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Found 20 results

  1. I have an old POD 2.0 bought circa year 2000 which was purchased for recording on my electric guitar (magnetic coil pickups). Doing some research for when I get my self an electric violin which will have a passive piezo pickup. I understand that compared to the magnetic coil pick-ups which act as a low pass filter, for piezo pick-ups the capacitance adds a high pass filter creating a band-pass filter. So now the question is whether my POD 2.0 will be suitable for passive piezo pickup gear for violin, could not see any thing in the manual mentioning piezo pickups. I also have an acoustic guitar and blues harp which could be connected to a separate passive piezo pickup. For the violin do not want to loose the lower frequencies, the lowest string is G at 196 Hz. Also want to ensure the signal is not weak requiring the POD Output Level to be turned all the way up, leaving little room for adjustment. The outputs from the POD would either go to ear phones or the stereo line in on my iMac. Or is a Pre-Amp needed for the piezo before connecting to the POD, see that there are a number of Pre-amps available from other manufactures that specifically say they are for piezo pickups and violins.
  2. Hi, is it possible to use only the piezo direct output without modelling involved? Thanks
  3. LewisBrunton

    Change Input in snapshot

    Hi, I have just purchased a Helix and have been having great fun working with snapshots, in particular changing parameters and bypassing blocks so that I can switch between rhythm and lead tones. One thing that I would like to do is be able to switch the input from 'Guitar' to 'Aux' by means of a snapshot as this would enable me to switch from the mag pickups on my guitar to the piezo. Is this possible? Thanks Lewis
  4. Q: How do I perform a Factory Reset ("reflash") on my Variax 300/500/600/700/705? A: See the following link for the reflash procedure: Variax Reflash and Software Update F.A.Q. Q: The strings on my Variax Steel string are breaking consistently at the saddle piece. How can this be resolved? A: There may be a "burr in the saddle", meaning that there is an edge cutting into the string and causing it to break. Depending on where the string is breaking you may need to replace the piezo, the saddle piece, or both pieces. Please contact an authorized Service Center for more information. Q: I am getting a high-pitched “squeal� when I have both the ¼� TRS cable and the Variax cable plugged into my PODxt/X3 or Vetta. How do I eliminate this? A: The high-pitched squeal is indicative of an overload of the power input buffers, as the unit is receiving power from both the TRS and the Variax Digital Cable. You will need to unplug one of the cables to remove the high-pitch noise. Q: What happens if I leave my Variax plugged into an amp while using batteries (not using the power supply)? A: If you leave your Variax plugged into your amp and are not using the power supply you will drain your batteries. If you remember to turn the volume knob on your Variax all the way down, the guitar will go into a low power 'standby' mode, but the batteries will still be draining (although at a substantially slower rate). Remember to unplug your Variax if you have finished a soundcheck and are heading off to dinner somewhere before your gig. Q: I have a dead string on my 300/500/600/700 (electric or acoustic) guitar - where can I get a replacement piezo? A: Replacement Piezo pickup/bridge saddle pieces can be purchased directly from the Line 6 webstore: Variax Piezo Element Replacements Q: When I first plug it in the sound goes on and off like the power is being turned off and on and I hear a constant click...click...click...through the amp? A: The problem sounds like it's a battery issue. If the battery's power drops below a current point, even though the batteries may seem good, the guitar will cut in and out. Even if you connect the power A/B box the guitar will still cut in and out. When this occurs, you must disconnect or change the batteries. Q: Where can I get a replacement neck and/or body for my Variax guitar? A: You can order your Variax replacement neck or body from Warmoth Instruments. Q: Can the Model Select knob on the Variax 300/600 be calibrated? A: No, the Model Select knob on the Variax 300/600 cannot be calibrated. If the model knob is "out of sync", try reflashing your instrument. If you are still having problems with the model select knob not selecting the correct model, you will need to have the unit serviced at your local Line 6 service center. Q: How do I calibrate the Model Select knob on the Variax 500/700? A: Here are the instructions on how to calibrate the Model Select knob on the Variax 500/700: *Please make sure that the output from the Variax 500/700 is plugged into an amplifier or monitoring source to hear the audio beeps from the guitar. 1. Unplug RJ45 cable from guitar. 2. Turn off Power (disconnect ¼" TRS cable from guitar). 3. Turn the volume up. 4. Pull model selector knob "up" and away from the guitar body and set it to position Custom 1. 5. Set pickup selector to 4th (neck-middle) position. 6. Set tone knob to middle position. 7. Turn on power (connect ¼" TRS cable to guitar). ONCE INITIALIZED, YOU WILL HAVE APPROX. 