Beacher

It was sent in for warranty repair and returned to the store. When I went to pick it up, I plugged in to check and it was still buzzing exactly as it was when it was brought in. Whatever they did at repair nobody checked it and neither did the store when it came back ... duh !   So ..... back for repair it went again. Lucky I have a loaner.

Update .... the amp is now in for warranty repair

kblackley ...... thanks very much for checking.

The "loaner V60" I have here doesn't buzz either ...... BUT, the store I left it with (Line 6 dealer) called me and said "we don't hear any buzz" ..... lol ... so I have to go back and check it again but at least I will have both V60's to compare (which I did when I took my amp in and showed the sales person on the floor at the time). Mine is "noticeably buzzing" triggered by the Ab. I didn't take the back off to investigate as it is still under warranty and I don't want to let them weasel out on me with the old "you opened it you voided the warranty" dodge.

I have a Spider V60 MKII.

Would any of you out there with this model do a quick test for me please.

1) Use Clean 01A Basic 

2) Volume about 11-12 o'clock

3) Guitar up full (preferably neck pickup) play an Ab on 6th string 4th fret

4) Tell me if you have any buzz?? This is a "sympathetic resonance" triggered specifically by that note?

I definitely get this on mine and it is back at the dealer for warranty repair. I also have a SV60 MKII loaner. New amp. It is nowhere near as much but this is a "slight" buzz triggered by that Ab note on it as well, so I am wondering if any of you out there are getting this??.

What I can tell you with mine ...

1) It can be triggered by 3 different guitars I have ... same note each time. Compared to an F on the 6th string (first fret) there is a definite and noticeable buzz triggered by the Ab and not the F.

2) It does NOT happen with headphones.

3) Changing between classic and full range speaker makes no difference (eliminating possible tweeter fatigue/damage)

4) Re-Setting everything to factory does not fix this.

4) Really points a finger at either something in the cabinet or speaker cone resonance imho.

Thanks in advance.

I agree with Colek98. Although I don't mind the internal Spider V tuner at close range, it is hard to see at distance and most often not convenient depending where the amp is, and even harder to decipher on my older FBV MKII pedal board, so I too prefer either a clip on and/or a pedal tuner. Much faster/easier to see. Also to note, I love my polytuners. SO fast and easy to see the entire 6 string picture at a glance. All that being said however, when I was in a music store the other day, noodling on a V120, it was great to have instant and easy access to the internal tuner since every guitar I picked off the wall was out of tune .... lol.

G10T questions.

I recently bought just the G10T and am within a window to return it and upgrade to the G10 but have a few questions as to why or why not to buy the G10?

1) Obviously ... the only way to upgrade the G10T firmware is with the G10 Bass Unit? A very bad decision on Line 6 for doing that to us? Might be part of my decision to upgrade to the G10 but not sure if it is really necessary based on a firmware upgrade path only?

2) As I understand it, with the G10 you can then obviously work the G10T with any amp? Am I correct in that? Without the G10 (and only the G10T) you are stuck with only being able to use it with a Spider V amp? Am I correct with that?

3) Assuming that you have the G10, if you don't have the G10 Base Unit on, you can still go directly to the Spider V with the G10T (as I am doing now). Correct?

4) Do charging times improve with the base unit vs using the Spider V amp?

Documentation for products like this is so important but in this case it seems to have taken very back seat? Maybe more to the point, it is back in the trailer behind the vehicle with the rest of the band equipment? ... or ... is just doesn't exist at all?? (which we know to be mostly the case already). I've figured out most of it but I shouldn't have had to figure out anything. That is my point. I know a lot of you out there have commented on this issue in other posts. I think the company designs and makes the product then shovels it into the market place as fast as possible to try and recoup production costs. Operational documentation falls by the wayside as it is complicated and time consuming to produce. I wonder if they bank on the aspect of forum users to free beta test and document as they do here? Kinda feels like is to me. Anyways, it is what it is and we just need to help each other out here as many have done already. I do feel sorry for the poor buyer who may not have a high degree of technical skills to try and wade through all the stuff in these amps. I don't know about most of you, but I feel 90% of the presets in the Spider V's (as I did for the Spider IV's) are more about "examples" of capabilities rather than actual usable performance presets? One poster in another thread said that he just erases all the presets and builds his own. I kind of feel the same. I do like the Spider V though. It is a big bang for the buck as long as you can get your head around how to work it.

Off my soap box.

In regards to the Line 6 Spider V Editing Software …

It seems strange to me, that in this modern age of technology, where associated documentation is required for understanding technical details and operating procedures, that Line 6 Spider V users are basically required to “figure it out for themselves”. I am still looking for the “documentation” pertaining to the Line 6 Spider V editing software?? It seems that the relevant users of said software have been promoted to “unpaid beta testers” …. or … am I missing something?

