Please ensure Javascript is enabled for purposes of website accessibility Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


HonestOpinion last won the day on December 5 2022

HonestOpinion had the most liked content!


Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Registered Products

Recent Profile Visitors

27,645 profile views

HonestOpinion's Achievements

Grand Master

Grand Master (14/14)

  • Dedicated Rare
  • One Year In
  • One Month Later
  • Week One Done
  • Reacting Well Rare

Recent Badges




Community Answers

  1. Maybe I misunderstood your initial post. It seemed to indicate that the Helix's built-in pedal was not switching between EXP1 and EXP2 when you stomped on the switch. If that is the issue you were having, that could be a failing toe-switch, a hardware issue that would manifest at the software level. Seems worthwhile to check it. Also, by testing in the troubleshooting mode you help ensure that you are not encountering an issue caused by global options, preset configuration, firmware glitch, or some other higher-level combination of factors. You stated that "I do not have any external pedals or foot switches connected in any way" so I assume this is referring to the Helix's onboard pedal.
  2. You probably are already aware, but you have to press hard on that thang! The toe-switch that is. Still not working... Try starting up your Helix in test mode (on the Helix - keep FS 3 & 4 depressed while starting). At least you may be able to see if the toe-switch appears is responding correctly at the hardware level. If it is, I might consider making backups and then doing the firmware update along with the full global reset again (FS 9 & 10). Try just the global reset first. If that doesn't work, then update the firmware again and do the global reset. Test the toe-switch on a factory preset.
  3. LOL, good to know that I can still receive a useful follow-up to a comment I made five years ago. Thanks! :-)
  4. Also, a good idea when you copy and paste presets (or even import them) to restart the Helix before editing those presets as sometimes the presets will go through a rebuild process upon restart, unless this behavior has changed in 3.60. Not sure if this has any impact on errant parameter changes but it can't hurt as a preventative measure.
  5. The first thing to try is to disable 'Memory Integrity' (do so at your own risk, there are security implications or that setting wouldn't be there). Many Windows users have had to turn it off though to get various devices to work with Windows. The fact that you are seeing the same issue on multiple Win 10 computers makes this one of the possible culprits. You can do this on Windows 11 (assume it is the same or similar in Windows 10) by clicking on the Windows icon and typing "Windows Security". Open the Windows Security app and click the "Core isolation details" link under the "Core Isolation" heading. Now turn "Memory Integrity" off. This may fix your problem. In the past at least, the Helix editor/driver has not played well with the "Memory Integrity" set to on. There are drivers from other manufacturers that have this problem as well, it is not unique to the Line6 software/drivers. If that doesn't work, have you tried different USB cables? If that doesn't work I would create a backup, do a factory reset, and then a restore. Make sure to restart the Helix after the restore. If that doesn't work, I would create a backup and download and install HX Edit 3.60 and the latest version of the firmware (also 3.60). Then start the Line6 Updater, make sure you do NOT have HX Edit running while you are running the Updater. Then reinstall the firmware, do a factory reset, and restore your backup. Make sure to restart the Helix after the restore. The Updater will often recognize the Helix without issue, when there is a problem with either the firmware or the HX Edit installation that causes the Helix not to be recognized by HX Edit.
  6. Use the link below for instuctions on how to use the Updater to get to the latest version of the firmware and editor:
  7. I ran an FC file compare command ('diff' for Windows) and although it is possible it didn't compare the files properly, it does show many differences in the 'FC' output between the two. Most of the differences seem to be on the same keyword/value pairs in different sections of the Json file. One thing that struck me is the following, which I did verify as a difference both in the FC output and the files themselves, don't know how significant it is but it looks like it could be although "false" and "0" might be equivalent. Still interesting that they use different text: ***** HumanSoldClnOD.hlx 1563: "@position" : 99, 1564: "@behavior" : 0 1565: }, ***** HUMANSOLDCLNODCP.HLX 1563: "@position" : 99, 1564: "@behavior" : false 1565: }, ***** Or this, the keyword/pair that occurs throughout the file. ***** HumanSoldClnOD.hlx 768: "@fs_enabled" : false, 769: "@value" : 0.3000030517578125 770: } ***** HUMANSOLDCLNODCP.HLX 768: "@fs_enabled" : false, 769: "@value" : 0 770: } ***** Interesting that the copied preset is a different size with different content. Are you sure you didn't modify one of the presets inadvertently before exporting them? Have you restarted your LT since you copied and pasted the preset. Copied presets often (always?) do a rebuild after the next restart. Wonder if this would render them both identical and the same size? I would test with a fresh copy and paste first and then immediate restart. Test the size of the two files after this test. Don't have my Helix out of its backpack at the moment or I would do some copy/paste tests myself. Was also ruminating on whether there could be a global setting that might affect the contents of the saved file such as for example, setting 'EXP 2 Pedal Position' = 'Per Preset' and then moving the expression pedal before the export. Lastly, did you do a backup and restore after your last firmware/editor upgrade? All kinds of weirdness can occur down the line without this step.