13 SECONDS TO COMPLETE THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE: 8. Turn tone control to min and then max. 9. You will now hear a beep sequence come from the amp or monitor source the Variax is plugged into. (The beeps will NOT come from inside the guitar itself.) 10. Turn model selector from "Custom 1" through all positions up to "Custom 2" this should be timed to approximately 1 second per physical step. (Counting: "one, one thousand", making sure to turn the pot on the one). 11. You will hear a low-high-low beep when completed. 12. Model selector will now be calibrated. 13. Press the Model Select knob back in to the guitar body to the "down" position. If you hear the low-high-low beep prior to completing the entire rotation of the model select knob, unplug the ¼" TRS cable from guitar and start over again until the timing is correct. Q: How do I calibrate the strings on a Variax Bass 700/705? A: To Activate String Calibration Mode: 1.Press down and hold the VOLUME knob, then power up the bass as follows: a.plug in a TRS cable connected to a powered XPS power supply, or b.plug in a VDI cable which is connected to a powered Bass PODxt Live. 2.The LED on the bass will appear to be orange or red (not green - if the LED is green, try again). Release the VOLUME knob after confirming that the light turned on orange/red.*** *** Note: If the light does not light up orange/red, make sure that you are able to press down on the Volume knob like a button. If it does not feel like a button, or if the knob does not travel down enough because it is to close to the pickguard, you should try removing the knob and pressing down on the Volume stem. In String Calibration Mode, all modeling is bypassed and the level of each string can be adjusted individually. To confirm you're in String Calibration Mode, listen to several Models, including a Synth Model; they should all sound the same: direct piezo. Important Note: As per the instructions below, the BLEND knob is used to adjust the volume of each string. The BLEND knob has a center detent, and that detent equals the Factory level volume for each selected string. You should adjust string levels from the center detent as a reference. Boosting levels too much may result in distortion, which is not good. For best results, listen to all strings and determine which ones may be too loud or too soft, then adjust accordingly, leaving the other strings at their detent levels. To Calibrate Individual Strings: (steps 5a & 5b for 5-string only) *After successfully powering up in String Calibration Mode, monitor the Variax Bass in the usual way, with the Volume knob at max, plugged into a bass amp, PODxt Live, etc. 1a.Rotate MODEL SELECT knob to the 1st Model, VinJ, to select the 1st string (G). 1b.Turn BLEND knob up or down to balance the G string level with the other strings. 2a.Rotate MODEL SELECT knob to the 2nd Model, ModJ, to select the 2nd string (D). 2b.Turn BLEND knob up or down to balance the D string level with the other strings. 3a.Rotate MODEL SELECT knob to the 3rd Model, PreBass, to select the 3rd string (A). 3b.Turn BLEND knob up or down to balance the A string level with the other strings. 4a.Rotate MODEL SELECT knob to the 4th Model, Manta, to select the 4th string (E). 4b.Turn BLEND knob up or down to balance the E string level with the other strings. 5a.Rotate MODEL SELECT knob to the 5th Model, Clang, to select the 5th string ( B). 5b.Turn BLEND knob up or down to balance the B string level with the other strings. When all strings sound in balance, press down on the MODEL SELECT knob to exit String Calibration Mode. The LED will turn green and your level changes will be saved. * Rotate the MODEL SELECT knob to load a Model and return to normal operation
  5. Attention all you two-voice-at-the-same-time-junkies. Here are some alternatives for you. They are derived from Mama Bear. I used Logic Pro's Impulse Response Utility, they are all 32-bit (recorded at 24 and converted) 48K (recorded that way NOT converted) 2048 (a couple are 2047 or 2046, they work the same, it's just really hard to crop exactly 2048 in that clunky program) IRs. All of them work in Helix. I tested them. Here's the thing. Mama Bear makes you not only choose the model, but the input device. I chose the setting that matched my PowerBridge, with EQ flat, captured all the IRs 100% wet (of course), and named them in a manner that should make total sense (ros means rosewood, mah means mahogany, etc. let me know if you can't figure the name of one of them or just download the Mama Bear manual). The number at the front is the number of the model in that manual. A few really cool and different ones are the Gypsy Jazz, Archtop Jazz and resonator models. Very surprising. What surprises me even more is that even though they were made with the "wrong" input selected for a "real" acoustic guitar, they seem to work great in that way! I tried some with my Crowdster and they worked really well. More subtle, I think, than the Fishman Aura ones floating around, and you may like those Fishman ones better (for certain things I think I still do). I will make a sample video when I can, and will probably capture another set with the under-saddle input circuitry selected to see if it works better with acoustic guitars. I attached a zip file if you want as well. same files as the link above. 2 things. 1. Let me know what you think and if they are useful and 2. post a ridiculously overstated compliment right here if you download them. Something like "Peter Hamm is the most amazing human that has ever lived and I want to be like him when I grow up", you know... something like that to make me feel good about myself. Mama_Bear_IRs.zip
