daveaphotopod

This is why I went with the Pod Express Black. I was initially turned off because it seemed too "metal" based. (I mean not that I don't like that type of music, but not what I was looking for) But when I learned it had the PRS Archon which has HUGE headroom, from what I know/understand, then I was sold.

Basically, it was acting as if the signal was too hot. I had initially thought it was just because of too much bass, but bringing that down did nothing. Apologies for the generic term of "flubbiness" but it wasn't as if there was ONLY too much bass. It was as if the PA speaker was getting overloaded (but I didn't feel as if it was because the volume wasn't overwhelming or anything. I had the volume dialed back on the PA, which leads me to believe it was just the signal going into it). So....my assumption is that the headphones account for volume and may give a false sense of security? And that if you set the dial on the side to be all the way up, and have the gain and preset volume (that's not the name, but I can't think of it right now) pretty high up that when you move over to a PA....ALL of that signal is going into the PA which is "too much" - Is that what is happening here? I used to own the POD GO and never ran into this. But to be fair my dial for volume on the POD GO was always set to noon. I am sure if I kept turning it up, the same would happen. I did notice on the summary page for the POD Express Black it says this: "The headphone output is load dependent and is specified for a load range of 8-1000ohms." First off, load dependent? What does that mean or is in reference to? Also, does that explain why there is a difference? Right now my PA is at the band space so I can't test, but my assumption is that I just need to dial back the intensity on the headphones (maybe to the detriment of it sound quieter in my ears, which isnt a bad thing) to allow it to sound better in the PA. I am wondering if it's just the type of headphones I am using too. (MDR-V6)

Apologies for getting your hopes up, but I don't have a solution, but I also experienced something similar on the POD Express Black. I changed 3 and 4 to delay/reverb and mod and it actually worked fine. But if I choose presets, it bounces up and down. It goes from one to the next and then....a random one?? Did you ever figure this out, or just give up?

For anyone that's confused, as I was, I sorted it out. The BOSS and POD GO are the same (and it appears that POD EXPRESS is too. The reason the inverter is there is because that green adapter which allows the power to "fit" into the line 6 inverts the polarity. The red one inverts it back to negative. All that work because its just the size of the DC port, and how that cable is set up.

Apologies if this has been answered, but I took a peek and didn't see anything. So, here's the thing. I've watched older videos on the CS6 power supply where we have to use the "red" cable (polarity) and the green cable to adapt to line 6. But then I am peeking at the back of the POD GO right now and it's center negative. Unless I am reading that wrong. But then I looked at the Blues Driver I have and that's the same icon!! I have not had issues, and I assume of course that Truetone/1spot knows their stuff, so I must just suck at reading icons. Having said all that, I confused myself. I have a POD Express coming in soon and I don't know how to power it. I did check the manual and it says center negative. Soooooo.....does that mean I don't need the "red" cable?

With the footswitches attached to the POD GO, the default is for the lights to go on and off. I purchased a Hotone Amoero footswitch, and was able to get it working perfectly. BUT...I soon realized at practice that there's no real way to determine if it's on or off. Sure, if it's distortion vs clean....just use your ears. But otherwise, forget it. I did eventually swap over to the view where you can see the pedal chain, but you REALLY have to peek at it to see whats on and off. So, does anyone do this in a live situation? Did you end up replacing (or buying, initially) a pedal that DOES have a light? It's a "catch 22" because this doesnt need power, and I'd rather just use the power supply that comes with the pod go and nothing else. And the reason for the extra 7/8 switches is for a solo boost. But now I am realizing it may not work. Thoughts? What do you do?

