soundog

I had similar problems on my 700 Acoustic; the selection would randomly jump back and forth between red (alternate tuning) and green (normal tuning). It turned out to be the switch location (height) being out of whack. I found articles online (can't remember where, but do some searches) on modifying the switch, and was able to get things working again. Haven't had problems since. That may be the case for you, but your problem seems more severe and widespread, so it very well could be electronics rather than mechanical.

Same here. And ... all my monitoring (headphones, multiple speakers) is done through my Apollo/interface.

As you can see, there are lots of options .... you gotta pick the one that fits your workflow and studio set up. A great thing about Helix is how flexible and adaptable it is! I choose the split path method (using a DI and audio interface) only because it works best for my workflow and studio setup. The "built in" USB direct method will get you to the same great sound.

I am using a Samson MDA1 active DI box to split the guitar signal. Then one signal can go (dry) into your DAW, and the other can go into your Helix for processing (and the L/R or mono outputs can go into your monitoring system). The MDA1 is a quality piece of kit, comparable to a Radial DI but more affordable. You can power it via phantom power (dry guitar signal, XLR cable into your Scarlet).

Interesting. It would be a good idea to let Line 6 support know about your findings. Line 6 doesn't read these forums for support info, and rely on users opening a ticket. And few of us (so far) have M1 systems to double check what you're seeing.

+1. Most of the work in getting Helix and Native matched is Native's input level (and making sure you don't overdrive your audio interface if you are using one rather than Helix/Stomp's USB).

Ears or a dB meter.

While Native's DSP code might be identical to that found in your Stomp, keep in mind there may be other variables when comparing the two. Your Stomp is self-contained. However, in your computer there are technical voo-doo things that go on before and after Native's DSP code. Variables are introduced that might even vary between computer systems. Perhaps you could use metering in your setup/DAW to ensure level consistency? If you leave Native input set to 0dB, you could use a gain plug-in to precisely set your input level. Thinking out loud: take the USB input from Stomp (place the gain control before Native for tweaking), and use a clean Stomp preset (no blocks). You could do some "null" experiments. Record a raw guitar track (no Native) from Stomp, invert the phase, and play the duplicate track through Native to see if they cancel. You'll need to ensure the samples are precisely aligned in time.

Are you referring to your earlier thread? At this point, you seem to be one of the most official words on the topic (the Line 6 officials don't participate in this forum to my knowledge). Perhaps you could do some null tests and experiments to put your mind at ease before setting sail. Please share your results, though, because I'm interested in your findings.

I should update this before replying to your questions. I've changed my setup a bit! I now run my guitar into a Samson MDA1 direct box (low cost, excellent quality), which splits the guitar signal. One of those signals goes to the Stomp input, the other (XLR, which also powers the Samson) into Apollo input 1. I take a mono wet signal out of the Stomp into Apollo channel input 2. When tracking guitar, I monitor the wet signal for inspiration (through Apollo headphones, mixed with my DAW output), but record the dry/Apollo 1 guitar signal. @vanb777, this gives a more robust guitar track level that I'm used to and can control; the Stomp USB record level is also too low for my liking (I adjust Native's input level accordingly). And, yeah, I now monitor the guitar with headphones into the Apollo. All my audio ins/outs (and headphones/monitors) are controlled through the Apollo; keeps things more manageable.

For gigging, buying a decent dB meter is a great investment. There are also decent dB meter apps for phones that work OK. Just be sure to measure consistently (speaker volume and meter location) between presets.

Let us know how your experimenting goes. Its challenging to eliminate all variables to get identical sound from a computer/software vs a dedicated piece of hardware, but Line 6 states that the DSP code is the same between Helix and Native, so theoretically you should be able to get identical results. In my case, I'm not going through USB (Stomp) to my computer (Mac). I'm going through an audio interface (Apollo Twin), then into the Mac via Thunderbolt. I split the raw guitar signal with an active direct box; one signal goes into the Stomp and one into the Apollo. I went that route to retain all my audio ins and outs within one interface. Also, I was able to tweak levels (Apollo intput, Native input and output) to get a good Stomp-to-Native match, as well as getting what I consider to be healthier input guitar levels/waveforms in my guitar tracks. While I never took the time to to try for a perfect null test, I'm able to get a final guitar tone that sounds the same (to my tinnitus-riddled ears) through monitors, headphones, or PA.

You should be able to match your tones if you have a decent computer and your USB is going direct into it (no hubs). Have you tried adjusting your input and output levels in Native? That can have a major effect on Native's tone.(Its normal that the dry signal from input 7 look way too low). Also, be certain nothing changed in your Helix preset (IR, fx presets, etc). You might want to start with an empty preset on your Floor and Native first, get levels equal, then add a single block (like an amp), then build from there. Also make sure you are monitoring through the same speakers and system when comparing...

Hats off to you, Fenderflame, for sharing the video!! Hats off to anyone reading this!!

Mac? Windows? DAW? Native version? Etc....