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HonestOpinion last won the day on February 15

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Community Answers

  1. Could the OP assign a footswitch to an FX Loop block and set the HX Effect's footswitch to momentary? Then just put the FreqOut in the loop and leave it on all the time. It looks like the Freqout's footswitch can be set to latching. Just spitballing as I don't own the HX Effects or the Freqout.
  2. Btw, you can backup multiple presets at one time into individual files by highlighting them as a group in HX Edit and then hitting the 'Export' link for presets. You can also now just run an 'Extract Files From Backup' (under the 'File' heading in HX Edit) and it will automatically extract all your presets into a nice logical file structure. Just create a new backup before you run the extract. Couldn't be easier.
  3. Changing the parameters for the 'Max Value' or even the 'Min Value' on the Wah block under 'Controller Assign' on the device or in HX Edit may get you a sweep you prefer although it does impact the upper/lower end of the range. Try lowering the 'Max Value' first.
  4. I would go for the full factory reset (9&10 on the Helix) and then a restore, given the issue you are experiencing. Make sure you have a backup first. You may even want to consider restoring the backup that was created when you first did the 3.15 firmware update, in the event that any corruption or unwanted changes have occurred in your presets since then.
  5. I'm in the US. I understand not wanting to take any risks with an amp no longer under warranty. Too bad because the TS cable might (?) be the solution. Good luck with getting this working!
  6. If you haven't already, try the following before reverting back to 3.11. Did you also do a backup before doing the factory reset and then restore the backup afterwards? The backup restore is also part of the firmware upgrade process. Make sure to restart your Helix after the restore and ensure they have completed the rebuild process.
  7. Thought I should mention, if you can't get the TRS cable to work, it might also be worth experimenting with a TS cable (single ring jack), even if it is not the same type as the footswitch the amp came with. Oh, and all suggestions should be accompanied with at "at your own risk and hopefully with an amp still under warranty", grin.
  8. Looks like you are using the right cable. Good luck with the tip/ring options. Btw, might not hurt to try the 'Type' settings there with both the latching and the momentary options, just to be thorough. I remember having a similar noise issue years ago with a Boogie amp when using an old non-Line6 modeler for switching. I eventually gave up and got an RJM switcher and that worked perfectly. More compact and less cabling, hassle, and expense, though, if you can get your amp switching correctly with the HX FX. If you have a spare TRS cable, try swapping that out too, in the event that it turns out to be a defective cable.
  9. Have you tried changing the settings for the 'Select' parameter("Tip", "Ring", etc.) in Command Center when you assign 'Command'="Ext Amp"? Also, a "2 ring" cable is TRS(tip, ring, sleeve) not TS(tip, ring). The TS cables have a single ring. What type of cable does the footswitch that came with the Blackstar use? From what I dug up on Google it looks like it uses a single-ring TS cable. Try the same type of cable that came with your amp's footswitch. Also, do you get the noise when switching your amp with the Blackstar included pedal?
  10. Have you done the factory reset after updating the firmware? How to Factory Reset a Helix Family Device | Sweetwater
  11. Are we talking about the Powercab or Powercab+ here? I assume this is in reference to the PC+, and if so, make sure you are running the 2.00.1 firmware on the PC+ as this was when L6 Link support was added. If you have the PC+ the next thing I would check would be my connection between the L6Link output on the Helix and the L6 Link input on the Powercab+. Try a different cable if necessary, a standard XLR cable, rather than an AES/EBU cable, will work in a pinch for a test. Assuming from your post you already set 'Powercab Remote' = "Per Preset", and are also saving your PC+ speaker changes between presets on the Helix. Also, although it may not be the issue you are encountering, just a reminder, although the LED ring color around the selector knob on the Powercab+ may change when you dial up a preset from the Helix with a different speaker type, the preset name on the PCPlus display will stay the same. The preset name on the PC+ is essentially just a placeholder when you use the PC+ in tandem with the Helix and the L6 Link connection. All the changes are being directed from within the preset in the Helix. Is the LED ring changing color when you select different PC+ speaker types from the Helix? Can you hear anything change?
  12. A similar request has been batted around on the forum in the past so you may want to check for it on Ideascale. I can see why you might want this. I think many users start by selecting separate amp & cab/IR blocks from jump, just to avoid this issue and retain flexibility in their preset design. The only good reason to use a combined amp/cab block is if you absolutely require the block that would be used by a separate cab/IR, or perhaps if you need an extra sliver of memory. A combined block may use less DSP than two separate blocks (not sure?). If that is the case, and you were already maxed out on DSP, or if you are already using the max number of blocks in a path, the splitting function you propose would require logic to grey it out. One thing you can do if you are stuck with one of these combo amp/cab blocks in a preset, is assign the 'Mic' parameter to snapshots. Changing the mic type results in some fairly dramatic changes in the sound of the cab. For that matter you can assign all of the cab's parameters to snapshots. This at least gains you substantial flexibility in that cab's tone between snapshots. Btw, I think a feature that allowed you to combine two separate amp and cab (or even IR) blocks of your own choosing into a single customized amp/cab block to save as a 'Favorite' might be a nifty option. Particularly for HX devices with fewer allowable blocks, such as the HX Stomp.
  13. Have not tried it myself so I can't provide a confirmation of this from personal experience. Don't know if you find a video more convincing than a white paper but here is a video in French and English showing apps that generate beats and songs from an Android tablet.
  14. I would set up HX Edit on a different computer, at least for long enough to do a restore. Make sure the drivers are up to date on the computer you have been using, particularly the graphics driver.
  15. Ah, disappointing to hear it is not working, at least on the Stomp. Good move on using a shorter MIDI cable. I use one that is less than a foot long, no problems. Still feel like the solution is in there somewhere for the Stomp with just the right combination of cabling and global and preset configuration. Maybe someone else will solve it or Line6 will offer up a configuration option in a future firmware that makes this straightforward. Good luck and let us know if you get it figured out or come across a better solution.
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