Good thread and great information throughout .... I echo what many have said in response here. I've had a bit of history with these Line 6 Spiders and personally, I feel that with these modelling amps you NEED to learn how to build your own patches to suit your personal taste buds. The tools are in there.  It takes a combo of skill, practice, plus trial and error. Not for the faint of heart. It comes with the territory. Like painting a picture, there are lots of outcomes that are possible.  I, like others here, have ALWAYS been able to get "something useful" out of these amps. You just have to work at it. I think the key (imho) is if you just plug in, try a few presets and hate everything you're hearing, it doesn't mean there isn't some really good sounds in the amp, it just means you haven't figured out how to get them (or more importantly what you want to hear) yet. You know the old saying "don't blame the tool" although the right tool for the job makes everything a lot easier. I enjoy the challenge of tweaking these amps, it is empowering to make something that I really like with them and I have always managed to do it.. Currently evaluating a Spider V 30 MKII, I like it but will probably get the 60 instead. A bit more appreciated bang for the buck over the 30 imho. The others upstream are too big/heavy for my needs.

Brainbow answered this (I think) but .....

Using the Spider 5 Amp directly ....

1) Hold Home button until settings menu comes up

2) On the screen "Tap Light" is third item in the list ... turn <Hold/Save> rotary 2 clicks to the right (clockwise) to select "Tap Light"

3) Once Tap Light is selected press (push) the Hold/Save rotary to engage the Tap Light Parameter settings

4) Rotate the Hold/Save rotary to toggle Tap Light on or off

5) Hit Home Button to exit ... Tap Light will now be set as per Step 4. 

The first thing I did when I got this amp was to turn that distracting blinking light OFF !!!!!!

To finish up the discussion thread ...... following Hurghanico's suggestion, I have managed to get a "reasonable" approximation of the RoboTalk using the Tron Up Filter. Can't quite duplicate it "exactly" but close enough for jazz as they say. 

Yes ..... after moving the wah to the beginning of the chain things are MUCH better ...... thanks.

Hey Hurghanico, thanks .... I checked out your demo .... very in the ballpark for what I am looking for ... I'll mess around with that mu-tron envelope follower you suggested and see what I can come up with ... !~!

Could you describe how?

Is there a way to emulate the Exotic Robotalk on the POD HD 500??? I've tried messing around to get it but just can't seem to zone in to it properly. A couple links below to demonstrate the efx.

https://ca.yahoo.com/news/arizona-nurse-due-court-charged-rape-disabled-woman-111518535.html

This second link below with Paul Jackson Jr. is really what I'd like to achieve .....

Just moved the wah around in the chain. Will need to test at band rehearsal and/or on gig. Easy to do from the pod itself. Will report back with the outcome. Thanks.

I have the Thon as well. Bullet proof but a bit heavy. What I do like is that you can use the POD by just removing the lid. Don't have to take the POD out.

Hi All .... sorry for taking so long to get back in here.

The big problem I seem to be having is that when I insert the overdrive FX (with the Wah) it is way too loud.

So I am thinking possibly that the wah may be in the wrong place in the EFX chain ?? (it is currently #6)

So the layout (left to right) in order is this ......

0) Compressor (Red Comp) - no FS - installed on all the time

1) Tube Drive - FS1

2) Analog Flanger - FS2

3) DDL / Mod - FS3

4) DDL / Mod - FS4

5) Bass Octaver - FS5

6) Wah (Conductor) - FS6 (EXP 1)

7) Jumbo Fuzz - FS7

8) Not Used - FS8

I MAINLY USE FS1 and FS3. The wah sounds pretty good without FS1 engaged but as soon as it is ... the volume jumps horrifically. Unusable. The volume does not jump horrifically when the wah is not engaged, it is just a bit louder than off. It is an obvious boost for solos etc.

Note the wah is engaged with a FS.

I can't seem to find a way to easily change the efx order?

Any ideas / suggestions???

Wondering what your favourite Wah settings are on the POD HD500 ??? I have been somewhat unsuccessful getting something I like.

Sorry .... this should have been posed in the DT forums ... will do so now.

Wondering for those that have a D112 Cab how you generally like it? Questions are ....

1) Do you find that one cab is enough and/or would two cabs be worth the investment?

2) Anyone swapping out the G12H-90 for something different with positive results?

I have a DT25/D112 and am generally quite pleased with it but wondering if others here are experimenting and if so what the outcomes are. I kind of feel the need to add another (D112) cab at the moment. I did put in a Weber Beam Blocker which is working well.