PANT666666

I was on forum looking for help on the Pan control to blend path A and B and noticed my write up from exactly two years to the day... I thought " I have to throw in about some additional things I have learned" so here goes... Ditto on all the stuff in the original post - with some clarifications: Mic input - tricky and likes to feedback - yes but when set as input and using the trim pot on the gain can be a nice addition to the possibilities of the POD. However, I spent time recently trying out different FX with the mic as input, and Im not particularly impressed... the FX are really for guitars. I bought a Trio plus and attaching it to the POD is totaly doable but not as straight forward as simple FX loop - scan on Trio plus in this forum and write down the information and use it on your POD or Helix. I have eliminated the Jam Man XT looper I was using. The JTV 69 Variax is a great versatile guitar that is my only electric guitar to date... Get one if you have the means. Im still digging through the manual - frequently - if you have a POD HD do the same - its a world unto itself. Well, thats it for now. One more thing to consider; 25 years ago I was promised an entire room of the house as my "Studio" (by my now ex-wife). Well kids are moved out and all I eventually got was 30 square feet of a bedroom which was converted to an exercise room. Im not bitter.

I have spent much time jamming on the POD HD500X in the last two years - I found it to be an amazing beast and am happy to have spent the money to buy it, a JT Variax 69, and a DT25 112 amp. Here are some things I now know that I could not figure out when the unit was new, and some others that just bear repeating. Hopefully these will help any newbies who don't want to read the manuals five times over before getting the info. - L6 link to DT25 amp is amazing - if you get the chance to try it out - you should. Even though I hardly use it - the DT25 is a fine amp with lots of options - just like the POD HD500X - the two working in harmony is just plain amazing. To be honest, I don't spend too much time with my DT25 and plug my POD into a Fender Champion 600 (all tube 5W) so my girlfriend doesn't leave me. - Direct out to mixer from the DT25 also amazing - if anyone ever spent 100 hours futzing with microphones only to get the sound wrong knows the value of the direct out. Plug it in and record - that's it. A must try feature if you have the DT25. - JTVariax to the POD HD500X - again, mind blowing synergy brings the capabilities of both the guitar and POD into a whole new dimension of awesome. Furthermore the modeled guitars are whisper quiet (no single coil hum) means the recordings are crystalline and amazing. Even if your DAW or recording device is complete lollipop (like my PC). - Microphone input - loved to feedback - girlfriend would scream at me - until I discovered the Vintage Pre (microphone preamp) hiding in the "Dynamics" section. Its a little weak, but works great with Shure SM58 and you can up the volume adjustment on the mic connection. - Path A for microphone AND Path B for guitar: Create separate signal chains for microphone and guitar - oh my. Its so easy when you make sure there are NO blocks before the path splits to A and B. - Learn to use the LCD screen - it takes a some effort but is worth it. You don't need to involve the PC / laptop and USB interface once you learn the LCD - worth the effort. - Create custom guitars - use the software to generate custom guitars with unique combinations of bodies and pickups as well as with your favorite tunings - that's what its there for. - Harmonica microphone into POD to get the dirty Chicago blues sound - to this day - still not happening. - I know I said you can avoid reading the manual - but don't. The manual contains tons of goodies and requires re reading to absorb what you are looking for - but it can be worth it. I have read over certain sections repeatedly like I have OCD - only to find all sorts of things I really wanted to know after all. Conclusion: The POD HD500X and Dream Rig have prevented me from spending money on needless gear since I purchased it two years ago. I mean why buy that telecaster or another tube amp or more FX pedals when you already have everything in a nice neat package. Hope my post helps.

I have had a dream rig for over a year now and recently moved the HD EDIT to my other laptop (the better one of the two I own). I upgraded everything to the latest firmware and version - and I noticed after a while (say 30 - 45 minutes of play) the HD EDIT becomes unresponsive (i.e. select a new AMP or FX or make a settings change to a patch). I brought up task manager on the laptop (HP Pavillion d6000 - Windows 7 Pro) and watched the memory use by HD EDIT - it seems to start by using 40,000 K of memory and over time inflates to 105,000 K plus. I disabled (stopped) other Microsoft Office related background processes - and results were better - but I would expect the software to not hang on me. It requires restarts of the software and /or the laptop itself. Its a pain. I would like to hear more about the memory usage by the POD HD 500X and the HD EDIT software - like "is my configuration to minimal"? and " what do I need to stop the application from hanging"? I have the $$$ - I need the answers.

