grdGo33

Yeah I played a little with it on the weekend, it might be placebo, but they did seem to sound a lot better than the legacy cabs... Or even random downloaded IRs. It might be that the default settings are just better (cab + mic + mic & other settings), but I think it was with the Archtype lead amp and I could just switch amps or even cab settings, and just playings afterwards, and it just seemed to sound great! In contrast, I had largely given up using cabs/IRs, and instead majority of time just used the best IR in the world... Maybe there was some sort of issue with the original cabs which made some (most?) mic/cab/settings combinations sound not great, as I clearly recall having watched vids where people compared the PGO stock cabs with different IRs, and after slight tweaks like EQ and stuff they sounded pretty much identical... So strange, I do think they're better, but might have been old cabs needed specific tweaking to sound good, whereas new cabs don't and sound better with random/misc settings... I'll likely play more with it, revisit stock cabs and IRs, and try to figure out if or how much they really improved, but at this point, seems like they did! 0.o Yep, first thoughts; great upgrade from old stock cabs! :D Which btw seems to correspond to everything I've heard about the new cab system, which could have influenced also my early thoughts... (placebo?) lol

Sure you can, now should you want to? I think a drive or maybe compression pedal would make more sense, as they tend to be cheaper (you can get some good/decent $20 OD/distortion pedals from aliexpress, gearbest, etc.,) and the reverbs of the Go are more comparable to $400 reverb pedals. So for saving blocks, imho, would be better value to use the Go reverbs and get cheap outboard pedal for distortion or such. There's also a preset with 7 free blocks, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gtAbpBMMwKg, so choosing the cheapest amp (del sol 300 costs is 0??), you'll likely get more DSP available, as well as usable blocks, if you're using 4CM with your amp.

Same! Worked flawlessly upgrading from 1.4. Did anyone play with the new amps and cab system? Do they really sound better than legacy cabs? And if so, any recommendations for mics, cabs, settings, etc.? I've been mostly using the best IR in the world, I think this new cab looks promising, with the diagram, which btw you can move the mic location & distance from, might be a bit more intuitive than legacy cabs. I'm guessing that the more you move off-axis, the more the high end will be subdued, and I guess maybe the mids and bass will be affected too. I'm hoping that it's somewhat linear, and you can somehow wrap your head about what moving more off axis will result in, which will allow you to easily tweak the sound, but I think it might still be more like trial and error... (won't have constant effect, and might vary by cab and maybe even mic...!)

https://line6.com/software/index.html?hardware=All&name=POD Go Edit&os=All&submit_form=set Sweet! Can't wait to install it later today.

For this, yeah, I'm using similar setup a silverhead described; instead of having speakers connected to the PC, you connect the speakers to the PodGo, podgo is connected to computer using USB, and you set your computer to output the sound of the computer via PodGo. And voila, you can then even play computer sound and podgo sounds at the same time.

Pretty sure it'll bypass the FX loop block as well. But my recommendation was more a different solution; the issue as I understood it was a requirement to bypass podgo. Using FX loop could be one, but it requires customization for every patch. If you're gigging it's likely the only solution if you want seamless switching. But if you're just playing as a hobby, and just want to switch from one device to another without having to plug and unplug cables, and don't want to have to customize every single one of your 86 patches with a custom FX Loop snapshot that disables blocks and enables FX Loop, the tuner option might be simpler. I'm not 100% sure it's 100% bypass though, as it might use some features (noise gate, boost/cut volume, etc.?), but likely should be good enough if you're not recording your next record with it! ;) Could also be useful if one day you own more than 1 multi-fx unit, so thought I'd mention the idea. :) But yeah, you'd have say guit -> amp emu pedal -> pod go -> computer/speakers/whatnot, and basically have to bypass either device to use the other. Otherwise yeah, I'd also go with snapshots; disables all blocks except FX-Loop and vice versa. And with the 4 cable method, you could also use the FX Loop amp pedal in Go..

You could also try to enable tuner volume, and simply hit the tuner. If I'm not mistaken, it'll pass the direct signal, then no need for a custom patch or whatnot, always 'bypass' enabled at the push of a button!

