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Spider Valve 112 MkI Logic Board repair/replacement inquiry

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Hello nice people of this forum, I'me very very new here.

 

I'm here to perhaps benefits some help and pointers about one Spider Valve 112 that had just came for repairs. The story went like this. The owner had sent the unit to the authorized service center here in Malaysia which is Yamaha Malaysia. He was told by the technician that the logic board for this particular model is not available for replacement.  Sorry no repairs.

 

He took it back and sent it to me. Honestly  I'm no expert of such kind of 22nd century technology so I gave no promise but to check out the available parts plus what the words in forum about this amp. From what I could understood there's one or two out there with this same problem. This amp seems to only display 8 block of rectangle. I also had downloaded the schematic,traced and check the supply voltages at the regulators on the logic PCB but all seems to okay. I'm not well versed about what does what or control what on the logic board but what I could generally understood are most if not all of the brain part of this amp is coming from the DSP Chip (DSPB56362AG120). At least the power amp(return) side is good with use with any MultiFX.

 

Has anyone tried replacing the DSP chip resulting a positive success? Is it possible to order the whole logic board directly from Line 6? Which I think is a better solution.

 

I had attempt to get the support ticket from Line 6 but given the amp is not registered under me I left the en devour half way. Let me know if this post is inappropriate here so I may delete it.

 

Please help Mr. Line 6 and Line 6 experts.

 

Thank you 

yus

 

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My lab mate here at Line 6 has a set for dealing with black box display.

The board would be sent to him here for evaluation to see if it's fixable.

 

There are no more replacement boards, haven't been for a while now.

 

Log a support ticket regarding options.

 

By the way, replacing the DSP won't fix it, it goes deeper than just the DSP.

Self repair may complicate us repairing it.

 

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Thank you for the prompt reply Mr. Psarkissian of Line 6. I am deeply grateful towards such dedicated service offering from your establishment. Either I or my customer will go through the support ticket process as you recommended. I'm sure my customer would rather have me deal with the procedure but we'll see how we go about it.

 

Would you also need the front input and send/return pcb sent too or just the logic board alone. Let me know which will be your highest preference.  

May you also quote me a figure so I may pass the e$$ential info to my customer. Repair/replacement + labour(time frame) + return postage you know those kind of thing. I will also past this thread link to my customer for his perusal. 

 

I'm on the same page as you on you last paragraph. Don't worry I haven't meddled with the board in any negative or unwanted way. I know the feeling of handling lollipopwork done by others. We have such kind of Macgyver too over here. I highly respect your request. I'd only cleaned the DSP Chip top part to confirm its numbers to the schematic plus the obvious look around on the component solder and pads. All looked fine to my eyes. The schematic showed DSPB56362PV120 as opposed to DSPB56362AG120 on the board itself. I don't know whether those two are compatible but as you suggested. I will leave this to none other but the experts. 

 

Thank you

yus

 

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For price of work and availability of parts, you or your customer would have to log a ticket with Custom Support.

I'm a service tech, the paperwork is done by others.

 

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2 hours ago, psarkissian said:

For price of work and availability of parts, you or your customer would have to log a ticket with Custom Support.

I'm a service tech, the paperwork is done by others.

 

 

Absolutely will do.Thank you Mr. Psarkissian sir. Thumbs up.

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I own the same beast. Last resort, throw the two boards in an oven sitting perfectly FLAT, and cook it at 250ish to "re-flow" the solder joints. This is if the solder perhaps is at fault if the amp heated up enough to cause a poor solder joint. These amps get crazy hot because the chassis is sealed. Seen it happen many times to electronics and even solid state amps. Somehow I have doubts that the chip itself actually failed. The ABS plastic and ribbons would need to be covered with an insulating material. I did this a few times as a quick fix on other electronics as shown here: 

 

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