themetallikid

OOPS....MY BAD!!!

It's already in the Helix as the 'Weeper' option of the wahs. I do wish we could get some updates to the wahs though. Some of the signature Dunlop ones, or better options on the wahs. The rack wah has a built in EQ and so many have a boost function built in or the 535 has 5 different Q selections. I feel its one area that has been ignored. I do like the new Bass wah though, it has something close to what I like with the Q control.

I'm thinking this is not going to be the solution for me for a comparable home practice rig. Short of just getting another Helix.

I apologize, not HX Control. I assumed that HX Control could control things in Native. I have the full Helix floor unit. Which I know is an interface, and such, however I was hoping to have a comparable rig...... to keep at home....where I could work on things and then import/export to my live rig when needed. Setting up my pedalboard/case/cables etc is a bit cumbersome in my apartment space. Was thinking that native and controller would be an efficient way to get full Helix experience for home practice. Most of my presets wont really translate into one of the smaller units as I utilize the 2 dsp's.

I feel like I come up with this idea in my head every xmas, but never really look into it. If I wanted to get Helix Native to make practice at home that much easier (small space in an apartment and full pedalboard with Helix is cumbersome)... What would I all need to get? I assume i'd need some type of interface thingamajig to get my guitar into laptop?? suggestions? Are there advantages of one over another? I'd likely need an expression pedal (or two) to help match my presets that i use live with the full Helix. What are some cheaper ones that would work. Live on my board I use Mission Engineering as an EXP2. Is there anything lesser in price but still decent quality? HX Control would be my foot controller? and then the cost of Native. Are there laptop restrictions? I have a WIN10 laptop that isnt much for ram/processing power as its been mostly used for emails/bills/internet/spotify type stuff.

I have been using Chad Boston's IR that he offers. To me, it is the most AITR feeling IR that I have used. It does not have a mic baked into it, that I know of, which makes dialing in the high end a little bit easier for my ears. I have my Helix running through the Fender FR12. Sounds great for a 1x12 or a 4x12.

So I'm delving into the dedicated Looper realm (qualifier: I'm not really getting deep though), and just have a question about where to put it in my chain. So maybe I'll come to my own conclusion typing this out, or maybe I have it all wrong in my head. I'll be using this for my solo acoustic shows as a rhythm guitar player only, to provide background to play some solo's and extend some songs a bit. I'll have pre-recorded loops of the rhythms saved in the pedal (or card if I get one, seems like it should be a thing though), and just want to turn on a solo 'sound' for my live guitar. The typical options would be in front of the Helix or in the loop, no? In front - This seems to be the worse of the two as the looper output would then be fed into my lead sound and thus causing all sorts of audio shenanigans to come through. Loop - This seems more logical as I would put have it on its own path, and thus control it on the pedal itself?? I run my solo shows using a single preset. Path 1 is my guitar, Path 2 is my vocals. However, I'm thinking this is where I'm going to run into an issue.... I keep a separate monitor 'mix' if you will by splitting off paths 1a/2a to the 'b' sections right at the end of the chain, add a gain block (to hold the split only) and then adjust my monitor 'mix' via the output blocks on the B path. So 1a/2a are my signal paths, the outputs are for the FOH. 1b/2b are only for my 1/4" output to my monitor. Thus, If I put the Send/Return/FX Loop block(s) at the end of path 1A right before the split, I get that it would send audio to both monitor/FOH and as long as I'm not recording/overdubbing anything on to my loop, my lead would just play along with the JamMan's audio being fed through the FX Loop Block? Or is there a better way to do this?? Edit - Follow up question - I ran a pedal in the loop previously a few years ago and it had more noise than I cared for for that pedal at the time (think it was a Feedbacker).....would I need to worry about that in this presets context?

