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  1. Hey guys! I own a XD-V75 system and I need to replace the receiver (had an accident with a speaker falling over my rack and it crushed it). A friend of my mine is offering to sell me his old XD-V70 receiver which he claims is pretty much the same thing only without an USB port. Apparently it has already been updated with the latest firmware and channel options, so he says that the receiver now goes up to 14 channels (rf2) which should work fine with my hand held mic THH12. Can anyone confirm this? Will I be compromising any functionalities if I use a XD-V70 receiver with a XD-V75 mic? Thanks for the help! Cheers
  2. Hey guys, I've been looking for a mic pre to run my XD-V75 so I can bring it to line level and plug it into the rear Input 1 (Left/Mono balanced 1/4" TRS jack) of my Axe-Fx II XL+... Goal is to run vocals/harmonica/talkbox through the Axe for effects/amp/cab processing (yeah it's hard to believe this thing doesn't have a Mic In like the Helix!). Anyway, while doing so I got curious about whether there was some sort of vocal processor that could handle live pitch correction like the TC Helicon VoiceTone Correct, but with a line level 1/4" output so it could also function as my mic pre. And so I found the Tascam TA-1VP... A rack mounted vocal processor from 2011 that runs on Antares' software for pitch correction (their well regarded Auto-Tune) plus mic and analog tube modeling... And of course it has the 1/4" line level output that I need for the Axe. http://tascam.com/product/ta-1vp/]http://tascam.com/product/ta-1vp/ I've been doing some research and even though the unit is a bit old, reviews from the last couple of years seem to imply that it can still hold its ground (considering the speed at which DSP has evolved in the last few years, this kind of tech could've been rendered useless pretty quick). It is certainly not perfect with very limited EQ capabilities, probably an older version of the Auto-Tune software (as it looks like it has never received a firmware update) and a compressor that apparently leaves lots of artifact in wav files when recording (not really an issue for me as I'll be using it in live situations predominantly)... But the pitch correction and mic modeling both seem to be top notch, so I figured those features could be great complements to the XD-V75's own models (which are quite different). It certainly looks like this can fit the bill for what I'm looking for (please do point out if I'm missing something that might not work for my primary goal of running the XD-V75 through the Axe-Fx), but I do have a key specific question on how to use their mic modeling combined with a XD-V75 that maybe someone that has used/owned a TA-1VP or that understands the XD-V75 on a more technical level, might be able to answer So, the way the TA-1VP mic modelling works (see page 26: http://tascam.com/content/downloads/products/546/e_ta-1vp_om_va.pdf]http://tascam.com/content/downloads/products/546/e_ta-1vp_om_va.pdf ) is that you first choose the "Source" mic you're gonna be using (meaning the actual physical mic you're singing through) from a menu list that includes 14 of the most widely used mics (Shure, Audio Technica, Rode, etc). If your mic is not on the list, then you must choose from a list of "Generic" mic categories that includes: hand-held dynamic, studio dynamic, wireless, small diaphragm condenser and large diaphragm condenser... This is gonna serve as the basis upon which all the available models will be build, so once you choose the "right Source" mic you can go ahead and choose the model you wish to sound like. That being said, my dilemma is what "Source" mic am I supposed to choose on the TA-1VP if I'm using a XD-V75?... Considering that the XD-V75 is obviously not on the list of "Source" mics, then in theory I'm suppose to choose one from the "Generic" list... But should I choose hand-held dynamic or wireless? (considering the XD-V75 is actually both)... Another approach, since the XD-V75 is also a modeler, would be to choose the same mic on both the XD-V75's models and the TA-1VP "Source" list (for the example the Shure SM58)... I'm guessing that in this manner the "shape and color" of the signal coming from the XD-V75 should match what the TA-1VP is "expecting" to receive to build upon the chosen model... But then again this is still all being done through a wireless mic and instinct tells me that if the option for wireless exists on the "Generic" list, it's because the TA-1VP probably builds the model based on more than just the "shape and color" of the "Source" mic signal (maybe there are some characteristics on the mic's response that aren't carried through with a wireless signal?) Anyway, I want to figure this out before deciding to go ahead and buy something like the TA-1VP because my main goal is still to be able to use the XD-V75, so if the fact that it is wireless is going to be an issue for using the mic modeling feature of the TA-1VP, then I might just drop this whole idea and just get a simpler and cheaper mic pre... I'm certainly excited about all the things that the TA-1VP could probably help me achieve in my live rig in complement to the XD-V75 and would love to be able to just buy it and figure this all out myself by actually using it, but I'm afraid my budget is not enough to allow this experiment which is why I'll appreciate the wisdom on this forum to help me figure this one out! Cheers!
