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edstar1960

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Everything posted by edstar1960

  1. I remember one of the original JTV69 owners when they were first launched reported on the old forum that he had found a company that would cut a custom scratch plate for him - all he needed to do was to send them a tracing of his original scratch plate and they said they would produce a new one. I seem to remember that he had done that and that therefore they had the JTV69 template and could therefore produce others for other JTV69 owners as and when requested. I think the company was Greasy Groove - www.greaseygroove.com If you click on their PICKGUARD menu option it states there that they will cut a new pickguard from a tracing of your own one. But it may be worth contacting them to see if they still have the template for the JTV69 custom pick guard requested a couple of years back.
  2. Glad you got it resolved. Sometimes these things can be glitchy and it pays to do any updates as simply as possible with just the individual item attached with it's own interface rather than while it is connected to anything else. It says in your first post that the JTV69 was connected to the HD500 which was also connected to the DT50 via L6 link - I am not sure that was a good idea. The JTV69 connected through HD500 is supported and should work fine - I have done my last few updates like that but I have never had the whole lot connected via L6 link to my DT amp at the same time. The official Line 6 recommended approach is to just hook up the JTV directly with its own interface, which is what you did in the end to fix it. But you should be OK doing it via the HD500 - but I don't recommend having the DT hooked up with L6 link at the same time.
  3. Good news! Hopefully you will get priority treatment and get it fixed! Please let us know how it goes and what the eventual solution is! :)
  4. What I find the most frustrating when you have to report a fault, regardless of the product or industry, is the standard glib reply "well the model we have in the shop doesn't do that". Well of course it doesn't because the one you have in the shop is in perfect working order!!!! It is rife and has been rife for many years across all industries and I have had plenty of experiences where I have reported a fault and then they imply that it is just me or something I am doing because the one in the shop doesn't do it. Whether it is an electrical device, a musical instrument or amp, a car or whatever, unless you can take the item to the seller and demonstrate the problem to them in such a way that there is no plausible denial, then you will always get that response. The burden of proof is always pushed to the customer. What ever happened to the customer is always right? Unfortunately, unless it is a recognised fault then nothing will be done to resolve the issue other than offering suggestions of why the fault may be occurring just for you and how you can possibly resolve it yourself. The only way any company ever accepts responsibility or does something to address the issue is when the customer keeps knocking on the door and presenting and demonstrating the problem and asking for a solution or a refund. And that is often easier said than done and many companies rely on people just giving up rather than pro-actively dealing with issues. I am not singling Line 6 out here - I think it's true across all industries - a business cannot afford to spend inordinate amounts of time fixing and resolving issues for a small minority of customers because it does not bring in revenue. My experience of Line 6 support has been good for the most part and they always try to help as best they can when you eventually get through to someone, but, just like all the other companies, you still have to get through all the push backs and "we can't reproduce it" , "have you tried this?", "have you reflashed it?", "have you set it up?" responses first before you can start making headway with getting the problem fixed. I recommend you call Line 6 directly or open a support ticket to talk through your problem - it will probably mean the guitar has to go back to a service center for investigation and diagnosis and it may come back unchanged but it may also get fixed. Unfortunately, there is no other way, other than deciding to replace the piezo yourself and there is still no guarantee that that will fix the issue. You may want to weigh the costs up if you are out of warranty - it may be cheaper to just go for the replacement piezo then paying for it to be repaired at a service center. Whatever you decide to do, I hope you get it sorted. Good luck!
  5. Yes, I listened to the clip. I can hear the quacky overtone. That sort of sound can be caused by the string just touching something else when it vibrates - it only has to be the slightest touch that causes it to be anything other than a crystal clear clean ring. Burrs on the nut as psarkissian mentioned can do it. The string being too close (low) to the front of the bridge, or too close to the groove in the the piezo saddle. It can also be caused by a faulty piezo. Good luck with isolating it and getting it fixed.
  6. First thing to check is that you are not getting any fret buzz at all on the low E. Second thing to check is the height clearance of the string across the groove in front of the the piezo saddle on the low E, and also the clearance over the front of the bridge. Third thing to check is for clearance of the low E string behind the piezo. If there are no buzzes and the string rings nice and cleanly when played acoustically then the last thing to try is to reduce the string volume of the piezo within Workbench HD. If the string is making the slightest bit of contact anywhere other than the fret directly in front of your finger when played then you are likely to get strange artifacts come through the piezo on the modelling. If the string rings cleanly then the piezo volume is the next thing to address. If it still sounds like lollipop after addressing those issues then it may well be a faulty piezo. If you are still within warranty period check it in with Line 6 to get fixed. Good luck. Hope you solve the problem.
  7. edstar1960

    HELP :)

