JimRad

Thank you - just what I was looking for! It also confirms that Ganymede is twice as DSP-hugging as Plate :-) /Jim

Has anyone seen an overview over the DSP requirements for each block of effects? Just moving down from a Helix LT to the Pod Go this has suddenly become an important thing when building my sounds as it runs out of DSP pretty fast. As an example, If I have a delay and choose the Ganymede Reverb I can't have a distortion as well until I change to de Plate reverb. It would be nice to know which effects are DSP heavy and which are not. thanks /JimR

...and I have since then made a 3D printed version as well, you can download the files Here (Thingiverse JimR) br JimR

DO try the Yamaha DXR10 mkII if you can, it sounds really good with plenty of everything (volume, bass, mids, smooth, non-harsh highs). I have been pretty slow to go the FRFR route as I love my tube amps and speakers but I took the plunge recently in the ZZ TOP cover band and I have not regretted it. That said, I still do pedals and BassMan head + 2x12 Marshall cab in the Blues Trio :-) Here's a recording in the room (Tascam DR-07 mkII built-in mikes): PITZZTOP: Just got paid br JimR

I'm using an Ultimaker 2+ and this is one of my first prints using PETG (Cura calls it CEP), I think I used 40 mm/s but I am working on getting it faster, I think I'm up to 60 mm/s now. I had major issues getting it to stick to the build plate at first but a few coats with PVA glue and slow brim speed made a difference (and 80 degrees build plate) Jim

sorry mate, grab the file and find someone local to do the 3D print. br Jim

The Yamaha DXR10 mkII is a great, great sounding unit with the Helix. I wanted the sound projected upwards while standing up to preserve the wide horisontal coverage so I designed and made a 3D printed tilt stand that fits into the speaker stand holes. It's a nice and small thing that fits in the junk-bag to avoid lugging a big and ugly speaker stand. You can download the STL file for 3D printing here: Thingiverse JimR Tilt Stand Edit: I should have said this right away: I am not offering to manufacture these, it takes 9 hours to print and is not really worth my time for the small amount of money people want to pay for 3D printed parts. JimR

You will be happy after some sound tinkering just use your ears and a lot of experiment. If you play live with it DO test your sounds on the right amp/speaker at band volume, it really matters - then adjust in a full band mix, probably by pulling a bit of lower end out. Remember that Snapshots is an option, you can just - not use it :-) I never use it, probably because my gigging-head lives in pedal-land so I have configured the user interface to just turn on/off pedals and it works really well. I have the LT too as I really don't need all those extra functions and the LT is already pretty big on the floor, I don't need an even bigger unit as it can be a problem om small stages. Try the Orange cab IR, it's cheap (enough) and sounds brilliant. It's the only one I use: https://www.cabir.eu/en/pro-ir-series/3-speaker-cabinet-impulse-response-cab-ir-library-orange-or-4x12g12h30.html br JimR

Thank you guys for this thread, I just bought a Yamaha DXR10 mkII for my Helix LT and I want to be able to use it both as an 'amp' behind med and as a monitor pointing to the stage. I want the full horisontal coverage of the horn which means standing the speaker up but I also want it on the floor so I made this small woody-thingy that inserts into the stand hole and makes it possible to angle the speaker while still standing up. br JimR