( I originaly published this document in the variax guitars group, However I decided to place this document here, being that this group is variax 300 exclusive in nature).  Are you having bridge problems. the importance of properly seated saddles compared to poorly seated ones that create problems, might sometimes be mechanical not electronic in origin. What I'm writing about only pertains to the variax 300 bridge assembly. I have a basic understanding of the variax 300 bridge from the two that I own. I am not familiar with other variax bridges. I often hear and read stories from variax owners who complain that they have dead sounding strings, individual string volume differences, or It just doesn't sound right etc!!. These annoyances seem to plague quite a few variax owners. At first, some owners might suspect faulty electronics, and they very well might be right. However, with my first variax 300, I noticed similar string problems, but to me it did not seem to be an electronic impediment. So I carefully looked over the entire bridge assembly and noticed that the saddles were not level (parallel) to the bridge plate on my problem strings. Thinking this through, I realized that the string saddle length adjustment screw holes on the back of the bridge plate were at a fixed point, only allowing the screws threaded into the saddles to pivot up or down from that fixed point on the bridge plate, rendering the screws unable to ride up and down evenly with the saddles, thereby tilting the saddles off level. So by setting your string action, raising or lowering the saddle height adjustment legs, depending on your desired string action, you could cause the saddles to be asymmetrical to the bridge, diminishing string to piezo pickup conductivity. I decided to refashion the string saddle length adjustment screw holes into a slots so that the screws threaded into the saddles would be able to slide up and down evenly along the back of the bridge plate, keeping the saddles level. This was accomplished without removing the bridge from the body. I just removed the strings and unscrewed the saddles from the bridge plate, temporarily taping down the loose saddles to the body. Using a drill with a flex attachment and the right type of cutting bit, I was able to shape the screw holes into slots. While reassembling, I placed small washers behind the screw heads before passing the screws through the newly reshaped bridge plate slots and then threaded the screws into the saddles. I strung it up, set the action and intonation, plugged it in and tunned it up. I started to play and noticed a significant improvement in the guitars sound and performance. This fix was at little to no cost. A fix that someone might consider, if their up to this task. So remember, that $100+ graph tech ghost pickup system you have been thinking about, might not be your only solution. Here is another bridge problem with a solution. Are some of your strings being pinched by that string saddle adjustment screw. Do you have to partially unscrew it and re-adjust it when changing strings. What do you do, try to find shorter screws with the same thread size ?, their not easy to find. Maybe try to cut those screws down to size, It's not easy to do. The bridge saddles are made from a soft alloy and the screws are made from hardened steel, you could damage the saddles. What do I do. By placing or stacking small washers between the screw head and the back of the bridge plate, you free up the space within the saddle, allowing the strings to move without getting hung up. NOTE: By no means is this text and diagram meant to be used or relied upon as (how to DIY instructions). However it might be gleaned upon as a primer. This document is only a brief overview of some modifications made to my variax 300 bridge, to help improve it's sound transmission, intonation and performance continuity.