Currently Being ModeratedApr 4, 2012 5:01 PM (in response to crossmusic)Re: Spider Valve 112 mark I. Appears to restart and then lit but blank LCD
At this point, a repair tech needs to assess the internal issue with the amp. Did the store you purchased the amp used from offer any sort of limited store purchase warranty to you when you bought it? If so, check with them to see about warranty repair coverage.
Aside from a default reset (which is powering off the amp, no controller connected-- then press and continue to hold the A Channel button in while powering on the amp), there's nothing else an end user can really do in terms of troubleshooting.
I'm concerned about the FBV Shortboard MKII as well. It would be a good idea to get that to the store and test it with a different Line 6 amp or compatible device if possible. Whether it was directly involved in the internal hardware issue that the Spider Valve 112 has is something I cannot say for sure here on the Forums. A repair tech would need to diagnose the components in person to make that assessment.
Sorry to hear about your situation. That's always the scenario none of us ever want to experience with used gear purchases.
Currently Being ModeratedNov 29, 2012 11:36 AM (in response to crossmusic)Re: Spider Valve 112 mark I. Appears to restart and then lit but blank LCD
I had the same problem with my Spider Valve 112 (Mk 1). Bought it new a couple of years ago and as soon as the warranty expired, the problems started. The preamp shuts down and restarts after a couple of seconds then shuts down again and so on. The shop said that for a wagon of money they would replace the preamp = "Buy a new amp, sucker!"
After some troubleshooting, I found out that there is a design issue on the preamp circuit board. A voltage regulator gets overheated and its thermal protection shuts it down. The cut-outs was more frequent if I engaged Phaser, Echo and such effects which probably increases the load on the regulator. Regulator surface temp was measured to approx. 60 degrees C and since there is no other cooling than the printed circuit board (which is not a good heat conductor) to lead the heat away from the regulator, its junction temp will reach critical level when loaded.
It's not a big deal to fix this problem without that wagon of money. I just added a better cooling to the regulator and now it's an amp again.
A word of caution, though: If you're not handy with soldering and electronic repair jobs, I suggest you look up someone who is. It's about a half-an-hour job for a skilled electronic technician and the component cost will probably drain your wallet for about a dollar or so. If you like to see what it's all about, here are some pictures you can look at;