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edstar1960 last won the day on October 6 2014

edstar1960 had the most liked content!

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  1. Sorry - I got confused - in your earlier post you said "they can get it from me on request" - so I thought that meant that my repairers could contact you directly and ask for the procedure details? The local repairers are not the official authorized repairers in the UK. I thought you knew that from my earlier posts. They told me they got the manufacturers service manual and followed the bias and burn in process from that but they didn't see any other relevant procedures to perform other than what would be done initial factory build. They said it was 80 pages worth of manual. Anyway - do I need to now take it to an authorized repairer to get the final "procedure" performed OR am I ok just with the tubes changed to a matched EH pair, biased and burnt in? Many thanks.
  2. Thank you psarkissian - how can they contact you? You can email me the details privately if you prefer or communicate via my Line 6 account. Thank you.
  3. I messaged Mark on both FB and LinkedIn but he didn't reply to either message. :( Quick update. Just got my DT25 back from repairers. They say they fitted a new matched pair of EH EL84s, biased in and soaked as per service manual. They left it on without issue for a day. They didn't see any other procedures in the service manual that were relevant to fitting new tubes. Am I good to go - or do I need to get the amp checked out by an authorized Line 6 service center?
  4. Quick update. Just got my DT25 back from repairers. They say they fitted a new matched pair of EH EL84s, biased in and soaked as per service manual. They left it on without issue for a day. They didn't see any other procedures in the service manual that were relevant to fitting new tubes. Am I good to go - or do I need to get the amp checked out by an authorized Line 6 service center?
  5. True. That's interesting - what a small world. Colchester is about an hours drive from me too. :)
  6. Thanks - I also found him on linkedin. :)
  7. No - I am about an hour east of London Northampton is probably at least 90 to 100 minute drive from me. It's about the same distance as Milton Keynes. I can look Mark Wright Music up on Google.
  8. Thanks for the information psarkissian. Unfortunately, I don't live near either of those recommendations, and my local repair shop are not on your list so I guess they are not authorized Line 6 repairers. They changed over the tubes for me last time, so reading between the lines, there is a possibility that they did not perform the tube swap and biasing exactly to Line 6 specs and that may have contributed to the failure that I have just experienced. So, I guess there is also a possibility that they may be able to get things up and running BUT if they haven't done all the Line 6 specific processes that perhaps my DT25 could fail again. Is that correct? Or is there a good chance that all will be OK?
  9. Thanks psarkissian. Do you have a list of UK Line 6 authorized service centers that you could send me or point me at?
  10. There is just the one fuse on the back panel on the left hand side. It looks intact except for the black marks at one end and the black scorch mark on the glass. Can't remember exactly when I had the tubes replaced but I believe they were the factory specified tubes. I am a hobby player so it doesn't get a great deal of use. I have taken it back to the repair shop that did the tube replacement for me last time and they are going to take a look at it for me. The tubes all looked OK after the problem - they were glowing as usual and didn't seem to have blown. In fact all the lights were on and working and responding to the switches - just no sound.
  11. I have owned my DT25 for a few years now, and it has only seen light rehearsal use and the odd gig here and there. I haven't used my DT25 in a few months due to the lockdown and no rehearsals allowed. I went to try it out on Friday. I switched the power on, with the standby OFF, and noticed that it had a louder mains hum than I remembered, I let it warm up for a minute or so, then flipped the standby switch on, immediately the mains hum increased in volume almost as if someone was rolling the volume up to maximum, ten there was a slight whistle and crackle, followed by a pop or phut, and then no sound. This happened in a few seconds. All the lights were still on, the topology lights swapped when I moved the switches but no sound whatsoever. Switching it off and on made no difference. Just lights but no sound. I tested using both guitar directly in and HELIX LT via L6 LINK. No sound. I checked the fuse that is mounted on the back of the chassis and it looks intact BUT there looks like there are black marks on part of it and a tiny black burn mark dot on the glass. I think its blown. I suspect that some part has failed and the fuse has blown protecting the amp, so I don't think simply replacing the fuse is a good idea. I think it needs to go in to an authorized repair centre to be checked out and very likely repaired. Just wanted to check on here if anyone else has had a similar problem and if so, what it turned out to be? And could it be repaired? Thanks.
  12. I upgraded my HELIX LT to firmware 2.92. So far all is well and it is working, including the tuner, and even after being left on for several hours.....so fingers crossed the problem is resolved. :)
  13. Yes - you are correct - I was a little confused when Iwrote my description. Thank you for clarifying the situation with the 4 possible stereo paths. malhavok was correct - I needed to split PATH B first, so that I had an input block for PATH 2A and one for PATH 2B, then all options were available for the PATH 1 output blocks. Please note that I first tried splitting the PATH 1 output so I had a PATH 1A and a PATH 1B output block, with just a single PATH 2 input block but that did not allow all 3 Path options, it allowed only the PATH 2A option. Creating two PATH 2 input blocks, so I had a PATH 2A and a PATH 2B line displayed did then allow all 3 PATH options to be chosen for the PATH 1 output block. Thank you for your input, clarification and advice. Much appreciated.
  14. Thank you Malhavok! That fixed it. I tried moving my PATH 1 split so I had 2 output blocks from Path 1, but the options remained greyed out. When I put a split in PATH 2, and moved that split back to the Input block for PATH 2, so I had two PATH 2 input blocks, then when I selected the PATH 1 output blocks I had the choice of all 3 options. So, you must create the two distinct PATH 2A, and PATH 2B signal flows first. This was the first split path patch I had tried to create, and I had created it under 2.90, and I was sure that I chose PATH 2A+2B for the Output Block of PATH 1 and it allowed me to do it even though at that point I had not created PATH 2B. Shortly after creating that patch I upgraded the firmware to 2.92 and then went back to tweaking the patch, and that's when I noticed that I could now only choose PATH 2A. Maybe my recollection has got confused and they were originally greyed out under 2.90, but either way, I know what I need to do to set up the signal flow to utilise both A and B of PATH2. Thank you for your help.
  15. Just upgraded my Helix LT to firmware 2.92. Now when I edit a patch and select the OUTPUT block at the end of the top signal path, with the intention of sending it to the bottom signal path, it only gives me the choice of Path 2A. Options Path 2B and Path 2A+2B are now greyed out. Under 2.90, I could select Path 2A+2B to ensure I took the stereo signal from the top signal path and input it into the signal path at the bottom. Now I can only output the signal path at the top into the bottom signal Path 2A. The other options are now no longer available - why? Is this an intended update or is it a bug? Thanks.
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