Jump to content

DolurumMafikala

Members
  • Posts

    60
  • Joined

  • Last visited

DolurumMafikala's Achievements

Enthusiast

Enthusiast (6/14)

  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later
  • One Year In
  • First Post Rare
  • Collaborator Rare

Recent Badges

6

Reputation

  1. Wishing we had this interface for Helix Native! DM
  2. @soundog I just logged on to make a similar post but will keep things together here. I wish I had seen your post months ago as I've ended up with the same discovery. I was initially disappointed with HXN but persevered and have now found great sounds by turning down the input level. In my case I am not using Helix HW to record, rather I am using a dedicated audio interface. I am applying a -12dB trim on the input level in the plugin itself. I am applying a +3dB trim on the output level slider so the monitoring level is good. Like you, I'm finding that you have to turn down the input to HXN even more than it says in the manual. I find things sound good when the input meter stays in the green. Any yellow and things start to sound harsh. There are a lot of confused posts out there with posters conflating (1) the gain on their audio interface input channel, (2) the right input level to their plugin, (3) any gain/drive/channel volume/volume pedal/boost pedal settings on the models within their plugin and (4) the output level on their plugin. These are all separate and things become clearer when they are treated separately. (1) is about capturing a healthy, not clipped audio signal into your computer. This is what Soundog talks about in (1) above. Any DAW processessing needs this. (2) is about applying the right level of signal for the models in your plugin. I think this is where it can get confusing. It seems that HXN wants a pretty quiet level to sound good. A nice, loud signal into your DAW seems too loud for HXN, so you have to turn it down. Soundog talks about this in (2) above. I'm using the input trim in the HXN plugin itself to achieve the result. Other plugins like Amplitube or Guitar Rig seem to be happier with an input level (2) that is similar to the DAW capture level you set for (1). Maybe some do some internal levelling - we wouldn't know. Some, like Peavey Revalver, have a "Learn" button that listens to the input and turns it up or down as needed for that plugin. Some plugins document their input level needs, some don't. When I say I am applying a -12dB trim in HXN input, I should also point out that I am keeping my signal captured into my DAW pretty cool too - not often peaking over -18dBFS on my DAW meters. I'm using a Focusrite Saffire 6 USB with the Gain at 0, Instrument switch in and Pad switch in to capture the guitar. In summary: If you think Helix Native sounds bad, particularly if it sounds harsh, clipped or unpleasantly-distorted then try turning down the input level trim in the plugin so that the meter does not go into the yellow. I've circled the relevant points in red on the attached screenshot. Hope this helps. @Digital_Igloo @Line6Tony You might consider a sticky in the Helix Native forum along these lines. I worry that people who just try the trial and don't adjust their capture levels would get a bad first impression and just dismiss the product. I know the manual covers levels but it looks like some of us are finding we need to turn down even more than the manual suggests. DM
  3. I love Johan Segeborn's vids. All those vintage amps, amazing chops and his relaxing Swedish diction :)
  4. @Scorebass Because "it rolled through the banks", I wonder if your one or both of your Bank Up or Bank Down footswitches are stuck. You might want to try Method 3 from this post on those footswitches: Depending on where you are Dexoit could be easier to find than Servisol. Just don't buy a contact cleaner that doesn't have lubricant in. DM
  5. Thanks @JohannDaart for the link to the earlier thread. I followed @hurghanico's advice in it to google "tube amp crackle on note decays" and found many references to this in real amps and in modellers. The standout for me was this thread where they are talking about the Amplifire. This specific post links to an A/B test between a Fender modelling amp and a real Champ-style amp: https://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/fuzzy-distortion-when-the-notes-tails-off-is-my-amplifire-faulty.1636667/post-20938332 For me the real amp sounded fuzzier than the modeller! I'm not worried about all this in La Pod, I just find it interesting and educational. I'm concluding that real amps (especially older designs) do this to various degrees and so the modellers do it too, to various degrees. The extra clarity from the modellers (and suspicion of them) might make the noise stand out more.
  6. Thanks for taking the time to do the experiment @stormstudios I appreciate it. Just a quirk of the model then perhaps. I'm just happy it is a simple twist of the Master DEP and not a string of PEQs :)
  7. Relatedly, what revision is your motherboard? It will be printed on there. Or just post some high-resolution photographs of your board. By high-resolution, I mean so we can read the numbers on the parts. Where I am going with this is that you might be looking at a photo of an older layout and comparing to a newer layout. For example, Line 6 may have simply moved to a smaller package for those oscillators, so they look different but are not actually missing.
