Please ensure Javascript is enabled for purposes of website accessibility Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

daveaphotopod's Achievements


Enthusiast (6/14)

  • Collaborator Rare
  • Reacting Well Rare
  • Conversation Starter Rare
  • One Year In
  • Week One Done

Recent Badges



  1. I understand (I think) what that's used for and that the Helix has it. If there is a "downside" is there some type of workaround that we have in the POD GO? Or do we have to deal with the results of how vintage fuzses, for example, react based on the fact that it's getting what it gets? Or, furthermore, does the POD go have an "auto" setting that takes care of that?
  2. Thank you. And I would categorize that as anything sub $200, in this case...if anything that cheap exists, anyway But the more and more I look around and watch YouTube videos, the better the POD GO looks. Sure, limited blocks and no parallel paths, but I am not missing that anyway. I never need MORE than 4 blocks, for example.
  3. I know this may be a strange thing to put in a POD GO forum, but to be fair, I am praising the POD GO. So recently, I wanted to "downsize" and get something that has a bunch of amps, and maybe something like the Line 6 HX one. But by then, you're getting into the same price range as a pod go. Ok, fine...maybe I will look at an HX stomp.'s more expensive, and you "lose" the expression pedal. I know this is a silly thought experiment, but am I wrong. Is there another fully featured device that doesn't venture into the super budget realm? As I said, once you pick up something like a TC electronic IR loader, or even the new BOSS one, then get effects (like the HX 1), you're back into POD GO territory. Point of this post? Should I just accept the POD go is great and not try to downsize and just enjoy all the amps and effects? haha
  4. Yes, I admit, I worded the title of this post to grab your attention. It's still accurate, however. Let me explain. So, if I connect the POD GO via USB to my computer and choose the audio source in Windows to POD GO, I can listen to YouTube and jam over it, while I am listening to what I am playing in the POD GO too....when I have headphones connected to the POD GO. Cool. Great. So hey, I figure....change the source to my audio interface (RODE AI-1), and connect the headphones to that. Ok, so I play a YouTube video, and it works. Try playing a couple things on the Pod Go.....nothing. Now, I am aware that the POD GO can be an audio interface, but I bring this up because right now the POD GO is on the floor. My not. So am I just out of luck? Can I have the POD GO send any signal through USB to my computer? I almost want to say no, and that it's just for connecting to the POD GO edit....but that's....wrong. I can record something in an audio program if I want. So sound DOES travel through it. What the hell am I missing? haha
  5. "Without cab emulation to PowerCab speaker emulation - Amp-in-the-Room Speaker Modeling Method" Can you explain that? Did you just mean turning the cab off? Sorry for any confusion. I read it three times and not sure what you meant haha My biggest concern (I am not the OP, but I have a similar interest) is that without the cab, it will sound awful, same as when you listen through headphones and turn off the cab.
  6., after all this time, I finally (think I) figured out why any pedal I tested sounded too bass-y. I had it in the loop, fine. No inherent issues there. Then, after reading a helpful reddit post, I realized that me having the master volume on the amps I was using set to 10, and then having the pedal above unity gain, and driving them even more with gain/distortion was just making everything sound WAY too bass-y. Has this been your experience too? Is this a revelation to you too, or am I late to the party? haha I mean, it sort of makes sense. Of course, there are some amps that "break up" when the master volume is turned up, but for WHATEVER reason, it never occurred to me that even (and especially) in real life, with a real amp, I'd never necessarily turn the amp all the way up, and then BLAST it with a pedal too. Curious if there's something else I am missing or if this reminded someone of something related, and they have any more tips. If not, I hope this helps someone!
  7. I also just realized that after looking at the frequency response of my headphones, the MDR-V6, the 2k and above are booted. I wonder if THAT is why everything sounds brighter in the headphones compared to speaker. So unless I am misinterpreting something, the speaker "mostly" is just reproducing the sound, whereas the headphones even though being well-regarded in some online communities, colors the sound, a little.
  8. I assume the headphones would be the most accurate, no? And I know that in theory, it "shouldn't" matter. But I've attached the headphones, taken them off, and tested the same through the speaker, and they sound different. And yes, I've made sure it's not "double-cab'd" (I know the FRFR speaker also, like the cabs do, but it's full frequency, right? So it should allow everything, I assume.) I mean, I suppose I could disable the cab in the line 6 pod go, but then I lose the cab/speakers. mics, and that sort of defeats the purpose, and I know can't be accurate. Is there some setting I am missing? If this doesn't make sense, or you need anything explained better, let me know. I am pretty persistent when testing things side to side and the PA/speaker is definitely a lot darker.
  9. Or is Shimmer the closest we would have to it? I am thinking about something like the JHS octave reverb.
  10. Thank you! I appreciate it. So I can assume that something like this will work, then? (and yes, I may be about that far. it depends on the setup/venue. Obviously not in all cases.)
  11. All good. I haven't purchased or done anything yet. Appreciate you trying to help.
  12. I've searched around, and I've seen suggestions of a 1/4" TRS to the same cable. So, I hear to my local Guitar Center and I try to locate them and they are near the keyboards, and they are labeled, I believe as speaker cables. Hard to say because there's no photos of the packaging on the web site. 2 things to clear up. 1. I am well aware I can ask the staff. I was just browsing, and the store was busy, and I had errands to run 2. I understand in the title I said speaker, and I also mentioned that the packaging says speaker, so....that makes sense. However, I have heard/seen other people mention that it should be an instrument cable. (which is probably the primary reason I am confused)
  13. Ok, so what did I do wrong? The only reason I adjusted the mic on the cab was to prove to myself that the pre cab/IR was working. Apparently, it wasn't, and I am glad I checked. Having said that, I don't believe anything is wrong with the POD GO at all. So.....what did I forget to do?
  14. Thank you for pointing that out. You're right. No point in using the amp out if I am not using the line out at all. I've also rethought this whole thing. I was considering putting the cable into the front of my amp, but the setting in the pod go isn't pre-amp, it's pre-cab (I know YOU know this, but I had remind myself.) I suppose I could still disable the amp, but as you mentioned, why not just use the main out if I am just planning on playing around with some POD GO dirt pedals on my physical amp and disable both amp and cab? (rhetorical question) The only question I have now has to do with the part of the manual you cut and pasted. It says "hey, send the amp to the FOH PA, and send the amp out to the front of your amp", but then if you put it into the front of your amp, aren't you "double amping"? (unless the insinuation is the amp in the POD GO needs to be disabled) Thanks for your reply.
  • Create New...