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loonsailor

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  1. Cool! Do you plug directly into the Helix or use a DI for impedance match? If direct, guitar in or return? are you willing to share the IRs?
  2. If the intent is to plug your dobro straight into the Helix, you need to make sure you can match the impedance of the Fishman pedal as well as the IR. (Eq shouldn’t be a problem.). The Fishman pedal is specifically designed for piezo pickups used in the Beard dobros, which require a very high impedance input. if you have ny success, please let us know! I’ve been plugging my RedBerd into the Fishman pedal, then at times going from that to my HXFX.
  3. I use my HXFX exactly as you describe. For 95% of my playing I’m in one of the 3-5 presets that I’ve created as virtual pedalboards, using the HX in stomp mode and punching effects in and out as needed. I use snapshots very little, because each of those few pedalboards is used for many songs and I wouldn’t know what snapshots to create usefully. So, I’m always is Stomp Mode while playing, and, when necessary, go into Preset Mode between songs just long enough to switch to a new “pedalboard”, then immediately back to stomp mode. It’s very simple and works for me. There are a few songs where I’ve needed to create song-specific presets, but very few and I try to avoid that when I can.
  4. Is the position of the speakers, especially the tweeter, the same for the different speakers relative to your ears? If you’re close to the speakers, even a few inches can make a big difference in the tone, especially the high end. Also, probably goes without saying, but if the speakers have eq or filters built in, make sure they’re both flat.
  5. I play in more than one band. In one of them I play almost all electric, but needed acoustic on an occasional tune. My helix has freed me from needing to bring an acoustic to those gigs, because in the mix (the band has three horns, drums, bass, …) my electric can sound enough like an acoustic that it works fine. Another band I play in is all acoustic - guitar, mando, string bass, and I play banjo and dobro as well as guitar. In that setting it would be nuts to play an electric through a helix. It would feel and sound totally wrong. Even in the electric band, if we go into the studio on one of those songs when I want an acoustic sound, I’m gonna use a real acoustic 100% of the time. different tools. Ya don’t pound a nail with a screwdriver. Except, maybe you do if the screwdriver is all you have because you didn’t feel like carrying a hammer.
  6. With my DAW (Cubase/Mac) I can use multiple interfaces simultaneously, so I could use the mic pre's on my Focusrite Clarett together with my guitar through a Helix. And the output routing is all agnostic as well. At least I think so. As I said, I never do it this way because (1) I have an HXFX which isn't an interface and (2) I record my guitar dry directly into the Clarett and process it with Helix Native in the DAW because I like that better anyway. Besides, 95% of my recording is one track at a time, laying down a lead or rhythm track after receiving a file with a skeleton backing track, so for me it's a non-issue. I haven't used any other DAW's much, so if the DAW only allows one interface at a time and you need more inputs or routing, then you're right. Thanks for pointing that out. But the OP didn't say anything about how he plans to record, and if it's simple enough to record the guitar dry into the focusrite (with helix native) or to use the Helix as the guitar interface, then my advice stands.
  7. I’m not sure why there’s any advantage to helix->interface->computer over simply helix->computer. The usb plug is there on the helix. Why not use it? The helix is an interface. Why plug it into a second interface? Personally, I have an HX Effects, which doesn’t work as an interface. I could plug my HXFX via the 1/4” analog output into the interface, but I find it much more convenient to plug the guitar into the interface directly, and use helix native in my computer. Works great, and gives me the hugely beneficial option of tweaking the guitar tone as the mix comes together. If you’re ok laying out the very reasonable cost of helix native (discounted because you own the helix) that might be your best bet as well.
  8. You’re welcome. Glad to hear it.
  9. You could use an HX Effects instead. It runs on DC power, so no inverter needed. If you’re using a decent amp you don’t really need the amp modeling part of the Helix anyway, or you could follow the HXFX with an amp simulator pedal (even a cheap Mooer or similar should do for busking) that also runs on DC.
  10. That's right, that's why you need the Y adapter, or a special cord. The pedal wants a TRS plug, and the Helix a TS. So, you can use a TRS cord with the R (ring) wire cut, or you can use an unmodified TRS cord from pedal to the Y that I mentioned above, and then just plug the tip wire into the Helix. Either of those options will satisfy both units. A straight, unmodified cord, either TS or TRS, won't work because it will fake out one or the other.
  11. There are indeed many posts about this. You don't need to sell or replace or solder the pedal! The problem stems from the fact that the Helix (at least my HX-Effects, and I think the Helix is the same) needs a TS connection and many pedals are TRS. You can change the wiring of the pedal, but it's much easier to get a cheap adapter cable. My pedals (a Moog and a Valeton) work with a TRS in the Exp-2 plug of my HX-FX, but in exp-1 they need a TRS-TS. With either a TS or a TRS patch cord I get exactly the same 0-100-0 behavior that you describe. So, in exp-1 I use one of these Y cables. Use a short TRS cord from pedal to Y female jack, then the tip plug of the Y into the HXFX, with the ring plug hanging loose, or cut off. Or, you could cut the ring wire on a TRS cable.
  12. There's a very interesting Rhett Shull video about building a new HXFX based rig for Rebecca Lovell of Larkin Poe. The rig includes a couple of different drives, an MXR octave fuzz, and a couple of Strymon boxes. Personally, I'm currently using my HXFX into my amp as my entire rig. I've used a few other drives, but I'm happy enough with the drives in HXFX that I don't usually bother with separate pedals. But this is very personal, and I get why she want the drive pedals that she wants. I get why the Iridium is there. Although I'm not familiar with the Deco, it seems like its tape saturation function is something that the HXFX doesn't have, though there's plenty of delays to get the slap effect. The Sub Machine, though, is something that seems kind of superfluous. Is it sufficiently better / different than the octave fuzzes built into the HXFX to make it necessary? What pedals are you adding to the HXFX to get something that it doesn't give you? How many of you, like me, have simplified life by using nothing but an HXFX (or a Helix) into an amp or direct to FRFR / FOH?
  13. I've developed a few voices under Native (in Cubase) and I'd like to bring them into my HXFX box for live use. Can I do it? I tried exporting from Native, but when I import via HX Edit it refuses, saying "8703 - Preset translation not supported, incompatible model.". I tried copying (cmd-c) the voice in Native, but when I paste in HX Edit nothing happens, and when I left-click "paste" is grayed out. I know that I'll lose the amp and speaker sims, but can't I get the rest of the voice to move?
  14. loonsailor

    Autowha

    The "mutant filter" is a fine auto-wah. Don't put a compressor before it, though. The auto-wah works by tracking the amplitude (volume) with the filter. If you put a compressor before it, there will be less amplitude variation, thus less auto-wah happening. You probably don't need to, but you could put a gain block before it if you want.
  15. The release notes for Helix Native 3.1 list MacOS up through Catalina, but not Big Sur. They do say that HX Edit is Big Sur compatible, which is odd because HX Edit is not part of HX Native. I assume that this was just a cut and paste, but could somebody from Line6 confirm that Native is now Big Sur compatible? I have an Intel MacPro, not an M1, though I expect that I'll want to move to an M1 within the next 6-9 months.
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