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DolurumMafikala

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About DolurumMafikala

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  1. Thumbs up for documenting the fix!
  2. Hard to be sure, but to me that sounds like a problem with the hardware: perhaps a faulty internal connection or solder joint that is making a firmer connection as it warms up, or a component like a capacitor that is dying. Do you have a Line 6 service agent where you live? Unfortunately paying to fix something like that might not be cheap and it might be more economical to replace the unit with a more modern one, perhaps a used model. Depending on where you live you might be able to find a general electronics repair person who could investigate. If you have an ability to work on electronics you could investigate yourself, but you have to know how to not electrocute yourself or the Pod to look internally. A simple suggestion that does not need the Pod to be opened would be to gently waggle your input jack and output connections in different directions and see if you can get the sound to cut out or come in if you apply gentle pressure at different angles. If you can then you are likely to have a broken solder joint where the connector meets the motherboard. Or, maybe just turn it on 15 mins before you need to use it. It might work that way for a good while and you can save up for another one :-) Someone else may have better suggestions, but those are my initial thoughts. DM
  3. If the tracking glitches start to bug you you could take the Pitch Shifter out and keep the Synth-O-Matic. That way you will still get the synth sound which would give the overall feeling. Looks like there are zillion versions of this song so anything goes.
  4. Hi, According to Wikipedia that noise is Ike on a Moog. This might be close enough. You have to play single notes for the Pitch Shifter to track, and I find it helps if you play on a single string and slide up and down rather than individually fretting the notes. It approximates that portamento(?) effect the synths can do. You can also try swapping the Synth-O-Matic in this patch for a Growler and see if you prefer it. DM. Nutbush Synth.5xe
  5. Ah ha! I'll see if I can find that. I've found a site selling covers for mixing consoles. They'll make custom sizes. Seem to be less than 10 USD so might be worth a try. https://www.coversandall.com/music-mixer-covers.html
  6. Fair point @silverhead. Maybe I could use a washed-out Motorhead t-shirt too \m/
  7. He uses pitch shifters in these patches, so perhaps for a whistle sound you could just shift higher. I listened to a couple of versions of the track on Youtube but wasn't sure I could find the part you are talking about. Can you give a direct link?
  8. After recently cleaning my footswitches I am looking for a way to keep the dust off my HD 500X. I'm looking for something where I can leave the board in place and connected, then just slip the cover off when I want to play. I'm not looking for a transporting solution. I've seen stretchy keyboard covers which might be a good option, but haven't seen one small enough. While I Google, does anyone already have a dust cover they like?
  9. I don't know the sound on that track, but I had need of a growly synth pad sound the other day and found this video. Antti has also uploaded the tones to CustomTone so if there is something along the lines of what you want you could tweak his.
  10. This may help you @tiagovalverdee That link may help if you are stuck in a reboot cycle.
  11. Ok, thanks @spaceatl. Sounds like I need to try some and see what I think before taking the plunge. Slightly tricky at the moment with the lockdown/restrictions but I'm thinking now I will see if I can hook my Pod up to a friend's monitors to get a feel for it. Thanks again for the thoughts. DM
  12. Thanks @spaceatl for looking into it. Looking at the dimensions I can go to the 5" . I take your point about the 4" being a bit small. Even the 5s are only a foot tall! Do you use active speakers/monitors yourself with the Pod? I wondering about how much difference it really makes vs the practice amp at "bedroom levels". DM.