    The HD500 or HD500X will do what you want but you will have to learn how to use the unit and how to tweak it t get best tones out of your set up. The M-series pedal boards may be a better option for you as you already have a tube amp and it sounds like you just want to add fx and have certain set tones - you will still need to tweak to taste but I believe they are more like using standard pedal boards so may be easier to set up with your gear - you can check them out under the PRODUCTS link at the top of the page. Try to get along to a store and try them out first hand to see which you prefer and which will suit your needs better.
  8. Here they are: Status Is ON (use ENTER to toggle between OFF and ON) 1) Band Select 3) Q 2) Frequency 4) Gain 1) LOW CUT 3) Blank 2) 20Hz 4) Blank 1) LOW 3) 0.7 2) 150Hz 4) 0.0 db 1) MID 3) 0.7 2) 1.8Khz 4) 0.0 db 1) HIGH 3) 0.7 2) 8.0khz 4) 0.0 db 1) HIGH CUT 3) Blank 2) 20.0khz 4) Blank
  9. To Open a Support ticket do the following: Sign in to your Line 6 account on the Line 6 website Click on SUPPORT link Click on ACCOUNT SERVICES link Click on MY ACCOUNT On left side of screen under the SUPPORT title click on "Support Tickets" On Support Ticket screen directly under title is a link which reads "Open New Ticket" - click this link If that fails then go to the CONTACT US screen and call them directly - you will get a quicker response if you call directly. Good luck.
  10. If the JTV59 works as expected when using the battery and connected to the HD500X, then it is most likely that when connected by VDI that the patches you are choosing and the settings on the HD500X are over riding the settings you have on the JTV59. As Colonel Forobin and Leftzilla have both stated, you need to check that out first by looking at the settings of each patch and the global settings on the HD500X. If the JTV59 when connected by VDI is just resetting itself, changing model settings, or alternate tunings AND you are NOT changing patches then that means there is a problem with the JTV59. As Leftzilla suggested, first thing to do in that case is REFLASH the firmware on the JTV59 to see if that resolves the problem. If it doesn't work the first time, it is worth trying 2 or 3 times. If it still malfunctions then you need to raise a ticket with Line 6 support and get it booked in to be fixed by your local authorized repair centre. Good luck.
  11. I'm with you Charlie_Watt .... but oddly enough re-flashing has improved or fixed things for me on a few occasions now ..... there must be a reason for it like you say, such as corrupt code during transmission or writing, but there is no excuse for it happening and not being detected during the re-flash process . .... clearly when a line6 re-flash says it has been successful it's not always telling the truth, but you have no way of knowing unless you experience odd behaviour with your device. :(
  12. Here are some close up pics of the low E piezo on my JTV59 so everyone can see the clearance of the string in front of and behind the piezo:
  13. Thanks again Rocco_crocco. And thanks for posting the pic. I have ordered some mini-files so I may try it myself when they arrive. My luthier didn't want to charge me for a job which he thought would not help the problem. However, I can waste my own time and see whether things improve as in your case and for KatieKerry.
  14. I had issues with model's not sounding quite as advertised - not as pronounced as you reported but just a bit off - when I first upgraded my JTV59 to fw 2.21, and oddly enough multiple re-flashes did improve things. It makes no sense to me at all - but somehow a reflash can "fix" things. Glad that it fixed most of your issues!
  15. I took my JTV59 to my luthier with the intention of getting the groove in front of the low E piezo widened but after he had a good look at it he told me that the string had enough clearance above the groove and that there was no way it could move enough to make contact, and he thought the same about the groove behind the piezo, and the clearance over the front of the bridge. They gaps are all small but the string barely moves that close to the contact point. Seems like my piezo's are seated with enough clearance which means that any plinks or weird sounds must be coming from somewhere else. He even double checked the piezo movement inside the casing and when the string tension was relaxed it rattled but as soon as normal string tension was placed on it then it did not rattle. So I have to look elsewhere for any odd artifacts that may be affecting my JTV59. PS: I haven't put the tail piece on yet - that will happen when I next change strings.
  16. Same here. Annoying but no choice but to explain in the notes.
  17. 1-4 as stomp (or on/off for fx blocks) and 5-8 as preset select (A/B/C/D) is the default mode shown as ABCD in the System Setup screen - you have to change it to FS5-8 to get all 8 to operate as on/off for fx blocks. So short answer - you don't have to do anything to get it to operate as you want - that's the out of the box setting.
  18. Thanks Rocco_Crocco. How did you manage to widen the groove without touching the piezo element inside with a file that large?
  19. If the piezo elements are designed so the casing is used as the ground contact the surely it would make more sense that they should be a nice snug fit to ensure contact is maintained? The strings do hold the elements in place but it doesn't take a lot of lateral pressure on the strings to make the elerments move from side to side. Anyone who hits the strings quite hard will be exposed to the risk of them moving and causing a "click" as they hit the side of the casing. The other problem is that the elements are not high enough above the casing to ensure the strings are clear of the edge of the casing and they also run quite close to the edge of the actual bridge itself. There are grooves cut into the casing but these are clearly not wide enough to allow for a standard low E width of 46. Most guitar saddles ensure plenty of clearance from the top of the saddle to any fixings in front and avoid any potential contact to the rest of the hardware on the bridge. IMO this is poor design and the source of many of the "plink", "plonk", "clang", "clank", digital artefact issues we see reported in the forum. It would seem that the only solutions are those carried out by katiekerry which are to use a needle file to widen the grooves in the front edge of the piezo element casings, and possibly to also file down the edge of the bridge below the low E to ensure no contact can be made even if strings are hit hard. And for the movement of the piezo's it would seem that you have to install ground wires and then wrap the element to prevent movement which is not an easy job and which may be beyond the abilities of many. Thanks everyone for your input to this discussion.
  20. Hi katiekerry - what size file did you use to increase the size of the grooves in the casing front of the piezo elements? I guess it was pretty small... thanks. Also - did you just file down the casing and bridge under the LOW E or did you have to adjust it for the A string as well? Thanks.
  21. Thank you for the links stevekc. Certainly not a job for the faint hearted! But at least it shows it's possible.
  22. Just wondering if any JTV59 owner has actually replaced their entire bridge assembly with an alternative - and if so which one and how did they do it and did the replacement perform better than the original? Pictures too would be great. Thanks.
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