  6. Clang tone, a subtle ringing pitched sound caused by the longitudinal wave travelling along the string, is a phenomenon inherent to all vibrating tensioned strings. Piezos and microphones can pick up clang tone, but magnetic pickups will not. Variables that may exacerbate clang tone include: · piezo saddles that are not properly seated · playing techniques · high-gain amps or high-gain amp model usage · the strings themselves · the individual composition of the guitar · the setup of the guitar or any combination of these contributors. As such, there is no one-size-fits-all way to address the clang tone phenomenon. With Variax being a piezo-based guitar, we’ve built filters into the firmware to address clang tone. We have recently reviewed these filters and have come to the conclusion that they are already optimized, and further adjustments to the filters would not be beneficial. Each case of clang tone is unique, so we cannot guarantee that any or all of the actions below, when performed by Line 6-authorized service technicians or a luthier, will result in addressing clang tone: · Running the latest firmware (v2.22 or newer) · Replacing strings · Using at least a .010 gauge string set. · Cleaning out the cutout in the saddle where the piezo element sits (use pot/fader cleaner, not WD40) · Replacing piezos (available at www.FullCompass.com, part number 11-00-0010) If none of these actions resolve the issue, please contact Line 6 support at www.Line6.com/support, detailing your actions taken, if any.
  7. I got my JTV59 soon after they were first released - probably within 6 months - and I have used it regularly but as I am a hobby player it has probably only been played on average about 3 to 4 hours a week over last 6 years, and there have probably been weeks at a time when it has not been played. Bottom line is it has not been heavily used like a professional instrument would have been in that time. I noticed that the tops of the piezo's on the low 3 strings seemed to have a copper colour reflection and looked a bit dull and so I got out a magnifying glass and had a good look at them. I could see that the silver covering had been completely worn away, showing a copper and metallic inner layer on the crowns of the piezo's. When I moved the string out of the slots, I could see that the string windings had left an impression behind in the groove on the top of the piezo. I rest my hand on the bridge when I play but I know that I do not sweat acid as my strings never rust and last for weeks, so the only thing coming in contact with the top of the piezo's is the skin on the side of my hand. That skin is not made of sandpaper and I can't see how that contact could cause the covering of the piezo to wear away in that way - even if I spent weeks just rubbing the top of a piezo with my finger I would not expect any material to get worn away. Also, I can't see how the string windings of the LOW E could cause an impression on the surface of the piezo. Just how soft are they? My piezo's appear to be working perfectly well - although all models seem to have a metallic overtone that I have never managed to remove regardless of what I have tried - sometimes I have reduced the metallic overtone but never eliminated it. The plain strings have also bitten into the body of the piezos which may explain why they sometimes don't ring cleanly on the modelled sounds. I am concerned that the strings biting into the piezos may be the cause of the metallic overtones I hear on the models and would love to resolve that if I can - but I can only think the solution would be to file out the grooves which would only be temporary because as soon as I restrung the guitar the new strings would start creating new grooves. I am also concerned that eventually this gradual wearing away will cause the piezos to fail at some point. What are the piezos covered with? Is it normal that this covering should wear away just from skin contact? Remember I don't sweat acid and never have problems with strings rusting or going dull quickly. Is it normal that the strings bite into the piezos and create their own grooves? Although certainly that must create problems when changing string type or gauge because if the new wound strings don't match the existing grooves then artefacts will get picked up and transmitted through to the modelled sounds? Maybe that is why the metallic overtone on mine has got worse over the years? Each string change contributing to the problem? I am attaching a picture taken using the magnifying glass and my mobile phone for everyone to see the problem. Although I have to reduce it's original size due to the file size restriction - I only have 339 KB left and the image is 1.7 MB ! Hopefully it will be good enough to demonstrate the problem.
