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pengipete

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  1. If you are connecting to your amp from the Pod Go's "Amp" output connector, you may need to change a setting on the Pod. Press both "page" buttons to open the settings, then open "global settings" - on the "Ins/Outs" screen ensure that "Amp Out Source" is set to "Main Out" - the alternative, "Pre Cab/IR", only sends the signal to the last effect before the virtual amp. This is a universal setting - once set, you won't need to mess around with editing patches to make them work (and you really want to avoid doing that as it affects the stereo/mono output of the patches)
  2. This works as a "multi-effects" - it lets you form a chain of modules including effects, amps and speakers as if you were using real-world devices. You certainly can have a number of virtual "pedals" in that chain and you can even opt to place them at different positions within the set-up. There's a limit to the number of effects that can be used simultaneously but that's not a huge limitation for most users - you could, for example, have a wah-wah, distortion, amp, cabinet, delay, reverb and EQ all working at the same time - and if you prefer to move the EQ infront of the amp, you can. If it helps, this pedal sounds amazing and has a lot of hidden depths. If you are new to multiFx, it may seem a bit intimidating at first but stick with it. I'd highly recommend going on YouTube and looking for a chap named Jason Sadites - he's not only an expert on this and other Line6 hardware, he's also a superb teacher who makes it all easier to understand (even watch his tutorials on Helix and other Line6 hardware as they have a lot in common with this, plus much of the advice is generally applicable to sound processing). And of course, keep following these forums. I've only posted a few times as there are far better informed people than me posting here but I do read a lot and have gained a lot from these other users.
  3. Having mucked around with the send/return idea, I decided that the easiest solution was to just add my Boss RC10R after the Pod's main outs (I connect it in stereo but mono would be just the same). It just seemed like such a faff to have to move the loop insert around on every patch and ultimately, I couldn't see any real advantage to making life more complicated. I considered the cost of powering-up the looper every time but then I also considered the fact that I also want to use the looper without the Pod Go, so the two cancelled each other out. I added an inline power-switch to the looper (dirt cheap via Amazon or ebay) to make it easy to power everything without crawling around the floor. I also added a simple 3in>1out switch so the whole lot is left connected to a stereo amp and speakers, the MP2 input of a Blackstar HT amp and a spare output (just in case ;) ). A Roland ABY pedal means my guitar is connected to either or both of the amp's input and the Pod Go's input (the Blackstar's mp3 input only works if there's something - anything - plugged into the amp's main input - so this is actually a tidy solution) - this lets me have a quick noodle on the amp whilst playing back (not recording) the RC10's loops - no need to power-up the Pod Go and get bogged down with hundreds of presets. With the Pod's send/return sockets free, I added a bluetooth receiver and set the pod to use the return as "Aux" - so I can easily stream backing tracks from my laptop and play everything through whichever amp I fancy. I found that the correct output levels for the Pod/RC10 and the stereo amp were too hot for the Blackstar's mp3 input - but I found a simple inline volume control which sorts that problem. It's mostly about ease - I'm not very mobile and wanted to make switching between everything as easy as possible - this keeps everything permanently connected - no more cable swapping required and no fiddling with patches or duplicating them to make them suit different set-ups. (If it helps, I found that everything works perfectly with the Pod and RC10's volume knobs all set at 12 o'clock - loops are recorded at played back at the same volume. If you want the loop playing back a touch quieter just drop that volume a fraction on the looper.)
  4. Just switch it on - when the screen shows the Line 6 & Pod Go logos, the firmware version is shown at the bottom of the screen. Alternatively, if the Pod Go is connected to your PC and "Pod Go Edit" is running, select "About Pod Go edit..." from the HELP menu and it's shown at the bottom of the "about" window.
  5. Hi. Found an issue since updating to 1.12. Using a six switch loop - when I press the MODE button to return to PLAY VIEW, none of the buttons are lit. The lights only come back on after I step on one of the buttons.
  6. Excellent - thanks. It's basically saying what I was assuming - that the "amp" and "cab" are really just more effects, to be used or not as required - basically just fancy EQ presets.
  7. Not advocating that anyone shouldn't be able to do as they please - just saying that it seemed odd to me that the default on all these devices places effects after the speaker. As silverhead said, that makes sense if you look at it as a production tool rather than a replacement for a dozen stomp pedals plus a virtual amp.
