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Nos402 last won the day on June 14 2020

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  1. So I took a chance on a third party Variax battery that was cheaper and also has a slightly higher capacity. I knew it was possibly a gamble, but It SEEMS to work fine. One quirk is that while normally charged batteries get the slow blinking light (like my other original Variax battery), this one gets the fast blinking "faulty battery" light. Is it possible that it's just because it's not an official Line 6 battery? I've only used it once so far, but when inserted it shows 4 dots and seems to have a normal duration I think (though I've never tried going more than one gig on a single charge yet).
  2. I think this mails it pretty good for me. I went ahead and ordered a QSC K10.2 but yeah, I'm not super picky about the on stage sound as I will usually be running direct, and will feed it direct to the PA. Never the less I do like to have good gear so after a ton of researching and discussing the QSC is what I settled on as it seems pretty universally loved.
  3. After much consideration, research, reading, and discussion with people who know far better than me, I've opted to get a QSC K10.2. I ordered one but now we wait for them to actually come back in stock!
  4. The only reason I wrote it off was that at one point I asked support if it was okay to use the Spider for Bass and they said they wouldn't recommend it above bedroom levels.
  5. So I play a Variax into a Helix. In some bands I play bass and sometimes Keys as well. Usually I run my Helix direct and use in-ears. Occasionally I play with bands who don't want to have anything in their monitors that they don't absolutely need so they prefer some stage amps. Because of this I've considered some FRFR options. However since this isn't something I do often I don't really want to buy some of the more expensive options which are supposedly better. I've been considering the Alto TS312 which a buddy of mine swears by but in the videos I've watched it seems super bass heavy to me (some seem to have had better luck with the TS310 but I wonder if that would that be adequate for bass). My though is that if I get a FRFR I can use for guitar, bass, or keys when necessary. Ah, but I also have a Spider V 120 as a backup rig and in my tests, running my Helix into that with no amp/cab selected on the Spider seems to do a pretty good job for guitar. I don't think they were built to handle bass though. So since I already have a guitar "amp" option for my Helix, I *could* instead just get a small bass combo. Several friends recommend something in the Fender Rumble series, and one friend says used Carvin MB15s are great bang for the buck as they are discontinued. Opinions? 1. get a FRFR for bass, guitar and keys. 2. Use the Spider for guitar and get a small bass combo for bass. Thanks!
  6. There's not a lot of details in there as to exactly WHAT the differences are. That's the first place I looked. I wish I could remember which iteration specifically talked about a Goldtop. I'm guessing it was a previous firmware version, or maybe one of my previous Variaxes (original, and then later 700).
  7. I guess I meant from a more objective/technical perspective. Like "Oh well the Special used a different wood from the standard" or such. Just trying to figure out the differences not from a subjective sonic viewpoint but an objective technical perspective. Like Is Lester 2 basically the SAME guitar as Lester 1 but with different pickups or is it a different guitar? I know at one point in Variax software there was a goldtop but I don't see that mentioned in the manual any more.
  8. So Lester 2 and 4 positions are a Les Paul Standard with P-90s while Special 1,3,5 is a Les Paul Special with P-90s, correct? IS there really any appreciable difference between these models?
  9. I might just go ahead and order some D'Addario auto trim tuners as well as long as I'm "upgrading." At least then I know the specs.
  10. I've just spec'd out an AWESOME Warmoth replacement neck but my Googling has not yet been able to tell me the correct "Tuner Hole Size" for my JTV-69. Does anyone here have the answer handy? Thanks!
  11. EXACTLY! I was convinced it had to be a Helix XLR issue until I realized it ONLY happened on my audio interface, but it's totally baffling as to WHY it would always be the Helix's right XLR regardless of which input on the interface it's hooked up to. I cannot for the life of me figure out the logic there.
  12. So here's a weird problem I can't figure out. When I have both XLR outputs of my Helix hooked up to my Native Instruments Komplete Audio 6 interface, the right XLR from the Helix is significantly louder and also has a hiss. If I turn the Helix off the hiss gets worse and is even there if I unplug the unit. If I plug the Helix XLRs into my in-ears transmitter, all seems fine so it seems like it's just the audio interface. But the weird part to me is that it's always the Helix's right XLR that does this whether it's plugged into input 1 or input 2 of the interface, so it's not something wrong with one of the inputs. I've swapped cables as well. I've turned phantom power off on the interface. This one is truly baffling me.
  13. I know this is an old thread but I'm trying to have one installed on my JTV-69 and I got the exact one linked above (the Fender two-piece retrofit) and my luthier says it won't work. The bottom piece is curved and my slot is flat so the bottom piece already sits below the fretboard instead of flush. Hopefully the one-piece shelf style might work?
  14. Well damn. My luthier says that nut won't work because it's curved and the slot is flat and it's already flush so he can't file the bottom down. I wonder if I need a different model of Earvana. He seems to think I need one of the one-piece models.
  15. Wait, what? All the JTV-69 specs I've ever seen all say 12" radius.
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