I use the EXP for this purpose or to change 'snapshots' in a way as well. Some presets for me (i'm also lead singer and guitar) are a simple rhythm sound and then a lead sound, but while singing it can be trouble some with the size of my pedal board to look down and hit the right button. I have incorporated into my 'stance' a way to rest my right foot on the expression pedal..... and use 15% as the auto engage between my rhythm/lead tones. Its easy enough to set the auto engage to the bypass function of a block and then you can vary between the 2. The main place where having an actual stomp button is a better solution is if you have a block that is already engaged in your rhythm and you are adjust a parameter to get into your lead sound, you need the on/off functionality of a button. Example, if you have an always on OD in front of your amp (take the standard screamer scenario 0 drive, tone 5, level 10), and now for lead purposes you want to increase the gain to 4 to add a little extra dirt to your signal hitting the amp. Using a footswitch you can set snapshots to do this, or assign the drive paramenter to the expression pedal.. however setting the drive to the expression pedal, creates a gradual increase as you go from 15% >100% to get your increase of 0 drive to 4 drive. Subtle in this example, but for some effects, it can be not the goal. A 2nd way to do this would be to assign all effects to a button on your Helix's layout, as a stomp. Thus assigning every paramenter change to a single stomp. You can then set the switch to be momentary thus step on (play lead), let off (back to rhythm). A 3rd way would be to set up a specific rhythm/lead snapshots scenario 1 & 2. I typically will assign button 11 as my rhythm (home) tone. Button 7 is my goto for a momentary lead sound switch. I will then assign button 7 to snapshot 2. In the Command Center, when setting up button 7, you set the step on snapshot to 2, and the step off snapshot to 1. So thus creating a momentary situation as well.

I remember the Boss GT series had an EZ Tone Creator. You would move a point on an X/Y axis chart and as you moved around it would, in the background, adjust parameters in amp selection/settings, as well as some potential effects like Delay. X axis was rhythm (far left) and lead (far right), the Y axis was Heavy Rock at the top and Clean at the bottom. So you could float around that chart and then it would adjust your amp/cab selections. The next chart you could choose would be an FX based one sorta thing. It was pretty cool to choose your genre, work through the 2 charts, and then save the preset and look at the nuts and bolts of what their engine drew up. You'd end up on some amps that normally you'd just not try out for whatever reason. Was a great way to get some really quick base tones....would love to see Helix do this as well.

Yeah we were playing a song with the whammy and toe down was auto off. We started the song and i could not figure out who was out of tune....then i saw my whammy block was on. I literally could not shut it off, once it was engaged (auto off was above 93%) except by change presets and going back to the current songs preset where it was saved as off.... That 93% mark had crept down from the 97% i started with. I even for fun set the auto off down to 80% and it didnt matter, my toe down would read as 100%, but then without the pedal moving drift down to a few points below whatever I had it set to. No win situation. Since I had the floor, no issues, except the last year with the 0% not staying at 0%, but I still feel that this is not the same issue. At least its not as prominent.

Is yours the Full or the LT? I had that same problem with the LT, didnt matter what i set my auto-off to, it would go to 100% and then when i released my foot, it would drop to random numbers, thus turning the effect back on. Horrible problem with it attached to a whammy and heel down is -12 tones. lol... Switched to the full helix and have never had the problem on the toe down side. I have a bit of drift on the heel down side, however i feel its related to the stopper and any rebound from it. as i can get it to sit at <3%, but it gets to 5% pretty often, thus having to set my auto off at 7%. I tried the heel down fully when power on, and it seems to be 'less', but still noticeable.

Interesting, I have usually always used Toe Down (100%) as my starting position....but i'll try it at 0% when I fire it up tonight and see if that seems to help at all.

I get some drift on heel down. I dont know how to fix mine...heel down at 0%, I step off (still in contact with the rubber stopper) and it drifts up anywhere 0-8%. I've debated filing down the rubber stopper a bit to go sub 0%, but not sure how that would effect it reading 0 or do something weird when beyond the 0 position.

I agree, but this goes against my normal work flow. Though I've gotten better at doing this. I typically will build a preset as I navigate through a song, so if an effect is not used til later and only on snapshot 3, i already have snapshots 1 and 2 designed, and then adding a block on snapshot 3, thus adds it as active on 1 and 2. I wish there was a setting we could choose if blocks added are active/disabled initially. The only other way I could see would be to save it as a new 'user' default....but offhand I'm not sure if that overrides the bypass state when added. Im pretty sure favorites do, but I dont want to save a favorite for every block i use, when user defaults are the same thing, and easier to access for some things.

DOES THE KNOB JUST PULL STRAIGHT 'UP/OFF'? SHOULD I PUT SOMETHING UNDERNEATH IT TO 'LIFT' IT UP, WOULD THAT BE BETTER?