Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About jlklein

  • Rank
    Just Startin'

Profile Information

  • Registered Products
  1. Ok, I'm going to answer as both a sound guy and a guitarist (I have a POD X3 Live, but same concepts apply). -Your 15 watt amp at home will most assuredly sound different than any PA system that you plug directly into (btw, congrats on apparently owning a 10,000 watt sound system? lol). -If you like the sound with the 15 watt amp, there's nothing wrong with bringing it to the gig and have them mic it, otherwise, practice with headphones and the amp modeling turned on to get a better idea of how it's going to sound. (Fun fact, many walls of amps seen on live tours back in the day were dummy cabinets and there was a 5 to 15 watt tube amp behind them with a mic in front of it, and it sounded beautiful). -If you're plugging directly into the sound system via XLR, MAKE SURE THEY HAVE PHANTOM POWER TURNED OFF. I can't say yes or no if it will damage your pedalboard, but best to assume it would. You could also contact Line6 and ask them if the XLR outputs will block the 48Volt DC phantom power. -If they can't turn off phantom power, consider using a direct box, which will convert your 1/4" output to XLR mic level that you can plug into the sound system safely. -If your patches are stereo, and the board is run in mono, and you're plugged into the mixer in stereo (both XLR or both 1/4" outputs), and both channels are panned center, you may experience cancellation in some patches (I've experienced this personally with some effects boards run in stereo). Consider purchasing a small mixer and PA that you can experiment with at home. -Honestly, if you're running live, just run Mono. Stereo doesn't buy you anything unless your sound system is an LCR system (left/center/right) and each seat in the house is covered by a stereo cluster (one left and right main speaker in a venue doesn't count). -If you're using a stereo to mono combiner or direct box to feed the sound system, don't. You can get weird cancellations that way as well. Just use the mono output from the pedalboard itself and it will internally convert to mono output properly without any weirdness. Trust me, no one will know whether you're running stereo or mono, and most live concerts you see are in fact run in mono.(edit: if you have to use a stereo to mono combiner, make sure it's a proper resistive-combining type, not just a Y-splitter cable turned around backwards to combine 2 into 1...that can actually damage stereo outputs. Look up Rane Note 109: "Why Not Wye?" note in Rane's highly respected Knowledge Library for more on how to do this properly). Hope this helps, Jeff
  2. Hi folks, So, a question on the POD series, and maybe they even fixed this with the POD HD series...I have a POD X3 Live that I bought used a couple years ago based on Lincoln Brewster's use and endorsement of the line, and I do like the sound of this thing quite a bit. However, one thing I really hate about it is that if I recall a patch and then go to adjust any of the physical knobs, the patch setting suddenly jumps to the current knob position as soon as I move it rather than allowing me to adjust it from it's currently saved setting. For example, if I want to tweak up the reverb a bit on a dry-ish sounding patch, and the physical Reverb knob is way up for whatever reason, as soon as I move the Reverb knob I'm suddenly playing in Shea stadium. Or, if my patch volume needs adjusting and I grab the Tone Volume knob, I may get a sudden blast of volume as soon as I move it if the knob is physically up high. Did the POD HD series and/or Helix series finally figure out how to fix this? I was looking at some used HD500's as I've gotten into looping, but I won't bother if they haven't fixed that issue. If the Helix fixed it, I'll hold out for one of those maybe. Thanks, Jeff
  3. I haven't opened one of these up, but from my electronics background and looking at the button out of the slot, that recessed ring around the bottom of the button shaft suggests that it's missing its retaining ring. Basically a circular clip that goes on after it is pushed through the hole to the other side of the button assembly to keep it from popping out. If you open it up, you'll probably find it floating around in there somewhere (could shake it and probably hear it rattle around as well). You should do this anyway as they're metal and the loose piece could short something out on the circuit board. Here's an idea of what you might be looking for (there are many varieties...probably one of the open ended ones is what you'd find: Hope this helps, Jeff
  • Create New...