I discovered what I was doing wrong months later... With just the amp selected (and a Volume and Wah assigned to EXP 1 and 2) - I tried the Mic (setup as Input 2) - not so good (volume too low). Then I went to the amp model controls and increased the gain - all was OK. The amp gain has a major effect on what the mic will pickup (in conjunction with the mic volume level on the back of the POD HD 500X)

Update to all readers of this post: The most effective means of using a looper in conjuction with a POD HD500X: From POD FX send to input on your looper/ Looper out to FX return on POD/ on your POD signal chain ADD an FX/Loop (no parameters) - Done Test the looper by playing something into the POD and create a loop all should be right as rain.

Nevermind y'all. The answer is: Unbalanced. I plugged a stereo cable from the electric piano to the AUX IN on the HD POD 500X and through the headphones connected to the POD I could hear only the left channel of the piano. I also tried connecting the same cable to the CD/MP3 IN jack and could hear the full stereo through the headphones (yay!) but then found I could not route that audio to the attached looper stompbox (through an FX Loop) (awwwwwww!). Guitar in is unbalanced. Oh well - I guess I should be pleased with all the other connection possibilities - so no complaints!

I would like to try connecting a balanced digital piano to my POD HD 500X so I can add additional input to my attached looper stompbox. So far the sound from the piano is thin when I use the Left output from the mixer to go into the AUX IN. I believe I will have to purchase the right "Y" cable to do this. So my question - is the AUX IN a balanced or unbalanced connection?

I reviewed the POD HD 500X manuals and find very little about the MIC input. Specifically - how one would use it. Does anyone use this connection? And if yes - what are some tips to using it. I tried my connection yesterday and found it to be easy to get feedback and the signal output kinda sucked. I switched cables but never found the happy place. For now I am just looking to get the basic singer/songwriter configuration. I am finding myself plugging into a separate mixer amp than the dream rig to get a good mix. Is this necessary? Help!

I will make the point that the idea is to use the POD creatively - certainly there is so much within the 500 series that one would have at least two to three product cycles to fully exploit the options they present. It took me quite a while to outgrow the Digitech RP100 I purchased years ago - not sure I really have outgrown it. Nonetheless the POD HD500x or 500 are both tone monsters with gigantic learning curves. The reason we buy these products is to enhance our playing - they make that happen - now let's all take a knee and praise Line 6!

I spent some time trying that this weekend. That is the direct route to feedback. I also tried using the various outs and ins Aux, Line Out, brought the signal from the looper back into FX return (no) - nothing worked and majority gave me no sound or feed back. There has got to be a way to do this.

Bonjour, I have a JamMan Solo (mono) and just hooked it up for first time yesterday. So... I have no claim to knowing what I'm doing - but here is what I have so far. First setup - POD HD500 FX send to input of JamMan - Output of JamMan to POD HD500 FX Return - record not working - so I rebooted the HD500. On my first test I generated (with headphones plugged into the HD500) the most horrible screeching feedback at max volume (all at 5:30AM!). OK - so disconnected the out from the JamMan and replaced it with headphones. From that point I had a good time for the rest of my Jam but I can see its not 100% yet. I looked to the HD500 connections and will try to use one of the Unbalanced Outputs to the JamMan and route the JamMan output to the AUX In on the HD500. Will keep you posted. Let me know if you figure it out.... Thanks

Found a proper tool for this job. Its called a spanner wrench. It looks like a rectangular piece of sheet metal with a "V" stamped out of each end. The V contains serrated edges perfect for gripping all sizes of nuts. It is designed to access the narrow space between knob and pickguard and let you tighten the nut. They are hard to find in stores - may be best to order online.

I fixed a wobbly tone knob on my JTV 69 and want to let all know what I did and what not to do. Do not - remove the Philips head screws holding the pick guard to the guitar body. There is nothing you want to see in there (trust me). Do - obtain a super flat (stamped from sheet metal) crescent wrench of the correct size (unsure of the size - cause I don't have the right size wrench myself). Place masking tape on either side of the wrench if you are concerned about scratching the pick guard. Position the wrench between the pick guard and bottom edge of the knob and tighten the nut. This should restore stability to the knob. For what its worth Line 6 - you could send someone to Korea to check on the quality issues with the guitars - I think the price point of the guitar warrants the extra cost of eliminating poor quality, unhappy customers, and unnecessary returns. Despite my bitching - nothing catastrophic has yet to be discovered but one wonders what troubles lay ahead... So far: Missing allen wrench for whammy bar set screw Model knob cap just fell off - had to be reglued Model knob will turn on/off only in the Custom 1 or 2 positions Wobbly Tone knob Intonation issue with high e string Just saying.