  3. Hi guys! I'm planning on doing a Variax Acoustic 700 transplant into a Epiphone Wildkat hollow body guitar and will like to hear some feedback on the project, specially regarding the correct compromise of strings and bridge to make the acoustic models work in an electric body while at the same time maintaining the functionality of the analog electric pickups. By the way before someone tells me that it's not worth buying and defiling a Variax 700 Acoustic just for a transplant project, let me clarify that I won't be doing that... I actually think the Variax 700 Acoustic body makes a terrific guitar as is. Me and my wife (who's my bandmate) have one in our rig and believe me when I say we won't parting with it anytime soon (I can't believe Line6 discontinued such a great product)... That being said, the reason I'm doing this project is because I find myself with an extra set of 700 Acoustic guts and electronics that are just siting around doing nothing, so I thought I might just experiment with them a bit before deciding to try and sell them on eBay. So here's the story... A couple of years ago I had an accident with my wife's Variax Acoustic 700... I was loading our gear into the car after a gig and I was about to put the guitar inside (last item) when someone called to me to check on something, so I leaned the guitar against the car and went inside the venue for a moment... As you can probably figure by now, I totally forgot about it so I jumped into the car, started backing up and rolled over the guitar!... The neck was completely destroyed but the body was intact. I sought Line6's help to see if the neck could be replaced as my wife had some custom paint job done to the body and she wanted to save it, but it was too much of a hassle and more expensive that buying a new guitar and painting it again (we had to send the guitar to Line6 because they would not sell a replacement neck to us for a local luthier to make the installation and since we were in Costa Rica at the time it just made no sense economically). So we ended up simply buying a new Variax Acoustic 700 off of eBay (haven't got around to reproducing the custom paint job yet, but I plan on do it soon). Ok so now I have an extra Variax Acoustic 700 body and electronics that work perfectly well. Piezos and guts are intact so I've been toying around with the idea of using them on this transplant project. I have en Epiphone Wildkat ( http://www.epiphone.com/Products/Archtop/Wildkat.aspx ) which I think will be an ideal candidate for this project. This is a very nice sounding guitar and a great player actually, but it is also very cheap and easy to replace in case I mess it up which makes me feel confortable about experimenting with it. The guitar is pretty much a hollow body (does have a small block in the middle to support the bridge but it is definitely not a semihollow: http://www.gretsch-talk.com/media/epi-wildkat-bodyslab.6811/full ) so my luthier agrees it won't take much routing to install the guts inside (and the carving required to place the slider controls on the side of the upper bout is minimal). We also figured that since both guitars are mahogany but the Wildkat has a maple top and neck (versus a basswood neck and cedar top on the Variax) it might actually result in an improvement of the acoustic characteristics of the guitar (don't know if such tonal characteristics might have an effect on the models though... I'm guessing not). Finally even though the Wildkat is hollow and the Variax is solid, the unplugged volume of the two guitars is actually pretty similar (the Variax is amazingly loud for a solid body), so using the alt tunings on the Wildkat won't be more distracting than it is already on the Variax. Ok so far so good then... Now comes the dilema questions: (1) how do I adapt to an archt. body the Variax bridge that is obviously made for a flat top acoustic body, (2) what type of strings should I use to find a good balance between what the acoustic models need versus and what the electric pickups require. On regards to the first one (bridge) I feel like I don't wanna mess around much with the piezo saddles so I don't feel comfortable with trying to transplant them into a