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HonestOpinion

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HonestOpinion last won the day on December 5 2022

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  1. Use the link below for instuctions on how to use the Updater to get to the latest version of the firmware and editor:
  2. I ran an FC file compare command ('diff' for Windows) and although it is possible it didn't compare the files properly, it does show many differences in the 'FC' output between the two. Most of the differences seem to be on the same keyword/value pairs in different sections of the Json file. One thing that struck me is the following, which I did verify as a difference both in the FC output and the files themselves, don't know how significant it is but it looks like it could be although "false" and "0" might be equivalent. Still interesting that they use different text: ***** HumanSoldClnOD.hlx 1563: "@position" : 99, 1564: "@behavior" : 0 1565: }, ***** HUMANSOLDCLNODCP.HLX 1563: "@position" : 99, 1564: "@behavior" : false 1565: }, ***** Or this, the keyword/pair that occurs throughout the file. ***** HumanSoldClnOD.hlx 768: "@fs_enabled" : false, 769: "@value" : 0.3000030517578125 770: } ***** HUMANSOLDCLNODCP.HLX 768: "@fs_enabled" : false, 769: "@value" : 0 770: } ***** Interesting that the copied preset is a different size with different content. Are you sure you didn't modify one of the presets inadvertently before exporting them? Have you restarted your LT since you copied and pasted the preset. Copied presets often (always?) do a rebuild after the next restart. Wonder if this would render them both identical and the same size? I would test with a fresh copy and paste first and then immediate restart. Test the size of the two files after this test. Don't have my Helix out of its backpack at the moment or I would do some copy/paste tests myself. Was also ruminating on whether there could be a global setting that might affect the contents of the saved file such as for example, setting 'EXP 2 Pedal Position' = 'Per Preset' and then moving the expression pedal before the export. Lastly, did you do a backup and restore after your last firmware/editor upgrade? All kinds of weirdness can occur down the line without this step.
  3. I believe that the artifacts the OP was hearing were in fact due to some parameter being changed between snapshots, quite possibly on his delay; not the output block level. It is perfectly ok to change the level between snapshots using the output block. Several of my presets use this approach. As a matter of fact, it is the best place to do it if you want to ensure that you do not change the level going to, for example, an effect block downstream. Level changes made earlier in your signal chain can change the response of an effect downstream and hence your tone, not just the amplitude of your overall signal. So, for the most transparent volume changes, barring any tonal changes due to the actual increase/decrease in volume (Fletcher-Munson), an output block is probably the best way to go. Also, as @codamedia alluded to, it is a great way to save on using an extra block. With the Helix I often use a volume block and also a gain block as he does. I place the volume block right before delay and reverb so that I don't cut off my trails if I depress my expression pedal fully heel-down (0%).
  4. One way to ease into snapshots is to go to the global settings 'Footswitches' --> 'Preset Mode Switches' and set it to either "Snap/Stomp" or "Stomp/Snap". This will give you one row of switches for stomps and one for snaps, enabling you to keep working in the manner you are used to using stomps, but also have snapshots at your disposal. The ability to activate/bypass multiple blocks at one time as well as simultaneously change multiple block parameters is incredibly useful and cuts down on the amount of tap dancing required for more complex mid-song changes. If you find that you don't have enough stomp switches available in this switch layout you can always change back to all stomps. If you want to go to the next level of customization on a per preset basis, you can use command center to, for example, just set up one or two switches for snapshots and leave the rest of your switches for stomps.
  5. Maybe if you post the presets' names other users will recognize their function. If you don't feel like typing the names, you can export them as individual presets by highlighting the ones in question and then just cut and paste the names into your post.
  6. Check by swapping out guitar and cable. Make sure your level is high enough on the main volume, the 'Ch Vol' for the amp block and on your monitor. Does your monitor require line level, check output setting. Do you use the expression pedal for volume, make sure it is not set too low. How are you connecting the Variax? Standard guitar cable or Ethercon? Try testing both ways.
  7. It would be a great firmware update to add different selectable slopes, e.g. -6db, -12db, -18db, etc., to the EQ blocks that have HPF/LPF.
  8. Respect! Personally, I prefer the FRFR route, but you are far from alone with this approach. And you're right, not much more to haul, especially if you use one of the many "lunchbox" heads, or power amp in a pedal, available these days. 'Course you do have the option of just using your vocal wedges for monitoring the guitar, less to haul but you are at the mercy of the person running the board and the sound characteristics of the wedge. I always bring my own monitor (FRFR). If you find yourself beating your head against the side of your FRFR, long after you should be past the initial learning curve of using and EQ'ing a modeler properly, it is probably time to try that thang with a guitar amp. That might just be the sound you are looking for. Traditional guitar amps can definitely be easier to dial in with a modeler as the speaker and amp are already designed to get the limited frequency range and frequency response that so many of us associate with a great guitar sound. LOL, this FRFR vs. guitar amp discussion has been going on as long as the forum has existed. Seems to have gotten less partisan over the years though.
