. and then tested it with the Mesa A Line 6 Spider IV 120 head/footswitch, running to a 300 watt Mesa Road King Rectifier 4x12 cabinet. All tested and ready to go. The 120 watt and 75 watt models I have been using cant handle being cranked up at band practice, to overcome the drums, the amp really suffers. I blew one, or both speakers in my 120, and the 75 watt I am borrowing, sounds like it is gonna blow at any minute. The 75 watt while plugged in at level 4 or up bleeds all kinds of feedback and distortion etc.. so you simply can not get it to silence. This new rig, my old 120 watt chassis and this 300 watt Mesa, are silent, even cranked way way up, quiet as a mouse until I want it to scream, then it screams, warm and proud with no fear of blowing, you can not get that quiet with the stock set up turned up past level 4, at least not in my experience. Basically I took a combo amp not suited for live performances and made it suitable for live performances. The difference between the 150hd and the 120 combo besides 30 watts and maybe some pre sets, is the speaker configuration, the 120 runs through two, 10" speakers that are barely rated to handle the 120 watts, there is no headroom and so the amp sounds great at medium volumes but not turned up, I need it to sound clear and crisp at any level, by pairing these up, I have now got that. I suppose like the 150hd and line 6 cab are probably the equivalent to this set up for those who want to buy line 6 gear for either practice or gigging, I didnt have the time or money to buy a new head and so decided to put this together, it cost me $8.00 and took me a few hours all together between researching, and actually taking the amp apart and then modify and put it back together. Matt

Well, last update. I took apart the connections again and saw that they could be more snug, I tightened them up and low and behold it works, tomorrow I will test it at a higher volume, but just now it was coming through all 4 speakers and sounding very good. Matt I attached a couple pics of the finished product.

Well I got it all together, turns out that I have a blown channel I am thinking, one of the outputs does nothing and the other works but has a distortion to it, so I thought I might have blown my speakers but I think it is something in the pre amp. Everything is connected right and it is the same as when it was acting up before I decided to mod it. Ill have to buy a head for now to keep going. The cab I am running it to is great so I am still happy with the set up, I had just hoped 8$ would have allowed me to use my chassis. Matt PS the red/white are the hots, the blacks are ground

I am doing this mod tomorrow afternoon either way, so if anyone has any input I would appreciate it. I have a pretty good handle on it and I am pretty sure about the wires but just in case I thought it prudent to ask here where someone else may have one and know from having replaced speakers or done other work in there in the past. Thanks again for any input, Matt

The ohms are fine so technically yes, the watts will depend on how hard you push it I guess. I just added a 300 watt 4x12 to my 120 watt head, thinking that even cranked up my cab should handle the heads output without unwanted distortion, I think you will be ok, but I would go plug into one if you can and test it, there is nothing like real world testing to find out. the fact that you have a 150 watt head running out to a 160 watt cabinet like has been said should work, but I would want to go crank it up and see what you have, I play live and we crank it up pretty loud, again testing it is your best bet. Matt

bring your guitar to gc and plug into a new one and try to replicate the sound, see if a brand new one does it. Thats what I would do. Matt

Email tech support and ask them, even if you have to buy one you can price it and weigh that price against replacing the amp, I am sure it isnt very much for the lcd screen, if it is available. Good luck Matt

Hi all, I cant find a schematic or drawing so I am going to just ask. On a Spider IV 120 combo 2x10 amp, on the back, each speaker has two wires running to it. One side has a black and a red wire, and the other speaker has a black and a white wire running to it. I need to know which is positive and which is negative. Common sense tells me that the black wire is ground and the red/white wires are the positive. But since there is a white wire on one speaker and a red wire on the other I paused to make sure. I dont have a tester. All I can think of is they wanted to make sure left and right were identified so they used a white on one and a red on the other, marking them both as positive but this way you can remember left or right. Does anyone know for sure or have any thoughts on this? I would really appreciate the info if anyone knows, thanks Matt

Thanks Mike, I have now bought the switchcraft jacks, and I am going tomorrow to solder them to the speaker wires. I have identified the hot and ground on the switches, I know the tip is hot and the sleeve is ground and those are easily identified on the switches. The only thing I am not positive about and I am searching for right now are the speaker wires. I have a black wire and a white wire running to one of the speakers, and a black wire and a red wire running to the other. Common sense tells me that the white and the red are the positive or hot wires on each speaker and the blacks are ground, but I want to be sure and I dont have a tester. They might be dark green, I dont have it in front of me at the moment so I am going by memory, all I know is they both have a wire that is the same color and then they each have a different color with it, red/white. Usually, red is hot and green is ground, I have also seen black as ground, but I dont understand why they would use a red wire on one speaker and a white wire on the other, unless it was a matter of not mixing up left and right, but identifying them both as "hot wires". If you have any thoughts on the wires colors and -/+ let me know what you think, I am still looking on the site for a schematic. Also, I had a Mesa Boogie Road King Rectifier built for this amp so I can run 2, 8 ohm inputs from the head for a stereo cab, the cab is 300 watts where the head is 120 so I have lots of headroom, I am thinking this is going to sound great, the Road King is a half open back, mis match of speakers, so the sound should be very interesting and warm I hope, I will let you know after tomorrow night when I get this all together and test it. Thanks again Mike Matt

HI all, So long story short, I have the line 6 spider IV 120 combo amp, I blew the speakers. I decided to use a 4x12 instead and keep the combo amp as a head. on the back of the combo amp there are no speaker outputs, only 4 wires, two to each speaker. I want to disconnect the speakers and install 1/4 jacks so I can now run 2 speaker cables out to a 4x12 stereo cab. I am not a tech but I believe all that needs to be done is add the input jacks to these speaker wires. Any info? I would just go buy the $300 150 hd head and be done with it thing is I just spent all my cash on a brand new mesa 4x12 road king cab expecting to just plug it in, lol oops. So since I can not buy a head right now, and I have gigs to play can I make this work or not? The cabinet is 8 ohms stereo set to work with the line 6, I checked with both line 6 and then Mesa before having this cab built. thanks for any help with this, I really appreciate it. Matt

I want to connect my spider IV 120 to my pc for editing. I have the mk1 shortboard. It only has the cat 5 line to the amp, and a 1/4" jack. How can I connect my rig to my pc with this set up? I havent been able to find anything in my searching so I thought I would ask here. Thanks for any help. Lumper