  8. You're absolutely right - I'm obviously thinking just in terms of playing and not considering it as a recording studio - I'd do any "post cab" processing in my DAW as part of the total sound of a track. I'd messed around and it seemed insane that I can put the cabinet before the power-amp (and that does affect the output sound of the patch) - that's what triggered me thinking about this. Moving the amp & cab to the last position in the flow didn't seem to alter the sound at all - so having the effects after the cab is still jarring for me. It just seems to make a lot more sense to me - especially when visualising the flow of processing when using 4CM - to move the power amp and cab to the end. I guess I'm just old :)
  9. Just a general observation that's not Pod Go specific - hope that's okay on this forum. Was messing around with my lovely new Pod Go and it struck me that all of the multifx I've used have a fundamental flaw with the design/logic of their virtual layout. Ignoring the ability to move effects around on these classy Line 6 gizmos, the multifx I've used all have the same basic path for effects (and it shows on all of the factory presets on this Pod Go).... Guitar input> patch level> Gain effects > Amp > Cab > Time-based Effects > Output. (there may be a send/return option around the amp/cab stage). Thing is - that model is actually saying that we can add time-based effects AFTER the sound has left the speaker??? Surely, the correct path should (must?) always have the power amp and speaker cab at the very end of the chain - it makes no sense in terms of a real-world rig to do otherwise. The pre-amp and send-return loops should go where the amp/cab combo is by default. Is there some specific reason why multifx designers all seem to be using this same illogical (and inaccurate) layout - with effects magically being applied after the power-amp & speaker. And is there any good reason for us not to move the power amp and cabs to the end of the patch on our own devices?
  10. That's perfect - thanks silverhead, very much appreciated.
  11. Hi all. Am new to Line6 products but have used Zoom and Digitech multiFX in the past - those had far fewer settings, mostly just basic gains, times and levels of each virtual "pedal". Am loving the Pod Go but could do with knowing the purpose of the many settings of the individual virtual devices - e.g. the "pattern" setting of the multi-pass delay "pedal" or the "DutyCycle" of the PitchRingMod. Can anyone recommend a single source of that information - the alternatives being to try to find the user-manuals for every original pedal that the Pod Go emulates or to try every single setting by ear and hope to remember what they all mean (eek!). Best I've been able to find is hopelessly vague lists of pedal types that just describe the general function of reverb, delay etc. I appreciate that there's unlikely to be a complete description of all settings (not when some manufacturers try to be "quirky" with the labels they give to settings) but a general description of the more common settings like ducking, feedback, gainmod and earlyreflc would be a big help. Thanks
  12. Basically - a guitar amp is two amps working one after the other - a pre-amp and then a power-amp. You cannot bypass the power amp because that's the part that makes the sound come out of the speaker. Also, a cab is just another way of saying "a speaker in a cabinet". You obviously can't "bypass the cab" of your physical equipment - you have to have a speaker. Asking to bypass the entire head and speaker/cab is like asking to use a TV but bypass the screen and its speakers. So, you will always be using the power amp and the speaker - but you may be able to bypass the pre-amp section of the physical amp. That will get you close to what you seem to be after. Whether or not that is possible depends on the amp itself - it will have to have at least one input that passes a signal directly to the power amp. The most obvious would be a send/return or effects loop - you may even have something like an mp3 or line input you can use. If not, forget it - your signal goes via the pre-amp and that's that. If you have the necessary inputs, you should be able to bypass the pre-amp - which will generally leave you unable to tweak settings such as gain and EQ on that amp - you may also be unable to control the volume of the amp and all settings will have to be done at the pedal. Keep in mind that bypassing the pre-amp will remove much of the amp's character but any guitar amp will have a sound of it's own at every stage (which is why it's very common for people to tweak amps by changing valves and why swapping speakers is regarded as one of the best and quickest ways to radically alter and improve any combo or cabinet) - you will never be able to hear only the Pod Go's processed sounds through an amp designed for a guitar without that sound being "tainted" (for better or worse). The nearest you'll come to a "transparent" amp is going to be a PA system or other non instrument specific amp - some keyboard amps may come close. In the short term or just for home use, running from the Pod's "main" outputs to your home hi-fi or a set of powered speakers will work - be careful not to try to pump extreme frequencies out at full power and you'll be fine. Not really sure on the second part of your question - surely you just have to try them and find the one you like. I'm not sure it's normal to select a preset based on it working with a particular make of amp - I think you need to focus on what song or style of music you want the patch to work with and don't forget that your guitar, your pickups and your playing style is going to affect the way any patch sounds. Short version - plug it in and listen to each patch yourself cos only you know what you are hearing.
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