  9. Retaining the edits in the snapshot you are editing after a comparison, will depend on your global settings --> Preferences --> 'Snapshot Edits' setting. You will want to have 'Snapshot Edits' = 'Recall" if you want to jump back and forth using this method to compare snapshots, without losing your edits to the snapshot you are modifying. If set to "Discard" you will have to remember to explicitly save the preset before you switch snapshots, or you will lose your edits. Easier just to use the 'Recall' setting for this comparison method. From the Helix manual: "'Snapshot Edits' - Determines whether or not any edits made to a snapshot (block on/off, parameter control, Command Center, tempo) are remembered when returning to that snapshot. When set to “Recall,” any snapshot edits are recalled when jumping from snapshot to snapshot, and appear as you last left them. When set to “Discard,” any snapshot edits are discarded when jumping from snapshot to snapshot, and appear as the preset was last saved. If you want to save changes made to a snapshot while Snapshot Edits is set to “Discard,” press SAVE twice before selecting another. The camera icon on the home screen shows you the Snapshot Edits setting at a glance—When set to “Recall,” the camera is gray; when set to “Discard,” the camera is red. At any time, hold BYPASS and press SAVE to toggle this setting. See "Determining Snapshot Edit Behavior""
  10. Excellent repair video. This is bound to help some folks out, if not now, later. Looks like it was fairly self-evident but would love to know which traces you tested to make sure LED was going to get power and that the board didn't have other issues further upstream. Also, can you list the part/LED that you used as a replacement?
  11. I suppose another more remote possibility would be that different parts were used on one or more production runs and the new firmware doesn't play nice with them. Unlikely, but possible. Just seems like more units would have been impacted. Not saying this has anything to do with these failures but I would not be surprised if this kind of firmware update incompatibility pops up more frequently as manufacturers seem to be more likely these days to be forced to find alternative parts to keep their production line and assembly moving.
  12. If you use FRFR's as stage monitors what you are really getting is FOH In The Room (FOHITR). Minus any additional mojo the soundman may be applying to FOH. You are essentially playing through a miniature PA as your stage monitor. Great for hearing something from stage that is closer to what the audience will experience but not by default equivalent to what playing a modeler through an amp sounds like. Although you can get close. I think you are probably right about the subs being the wrong solution. Sure, if your band uses subs for FOH, adding them to your monitor setup would theoretically make your stage sound even closer to FOH, but that is way too much extra expense, gear, weight, and fuss for my tastes. If you have determined you are going the FRFR route, you should be able to get your guitar sound without having to add a sub. I can see a bass player perhaps going to the trouble - nope. One potential drawback of using a sub with your stage monitor is it could add low-end mud, making it harder to hear other instruments and vocals. However, PAs like the Bose towers come to mind that often do double-duty as both stage monitors and FOH, and they have subs. albeit small ones. So hey, there are no fixed rules, but personally I would seek a solution without subs. Try out a different pair of FRFRs or work more on my presets, EQ in particular. Or perhaps you discover you prefer modeling through an amp better. Maybe not the Katanas. For FRFR players who have grown up playing through amps, one approach is to strike a compromise that provides enough of that ephemeral feel thing on stage recognizing it might have some impact on the FOH sound, might be good, might not - your call (and your soundperson and audience's). Looking for that point where you are happy with the sound you are getting from your FRFRs monitor(s) and things sound great at FOH as well. Probably the majority of the FRFR users on this forum favor an approach akin to this. For FRFR users who jumped in right from the start with modeling, or for those whose ears have adjusted over time to a FRFR monitor approach, or those who are more focused on FOH regardless of feel, they may just go for their preferred FOH sound - which is also their preferred monitor sound, and may be different than, for example, that of a player who grew up on and goes for a more traditional amp sound. And then there are players who will simply never like the sound and feel of a modeler through anything other than a good old-fashioned guitar amp. Nothing wrong with that! It just doesn't give you quite as accurate a reflection of what the audience is hearing at FOH. As has been said, no matter how you end up getting there, it is key that it sound good to you on stage as well as to the audience or you will be uninspired, impacting your show more than any difference in tone (unless it is egregious). Find the right mix of equipment for yourself. Almost anything can be made to sound great with enough tweaking. Just depends on how much time you want to spend on it. Some equipment combinations and individual's tone preferences fall into place faster than others. I imagine as different tones get created with digital equipment, not only players' but audiences' tone preferences are probably changing in response to recordings and live music made with less traditional devices (e.g. modelers). We're still modeling all those great analog amps and pedals as well as using them in studios though, even if modelers have also become ubiquitous. Not all the studios have dumped their tape machines yet either.
  13. I could be wrong, but I don't think all the above is necessary. Instead, the following may apply as long as you can use the Windows installer to just uninstall the Line 6 driver: Make sure you have backups. Just in case! You want the latest version of the editor if you are on firmware 3.50. That is HX Edit 3.51, NOT 3.50. The latest bug fixed version of HX Edit is 3.51, there is no corresponding 3.51 firmware yet. The firmware is still 3.50 so you will not have to do a restore after upgrading from HX Edit 3.50 to HX Edit 3.51, assuming you have already installed the 3.50 firmware. So, first things first, if you haven't tried to roll back yet (@Hey_Joe indicated he already had HX Edit 3.51 installed), you are good. Otherwise, go ahead and download/install HX Edit 3.51. Go to Windows uninstaller under 'Programs' in the Control Panel and uninstall the Line 6 driver. On Windows 11 it is reporting as a separate item so it can be uninstalled individually. Hopefully it does the same on Windows 7 so you can remove just the driver without removing the rest of the HX software. If not, you will just have to adjust these instructions accordingly. If you have to reinstall HX Edit 3.51, there may be an option to uncheck the driver install. There are other methods for uninstalling drivers in Windows 7 as well. Generally speaking, you do NOT need to reinstall/downgrade HX Edit to get older drivers. Go to the Line 6 downloads page, in your case, 'Choose Hardware' = "Helix LT", 'Choose Software' = "Drivers", 'Choose OS' = "Windows 7". The latest as well as older version drivers are there. This will also show the last supported driver for Windows 7 as 1.96. Download it and install. Hopefully your other apps will work now.
  14. Might just not have mentioned it but also do a restore of your backup as the final step. Then let them do the one-time rebuild after a restart before trying to edit anything.
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