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Everything posted by edstar1960

  1. Sorry - I got confused - in your earlier post you said "they can get it from me on request" - so I thought that meant that my repairers could contact you directly and ask for the procedure details? The local repairers are not the official authorized repairers in the UK. I thought you knew that from my earlier posts. They told me they got the manufacturers service manual and followed the bias and burn in process from that but they didn't see any other relevant procedures to perform other than what would be done initial factory build. They said it was 80 pages worth of manual. Anyway - do I need to now take it to an authorized repairer to get the final "procedure" performed OR am I ok just with the tubes changed to a matched EH pair, biased and burnt in? Many thanks.
  2. Thank you psarkissian - how can they contact you? You can email me the details privately if you prefer or communicate via my Line 6 account. Thank you.
  3. I messaged Mark on both FB and LinkedIn but he didn't reply to either message. :( Quick update. Just got my DT25 back from repairers. They say they fitted a new matched pair of EH EL84s, biased in and soaked as per service manual. They left it on without issue for a day. They didn't see any other procedures in the service manual that were relevant to fitting new tubes. Am I good to go - or do I need to get the amp checked out by an authorized Line 6 service center?
  4. Quick update. Just got my DT25 back from repairers. They say they fitted a new matched pair of EH EL84s, biased in and soaked as per service manual. They left it on without issue for a day. They didn't see any other procedures in the service manual that were relevant to fitting new tubes. Am I good to go - or do I need to get the amp checked out by an authorized Line 6 service center?
  5. True. That's interesting - what a small world. Colchester is about an hours drive from me too. :)
  6. Thanks - I also found him on linkedin. :)
  7. No - I am about an hour east of London Northampton is probably at least 90 to 100 minute drive from me. It's about the same distance as Milton Keynes. I can look Mark Wright Music up on Google.
  8. Thanks for the information psarkissian. Unfortunately, I don't live near either of those recommendations, and my local repair shop are not on your list so I guess they are not authorized Line 6 repairers. They changed over the tubes for me last time, so reading between the lines, there is a possibility that they did not perform the tube swap and biasing exactly to Line 6 specs and that may have contributed to the failure that I have just experienced. So, I guess there is also a possibility that they may be able to get things up and running BUT if they haven't done all the Line 6 specific processes that perhaps my DT25 could fail again. Is that correct? Or is there a good chance that all will be OK?
  9. Thanks psarkissian. Do you have a list of UK Line 6 authorized service centers that you could send me or point me at?
  10. There is just the one fuse on the back panel on the left hand side. It looks intact except for the black marks at one end and the black scorch mark on the glass. Can't remember exactly when I had the tubes replaced but I believe they were the factory specified tubes. I am a hobby player so it doesn't get a great deal of use. I have taken it back to the repair shop that did the tube replacement for me last time and they are going to take a look at it for me. The tubes all looked OK after the problem - they were glowing as usual and didn't seem to have blown. In fact all the lights were on and working and responding to the switches - just no sound.
  11. I have owned my DT25 for a few years now, and it has only seen light rehearsal use and the odd gig here and there. I haven't used my DT25 in a few months due to the lockdown and no rehearsals allowed. I went to try it out on Friday. I switched the power on, with the standby OFF, and noticed that it had a louder mains hum than I remembered, I let it warm up for a minute or so, then flipped the standby switch on, immediately the mains hum increased in volume almost as if someone was rolling the volume up to maximum, ten there was a slight whistle and crackle, followed by a pop or phut, and then no sound. This happened in a few seconds. All the lights were still on, the topology lights swapped when I moved the switches but no sound whatsoever. Switching it off and on made no difference. Just lights but no sound. I tested using both guitar directly in and HELIX LT via L6 LINK. No sound. I checked the fuse that is mounted on the back of the chassis and it looks intact BUT there looks like there are black marks on part of it and a tiny black burn mark dot on the glass. I think its blown. I suspect that some part has failed and the fuse has blown protecting the amp, so I don't think simply replacing the fuse is a good idea. I think it needs to go in to an authorized repair centre to be checked out and very likely repaired. Just wanted to check on here if anyone else has had a similar problem and if so, what it turned out to be? And could it be repaired? Thanks.