There's also a "1/4" XLR Combo Jack Connector" connector whichallows both XLR & 1/4 TRS... I think that 1/4 jack is more common on cheaper equipment than XLR, so likely a better match for budget PGO... To add to the confusion, "A TRS cable can carry either a balanced audio signal or a stereo audio signal, depending on what audio output you connect the cable to" https://www.swamp.net.au/balanced-stereo-trs-cable.html https://producerhive.com/buyer-guides/accessories/ts-vs-trs-cables/ From the Pod Go manual: So yeah, as you stated, not super clear from text/manual, but for Pod Go specifically, not designed to output Stereo from either Main Out TS/TRS outputs. With other devices, YMMV. ("not super clear", actually, doesn't say <Stereo> on either, so maybe that makes it clear that since it's "L/MONO" & RIGHT, it's not "R/STEREO", so excludes the Stereo.. The FX LOOP output does specify SEND (STEREO).. Yep, logical!)

Think you should be able to use also the 'Main Out'. On the Left, it does specify mono, but the right has no mention of mono, so should be able to output stereo? Unless like silverhead said, the Go Right channel is also mono, and L6 expects users to use 2 cables to use the Main Out for stereo... (as a workaround; phones for TRS / stereo cable ...) Yeah I think silverhead is correct... :\

Likely this, as you're using PGO + whatever modeling the Katana is doing. 1) How is the Go plugged in the katana? Are you using 4 cable method? One way to bypass at least some of the katana modeling would be to connect the Go to the effect loop of the katana, if yours has one... 2) But also, depending on the patch you're connecting 'into' with the Go, might be that there's some compression or something... 3) I also recall that there's a setting in the global settings of the Go to set the output of I think main out instrument, so if you're using that, make sure it's instrument as it's probably what the Katana is expecting for its guitar or effect loop inputs. I'm guessing otherwise might 'overload' and maybe cause feedback?

What happened? Depending on what is broken, you'll probably be able to save some money by getting it repaired locally. Some posters have mentioned just a very cheap sensor dying, which can be easily replaced. In Canada, sadly, such repairs are often not super sensible giving ridiculous cost of manual labour; ex; electronics repair guy will charge $50 to look at the unit and $100 / hour for repair... But I'd hope India would be more reasonable. Cheapest of course would be buying a $20 solder kit and repairing it yourself, but that does take some skill...

yep, this page https://helixhelp.com/models/ describes what's what in Go vs Real. Bit weird Spider manual doesn't describe its effects, older models had at least basics described... But yeah dozen vs hundreds... ok list here, doesn't seem to correspond to Go... Also, if you have a looper, very convenient to play 2-3 riffs, loop, and edit without having to switch from edit to play to hear how the change sounds. Looks like Spider has android app, so looper, side by side android phone/tablet & PC editing with PGo edit would be optimal as for delays getting the right settings is pretty crucial.. But anyway, not sure how exact you have to be, half the fun is learning the device, trying out new sounds and learning the new amps/effects. Dialing a new tone once you've got the UI figured out isn't that hard. I'd recommend checking out the IR thread and getting the best IR in the world, that can alleviate things quite a bit as you don't have to mess around with cabs and mic settings, and can learn amps & effects.

Don't own the DS1 but appears you're right; Comments seem to agree too. The models should be the same. Maybe another setting; amp, IR, amp sag, cab, etc., was different and that affected your impression, but to my knowledge, except the newer amps modeling in the Helix, all the effects should be identical between Helix, Stomp, Go, etc. The good news is that if you love and use the DS1 often, it would be ideal to stick between the guit and the Go; it's very versatile, as in, could use with most patches as distortion or boost (think it does boost decently too?), and not only is it cheap enough so that it doesn't eat into the budget of the Go too much, it even adds to go as it saves a valuable block & DSP. Plus, unlike other effects, it's ideally placed before the Go.

Nice! So solved? Just formatting, reinstalling everything and the problem went away?

Yeah who knows! Very weird getting tons of static when plugged USB ... ! Formatting might have been a bit over the top; possible you had some setting somewhere; be it under windows settings, in the DAO software you were using, etc,. format sometimes is the only recourse, but checking out setting and all typically can solve issues. For Go, think it uses ASIO driver (installed with PodGo Edit?), or that was the recommended option/driver to configure to use with Audacity or other, low latency, etc., but any driver should work as per sound quality, maybe something was off as in bitrate or I don't know what else... Have you tried plugging the Go directly to your Yamaha monitors? Would have been great test; and as mentioned; using headphones, etc. Looks like the HS line has TRS connectors, so 2 guitar cables should do the trick, definitely something you should try! Even with just 1 speaker. Just make sure to connect 'Main' output of Go to the HS! And yeah 100% those Yamahas are perfectly adequate and Go should sound fantastic once every issue is resolved! :D no need for FRFR lol