  8. Hi fellow variax freaks, I have a conundrum, and wonder if anyone may be in a position to help out in return for some unwanted piezos from Variax 300 and 600 - see piezo details below. *** I enquired at a local (Australian) Line 6 distributor regarding buying a jackplate assembly for a newly purchased second hand vaxplant, which has the original variax 300 jackplate assembly, (which requires surgical precision to get the little rubber boot provided to cover the RJ45 connection), and I figure since I already have two other vaxplants, I may as well buy two, so I have a spare. I already bought two, (around three years ago), for less than $30AUD each, though as it turned out, (legacy version no longer available), they were the bass versions, which are interchangable with the 300-700 series (with a little chisel handiwork). See link.. http://www.fullcompass.com/prod/218353-Line-6-50-04-0181-4 Yesterday, the local supplier quoted me $100 each, and they would be for the JTV69 model version - apparently also interchangable....(?) So, I'm a little old fashioned, in so much as I'm not really that interested in lining people's pockets in arbitrary ways, such as this kind of price hike would suggest is occurring, and it would appear I can't order from Full Compass, cos I don't reside in the requisite 50-odd states.... So, it brings me to this random, weirdo request for someone who may may fancy some 2nd hand L R Baggs piezos (14 in total - (new RRP circa $13US each - http://www.fullcompass.com/prod/114557-Line-6-11-11-0001 ), worth around a hunjee in anyone's terms, in exchange for acquiring a couple of the jackplate assemblies, and sending them to me in Australia. I'm happy to despatch first, via registered post, and send you an email showing tracking information. In fact, I have other hardware, eg unused variax 300/600 bits I could throw into the equation also, just to inspire some mutually satisfying trans-global weirdness. ***I upgraded to Ghosts while doing transplants, and have unwanted (but still fully functioning when removed), L R Baggs piezos - a total of 14, including 2 brand new, unused, that I bought as spares. I initially thought that two piezos were failing in a second hand 300 that I bought, and upon installing the new graphtechs, while I did a transplant, the problem disappeared for a short while, but soon returned. The first E and B piezos take some time (15 minutes) to wake up, after the variax is plugged in. They then become fully operational, and because the same problem still exists, it must be a problem with the PCB, not the piezos. I get around it, by plugging it in, while I continue my setup at a gig, and as such is a non-issue. Yours, in weirdness, Ian.
  9. Clean piezo signal from JTV Idea Actions JTV guitars have a great option - to play with modelled sound or to use real pickups ("mags"). It would be useful to have the same opportunity for piezo pickups - to play with clean piezo sound without modelling You can vote here: http://line6.ideascale.com/a/dtd/Clean-piezo-signal-from-JTV/515946-23508
  10. The issue I'm having with my JTV-89F, is that when my modelling function is turned on, several of the strings do not respond properly and do not have consistent output. I can assume this is an issue with the piezo. Is there a way to reset the piezo to respond properly? I don't have a reason why this happened as it worked one day and then the next, not so much. I have searched for a solution but haven't found a resource that pertains specifically to my problem. Any thoughts? Thanks \m/
  11. Hi. On my Variax 600 the tone of the G-String temporary fades away to 10% and crackles. If I hit the bridge with my palm several times and/or let the string slap hard everything can be fixed and the tone reanimates. I know there are problems described with sweat and dirt, polluting the piezo. Also there are issues with grounding or loose cable-connections. Can somebody please give me a hint or provide some links so I can figure out some solutions?
  12. Just wondering if any JTV59 owner has actually replaced their entire bridge assembly with an alternative - and if so which one and how did they do it and did the replacement perform better than the original? Pictures too would be great. Thanks.