  8. Searching, I find that the original Pod and Pod 2 did have a battery, and a test mode to check it, but the HD bean does not. L6 seem to have moved to Flash memory in the HD series. I don't have an HD bean so this is just me inferring from other info. @titchyblackcat are you definitely sending the presets the way @hurghanico described? Sorry to ask, but wanted to eliminate that aspect.
  9. Well, if they are intended for the circuit, then whatever they clock wouldn't do anything, which would be bad. Are you sure they are missing from your board? As in, where they ever there? There are different revisions of the main board and perhaps you are looking at a photo of a revision that is different to the version in your Pod. They might be in a different place or not even in the version you have.
  10. Since I've had the Pod HD500X I've always noticed some high-end fuzzy digital-sounding noises on the Twin Reverb model and I think on the other Standard Pack vintage Fender models too. Recently I tried Peter Hamner's presets http://www.peterhanmer.co.za/hd500x.htm after stumbling across his demonstration videos. His Fender Twin Reverb patch, which runs the Drive at 57%, shows the effect I had noticed. I isolated it in the attached file, which is me plucking the G string. It sounds like a buzz, as if a string is vibrating against a fret (it isn't) or a speaker was loose (this was recorded over USB, no speaker involved). I found I could remove the noise by turning down the Master DEP to about 60%. By default, it is set to 100%, presumably to model the fact the original Twin Reverb does not have a Master Volume knob. Reading some comments by companies that have modelled these early Fender amps it does sound like they have power-amp distortion which is subjectively unpleasant. Maybe what I was hearing was correctly-modelled power-amp distortion and by turning down the invented Master DEP I was removing it by reducing the signal going into the power amp stage. If so, it is pretty cool that the model would do that. If anyone has a real Twin Reverb or Deluxe Reverb or similar I'd love to know if you get a similar distortion/artifacts to the one in the attachment when you turn up past 5. Just out of interest about the model accuracy. Some related comments that got me thinking along those lines: This is from a Line 6 Forum post about invented controls in Helix, talking about the DR rather than the TR: https://line6.com/support/topic/19961-helix-amp-model-gallery-real-controls-vs-invented/ We matched the knob positions in the amp models. If anyone here has used a Deluxe Reverb you know that after about 4-5, the amp stop getting louder. Once the amp goes past 7-8 it can get pretty ugly. The model behaves the same. Once the drive passes 40% or so, it'll never be a clean amp. Cranking the drive will never give a tight distortion, it'll blow out the power amp. Some think this sounds awesome, some think it sounds ugly. That's totally subjective. But if you are using a model and you want more drive, think of how that model would sound when cranked. Sometimes it sounds a lot better to put a drive pedal in front of an amp than to push an amp to its limits. And another from Fractal Audio, again talking about the DR: https://wiki.fractalaudio.com/wiki/index.php?title=Amplifier_models_list#DELUXE_VERB_NORMAL_.28blackface_Fender_Deluxe_Reverb.2C_AB763.29 (fuzzy lows) "That's what those amps do. Always been that way. Just to be sure I just compared the Deluxe Verb model with the reference amp and it's correct. Those are old designs. Simple circuits with minimal frequency shaping. As such there's a lot of bass going into the power amp. That coupled with the resonance magnification of the speaker impedance causes frequencies around the resonance (in the 50-100 Hz region) to distort early. The low E string is 82 Hz so it's right in that zone." [160] Artifact.mp3
  11. They are tone reservoirs. Before they ship the Pods, Line 6 fill them with mojo from big tanks they have in Calabasas, CA. The tanks themselves are kept topped up via automated collection of vintage juice that comes from their cache of amps kept in storage. The more you play via the Pod the quicker they run out, so be careful! More seriously, my guess would be oscillators to provide clocks for the integrated circuits (chips) that need them, like the processor. If you still have the Pod open and can take a higher-resolution photograph we might be able to look up the numbers. Out of interest, why the question?
  12. Thinking along @hurghanico 's lines, does it forget all presets, or only new ones?
  13. Flash memory, similar to the SD card in your camera or smartphone.
  14. I ended up getting a Gator GMC-2222 https://www.gatorcases.com/products/mixer/mixerrecording-gear-covers/stretchy-mixer/22-x-22-mixer-cover-gmc-2222/ It is square rather than rectangular, but being stretchy it fits well enough. It feels like decent quality and was inexpensive. It is made of that stretchy swimming suit sort of material so might repel a mild liquid spill as well. This is how it looks on the device.
×
×
  • Create New...