Jump to content

ajmee

Members
  • Content Count

    14
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About ajmee

  • Rank
    Just Startin'

Profile Information

  • Registered Products
    3

Recent Profile Visitors

144 profile views
  1. Thanks - re-flashing with Monkey/interface did nothing, and I tightened the two screws alongside the wheel as much as possible without forcing it.
  2. Hi folks. I'm running into issues with the Alt Tuning Knob on the JTV-69. My goal is to restore the stock Alt Tuning presets on the knob, but can't seem to do so. Standard, Drop D, and half down are the problem spots. Everything else works fine. When trying to recreate the tunings, it'll mess up the others. For example, programming Standard in the Standard slot can alter the tunings in the Drop D slot. And vice versa. Re-flashing th JTV doesn't help at all. Nor does the Factory reset procedure (I never see the red lights on the two knobs). I also unplugged and replugged all of the connections on the main board - no luck. Any ideas? I already had a main board service replacement on this once - I really don't want to do that again. Thanks!
  3. Hi - my son has a IV 15 that requires a new input jack (got a tip of the cable stuck in there, and then I subsequently loosened the tension clips.) I purchased a replacement Jack (21-00-6616). When I went to remove the old jack from the main board, I completely de-soldered the old one (all six lugs). But I can't seem to spring it free from the main board - it won't move at all. There's a wrap that goes around the edge of the main board, but it doesn't seem like it's the part that's keeping the jack so tied to the board. Any ideas? Aside from those six lugs, how do I get that old piece removed from the board? Thanks
  4. 4.2.7.4 drivers didn't change a thing on my end - still in Rice Krispies City on Win 10. I have dual-boot to Win 8.1 on this machine - still no problems there.
  5. Thanks again, syotani! Yep - already running at 100% min here. I was in the same boat when Windows 8 first came out - L6 was reaaaallly slow getting drivers out, and had to flip that setting. Not working as well this time, even after flipping to different USB ports :( Others: If you don't know about this setting, you might want to try this if your UX2 (or similar) starts sounding like Rice Krispies right after a Win10 upgrade: Control Panel / Power Options / Change Plan Settings / Change Advanced Power Settings / Processor Power Management-MinimumProcessorState-PluggedIn = 100
  6. Thanks, syotani! Running 64-bit Win10 RTM build here. Syotani's 16/48kHz workaround + the PODFarm/Win8 Compatibility worjarounds do *work*, I guess. Crackling now abounds on both recording and playback - this isn't going to work for me until we get new drivers.
  7. That factory nut (my 69S was one of the Sweetwater 2nds) was in awful shape. String heights at that first fret were all over the place. So that was the first adjustment I had made, along with a pro setup. I don't struggle as muck with a similarly-chunky LP I have. But maybe it has something to do with the angle of things over the neck, to your point. In any case, a replacement neck might be an interesting experiment (plus a nice item for the Xmas list)...
  8. Thanks, clayman. In my case, I'd either need to leave out the screws permanently, or find replacement screws that were flush with the pickguard. The FTP pickup would lay across where those two screws currently reside. I'm heading to the hardware store tomorrow to see if they have any screws with a flat top. Just wanted to make sure I don't destroy anything by temporarily removing those two screws...
  9. Yeah, maybe it really is just a neck profile thing. That, plus seeing those beautiful maple boards, has me GASsing for a replacement neck now :)
  10. Love the pics, folks. I'm thinking of doing a swap myself. I struggle with the string tension on my JTV-69S. Even with a pro setup, my fretting hand gets pretty exhausted after awhile. On any Strat or Tele with the same gauge strings (.010s), I'm all good. I don't know - maybe it has something to do with the fretwire on the stock JTV necks? For those of you that did the swap, do you find that the string tension changed at all (for better or worse)? Thanks!
  11. Hi folks. I've read some of the other threads on this topic, but I'm not sure my scenario is covered. I own a Fishman Triple Play - currently installed on a MIM Strat, but would love to move it to my JTV-69S. As others have noted, installing the FTP (or GK-3, for that matter) is just fine on a JTV-69 or JTV-59. However, I have the SSS version of the JTV-69, and the pickguard shape is pretty different, especially in the area where the FTP would need to be installed. Two pickguard screws secure the edge between the bridge and the bridge pickup. With those in-place, I can't fit the FTP in that area (where it really needs to be.) So, my question is - can I safely remove those two screws on the JTV-69S without worrying about the Variax innards being impacted? Thanks in advance!
  12. Hello - I'm having some pretty tough challenges working with the Instrument inputs on my UX8. Whenever I play through the front Instrument inputs (either input, pad on or off, any instrument, any cable), I get an up-and-down volume effect on notes that are held. It sounds as if a compressor is in between my instrument and the UX8, and it's throbbing/pulsing. I get this response regardless of whether I'm using PODFarm, some other virtual rig, or recording dry tracks. The attached MP3 is recorded 100% dry signal - you'll hear the pulsing volume at least twice. Any ideas? It's not a cable/instrument issue at all (tested with several of each), nor is it a clipping issue. Just want the notes to decay normally - thanks! ux8 wobble.mp3
  13. HI there. I absolutely love the tone I can get out of my Spider Valve MkII 112 combo. I've had it for two years and I keep coming back to the amp. I've owned the MkI 212, and I have tried the DT series - but I still like the feel of the SV MkII best of all. However, I can't help but be frustrated when it comes to trying to use this in a live setting. When I am at home, I can play with the knobs all day and get very usable tones. And if I leave the amp in Manual mode, I can play the amp as if it were a single-channel amp that's easy to negotiate when playing live. But I want the preset capabilities to be useful for me! In a nutshell, here's what I run into: Presets sound different in a bedroom setting than they do in a live setting. I totally get that. In a live setting, I may need to start tweaking the tone knobs. HOWEVER, I don't know the current position of each tone knob on a preset unless I go into the LCD screen. As I start to tweak things, I tend to get lost and mentally lose my reference point. In a live setting, I may also need to re-calibrate the channel volumes for each of the patches (so that patch-to-patch transitions have consistent volume.) But I face the same challenges as I do with the tone knob - PLUS - the Master Volume tends to rattle-and-slide during performances. When that MV position changes on its own, so does the perceived volume deltas between the patches. As I make changes, you want the settings to stick around the next time you get to that preset. That forces you to save your preset every time you make a tweak. In my case, I wind up having to re-save presets multiple times in a session. Once again, I kind of lose my reference point. I know I can have a "base" set of presets in one bank, and have my "changed" ones in another, but it requires a whole bunch of button-mashing. I think many of us know about the challenges with the MV knob by itself (scratchy at low-volume adjustments, linear-taper makes it hard to dial in something between whisper-quiet and stadium-loud, etc.) - and haven't really heard about any solutions here. At present, I use the Volume pedal in post-position and roll off volume to help dial in some in-between volumes - not ideal at all, but kinda works in a pinch. Clearly, if the SV MkII's panel was laid out a bit more like a conventional multi-channel amp (DT series included), you can avoid a good chunk of the pain above. But I really enjoy playing through this amp and would hate to swap out my rig just because I struggle with the control layout. Aside from my complaining here, I'd like to hear what experiences you have had with the amp in live situations (where extensive button-mashing isn't an option when you're trying to reduce/eliminate dead air in-between songs). Am I missing something here? Do you have a better approach to how to tweak things on-the-fly? Would love to hear your thoughts - thanks!
×