  8. I believe that the artifacts the OP was hearing were in fact due to some parameter being changed between snapshots, quite possibly on his delay; not the output block level. It is perfectly ok to change the level between snapshots using the output block. Several of my presets use this approach. As a matter of fact, it is the best place to do it if you want to ensure that you do not change the level going to, for example, an effect block downstream. Level changes made earlier in your signal chain can change the response of an effect downstream and hence your tone, not just the amplitude of your overall signal. So, for the most transparent volume changes, barring any tonal changes due to the actual increase/decrease in volume (Fletcher-Munson), an output block is probably the best way to go. Also, as @codamedia alluded to, it is a great way to save on using an extra block. With the Helix I often use a volume block and also a gain block as he does. I place the volume block right before delay and reverb so that I don't cut off my trails if I depress my expression pedal fully heel-down (0%).
  9. One way to ease into snapshots is to go to the global settings 'Footswitches' --> 'Preset Mode Switches' and set it to either "Snap/Stomp" or "Stomp/Snap". This will give you one row of switches for stomps and one for snaps, enabling you to keep working in the manner you are used to using stomps, but also have snapshots at your disposal. The ability to activate/bypass multiple blocks at one time as well as simultaneously change multiple block parameters is incredibly useful and cuts down on the amount of tap dancing required for more complex mid-song changes. If you find that you don't have enough stomp switches available in this switch layout you can always change back to all stomps. If you want to go to the next level of customization on a per preset basis, you can use command center to, for example, just set up one or two switches for snapshots and leave the rest of your switches for stomps.
  10. Maybe if you post the presets' names other users will recognize their function. If you don't feel like typing the names, you can export them as individual presets by highlighting the ones in question and then just cut and paste the names into your post.
  11. Check by swapping out guitar and cable. Make sure your level is high enough on the main volume, the 'Ch Vol' for the amp block and on your monitor. Does your monitor require line level, check output setting. Do you use the expression pedal for volume, make sure it is not set too low. How are you connecting the Variax? Standard guitar cable or Ethercon? Try testing both ways.
  12. It would be a great firmware update to add different selectable slopes, e.g. -6db, -12db, -18db, etc., to the EQ blocks that have HPF/LPF.
  13. Respect! Personally, I prefer the FRFR route, but you are far from alone with this approach. And you're right, not much more to haul, especially if you use one of the many "lunchbox" heads, or power amp in a pedal, available these days. 'Course you do have the option of just using your vocal wedges for monitoring the guitar, less to haul but you are at the mercy of the person running the board and the sound characteristics of the wedge. I always bring my own monitor (FRFR). If you find yourself beating your head against the side of your FRFR, long after you should be past the initial learning curve of using and EQ'ing a modeler properly, it is probably time to try that thang with a guitar amp. That might just be the sound you are looking for. Traditional guitar amps can definitely be easier to dial in with a modeler as the speaker and amp are already designed to get the limited frequency range and frequency response that so many of us associate with a great guitar sound. LOL, this FRFR vs. guitar amp discussion has been going on as long as the forum has existed. Seems to have gotten less partisan over the years though.
  14. Retaining the edits in the snapshot you are editing after a comparison, will depend on your global settings --> Preferences --> 'Snapshot Edits' setting. You will want to have 'Snapshot Edits' = 'Recall" if you want to jump back and forth using this method to compare snapshots, without losing your edits to the snapshot you are modifying. If set to "Discard" you will have to remember to explicitly save the preset before you switch snapshots, or you will lose your edits. Easier just to use the 'Recall' setting for this comparison method. From the Helix manual: "'Snapshot Edits' - Determines whether or not any edits made to a snapshot (block on/off, parameter control, Command Center, tempo) are remembered when returning to that snapshot. When set to “Recall,” any snapshot edits are recalled when jumping from snapshot to snapshot, and appear as you last left them. When set to “Discard,” any snapshot edits are discarded when jumping from snapshot to snapshot, and appear as the preset was last saved. If you want to save changes made to a snapshot while Snapshot Edits is set to “Discard,” press SAVE twice before selecting another. The camera icon on the home screen shows you the Snapshot Edits setting at a glance—When set to “Recall,” the camera is gray; when set to “Discard,” the camera is red. At any time, hold BYPASS and press SAVE to toggle this setting. See "Determining Snapshot Edit Behavior""
  • Create New...