  13. I have seen several JTV59 owners report the problem of the piezo elements moving within the saddle casing of the JTV59 bridge and several people have reported fixing it by applying glue or wrapping plumbers ptfe tape around the piezo. I can see that my piezo elements move just by tugging on each string laterally just in front of the bridge, so I would like to know the best way to address this problem and exactly how to fix it. I have never taken the bridge apart so have no idea how the piezo elements are fixed in or how they come out. So please could anyone that has hit this problem and addressed it, add their solution with detailed steps to this thread? That way anyone that hits the problem in future will be able to easily find the suggested solutions all in one place. Thanks in advance everyone! :)
  14. just picked up my new jtv-89f today, got home. plugged it in and the A-string piezo pickup is not working, anyone have that problem?
  15. I think I may end up returning this 59 after all. There's a strange harmonic "ping" or "tang" sound on the low E string, especially on the frets from 5 down to open string. Very harsh and digital sounding. Extremely noticeable on the single coil tones, but even shows up on the humbucker models as well. You can actually hear it a little even with the mags, so I can only assume it's something with the piezo saddle and bridge. Sympathetic vibrations? Voodoo? Anyways, I can't imagine playing this thing live and having that sound assaulting the audience. Suggestions before I make the short drive to Guitar Center to return it would be great. Guitar plays like a dream with no fret buzz, but man, I can't take that sound. Even my wife can hear something is weird with it. I'm going to change the E string and see if that helps and look the saddle over while I have it apart, but if you guys have had this issue or heard of it, please shoot me some links or suggestions. I found a lot of issues with folks with the 69, but not much with the 59. Thanks.
  16. I have a JTV-89 (korean - stoptail) running 2.0 firmware. Strung with DR Pure blues 9's. I don't play metal so this isn't the classic palm muting scenario, but I just have a habit of resting my hand across the bridge saddles when I play (pick or fingers). This results in the occasional pop and click at random when the modelling is turned on. I am not actively putting pressure on the saddles, it's just a comfortable place to rest hand that developed over years of sitting on a couch with a les paul. The further away I keep my right hand from the bridge the less it happens but it's still annoying. I have tried lowering the global string volume to -3db and -6db but neither made the problem go away. Are the piezos that sensitive to direct downward pressure? Any info would be helpful. Problem number 2: I'm a bass player. Problem number 3: I like to occasionally slap/pop on a guitar as if I would on a bass. The modeling system REALLY doesn't work with this technique. The mags work fine. Again, I suspect it is an issue of the direction of the force. All the modelling seems to pick up are the harmonics, very little fundemental and no attack. It is an interesting phenomenon to me because I have an NS CR4 electric upright wich also uses a piezo system but has a variable control for how the system deals with attack (bowed or pizz). Since guitars largely aren't designed for this sort of anything perhaps there should be no expectation that in the future this would be a consideration but I wouldn't complain as I like using bass techiques on guitar from time to time.
  17. I have a solid-body Nashville Deluxe Power Telecaster with a fishman piezo under the bridge, so it has the attack regularly associated with an acoustic guitar, but because of the light strings and solid body, it doesn't sound much like a true acoustic. I have played around with effects and downloaded patches, but have not been able to find a satisfactory setting. What are the keys to making an electric guitar with a piezo sound like an acoustic? I've added reverb, but I don't have the foggiest clue how to dial in EQs.
  18. i'm really upset with line6, after changing a piezo, spending time and money i found why sometimes i cant ear the sound of a cord. as you can see from pic1 there is an almost fully cut between letters A and N of the word BANDO from the other side you can in pic2 what line6 did, instead of changing the part (that i think it cost about 0.20$), they made this: thank you line6!