  12. I upgraded my HELIX LT to firmware 2.92. So far all is well and it is working, including the tuner, and even after being left on for several fingers crossed the problem is resolved. :)
  13. Yes - you are correct - I was a little confused when Iwrote my description. Thank you for clarifying the situation with the 4 possible stereo paths. malhavok was correct - I needed to split PATH B first, so that I had an input block for PATH 2A and one for PATH 2B, then all options were available for the PATH 1 output blocks. Please note that I first tried splitting the PATH 1 output so I had a PATH 1A and a PATH 1B output block, with just a single PATH 2 input block but that did not allow all 3 Path options, it allowed only the PATH 2A option. Creating two PATH 2 input blocks, so I had a PATH 2A and a PATH 2B line displayed did then allow all 3 PATH options to be chosen for the PATH 1 output block. Thank you for your input, clarification and advice. Much appreciated.
  14. Thank you Malhavok! That fixed it. I tried moving my PATH 1 split so I had 2 output blocks from Path 1, but the options remained greyed out. When I put a split in PATH 2, and moved that split back to the Input block for PATH 2, so I had two PATH 2 input blocks, then when I selected the PATH 1 output blocks I had the choice of all 3 options. So, you must create the two distinct PATH 2A, and PATH 2B signal flows first. This was the first split path patch I had tried to create, and I had created it under 2.90, and I was sure that I chose PATH 2A+2B for the Output Block of PATH 1 and it allowed me to do it even though at that point I had not created PATH 2B. Shortly after creating that patch I upgraded the firmware to 2.92 and then went back to tweaking the patch, and that's when I noticed that I could now only choose PATH 2A. Maybe my recollection has got confused and they were originally greyed out under 2.90, but either way, I know what I need to do to set up the signal flow to utilise both A and B of PATH2. Thank you for your help.
  15. Just upgraded my Helix LT to firmware 2.92. Now when I edit a patch and select the OUTPUT block at the end of the top signal path, with the intention of sending it to the bottom signal path, it only gives me the choice of Path 2A. Options Path 2B and Path 2A+2B are now greyed out. Under 2.90, I could select Path 2A+2B to ensure I took the stereo signal from the top signal path and input it into the signal path at the bottom. Now I can only output the signal path at the top into the bottom signal Path 2A. The other options are now no longer available - why? Is this an intended update or is it a bug? Thanks.
  16. I hit this problem with my HELIX LT which is only a few months old and on 2.90 firmware.. I have JTV69 connected via VDI to the HELIX LT and then the LEFT MONO output connected to the power amp in of a combo amp. The HELIX LT was working fine as I set up a few patches in the afternoon ready to use at the evenings rehearsal. At the rehearsal all seemed fine as we were getting set up and then I engaged the tuner to tune up the JTV69 and it worked fine. Then I tried out some of the patches and noticed I was slightly out of tune again, so went back to the tuner, but this time it didn't seem to register the correct note, I was playing the low E string and it was flashing up as the A, and when I tried the A, it flashed up as something else. The other guitarist in the band was playing at the time and i wondered whether it was so sensitive that it was picking up his guitar playing at first. But the more I tried the more crazy the results got and then suddenly it stopped registering any notes. It just remained blank. I checked the input settings for the patch and could set was set to MULTI and the tuner output was set to MUTE. So, I decided to try the 1/4 GUITAR IN JACK to see if that registered anything, but once again it had no response. I then backed out of the tuner and tried some patches and noticed that suddenly all I was getting was the clean guitar signal and that all of the patches just had the same clean sound, and so I tried switching in some effects for each patch and once again found they made no difference to the sound, so I switched back to the tuner and found to my amazement that I could still hear the guitar sound although the tuner was set to MUTE output, and once more it was blank and not registering any signal. In frustration I backed out and tried switching sounds again and suddenly all the switches stopped working. I had blank program settings in the display and none of the coloured rings around the footswitches were illuminated and none of the buttons, dials or switches were responding. So, I powered it off and left it for a few moments and powered it back on. The patches and switches started working again, but still no tuner signal. I switched it off and on a few times and finally got the patches working and the footswitches responding and carried on the rehearsal. At the end of the evening I tried the tuner again and suddenly it was working again. Totally confused, but not sure I can trust the unit now. The fact that a few other users have reported a similar issue with the tuner is re-assuring, at least I am not losing my mind, but I hope it is a software glitch that can easily be fixed, rather than a hardware bug that may require me sending the unit back for repair under warranty. Tested some more this evening and it appeared to be working OK. Created a new patch with with dual preamps and messed around with signal flow and enjoying jamming along to myself with my new sound when suddenly all sound cut out. HELIX LT was apparently working because all the lights were on and the display showing my patch - I tried the tuner and it was working - but no sound whatsoever - thought it might be the amp so I swapped the output to another amp and still no sound. So, I just powered the HELIX LT off and then switched it back on and it was working again. Weird! So why did it suddenly just cut out like that??? Guess some more testing needed, and I can try upgrading software to the latest and if that doesn't work, I can try the factory reset. Hope I can fix it as I can't trust it if it has an intermittent problem that messes with the output signal unpredictably including no sound!!!.
