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Sheriton last won the day on May 2 2014

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  1. THH12 is the model number. The early models were from the V70 range, with current ones being V75. If memory serves, a firmware update would essentially convert a V70 in to a V75 version. If the firmware is up to date, you have a V75 THH12.
  2. Presumably you turned Crypto off again? You didn't accidentally change the RF mode at the same time?
  3. A slight clarification - the mute LED on the receiver indicates that the transmitter is muted (or at least that the receiver believes that the transmitter is muted.) The receiver itself has no mute function so there's no way of unmuting it. All I can think of is to triple check that the transmitter isn't locked (which would prevent its mute button from working) and also to check firmware versions. I don't know if there's any compatibility issues between different versions (there shouldn't be!) but it's good housekeeping to keep them both current. Try switching between RF1 and RF2 modes as well if you can - no reason why that should affect this but you never know. One final thought - it's conceivable that if there's huge amount of RF interference present, the receiver may give up trying to operate and stay silent (clutching at straws here) - do the RF lights show any signal with the transmitter switched off? Also try a different channel.
  4. That's odd - those are the ones that come bundled with the kits that contain lav mics. I have several - all work perfectly. I have the very vaguest of recollections of an issue years ago, maybe with an early version of these systems. (I might be remembering incorrectly!) How old is your transmitter / was it bought from new? It would be worth trying some substitutions with identical components if you have access to any e.g. does a different TX have the same issue when using that particular mic etc.
  5. Which lav mic did you buy? Your description sounds like it's RF breakthrough in to the mic lead. It's always good practice to keep the cables away from the transmitter antenna - wrapping spare cable around the pack is a big no no.
  6. As long as you keep your paddles well away from the router antennae, you should be OK. Don't forget that sometimes where you point the null of the P180 paddles is more important than where you aim the front of them. Always check the status of the receiver LEDs with all transmitters switched off but the WiFi stuff switched on. That'll show you any potential issues.
  7. Fair enough. I figured if the PSU was borderline, the slight increase in loading when it was doing more work upon receiving a valid signal might tip it over the edge which would then cause unexpected behaviour with the receiver. As with all troubleshooting, divide and conquer is the way to go - substitute each component that you can and see if the problem stays or goes away. It's either a fault in the receiver itself or in the PSU. If you can rule out one of those, you'll be a step nearer to identifying the fault.
  8. It doesn't sound like a common fault. Mains power supplies are often the most failure-prone part of equipment so I'd be inclined to start by looking there. Do you have access to another PSU that you could try with the receiver? It's 9v at 500mA. If your current one is struggling, it might explain parts of the receiver shutting down.
  9. Sounds like you might need to check whether you're in RF1 or RF2 mode. If you had more than one mic switched on and were mixing modes, you'd get exactly these symptoms. In virtually all cases, you'll want (everything) to be in RF1 mode. Do you have any other equipment close to the receiver that transmits anything on any frequency? Bluetooth music steaming, wireless lighting control, mobile phone etc? If so, move them several feet away. There are lots of RF issues to be aware of when using wireless mics - they're never plug & play, no matter how cheap or expensive they are. I've seen several people on here adamant that their equipment was faulty only to discover it was something like them leaving a spare transmitter sat on top of the receiver! Keep everything that transmits well away from your receiver antennae.
  10. These Line6 receivers won't be damaged by phantom power but some other receivers can be. It doesn't provide any benefit so it's good practice to not apply phantom unless it's actually needed e.g. for condenser mics and active DI boxes.
  11. What happens if you connect a wired mic to the Korg input? It might have been a typo, but you'll need an XLR to TRS not TS cable to connect (anything) to the Korg. I suspect part of the problem may be that you're using a lavalier mic - because these are used so far away from the mouth, you need a lot more gain than you do with any other type of mic. The input on the Korg will likely be expecting someone singing at close proximity in to a handheld type mic which will produce a vastly higher signal level.
  12. The outputs of the receiver are designed to operate at exactly the same level as a microphone so you can treat them just as if there were a direct connection to a microphone. In a conventional live setting, that means connecting the XLR output to the mic preamp input of a mixing console. (This is all explained in the manual.) Don't worry about only seeing one light on the meter - that's normal. These mics have a huge amount of headroom so it's almost impossible to overload them. You'd have to be really screaming to light all of the meter LEDs! There's no level adjustment in the transmitters because they have such a large dynamic range, that they don't need it. Same as how a wired mic doesn't have a built-in level adjustment. Your best option with the Kronos would be to use a balanced XLRF to 1/4" jack cable. Set the Kronos switch to mic level. The preamps in there won't be particularly high quality but you shouldn't hear any difference between connecting a wired mic to those inputs and using the Line6 mic. Don't worry about phantom power - you don't need it with radio mic receivers (and indeed some will be damaged if you connect phantom to them). I wouldn't recommend using the jack output from the V75 receiver. It's the same level (I believe) as the XLR but unbalanced. If for any reason you do ever use it, you have to use a two pole jack (TS), not three pole (TRS), as the ring is used for digital communications with other Line6 products and will introduce noise if it's connected to an audio input.
  13. Having a cluster of antennae close together at the back of the rack is a bad idea, and not just because it looks messy. Each antenna, although fitted to a receiver, also functions as a transmitter, albeit at a very low power level. (It's the nature of receiver electronics that a small amount of signal is sent back to the antenna.) This means that each receiver is surrounded by a cluster of additional transmitters which is bad news for RF performance. Also, as frequently demonstrated on this forum, antennae being located at the back of the receivers is rarely the optimum position for them as good line of sign is generally limited and proximity to other equipment is likely. Getting them up in the air and away from other equipment is always beneficial, even if just using the included antennae rather than the P180s.
  14. Any system that doesn't use the 2.4GHz band will work here. Sennheiser (Evolution G3 / G4) / Shure (UHF-R) are the usual suspects; other brands are available. Your local hire company will be able to help - depending on which country you're in, you may need to use a licensed band as you may not fit 10 systems in to free spectrum.
  15. The output is almost certainly current limited as the mic capsules only need a couple of milliamps.
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