tune-o-matic bridge like I've seen other people more capable modders do to try and maintain the original look of the guitar on Variax transplants into Les Paul guitars. I'd rather just use the Variax's bridge as is. I don't mind altering the look of the bridge on the Wildkat but I do care about functionality and the dilema here is that it doesn't seems like the Variax Acoustic bridge can be raised to the height of a tune-o-matic as it is (which seems neccesary to get to the right angle for the bigsby to work well). The wood base piece will have to be modded or shimmed somehow so I was thinking that maybe going for a Gretsch type arch base would work to sit the Variax bridge and saddles on top of it (Variax bridge will obviously need to be trimmed anyway for the strings to be able to reach the bigsby)... Any thoughts? On regards to the strings, I don't think the Variax phosphor bronze electro acoustic strings will work for the electric analog pickups, so I'll need to use some type of electric guitar strings that are as close as possible to those so that the acoustic models don't suffer. Fortunately gauge and action is not gonna be a problem because I actually use the Wildkat for a lot of heavy chording, slide playing and even some jazz, so it is already set with a somewhat medium to high action and the same gauge as the Variax Acoustic: 0.12 - 0.54 with a wound G string (I'm using Ernie Ball Medium Light Nickel Wound strings: https://www.ernieball.com/guitar-strings/electric-guitar-strings/nickel-wound-custom-gauge-electric-guitar-strings#P02206)... My first impulse is to think that those strings should actually work fine for the Variax acoustic models because playability feels pretty similar between the Variax and the Wildkat as is (obviously the phosphor bronze strings feel more "acoustic" but we're talking modelling here so I'm guessing that as long as the gauge is the same piezos should function in a similar manner so it shouldn't affect the models significantly)... Still maybe there's a better option you can recommend?... Only thing I might add is that on a personal preference note, I like roundwounds strings and I feel like on this project where we're talking about using the Wildkat as an acoustic alternative it might bring it closer to home... But if someone can think of a reason why flatwounds or halfwounds will work better, then by all means I'll appreciate the recommendation. So there you go guys, I'll appreciate your thoughts... Sorry for the long post but it is a fun project so I wanted to be as detailed as possible on the line of though I'm following... This is probably the only scenario I can imagine where doing a Variax 700 Acoustic transplant will make any sense because as I said at the beginning, those are terrific guitars in my opinion so gutting a perfectly good one to transplant it into an electric (where there's obviously going to be some compromise) would be a real waste... And putting them into a real acoustic, well that'll be just ludicrous (ok maybe it might work on one of those old Fender Stratacoustic bodies, but then again the Variax Acoustic body is always a way better guitar than that one). Cheers!
  4. Hi guys! I'm gonna be traveling for a year with my wife (who's also a guitarist) so we're putting together an small compact rig to do some busking together on the road (I use a Variax JTV59 and she uses a Variax 700 Acoustic). We are fans of the AMPLIFi series and the 30 is certainly the perfect size. We think the Remote app is terrific, tone-matching is pretty cool and we love the versatility the Bluetooth functionality offers for streaming playback tracks and our music library. Ideally we will like to take just one amp with us so we want to figure out if we can plug both our guitars into the AMPLIFi 30 by running one through the 1/4 inch guitar input and the other through the 1/8 inch aux input using a Sonic Port VX: guitar into 1/4 inch input and then from 1/8 inch stereo headphone output into the aux input of the AMPLIFi. Will that work? If it doesn't what alternatives will you recommend for running two guitars through the AMPLIFi 30? Thanks so much for the input guys! Cheers
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