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Sheriton last won the day on May 2 2014

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About Sheriton

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  1. Sheriton

    XD-v55 Spare parts

    Sontec are the UK distributor for spare parts.
  2. Sheriton

    XDV75 Feedback

    As it's impossible for a mic to feed back all of the time, I suspect what Hal might have been experiencing was simply the pack generating a high pitched whine that sounded like feedback. I recall that's a fault that has occurred before. On the general topic of feedback... The best way to deal with it really depends on the scenario. It starts with the full system design, including placement of speakers and choice of appropriate speakers with polar patterns to suit the application. That stage will head off many issues before they even have the chance to arise. That said, we rarely have the luxury of using the perfect speaker in the perfect position so some electronics are often necessary. If it's a conference type scenario - one person speaking at a time - an auto mic mixer is your best friend. Most digital desks have these built in nowadays and they're also available in external hardware form and software plugin form. They just listen to which person is currently speaking and reduce the gain of all the other mics to intelligently keep the overall gain of the system below the feedback threshold. Properly set up, they work wonders. If it's theatre - musical or otherwise - the standard approach is to mix line by line. Only the person who's currently speaking has their mic open; all others on stage are lower or off. It's second nature to those of us working in theatre but for anyone from a rock 'n' roll background, it seems like very hard work. (And it is!) Careful programming of DCA assignments helps enormously. It's an essential technique to keep background noise low but with the added benefit of avoiding any risk of feedback.
  3. I see no particular advantage of either A or B over the other. It depends a bit on whether you might need to deploy a single rack separately and whether you want to use the 1/2 rack unit blanking panel to front mount the BNC connections. I always use RF1 mode - it's far more robust than RF2 and although it doesn't play nicely with wifi, I'd much rather suffer slow wifi than mic dropouts. Be wary of just randomly turning up the antennae gain - too strong an RF signal is just as bad as too weak but the symptoms are less obvious. It may not be an issue for you, but I find the built in power distro in the AD8 really useful as it makes the rack wiring much neater and removes the need for a separate mains power distro in there.
  4. A strong transmission on any frequency can be problematic as it can overload the first stage of the receiver circuitry, preventing it from picking up the wanted signal. When you plug in the (shielded) BNC cable to the remote antennae, you're preventing pickup of unwanted nearby signals; the antenna connector can no longer act as an antenna once something is plugged in to it.
  5. Sheriton

    Line6 P180 Antenna Placement

    Putting the receivers & transmitters in the same rack is generally fine. As you say, it's the location of the antennae that's important.
  6. Wireless mic receivers and IEM transmitters can live together in the same rack but you must remote their respective antennae so that they're well separated. Anything that transmits on any frequency needs to be kept away from any receiver antennae. Some people are lucky and get away with it but I've seen more than once on here that people have complained of problems with their L6 kit that turned out to be caused by improper location of IEM transmitter antennae.
  7. Yeah I wish that too. I've seen plenty of compact cameras in which you can set the battery type too. I imagine it would only need to be a firmware update rather than any hardware changes. Having said that though, I just use the rechargeables for one show and then recharge them again so whatever the meter says is pretty irrelevant. 3-4 hours use in one go is easy but I wouldn't want to risk them for another 3-4 hours without recharging. I did at one point completely run down a set and note down what the mater said every hour but probably can't lay my hands on that data now!
  8. You could probably rig something up but you'd have to build it yourself. The mics need a polarising voltage which you can't get from a mixing desk.
  9. Sheriton

    Channels 12,13,&14 and antennas

    First things first. The Line 6 channel numbers are in no way related to WiFi channel numbers. This is a very common source of confusion. Each Line 6 "channel" uses either four (RF1) or two (RF2) different frequencies spread around the 2.4G band whereas the WiFi channel numbers refer to a reasonably logical set of frequencies evenly spaced across the band. What you've read about lower power modes in WiFi channels 12 & 13 is also irrelevant to Line 6 equipment. 5GHz is much more "line of sight" than 2.4G so wouldn't be a good choice for radio mics as they will inevitably be blocked by multiple bodies during use. I too have seen lots of comments from people struggling to use L6 systems effectively. For those who I've been able to help, it's always been user error; I suspect in many other cases it is too. Radio mics (of any type) are never plug & play - you always need a reasonable understanding of RF to get the best performance out of them. I regularly use up to 10 V75 systems together without issue, even in the presence of powerful WiFi access points. (I should note that that's in the UK; the ambient RF environment will doubtless be different in different countries.)
  10. It's not recommended practice but I've heard of people daisy chaining each antenna in the opposite direction to the other i.e. Antenna 1 -> RX1 A -> RX2 A -> RX3 A -> RX4 A -> RX5 A Antenna 2 -> RX5 B -> RX4 B -> RX3 B -> RX2 B -> RX1 B That way, you don't end up with one at the end of the chain that'll struggle. As with all things, if you go against the manufacturers' recommendation and things don't work reliably, don't complain ;)
  11. Sheriton

