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About Nos402

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  1. Here's a pic of the Tremol-No laying on top of my JTV trem.The black allen screws are directly over the claw screw holes. You can see the JTV claw screws are closer together. The Tremol-No is the standard claw screw spacing I've had on every other guitar I've ever owned. That's the stock claw that came with my JTV-69 when I got it brand new as soon as they were released.
  2. Yes the screws on the claw that the springs attach to. They are Spaced narrower than standard. I discovered that when I went to install my Tremol-No when I first got my JTV-69.
  3. My other post has me thinking that I really want to install a Tremol-No in my JTV-69 but as mentioned in the other post, the JTV trem spring screws are closer together so I would have to fill them and re-drill for the Tremol-No. I've done this for a strap button before using toothpicks and woodglue but I have a few concerns here: 1. I don't know how I would get a drill in there deep enough at the right angle to drill new holes. 2. How would I make sure to position the holes exactly right? Just try and make sure the new screws looked equidistant to the old filled in holes? I feel like this shouldn't be that hard and I really want to do it but also want to make sure I don't mess it up or that it's not far more complex than I think.
  4. My JTV-69 has been my main guitar since it came out, but the only bummer for me was that I couldn't (easily) install my Tremel-No on it when I got it because the trem spring are set just slightly narrower than standard. Does anyone know if there is a reason for this? Now that being said, I've always found the Trem on this thing to be one of the most stable trems I've ever played with very little dipping of pitch when bending strings or doing double-stops and I have no idea how they accomplished this. I don't *think* the narrower spring spacing would affect that but I'm no luthier/phycisist.
  5. All the new presets are classic by default but there is a setting in each patch where you can set it to FR if you want to.
  6. Does anyone choose to use FR instead of "Classic"? I'm a bit puzzled by this new feature as it seems like isn't that removing half the "model" since you aren't modeling the original cab any more? Also, if I choose to run the XLR to the board (which would be how I always would run it live), then how does "classic" mode affect that? Do I need to switch all the new presets (which I notice are all Classic mode for the electric amps) to FR mode since I will never be using a mic on this amp? And random bonus question: Can the Spider V 120 (MkI with 2.0.0 firware) be used for bass or will that possibly damage the speaker? Thanks!
  7. I have a Spider V MkI as a backup to my helix. From everything I've read, I think that if I upgrade the firmware then there is no reason for me to "upgrade" to a MkII? Is that correct? For some reason when they first came out I thought I had read that the MkII did Full Range stuff (acoustic, for example) but MkI didn't or something like that. I had been trying to sell my MkI to get a MkII but now I'm thinking I might not need to if a firmware update will literally make them the same except cosmetic changes. Can someone confirm this? Thanks!
  8. This is so cool and interesting! I will definitely have to check these out in more details. I think I probably would have went with Vox AC-30TB or Plexi 100!
  9. 1. If you were going to just pick one all-purpose amp model to cover the widest variety what would it be? 2. Now you can add one effects set up as well (meaning anything in the Helix). What’s your rig?
  10. I often want to use just a single effect from Helix (such as just an EQ or Reverb on a non-guitar track or such). I know that in the past, Pod Farm has it's "elements" separated into single plugins (though strange no EQ element on its own). I'm just wondering if this is a viable use. In other words, if I load up Helix Native in my DAW and only have an EQ in the chain, is that a comparable processor load as just using a dedicated EQ only plugin?
  11. I was stuck at the error screen as well and the only thing that got me unstuck was UNINSTALLING HX Edit, and then reinstalling it, then opening updater and it saw my Helix again to re-update.
  12. NM, I realize now that the "hole" on top is the actual post adjustment itself. I think I got it figured out.
  13. I've read a few other posts on this but one thing that's never mentioned: Do I have to take the bridge OFF the adjustment posts to adjust them? I can loosen the set screw on the back of the bridge, but then the largest wrench I can fit through the hole in the TOP of the bridge over the adjustment pole still seems to be too small to actually adjust the pole. So do I have to take the bridge OFF to get access to the height adjustment pole?
  14. Thanks so much for this! And whoever made the helixhelp website as well. Very cool resources. I really miss the detailed descriptions Line 6 used to include about models, what controls were on the actual amp, some famous examples of amps and effects and more detailed descriptions of controls. I feel like now it's just sort of "Here's a bunch of awesome digital models...figure it all out yourself." A lot of the effects are not very intuitive, especially if you're a pretty simple player like me who mostly like to grab and go and not spend hours tweaking every little parameter if I don't have to!
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