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eenymason

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About eenymason

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  1. Hi DL4 users... after seeing Bill Frisell in a recent Line 6 blog/promo sent out via email, I'm really keen to get this kind of thing happening, particularly making use of half/full speed, and reverse, as he does in this demo. I posted this question on the HD500, but maybe dedicated DL4 users with HD500 experience may know the answer? I have an HD500, and want to know if I need to buy a DL4, or is all the functionality of the DL4 available in the HD500? I understand all the delays, and looper are there in the HD500, but wonder if there's anything about the DL4 layout/funcionality that differs from the HD500. I would probably set up a patch on the HD500 approximating the DL4 layout, etc, for use into a small valve amp, so would avoid all amp/cab modelling, etc. I understand one difference is that the loop volume can't be controlled by an expression pedal on the HD500, but I guess I could work around that...
  2. eenymason

    DL4 or HD500?

    Thanks for the replies - I guess I should have said that I have used the looper a few times on the HD, but I'm wondering if the DL4 has specific functions that the HD doesn't? Maybe I need to post this question on the other effects forum page? I guess I figured someone here may have spent intimate time using the looper and all it's associated functionality on both units..... Maybe I just need to get all jiggy with the HD today, and see what I can do with it!
  3. eenymason

    DL4 or HD500?

    Hi guys - any that are still using these dinosaurs! :) I have two HD500 modellers, and haven't been using either of them with any regularity for quite a while now. I'm considering buying a DL4 (delay modeller), and after watching Bill Frisell showing how he still gets great use out of that piece of gear after years of going through other failing pedals, I wonder if the Pod HD500 can be set up to loop, etc in the same way that the DL4 does, to be brought in and out of play. I'm sure I could do hours of research, and still not really know what I want to know, without actually buying a DL4, to ascertain whether I actually need it or not, to do that kind of usage of time/pitch change, loop reversal kind of stuff. I love it, but wouldn't know how to go about it on the HD500. Does anybody use their HD500 in the same kind of way that Bill Frisell does here? Is it possible, or does DL4 have different capabilities?
  4. You're not going to get much help without more info on the variax model you bought... If you see the 5 way selectorby removing a back-plate, I guess that narrows it down to either a JTV69 or JTV89, in which case you need to post this question on the JTV forum instead of here. I guess at least then, someone could upload a photo of inside.
  5. Another thing to note is that most people who use the acoustic models on the variax, say that using heavier gauge strings, and a lighter touch gives you a more realistic sound. I don't use it so much, so don't claim to have any expereience with this either way - it's just what I've read here on the forums. Have you searched for "acoustic" tags on here?
  6. Totally doable, with all due care and attention to the intricacies of the variax innards. I have one Tele clone, which I bought as is, and two Strat clones, which I transplanted myself. As codamedia suggests, with JTV and Standard models available (more expensive to buy second hand than 300/500/600), if you want magnetic pickups as well, they'd be what you want to buy, whether to use as is, or to transplant into a Tele clone, if that's what you really really want. The early variaxes however, didn't have mag p/ups, and evidently it IS very complicated to have both mag p/ups and variax 300/500/600 electronics together on the one instrument, except if you're happy to have separate controls for each output (magnetic, and variax), as well as separate output jacks, and you'd have to work out how to blend those signals downstream. If you don't need magnetic p/ups, then transplanting 300/500/600 guts into a Tele is not that hard, as long as you are handy with a router, and maybe a chisel. I woudn't buy a real Tele for the transplant, but a cheap clone would suffice - my Strat clones are SX brand, bought because they have alder bodies, and totally usable necks (with a bit of fine tuning to suit my tatste), though the frets do wear pretty quickly with regular gigs. psarkissian says they won't sound the same, but realistically, it's not a deal breaker - besides, if you A/B with another variax, you can tweak stuff in workbench, if you're that anal about tones being out by 5% or thereabouts, but I'd say you won't even notice. The Strat models will still sound like Strat models, for example....