    Digital mic Drop out

    Reception problems are usually related to other RF sources too close to the receiver antennae. If you can't move any potential sources of interference* away from the location of the receivers, then yes, the paddles, located up in the air away from anything else should help. It's always good practice to locate the antennae as close to the stage area as possible rather than using them to avoid running longer cables but I know practicalities don't always allow this. *Mobiles, bluetooth devices, computers, WiFi access points, IEM transmitters, wireless comms packs, wireless video transmitters, microwave ovens etc.
  12. Sheriton

    Headset windshield replacements

    Can you post back your experience if you get some?
  13. Sheriton

    Headset windshield replacements

    Are these any good? I don't have a headset in front of me right now to measure but these ones list the maximum size capsules they'll work with. And they're cheap enough to have a punt even if they don't fit!
  14. Sheriton

    XD-V75 signal drop outs

    Lots of metal will only possibly be an issue near the antennae themselves if it's blocking line of sight to the transmitters. If the antennae are remote away from the rack, then metal near the rack shouldn't make any difference. One or two red bars is normal in my experience and shouldn't cause any issues. Can you change the channel of the one that's showing five to get a better result? There may be a powerful wifi (or other) transmitter nearby that's on one of the frequencies used by that mic channel. You've got five other channels to try so one of them is bound to work better. Bluetooth devices and microwaves are also sources of interference - is anyone streaming audio over Bluetooth nearby? Any RF transmitter on any frequency near to the antennae can cause problems so it's worth really carefully looking out for anything that transmits anything. Do you have a wifi analyser app on your phone? It's always useful to see if there are any really strong signals nearby that might cause problems. If you have the option to move any wifi up to the 5GHz band, that will help no end. A proper RF spectrum analyser is more useful as that will show non-wifi transmissions as well but I guess you may not have one of those. Note that the channel scan function in the receivers is pretty useless in my opinion - it only scans for the frequency scheme used by the RF2 mode so is no help when using RF1. It also confuses many users as it shows 14 channels but they bear no relation whatsoever to the 14 wifi channels!
  15. Sheriton

    XD-V75 signal drop outs

    Perfect - I was just about to ask if you had a picture of the layout! Several issues to tackle here... Dropouts can be caused either by lack of the wanted signal or excess of an unwanted signal. I suspect you may be facing both here along with a couple of other points. Five red bars is worrying and will definitely be a problem. I routinely see three which I've found to be acceptable. Occasionally four which would make me worry a bit but never five. Antennae location There's an RF phenomenon called "near far" whereby a nearby RF signal (i.e. a very close transmitter pack) can swamp the receiver's input stage and prevent it from picking up a source that's further away. If in your current layout you get singers very close to both antennae, it's possible that those centre stage may suffer. To use a backwards sound analogy, if your speakers are at head height right in front of the front row, they'll get blasted whilst those at the back won't hear as much. You solve that by getting the speakers up higher so that the difference in distance (and hence volume) between speaker & front row and speaker & back row is minimised. Same with the antennae. If they have to be "floor mounted", a standard boom mic stand at full extension will get them just above head height which is usually OK. I use K&M's rather useful 240/5 clamp if there's a lighting boom or an edge of something I can clamp on to at a good height. Those paddles' polar pattern is a bit like a cardioid mic so you can use the null behind them to point towards an unavoidable RF source if necessary. The proximity of those laptops may also be problematic if the antennae aren't currently very high up. I'd aim to keep them at least 5' away from anything that transmits. Keep an eye out for wifi access points too - steer well clear of them! Antennae cable It would be worth checking exactly what type of cable you're using. If it's something like RG58, that won't work well, especially at those lengths. There's more to speccing the right cable than just the impedance. The recommended cable is LMR195 - it's not particularly cheap but it does work. However I'd say your cables are far too long. You're dropping around 25dB of signal over that length which really won't be helping. I've also been wondering whether using two very different lengths of cable may be problematic. I've not come to any conclusions on that front though. Suggestions As per normal troubleshooting procedures, this is a case of divide & conquer. Let's tackle the interference first. If your antennae aren't already high up, get them mounted as high as you can, away from the laptops and any other sources of interference. If you're not then seeing fewer red bars, try... ...testing with the stubby antennae that come bundled with the receivers plugged straight in to the front of the AD8. That will hopefully show much lower levels of interference from sources like the laptops. It also eliminates the long cable runs from the equation. Try this with any nearby equipment switched off though - you mentioned other radio mic receivers which shouldn't really be a problem but let's play it safe for the purposes of testing. If you see fewer red bars, that's progress. Switch everything else back on. If you're now seeing more interference (red bars), I'd actually be tempted to relocate your antennae to the rear of the stage near the rack and use much shorter (<20') LMR195 cables. You're on such a small stage, distance really shouldn't be a problem. Hopefully by this point, you're seeing fewer red bars. Let's have a look at the transmitters. Switch to RF1. Triple check that they're all on RF1 - just one transmitter left on RF2 will cause trouble. Shorter cables as mentioned above will help with wanted signal strength & quality. Without actually being there to see the full set up, I can't think of much else to suggest. In summary, your broad approach is twofold: Keep unwanted signals out of the receiver - locate antennae away from sources of interference and maximise cable quality Get as much wanted signal as possible - minimise cable length, minimise differences in transmission path length Let me know how you get on!