  17. Thanks. I have noticed on my JTVs and my original v700 that the shiny chrome like surface of the piezo's did wear away to reveal a copper underneath. Particularly where my strumming hand rested on the bridge when muting strings during playing. Interestingly, my hands do not cause my strings to go rusty but somehow they managed to wear away the covering on the piezos - so I can only think that the covering is indeed very soft. I think that is a major cause of my ringing overtones and so I will try using fret polishing paper wrapped around the affected strings to smooth out the string ruts in the piezo surface. I will also try the copper foil around the piezos saddles to make them tight in their respective bridge slots. I have never attempted to remove a piezo saddle from it's slot - I thought they were securely placed in those bridge slots - but you have found they come out to allow you to place the foil in the slots and then replace the piezo ?
  18. On the home page it says take advantage of special pricing on JTV guitars until May 10th but when you click on the link you get a 404 error. Furthermore, when I search for JTV guitars in the UK most of the hits I get back for the main guitar stores all say "product discontinued". SO - what is this special pricing and are JTVs now only available in the USA ??
  19. Thanks for the update! Exactly how did you manage to place the thin copper foil around the piezos? I have some of this I used to shield pickup cavities from a recent guitar build, so would love to give this a try but really can't see how I could manage to get tiny pieces of the foil around the piezo saddles - Please can you give any advice on how to do this? Many thanks.
  20. Hi dietmd, Thank you for commenting on this thread and relaying your experience and demonstrating that it is a common issue with JTVs of all styles indicating it could very well be due to the piezo saddle movement within it's bridge slot as that is a unique design feature to the JTVs. I have not yet tried the cleaning saddles suggestion from psarkissian so I will try to get that done at the weekend and report back although I am doubtful it will help. Please let us know if the beeswax or alternative around the piezo saddles resolves your problems. I would love to have a definite fix for this. Thank you.
  21. Sorry to hear you have the same problem but pleased to know I am not the only one experiencing this frustrating situation. Are your piezo saddles all snug in their bridge surrounds or do they wiggle slightly? And if so - does your 1st string saddle wiggle more than the others? My saddles do shift around a tiny amount and I am wondering if that movement could be causing the ringing overtones but if so - I don't know how to fix it. I still think it's because the strings have actually worn a tiny groove in the piezo saddles and therefore no longer fit completely flush across the saddle - but if that is the case I don't know how to fix it other than having the saddles replaced. I have yet to try the cleaning suggested by psarkissian - so I will report back on whether or not that helps.
  22. Thanks very much datacommando - I will try those actions.
  23. I am a new HELIX LT owner, but long time Line 6 user with Variax, POD HD500X etc. Got the HELIX LT this weekend and have switched it on and tried out the factory loaded sounds. I have also connected to my PC and upgraded the firmware to the latest 2.82. Tonight I decided it was about time I learnt how to build a preset from scatch. Chose USER 1 setlist and 01A New Preset. The screen very helpfully tells me to "Press joystick to open model list" However, when I press the joystick, nothing happens. Is my brand new HELIX LT broken - or am I doing something wrong? Many thanks in advance for your help.
  24. Thanks psarkissian. I haven't changed the bridge pickup height or changed the strings and it wasn't a major issue before - maybe a slight metallic overtone but not too much. When I noticed it had got more prominent, I fiddled with the top 3 strings, detuning them so they were slack and then wiggling them around in the saddle groove and then retuning to pitch and it definitely made the problem far worse, as if I had dislodged the strings from their worn in groove and now they won't slot back in that groove. I will give the Iospropyl and cotton swab a try to see if it makes any difference.
  25. Yes - if I wiggle the top 3 strings across the piezo saddles I can feel them pinging in and out of a tiny groove but it's almost imperceptible to see it. Can I use something to smooth each of the saddles out?
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