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Found 6 results

  1. Q: What is 'radius' on a neck? A: Radius refers to the amount of curve on the fretboard. A smaller number (i.e. 9.5") has a more pronounced curve than a larger number (i.e. 12"). Players who emphasize chording may prefer more round necks, while players who do a lot of bending may prefer flatter necks. Q: What is the nut width on the Variax electric guitars? Variax 300: 1 11/16" Variax 500: 1 5/8" Variax 600: 1 5/8" Q: What is the difference between maple (i.e. Variax 600) and rosewood (i.e. Variax 300) fretboards? A: Maple tends to be a bit brighter in tone, while rosewood tends to have a bit more sustain. Maple fretboards have some type of lacquer finish, as rosewood is traditionally unfinished. Q: What is "neck scale"? A: Neck scale is the distance from the bridge to the nut. All Variax electric guitars have a scale of 25.5" Q: What fretwire is used on the Variax Electric guitars? A: The closest fretwire in common use is the Dunlop 6130 wire, but it is not exactly the same wire. Q: What size allen wrenches are used on the Variax electric guitars? Tremolo arm and saddle height adjustment: 1.5mm Bridge height: 2.5 mm Truss Rod: 4mm Q: What kind of finish is used on the Variax? A: All Variax instruments use a polyester (yes, polyester) finish. Q: What type of glue is used in the hardware? A: Hide (i.e. horse) glue Q: What gauge D'Addario strings are on the Variax electric guitars? E: 10 (High) B: 13 G: 17 D: 26 A: 36 E: 46 (low) Variax Bass 700/705 B .130 (five-string model only) E .100 A .080 D .065 G .045 Q: What is the hole diameter for the tuning gears? A: The Variax guitars accept the standard 10mm (13/32nd") tuning gear. Q: What happens if I use different brand or gauge strings on my Variax bass or guitar? A: The results will be the same as changing string type or gauge on an analog bass or guitar. The Variax guitars are no different than most other guitars regarding setup and maintenance; the may need to be set up for different gauges play correctly, or seasonally to counteract climate changes. The Variax will accept any common string gauge for that instrument type. Q: Do the Variax guitars have a low or high output impedance? A: All Variax guitars are low impedance, and should be treated like they are active instruments. Q: What are the default custom positions? Contents of Custom 1 Knob Positions: Knob Position / Pickup Selector Position & Original Model Location Custom 1/1 Acoustic/5 Custom 1/2 Reso/4 Custom 1/3 Acoustic/4 Custom 1/4 Reso/2 Custom 1/5 Reso/1 Custom 2 Positions feature hybrid models and alternate tunings created from Variax Workbench,Knob Position / Pickup Selector Position & Custom Tuning Custom 2/1 Spank with R-BillyTron Bridge Drop D Custom 2/2 R-Billy Sparkletop with R-billy D'almond Bridge & Middle Open A Custom 2/3 T-Modle F-Hole with Lester/Bridge Open D Custom 2/4 Special Bird with Chime Toaster/Middle Open C Custom 2/5 Tricone Reso Open G
  2. Is this the correct nut for a replacement? Otherwise provide a GTIN or part-number, please.
  3. In common with others, I found the neck on my Variax Standard a little narrow for my tastes. I play mostly fingerstyle, and it was impossible to precisely sound individual notes with the very tight string spacing. I measured the neck at 41.2mm (1 5/8") precisely, but E-E spacing on the factory nut was a very narrow 33.8mm. A quick search through Graph Tech's website found the Black Tusq XL PT-6225-00, a precut 41.2mm nut with a healthy E-E spacing of 34.9mm. Even though 1.1mm improvement sounds tiny, it makes a huge difference under the fingers. Heres a comparison of the nut widths: The factory nut popped off easily with a light tap with a plastic hammer. The new nut is a great fit, and only needed sanding on the base to bring the height down. I fixed the new nut with a single drop of CA glue, so that it can easily be removed in the future. The replacement looks better than the narrower factory nut, which didn't hide the truss rod cover: Here's the finished upgrade - you can see the frets are JUST wide enough to accomodate the new spacing: The guitar is now far more comfortable to play, and despite the wider spacing the strings don't slip off the neck (which was the biggest danger of this upgrade). For anyone reading and considering the upgrade, I recommend you measure your neck width and E-E spacing first. It could be that the factory simply cut the nut on my guitar too narrow. Also examine your fret ends - if the ends are finished with a shallow angle, you might suffer string slippage on the top & bottom E. However, this is a cheap & reversible upgrade - if you try it and it doesn't work out, just pop the factory nut back on.
  4. I've only had two Variax guitars to work with, but so far I've run into the same situation with both, and wondered if anyone else had encountered it. The nut is too close to the 1st fret, and the bridge is too close to the 12th fret. Now, I'm setting these up with light gauge strings (starting with a .008), and I'm setting the action at about 3/32 for the low string, and 2/32 for the high end (at the 12th fret). The height of the string over the first fret is okay (though that was kinda sporadic), and I can get strings 1 to 4 to intonate, but the saddles string 5 and 6 both bottom out, and that's with the set screws for the bridge posts at full extension. So about the nut...even on properly intuned strings, the pitch of the fretted first fret is sharp (and I'm being very careful to only just lightly fret them when checking, so as to not stretch the string over the fret). What I've done to rectify the issue is that I've carefully filed the nut on the neck side with a combination of flat filing, and filing with a slight angle, so as to bring the contact back as much as 1/16" or abouts (I also filed the top down quite a bit, as the strings were set pretty deeply into the nut, and there was a lot of extra nut above them)...and for the bridge, rather than pulling the posts, and plugging and resetting them, I have temporarily used some longer set screws and pushed the posts out to just short of losing their widest contact. It works, and it sounds much better now. So has anyone else encountered this? Maybe Line 6 needs to check their jigs? Ken
  5. Does anyone know what the nut width is on the JTV-89F? The specifications listed here do not say how wide the nut is on the JTV-89F: and neither does the product manual here: Specs: JTV-89F - Mahogany body - 3-piece maple neck with rosewood fingerboard (Tyler Fast n' Flat neck shape) - 25-1/2" scale length - 16" radius neck profile - Tyler Fast n’ Flat neck shape - 24 jumbo frets and dot inlays - Locking Floyd Rose® nut and string tree - Sealed tuners (16:1 turn ratio) - Black and black nickel hardware - Floyd Rose® Licensed double-locking tremolo system* by Graph Tech - L. R. Baggs Radiance Hex piezo pickup system - Two high-output, PAF-style alnico humbucking pickups wound to Tyler's specs - Master volume and tone knobs - Model and Alt Tune knobs - 5-way selector switch - VDI (Variax® Digital Interface) for integration with Line 6 POD HD500 and POD HD Pro, and limited compatibility with POD® xt, POD® X3, Vetta™ II amplifier and other legacy Line 6 products - Li-Ion battery (12 hours of play time), and international wall charger - Variax Workbench™ software and USB interface - Includes quality padded gig bag - Additional battery, charger and cable kit available separately Regards David.
  6. Which one to buy? Which is appropriate? Please help.
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