Ah good point, I should verify that (which I will do shortly by opening a ticket) Also I just realized that I may have worded that incorrectly. When you brought up the impedance, I was conflating that with a buffer (I know they're not the same, but I know buffers adjust the impedance. Which is probably where I connected the two in my head.) Having said all that, if it is one of the newer units, do I still need to feed my guitar directly into the fuzz? Or can I place it into the fx loop and put that first in the chain? The logic there being that I am not sure if the fuzz going into the POD GO is messing with THAT impedance, therefore messing everything else up down the line. Hope that makes sense. I guess my main question is if I have to plug my guitar cable into the analog fuzz, or the cable is fine going into the POD GO and will sound the same if placed in the FX loop. Also, I did see a video online, linked below regarding the second inquiry I have. The built in fuzzes do sound "good" because on Helix the impedance can be adjusted and the POD GO from what I read has auto impedance, so as long as the fuzz is at the beginning of the chain, that's what the POD GO refers to.

If I have one that I want to use with the POD GO, it makes most sense to put it before the input of the POD GO itself, correct? As opposed to in the FX loop, even if it's at the beginning of the chain? And sort of a related question: Does this mean that the fuzzes in the POD GO never really sound as good as they could? Because there's actually a buffer at the beginning, plugging into the POD GO? (let me know if I am confused about any of this) I suspect that's not an oversight on their part, but then it just confuses me even more. Because if THAT doesn't matter.....then CAN we just add "physical" fuzzes into the FX loop then, without worrying about if a buffer makes them sound "wrong"?

Select input instead of line in....in the amp/cab block? Huh? Am I missing something? I am not having the same issue as the OP but I happened upon this post and now I am confused lol

Ah, interesting. I don't pretend to be a know-it-all, but what a random effect to be dsp intensive.....and a drive, at that! I mean I can think of about 4 drive pedals that have way more options/settings than the Prize Drive, so while I accept that the beta testing proved it to be too intensive, it just seems.....random, to me.

...no new effects? I know that the Helix got the prize drive, but no love for the POD GO? (if I am being honest, for that particular pedal, it's no the "end of the world" and will justify me making the purchase for the physical pedal) - but I bring this up because if memory serves me, we won't get another update in a while, no? To be fair, I didn't go through old posts to see if any of that is true, but as I recall - in the past - the big updates added both new pedals and amps, and there weren't any "supplemental" updates in between. Am I wrong? Has there been any discussion about any new effects?

Well, that's the impendence issue going into the POD GO, which appears to hae been resolved on newer units and was formerly (and maybe currently, in some cases) fixed by putting a pedal in front of the POD GO. But the issue he is showing in that video is that when he adds the fuzz, and even with it turned off but still in the chain, it affects how the amp sounds. It sounds different than with the amp and the fuzz not added. Basically all of this comes down to this: I am concerned that if I add the Arbitrator Fuzz, then turn it off, with my amp sound different than if I had never added the fuzz to the chain at all? In the video, he shows that it sounds duller with it turned off, but still in the chain, on the Helix

So I was watching this older video of Jason, which is actually already outdated because of a firmware update from line 6, but I had what is hopefully a simple question He mentioned that "auto" doesnt work in this case, because if you disable the fuzz, it's not true bypass. He does provide a workaround, and again, line6 addressed this. But is this not an option on the POD GO? (I didn't see it, but I don't have mine turned on right now as I type this) And even if the "auto" setting sets it to 10k so that the fuzz sounds good (as it should, at least), are we screwed as POD GO users if we bypass it and screw up the impedence going to the amp by doing so? I know that this would happen in the real world, but in the real world we can put buffers after the fuzzes haha If I missed something, please let me know!

I was just playing with this effect myself. Do you happen to have a link to that Helix video? I do get a ducking effect, but....only kinda sorta. When I stop playing, it just abruptly disappears. Which I understand is the point of ducking....so that when you stop, the delays duck out of the way. But it doesn't sound great. It sounds as if someone stepped on the delay pedal to turn if off in the middle of it doing its thing. Sorry, I know that wasn't much help, but hey....if nothing else, I am ALSO having issues with that effect.

Normally, I would add them before the amp, even when using actual pedals. But I chose the "strings" one today (I think that was the one. I am not in front of my POD GO right now) and it sounded MUCH better, after the amp. Before the amp, for lack of a better description, it seemed to lack sustain. After the amp, it had sustain and seemed "fuller". Has anyone else experienced this?