  19. Français. Deutsch. What instruments and pickups can I plug into my Relay transmitter? Relay digital wireless systems basically just replace your instrument cable so basically you can plug anything into the transmitter that you could have plugged into your amp (as long as you don't exceed an input level of 6V p-p at the input). Examples: Instrument with piezo pickup - If you are currently happy with the sound you get from plugging from your instrument into your amp, then your rig will work just fine substituting Relay for your cable. The input of the Relay transmitter has a very high input impedance (1.3 Mohm) so as not to load down your instrument. This is equal to or even higher than most preamps specifically intended for piezo pickups. Stereo pickups with Y-Cord - Could also be standard pickups combined with a bridge saddle pickup. Again, if you are happy with the sound you get using this configuration then Relay will not get in the way of your sound. Or you could run each pickup to it's own individual Relay system which could then be split into stereo. Active instruments w/ preamps - If your instrument has an active preamp and is powered with a single 9v battery you will have no problems using Relay. If you have a double 9v preamp it is theoritically possible to clip the input of the transmitter but unlikely in the real world. Should this actually happen you can remedy it by backing off a bit on the master volume control, adding a pad to the cable or removing one of the batteries. The extra headroom offered by these systems is only a benefit if it fits in with the system gain structure (unless you are using it to purposly clip the input of your amp). Remember, unused headroom is wasted. Where should I plug Relay into my chain? Relay replaces the cable from your instrument to wherever the other end of that cable was plugged into. Plug your instrument into the transmitter and plug the output from the receiver into wherever that cable was before. Generally speaking, you are un-tethering yourself from the first piece in your chain. You don't have to worry about gain or level matching as Relay is a "unity" device. That means you get the same level (voltage) at the output jack of the receiver as you are getting from the output of your instrument. Nothing changes ... Relay's output level is neither louder nor softer than the original. The output from the "tuner" out is exactly the same as the main output in level and impedance. Only difference is the pressing the "mute" button on a G50/90 transmitter shuts off the main out but leaves the tuner output active. The XLR and 1/4" outputs on the G90 are also identical and are provided to give the user more versitility in connecting to other gear. What IS different? Depending on how you've set the cable modeling, you could be sending a lot more "highs" into your system than ever before. This could result in more apparent noise or hiss. It would be the same as if you had connected your instrument into your system with a 1-foot cable (which is pretty difficult to do unless you are a contortionist guitarist!). Adjusting to the proper cable model should remedy this situation. On the other hand, if you are using an acoustic guitar leaving the model off will sound like the freshest set of strings you've ever played. Relay: Digital Wireless: Was schließe ich an und wie? Welche Instrumente und Pickups kann ich an den Relay Transmitter anschließen? Relay Digital Wireless ersetzt einfach nur das Instrumentkabel, Sie können also fast alles in Ihren Transmitter stecken, was Sie auch in Ihren Verstärker gestöpselt hätten. (Solange Sie die Eingangsspannung von 6V pp nicht überschreiten.) Beispiele: Instrumente mit Piezo Pickup: Wenn Sie zur Zeit schon froh sind mit dem Soun den Sie bekommen, wenn Sie Ihr Instrument normal in den Verstärker stecken, dann wird das auch mit Relay als Kabelersatz genau so gut funktionieren. Der Eingang des Relay Transmitters hat eine extrem hohe Impedanz (1,3 Mohm), damit Ihr Instrument nicht belastet wird. Diese Impedanz ist gleich oder höher der meisten Vorverstärker speziell für Piezo Pickups. Stereo Pickups mit Y-Kabel: (oder standart Pickups kombiniert mit "bridge saddle" Pickup). Wenn Sie zur Zeit schon froh sind mit dem Soun den Sie bekommen, wenn Sie Ihr Instrument normal in den Verstärker stecken, dann wird das auch mit Relay als Kabelersatz genau so gut funktionieren. Sie könnten aber auch die einzelnen Pickups separat an verschiedene Relay Systeme anschließen um das Stereosignal aufzuspalten. Aktive Instrumente mit Vorverstärkern: Wenn Ihr Instrument einen aktiven Vorverstärker hat und durch eine einzelne 9V Batterie angetrieben wird, werden Sie keinerlei Probleme mit Relay haben. Wen nSie aber einen Vorverstärker mit doppelter 9V Batterie haben, ist es theoretisch möglich den Eingang des Transmitters zu übersteuern. Sollte dies passieren können Sie das Problem lösen indem Sie das Master Volume ein wenig herunterdrehen, dem Ausgang ein Padding geben oder eine der Batterien entfernen. Die zusätzliche Freiheit bei hohen Frequenzen bei solchen Systemen ist nur dann von Vorteil, wenn es mit dem Gain des Sytems zusammenpasst. (Außer natürlich, Sie verwenden es