This was in standard tuning

I have a strange but true story: I plugged the 1/4 TS patch cable into my JTV69 and my Behringer KFX3000 keyboard amp via a Behringer XENYX 802 mixer (no fx). While testing out various guitar models - I began to notice a low frequency buzz on the Behringer amp's 15" speaker - I was playing with only moderate attack - guitar volume knob was 100%. I tried to make it go away by adjusting the EQ on the mixer and everything else I could think of but no luck. Certain models seemed to overwhelm the strudy KFX30000. I unplugged the guitar and tested again with the electric piano - playing on the lower registers and the amp held up with no sign of buzzing... I think this is a function of the DSP in the JTV69. Has anyone come across this and do you have and explanation for it? Thanks

I recently purchased a JTV 69 and had the same thing happen. I used three small dabs of super glue GEL and put back together and let cure for a few hours. All has been good since.

Well... I don't like it. But far be it from me to not take the sage advice of this impressive forum: So - using the super glue gel (allows for micro application) placed three small drops (globs) at 12 , 4 and 7 o clock onto the chrome plated knob insert and placed knob insert into drum formed by the model selector switch - glue set up in a few minutes - tested OK. That should hold it - I hope I never need to remove the knob insert. Remember kids - having a dream rig is scary, but it's never boring.

I approached Elderly instruments and received the following reply: "Our apologies for any trouble with your Variax Guitar. Unfortunately we are no longer a Line6 dealership which is why we were closing out this line of products from our inventory. So we are limited to how we can be of assistance with the knob problem. Still we'll do what we can to help." Note: there is more text - and to their credit, the reply was fast and they offer a return. The never mentioned the closeout due to not being a Line 6 dealer - but that's no big surprise. I went on to ask about the "setup" that all of their guitars are to experience - I was told they put this one through a setup prior to making it a saleable item - I guess its just not the same as the $65 setup my luthier does. At any rate I will do with super glue... Thanks all for your awesome advice.

For what its worth, I am dating a Korean girl who was made in 1964. To date there has been no problem with the e string slippage. (Im sorry, I couldn't resist)

I just started having trouble with the selector knob as well. The top of the knob (chrome piece) will not stay in the barrel that is the model selector. I don't want to use glue because of the push on/of function could be harmed. Does anyone have any other ideas and possibly a photo or explosion diagram? This is no way for a new $1000 guitar to behave. Elderly instruments will be hearing about this one today!

I have a Dream Rig and a Hohner Blues Blaster harmonica microphone. The problem with the harmonica microphone is it lacks a more expensive Crystal Element to give it a nice dirty tone. Instead it produces a nice clear signal which is a problem because I want to get some seriously dirty tone. My thought is I could work with the amp models and FX on the HD500X /DT25 produce a reasonable facsimile. So far Ive wasted an hour and have nothing to show except tons of feedback. Does anyone know how to achieve the dirty tone? Is there something on CustomTone.com that I could base it on? Im both stymied and flummoxed (Im not lollipoptin you - I really am). Help!

The DT25 112 is my first tube amp. The other amp I own is a fairly quiet solid state amp by Behringer (KFX3000). The DT25 seems quiet (almost silent) when in its default Class A configurations, and hums (at a reasonably low level ) when in the Class AB mode. Particularly noisy are the III and IV bias settings. Now I am not saying the hum is really a problem at all, but I bought this amp used and I want to be sure that my newbie ears are not witnessing a problem that the vendor needs to address. So... my question is - Should I experience some lower level humming when the amp is in particular voicings because that's the way that voicing is supposed to be - or should all voicings be silent when they are at 50% Drive / Volume. Thanks in advance for your help

Thanks for the reply - I work in IT so I have had enough of the trial and error. I should have trial and error tattooed. Anyway, just FYI - Yamaha UX16 is on the "works well with DT25 112 firmware upgrades" list. Had success with the whole mess despite a few tries with the MIDI before it became functional. Thanks to all for you direction

I have an older MIDI to USB connector - I think it is a Yamaha. Lets review: Plug MIDI In and Out to amp and USB to PC >>> Bring up Monkey >>> follow prompts to perform any driver updates first >>> possible reboot >>>> Download firmware update to DT25 112 >>> Done... (sound right - or should the MIDI to USB drivers be installed prior to anything ?

Thanks for the input. Amp DT25 1X12 (used) JTV Model 69 POD HD 500 X