  13. Hi All, I'm hoping for some advice. I just play at home, or in a friend's home for jamming. I've been using my Pod HD 500X with either headphones or plugged into the "CD Input" of my 15w practice amp. The CD input bypasses the pre-amp. Headphones are Sennheiser HD280Pros (64 Ohm closed back). Amp is a Peavey Rage 158. Peavey don't seem to get much love, but I really like this little amp. It's versatile and quite loud! I enjoy playing out loud and I think it sounds and feels better than in the headphones. I leave the output mode on Studio Direct as it sounds better to me than via the more "correct" Combo Power Amp setting. I have been looking into an active speaker setup as many are saying this allows modellers to shine. FRFR / Powercab-style options are far bigger than I can use from the point of space and volume. I suppose my requirements are: Noticeable improvement over using my practice amp CD Input Suitable for small, untreated room Bonus: good for mixing as well as playing guitar I am eyeing the Tannoy Reveal 402 model. They seem small and designed for small rooms. I already have some Tannoy hi-fi speakers in the room so they would blend in. They have XLR inputs. Manufacturer page: https://www.tannoy.com/product.html?modelCode=P0C46 Various retailers: https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/Reveal402--tannoy-reveal-402-4-inch-powered-studio-monitor https://www.thomann.de/de/tannoy_reveal_402.htm https://www.andertons.co.uk/tannoy-reveal-402-studio-monitor-(single-unit) Does anyone have any views on these speakers and whether they would be suitable for use with the Pod HD in my circumstances? Do you think it would be a noticeable upgrade? Thanks in anticipation, DM.
  14. Summary: try some lubricating contact cleaner before you replace the switches. I've just had a good experience fixing non-functional footswitch buttons on my Pod HD 500X. There are plenty of posts and even Youtube videos about this, but I have a couple of additional tips that might help someone. My FS1 and Bank Up footswitch buttons had gradually stopped stopped working. The design of these units is that the metal footswitch you press has a spring-loaded plunger that in turn activates a microswitch on the Pod circuit board. There are two long, horizontal printed circuit boards that carry the two rows of footswitches. You can see them here: https://www.fullcompass.com/prod/280562-line-6-50-02-0234-top-and-bottom-switch-pcb-assembly-for-hd500x It seems that the microswitches tend to stop working over time on these Pods and on other products across the L6 portfolio as they are commonly used behind footswitches. My Pod is out of warranty, so I was considering desoldering the individual microswitches and replacing them (possible and cheap but fiddly), or purchasing a replacement PCB (easier replacement but more expensive). Before I did that I tried using a lubricating contact cleaner and was pleasantly surprised that it has brought the buttons back to life. It was a cheap and easy fix. Please, if you try this, take electrical safety precautions and protect the device from electrostatic discharge from yourself. If you don't know what those things mean then don't open the Pod. Method 1 - tried and successful Start with the Pod facing downwards on your bench, so you are looking at the back of the device and can see the case screws with their ringed rubber feet. I opened up the Pod with the 8 case screws. I then removed the 12 small screws fixing the PCB carrying the affected micro switches to the metal switches. I carefully rotated the PCB so the microswitches were visible and applied a small amount of the contact cleaner (using the applicator straw) to the affected switches. Refixed everything. Tested and working. Method 2 - not tried but I think would be successful and easier As above but don't bother removing the PCB. Simply use the applicator straw on your contact cleaner spray and squirt "upwards" onto the microswitch. Give the switch a few pumps to work it in and get the Pod back the right way up quickly so gravity can help you. Method 3 - not tried and not sure it if would work but probably worth a go and would be the easiest Don't even open the Pod. Using the applicator straw, dribble contact cleaner down the shaft of the metal switch, where it would eventually reach the microswitch. Risk here is that you end up using excessive amounts, but probably a good option if you feel uncomfortable opening up the Pod and can't have Line 6 do the job for you. The switch cleaning lubricant I used was Servisol Super 10. There are others. Don't use a contact cleaner that does not contain a lubricant unless you want to be doing it again soon. Hope this helps save some Pods, DM
  15. Ah... so it was "repaired" for the same problem 9 months ago? That makes me think There is a hardware problem with that unit If it was repaired 9 months ago the repair may have a warranty on the actual repair work. If you can demonstrate that it is the very same fault that you paid to be repaired then the Service Center may be able to repair it again, or, preferably, replace whatever module is causing the issue without further cost. By comparison, if I pay to have a new clutch for my car at an authorized dealership, and the new clutch fails within a month, then the new clutch is faulty, even if the whole car is out of warranty. I would explore that with the service center. If you like the 500x you might be able to buy a used one for the price of a repair. I am suspicious of something like a broken solder joint, loose connector or something grounding that should not be. It is odd that only reverb is affected. If you have a friend with a soldering iron who knows how to use it they might have a look at the boards and connections for you. Did the service center say what they "fixed" last time?
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