um absichtlich das Singal zu übersteuern.) Denken Sie daran, dass nicht benutze Freiheit bei hohen Frequenzen verschwendet ist. Wo soll ich mein Relay in die Kette schalten? Relay ersetzt einfach nur das Kabel vom Instrument zum Gerät, welches Sie mit dem Instrument verbinden wollen. Stecken Sie das Instrument in den Transmitter und dann den Ausgang des Empfängers worin auch immer das Instrument vorher steckte. Sie müssen sich nicht mehr um Gain- oder Levelabstimmung kümmern, da Relay ein "Unity" Gerät ist. Das bedeutet, dass Sie immer die gleiche Spannung im Ausgang des Empfängers haben, wie Sie aus dem Ausgang des Instrumentes bekommen. Nicht ändert... Der Ausgangspegel ist nicht höher odre tiefer als das Original. Der Ausgang des "Tuners" hat denselben Ausgangspegel und –impedanz, wie der Main-Ausgang. Der einzige Unterschied ist, dass durch drücken des "Mute" Knopfes auf dem G50/90 Transmitter nur die Main-Ausgänge und nicht der Tunerausgang abgeschaltet wird. Die XLR und 6.35mm Ausgänge des G90 sind identisch und sind vorhanden um dem Benutzer mehr Flexibilität für die Verbindung seiner Ausrüstung zu verleihen. Was ist anders? Jenachdem, wie Sie das Kabel-Modeling eingestellt haben kann es sein, dass Sie weit aus mehr "Höhen" in Ihr System senden, als vorher. Dies könnte zu deutlicherem Rauschen und Zischen führen. Das wäre dann dasselbe, als wenn Sie Ihr Instrument mit einem 30cm Kabel an das System angeschlossen hätten. (Was eventuell schwer zu machen ist.) Das Anpassen auf das korrekte Kabelmodell sollte dieses Problem lösen. Andererseits, wenn Sie eine akustische Gitarre benutzen können Sie das Modell abschalten und Wird das ganze sich anhören, wie der frischeste Satz Saiten, den Sie je gespielt haben. Relay: Signal sans fil digital: Qu'est-ce que je branche et comment? Quels instruments et micros est-ce que je peux brancher dans le transmetteur Relay? Les systèmes numériques sans fil Relay simplement remplacent les câbles instruments, donc vous pouvez brancher tous les instruments que vous pouvez brancher dans l'ampli. (Tant que vous ne dépassez pas un niveau d'entrée de 6V pp à l'entrée). Exemples: Instruments avec micro piezo: Si vous êtes actuellement satisfait du son que vous obtenez de brancher votre instrument à votre ampli, votre rig fonctionnera très bien avec Relay comme remplacement pour le câble. L'entrée du transmetteur Relay a une impédance très haute 1,3 (MOhm) pour ne pas surcharger votre instrument. C'est égal ou même supérieur à la plupart des préamplis spécifiquement destinés aux micros piezo. Micros stéréo avec câble Y: (ou micros standard combiné avec un micro bridge saddle). Vous êtes actuellement satisfait du son que vous obtenez de brancher votre instrument à votre ampli, votre rig fonctionnera très bien avec Relay comme remplacement pour le câble. Ou, vous pouvez connecter chanque micro avec un système Relay individuel pour le diviser en stéréo. Instruments actives avec préamplis: Si votre instrument a un préampli actif et est allumé avec une seule batterie 9V, vous n'aurez aucun problème avec Relay. Si vous avez un préampli double 9V, c'est théoriquement possible de brancher l'entrée du transmetteur mais c'est peu probable en réalité. Si cet événement se produit, vous pouvez reculer un peu sur le Master Volume, ajouter un pad sur le câble ou enlever une des deux batteries. La marge supplémentaire offerte par ces systèmes est seulement un avantage si elle s'inscrit dans la structure de gain du système (sauf si vous l'utilisez pour couper intentionnellement l'entrée de votre ampli). Rappelez-vous, marge non utilisée est perdue. Où est-ce que je dois brancher Relay dans la chaine? Relay remplace le câble de votre instrument à n'importe quel appareil vous voulez connecter votre instrument. Branchez votre instrument dans le transmetteur et la sortie du récepteur dans n'importe où ce câble était avant. Vous n'avez pas à vous soucier de gain ou de niveau correspondant parce que Relay est un appareil d '«unité». Ca veut dire que vous recevez le même niveau de tension au jack de sortie que vous recevez de la sortie de l'instrument. Rien ne change… Le niveau de sortie de relais n'est ni plus fort ni plus douce que l'original. La sortie du "Tuner" est exactement le même que la sortie Main (principale) en niveau et impédance. La seule différence est que pousser le bouton "Mute" sur un G50/G90 éteints la sortie Main mais laisse la sortie du tuner actif. Les orties XLR et 6.35mm sur le G90 sont identiques et sont fournis pour donner plus versatilité à l'utilisateur pour se connecter à autres appareils. Quelle est la différence? Selon la façon dont vous avez configuré la modélisation de câbles, vous pourriez envoyer beaucoup plus d'«hauts» dans votre système que jamais auparavant. Cela pourrait entraîner du bruit ou sifflement plus apparente. Ce serait le même que si vous aviez connecté votre appareil dans votre système avec un câble de 30cm. (ce qui est plutôt difficile à faire) Ajustement au modèle de câble approprié doit remédier à cette situation. D'autre part, si vous utilisez une guitare acoustique laissant le modèle off retentit comme l'ensemble le plus nouveau de cordes que vous n'avez jamais joué.