  7. So is it simply a connectivity to workbench that's the problem, or does it not make any sound? It could be the output jackplate causing no connectivity to WB - you can still get these I believe, although it may be that you have to order one for Variax Bass, or JTV, and some chisel work inside the 600 jack plate assembly cavity to allow it to fit, as these others are a little longer, and need more depth in the body. If it's the latter, have you tried both VDI and jack outputs for signal? There are many points in the chain, where there could be a failure, whether momentary, or permanent. I have two 300s and a 600, all of which have been transplanted into either Strat or Tele clones, all of which have shown odd behaviour at times. They're not getting any younger, and well, they're computers basically, so time is up for them, at some stage, for sure.... It can be frustrating troubleshooting these, as it's not simply pickups, switches and pots... I have been able to swap components around between guitars, in order to troubleshoot, so unless you know someone else locally who owns one, and is happy to allow some temporary component extraction, you'll find it hard going. My first suggestion is to try swapping the output jack (complete unit), with one you know works, and work backwards from there. As far as I know, the PCB is no longer available (my mate got the last one i stock, from one of the online suppliers last year), so you'd be looking at getting a second hand donor, e.g.300, if yours is indeed fried.
  8. You need to set/save the min/max levels, and also (as I found out recently), with each and every patch you add the second expression pedal to, you need to disconnect/reconnect the pedal, then save settings, for the Pod to recognise that it is connected, and controlling the volume. This is a huge PITA when you already have the Pod fully setup with patches without a 2nd pedal, then try to add one. I recently raised the question if there is a way around it with Line 6, and THERE IS NO WAY AROUND IT GRRRRR!!!!!!
  9. SOLVED: Thanks for your response codamedia - no java errors, and monkey installed correct workbench... I had the need to try it again last night, and with success - went through the process of selecting device, and found I had to select the Pod HD500 first, which I hadn't done on the previous (unsuccessful) effort. Although I felt it all somewhat confusing, I guess I'll have to put that one down to user error.... I don't recall having to do that ever before.
  10. Hi guys, Digital gadgetry has a bad day? Does anyone know of an issue regarding connectivity between Variax 300/600 and workbench using Pod HD500, and Windows Vista? I have no issues with connecting to Monkey, or HD Edit, via the same connection. So here's the story... I successfully reflashed the firmware using Monkey in my 300/600 vaxplant, as I was having a strange warbling issue all of a sudden on the open 6th E, and fretted F. So after reflashing, I go back into Workbench to reload all my user patches from a backup, and it won't connect. I used monkey to download Workbench again, used the Line 6 uninstaller to uninstall Workbench, then re-installed it. Still no banana. Doesn't even recognise 300/600 as being connected. Disconnect everything, reconnect, still no banana. I connected to my MacBook Pro, and everything connected fine, reloaded patches fine. So I had a workaround, but I still want to have connectivity, as my computer workspace is where I usually do it all.
  11. Hi all expression pedal nerds, In the past, I have simply toggled the on-board pedal between exp1, and exp 2, to change from volume to wah, or whatever else.... I just bought a second hand EX1, and it functions as it should. My problem is, every patch, (presumably, because it was set up with toggling the onboard pedal only), I have to physically unplug the EX1, and then re-connect it,and then save the patch, for the EX1 to have control of the volume, freeing up the onboard pedal for whatever else.... Is there any way around this? Yea - I know - first world problem, but surely this scenario was thought of, in the design phase! LINE 6??? Anyone home to answer this?
  12. If I understand your problem correctly, I believe you can do this yourself - have you replaced the bank selector pot, and now can't find which way to replace the knob, so the models read correctly? You can locate a guitar tone on one of the other variaxe 300s you have, and note the position of the bank selector , and pickup selector.- usually something like one of the alternate tunings in the presets, or the dobro, or banjo are quite easy to recognise. Find the same model on the variax you replaced the bank selector pot, and replace the knob in the right position (same as on the other variax), ensuring it's inserted fully. Be firm, but don't be a gorilla and break it.... Hope this sorts out your problem for you.
  13. Sorry to drag up an old post, but I recently bought a 2nd expression pedal. and, I'm having exactly the same problem. Did you find out a more user friendly way, than unplugging and re-plugging the 2nd expression pedal? Prior to purchasing the pedal, I had all my patches set with exp2 = vol and exp1 = wah (or occasionally, another value adjustment), and I really don't wanna have to go through each and every damn patch, unplug, plug, unplug. plug..............................
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