psarkissian

Get with Line 6 Customer Support to see what your options are.

For some reason the Forum inner email/message is not coming up in my window.

Pick-up swap,... it's what Workbench HD is for.

:)

-Loose encoder switch. -Battery box circuit fail. -Slim chance of a main board fail. These are all problems that are not self repairable. It will need to be serviced at an authorized service center in your area. Check the pull down selector for locations that service our guitars. https://line6.com/find/service_center/ Are you using a Tip/Ring/Sleeve plug guitar cable? Tip/Sleeve types don't always connect properly.

What's chunky to some is slim to others. I find that Les Paul type guitars are chunky to Strat and Tele players. I'm used to all sorts. Classical and 12-string necks, Fender, Gibson, Ricki,... they're all guitars to me. I also have three JTV-69's to go with my 59's. Black 59 is nice. When I crewed for the band Iron Butterfly in the '70's, their guitar player had a '53 or '57 Les Paul, it played great. Black 59 reminds me of that.

I have Tobacco Sun, Cherry Sun and Black.

Blue line, somewhere between ~21.88 to 21.98 'ish, doesn't change til further up from there. My prior specify was from the mechanical drawings, I don't have my calipers here with me at the moment. BTW, I'm the guy at Line 6 that works on these guitars, which is why I chime in here from time to time. I'm I happy? H*** Yes! It's why I have three. Plus another four here in the repair lab as test fixtures. Like having having a near Les Paul with 23 more guitars inside. Always like the way Les Paul's played, this is next best thing to a vintage Les Paul. Nice.

For a JTV-59,... ~24.46mm at fret-12 ~21.88mm at fret-1 +/- whatever the tolerances are. I don't know if that's with or without the finish coating, no info on that either way. I know someone will ask. BTW, I own three JTV-59's,... I know someone will ask that too.

Yes, would need to pull up the fret board. Correct, shouldn't need to re-router anything, it's a standard two-way rod size that fits most guitars.

2) There a list in the online owner's manual. 4) The D-shaft slot may be shifted and not line up, using other JTV knobs. 6) Battery is needed when using 1/4" jack, and the cable plug should be a Tip/Ring/Sleeve type. more about that in the Forum's Knowledge Base. 7) "Plugging in both 1/4” AND VDI is a huge no-no? " --- Definitely a big no-no. It is not design for that kind of current pull. Too much current draw like that can and has damaged components on the processor board and VDI board in the jack plate. It's what's called a small signal audio circuit, not the same as a power amp circuit. Any vagueness on the subject is because circuit level info is proprietary.

Yep, looks like a US body with a US neck,... good. Definitely a US body, the way the back is contoured and markings in the battery cavity are the tells. Should have a two-way rod in it, since that's all we use. That rod cut-out is a bit small, it shouldn't be. But it looks like a 2012 batch of guitars. The nut shouldn't come off the rod. Sounds like the rod "was" changed out. That would be a no-no on their part. They should've left that alone. Maybe got rods mixed during the work and put the wrong one in by mistake?

"... it tightens from the body end (you have to take the neck off. " --- Shouldn't have to take the neck off, there's a cut-out on the pick-guard on US versions, for truss rod access. " I bought it used. It was NOT a factory refret. " --- Sounds about right,since we don't do full re-frets here. Nice to know that the re-fret worked. Some out there are really good at that. As for the problem with the rod, sounds like something is not right with it. Why not publish rod type? Two way rod has been standard issue here since the original Variax guitars from 15+ years ago. 1) Does the pick guard have the cut-out for the truss rod access? 2) Look under the battery box, tell me what you see in the cavity.

Yes. And they don't like me doing re-frets cause it takes too much time. So I'm purposely not tooled for that. But I am tooled up to do other fret work. So I'll work the frets or swap the neck, whatever it needs. If it's done at a Line 6 authorized service, I can find a record for it. Daddy keeps an eye on all his kitty-winks, makes certain they all get the TLC they need, as best as I can keep track of. ;) But yeah, anyone else who doesn't have experience with these is a crap shoot. Couple of owners with overly saline content in their sweat have had stainless steel re-fret jobs done. It works.

"W" in front of a serial number is the Korean factory designation. No prefix is US. US uses Hipshot tuning machines and are more hand worked and contoured on the body. The paint and coating can be more custom color. Be aware that couple of Korean guitars were modified to be passed off as US, by putting a US neck on a Korean body. Don't know how they got a US replacement neck, the guitar maker is the one who keeps close track of that. I keep close track of Korean necks. He and I keep track replacement necks for repairs only. If you get a guitar second hand and claimed to be US, then PM me here.