  20. Q: What is “radius” on a neck? A: Radius refers to the amount of curve on the fretboard. A smaller number (i.e. 9.5”) has a more pronounced curve than a larger number (i.e. 12”). Players who emphasize chording may prefer more round necks, while players who do a lot of bending may prefer flatter necks. Q: What is the nut width on the Variax electric guitars? Variax 300: 1 11/16" Variax 500: 1 5/8" Variax 600: 1 5/8" Q: What is the difference between maple (i.e. Variax 600) and rosewood (i.e. Variax 300) fretboards? A: Maple tends to be a bit brighter in tone, while rosewood tends to have a bit more sustain. Maple fretboards have some type of lacquer finish, as rosewood is traditionally unfinished. Q: What is “neck scale?” A: Neck scale is the distance from the bridge to the nut. All Variax electric guitars have a scale of 25.5” Q: What fretwire is used on the Variax Electric guitars? A: The closest fretwire in common use is the Dunlop 6130 wire, but it is not exactly the same wire. Q: What size allen wrenches are used on the Variax electric guitars? Tremolo arm and saddle height adjustment: 1.5mm Bridge height: 2.5 mm Truss Rod: 4mm Q: What kind of finish is used on the Variax? A: All Variax instruments use a polyester (yes, polyester) finish. Q: What type of glue is used in the hardware? A: Hide (i.e. horse) glue Q: What gauge D'Addario strings are on the Variax electric guitars? E: 10 (High) B: 13 G: 17 D: 26 A: 36 E: 46 (low) Variax Bass 700/705 B .130 (five-string model only) E .100 A .080 D .065 G .045 Q: What is the hole diameter for the tuning gears? A: The Variax guitars accept the standard 10mm (13/32nd") tuning gear. Q: What happens if I use different brand or gauge strings on my variax bass or guitar? A: The results will be the same as changing string type or gauge on an analog bass or guitar. The Variax guitars are no different than most other guitars regarding setup and maintenance; the may need to be set up for different gauges play correctly, or seasonally to counteract climate changes. The Variax will accept any common string gauge for that instrument type. Q: Do the Variax guitars have a low or high output impedance? A: All Variax guitars are low impedance, and should be treated like they are active instruments. Q: What are the default custom positions? Contents of Custom 1 Knob Positions: Knob Position / Pickup Selector Position & Original Model Location Custom 1/1 Acoustic/5 Custom 1/2 Reso/4 Custom 1/3 Acoustic/4 Custom 1/4 Reso/2 Custom 1/5 Reso/1 Custom 2 Positions feature hybrid models and alternate tunings created from Variax Workbench,Knob Position / Pickup Selector Position & Custom Tuning Custom 2/1 Spank with R-BillyTron Bridge Drop D Custom 2/2 R-Billy Sparkletop with R-billy D'almond Bridge & Middle Open A Custom 2/3 T-Modle F-Hole with Lester/Bridge Open D Custom 2/4 Special Bird with Chime Toaster/Middle Open C Custom 2/5 Tricone Reso Open G