MadScientistDude

Thanks for the info! I took a careful look at the battery door and found that the metal plate that acts as the connector between the battery poles and holds the lock in place was floating. The factory didn't melt the plastic bosses to hold the thing together. Of course is seems to have other issues as well. I put in for a warranty repair.

I have a brand new dead G30. This post has been here since May and not a single Line 6 representative has responded.

My G10 was fixed once under warranty the same week I bought it for the flimsy USB connector issue then replaced towards the end of the warranty after it just quit working.

You are correct, the transmitter only lights up if I push hard on the battery door and even then the two lights blink on and off as if there is an error code. Its really frustrating because my G10 is range limited. Nothing close to advertised no matter what environment, and for the 2 gigs that this G30 worked I barely got a few more feet of range. With all the problems people are having I'm surprised the Relay division is still in business. And here it is 2 months after the post and not a peep from a Line 6 representative on this official Line 6 forum.

I bought a G30 in May and it no long works. The transmitter light does not come up. I've put new batteries in. The receiver light also does not turn on. Thanks in advance.

I bought a new G30 while my G10 is in for warranty repair. Used it for a couple of gigs. Experienced dropouts in an outdoor gig in a RF-sparse area and indoor gig while just 10 feet from the receiver, transmitter clipped on guitar strap. Switched channels, same problem. I noticed when the dropouts happen if I push the guitar away from my body a few inches the signal comes back. It is not a cable or guitar wiring problem, does same thing on acoustic and electric guitar and bass. Please advise, Thanks...

I have taken this G10 under warranty to a Line 6 certified repair shop and bought a G30 to tie me over. The new G30 has failed.....

Out of the blue at a gig this weekend my bass guitar started crackling badly when I adjusted any of the pots. I thought that my bass pots were going bad. Then during the last set the G10 quit working. I switched over to the guitar cable and played the rest of the show, no crackling of the pots when adjusting the pots and the guitar worked fine.... I tried the G10 today on another bass and it crackles as if there is a DC bias being injected back into the guitar electronics, then it stops working. Is this something that has been seen before? Thanks in Advance.

Thanks for your response Phil! I should have been more specific. The problem is with the USB A receptacle on the supplied power adapter. I noticed the day I purchased it that mating force was lower than any USB A connection I have ever used, to the point where the tiniest pressure would pull it out. I was busy setting up for a show and it worked so it passed from my thoughts. It was after several shows that the unit failed to work (no power LEDs) that I realized the USB A plug could be inserted backwards yet appear normally seated. I took a look at the receptacle and was disappointed to find that it was a pin type rather than a USB and that there was no mechanical keying as is specifically called for in all USB standards. It is simply not the correct mating connector for a USB A plug. As a result of it being so loose and having tiny pins, two of the four were pushed sideways and flattened. I tried to bend the pins back out but they were stressed to the breaking point and snapped off. I then Googled the issue and was even more disappointed to find on this forum and others that many, many customers have reported this same issue two years before I bought mine, yet the problem still exists and they are selling known defective units. Thats pretty crappy....

I purchased a Relay G10 about 45 days ago and have had nothing but problems. My first gig the day of purchase went fairly well, only one dropout about 35 feet from the receiver all night. The following week I plugged it in at a venue and the receiver was completely dead. No LEDs. I was forced to revert back to wire. I got home and plugged it in and it worked. I thought maybe I had a bad electrical outlet. The following week at another venue I again had the same issue. Completely dead. I tried several different outlets to no avail. Reverted back to wire. Tried it at home again later, worked fine. Next gig the unit powered up however I had to stand directly next to the receiver. Any further than 7 feet away I lost signal. Uplugged it and reverted back to wire. So this goes on for weeks. Sometimes it works great but more often it doesn't. I try it again at home and this time it doesn't work. I check the outlet and the cables and to my shock I find the USB cable can be plugged in backwards! And of course it doesn't work plugged in backwards. I test it with another cable and find it can be plugged in and seated completely backwards as well. Looking at the receptacle in the power supply I found a non-standard pin type connector rather than a USB connector. Its a very disappointing design and does not meet the keyed criteria of the USB specifications. So Friday I took it to an important gig now conscious of the connector polarity issue, plugged it in and it is dead. No lights. I swap the polarity and nothing. Dead. I look at the receptacle connections and find the first two pins are bent completely sideways flattened against the bottom of the connector. I revert back to wire. So yesterday I Googled this problem and discovered that this has been a major issue with the product since 2016. Why do you sell stuff that has known problems that can be easily re-engineered? And why would a person who discovered that you sell stuff that is known to have problems (that you don't fix) continue to by Line 6 products? And since its been more than 30 days how do I get my money back for this thing?