loser7787

Hi guys, loving Helix Native so far but wondering if there are any tips to reduce latency further. I am running it on a track in Reaper, I have reduced my buffer size to 128 in the Line 6 device control panel. This has considerably reduced latency with record monitoring turned on the track but I still can feel the smallest bit of it and would love to be able to get rid of that, I did see another post saying to "optimize your OS for audio production" is this a checkbox somewhere or is it tweaking various settings, if someone could elaborate I would appreciate it. I also have an HD 500 I was going to try to see if this would help with latency at all but figured I would check for any tips here as the UX setup is always just ready to go. I am running an i7 7700k, 16GB so I do not think CPU power is the issue. I appreciate any help!.

Hey everyone, I've done extensive reading over years on the dream rig and seem to still have a few questions wondering if I can have some clarification. My DT25 head was out of commission for awhile. A new tube replacement fuse and replacing all the tubes and biasing and its as good as new. I just got an Avatar 2x12 with a V30 and G12H30 and im eager to start fresh and setup the dream rig from scratch. Here we go. 1) I am connected via VDi cable from JTV-59 to my HD500. I have always set my 1st input to variax or guitar and input 2 to variax. to keep from the doubled tone I read about. Seems like it gives you a small gain boost with it doubled but to my ears it sounds more pure without it doubled. I was also reading a bit about the Line 6 Link output with Left/Right and that seems to double the signal as well although to my understanding it sums it to mono. Does this essentially mean if you don't know from experience that when you first build a patch your signal is doubled with the inputs set incorrectly and the ANOTHER instance of your signal is there with the left/right enabled on top of it? Main question being will running it left only again cut out a doubling of the signal? I figure this will give me a single more clear and defined tone. Also will setting it to Left only affect any stereo effects that would otherwise be summed to mono? 2) I remember seeing this in the first dt promo videos. I understand flipping on LVM will change the presets you have setup from the pre amp model and make it the full model to achieve the digital power amp modeling BUT the video and forum posts here and there claim as you turn the volume up in 10 Watt LVM mode the tubes will start to distort and slowly fade from digital power amp distortion to actual physical tube power amp distortion. I also hear it does not use the physical tubes at all in this mode. Which is true? 3) I am also using it as a bedroom amp and I have no problem setting up 2 sets of patches for each environment. If I've learned anything from using line 6 all these years is if your going to switch setups in anyway then you should start your patches from scratch to dial in the sound. Anyway I forgot how LOUD this thing is. First band practice back with it I have the master at 1.5-2 and its almost too much! After some tweaking....like setting my cleans to max volume and setting the much louder, higher gain settings down to have consistent volume between patch changes. BUT I was thinking about ordering a weber mass mini 50w attenuator to tame my volume while still cranking the master on the pod hd and the dt. It seems like keeping the pod hd master at max to provide the hottest signal to the dt is best if your trying to get the tubes to break up and having the dt master around 12-3 oclock. I feel like for most situations ill be drowning out my band mates. The attenuator would also be useful at home to where I can keep 1 set of presets with preamp models and use the attenuator to get the tone where I need it to be.I understand pure volume and speaker distortion etc. contribute to the holy grail of tone im looking for but for practice im sure it will do. Any tips/info if truly appreciated.

THANKS! Changed output to 16bit 48000Hz and I have sound! Will test ins and outs later!

No go for me. I uninstalled everything and installed the new monkey. Installed drivers and the same exact problem, cant get it to work. Anyone else have success?

Nice! I think this has to do with the new line 6 monkey and not the windows 10 update to RTM. I just opened monkey and got prompted for an update and the release notes are: This version of Line 6 Monkey adds support for Windows 10. Installing now and will report back.

I received the RTM build (10240) a few days ago and no change. Like stated above the test tone fails to play in the playback devices dialog box. Hopefully a windows 10 driver soon! I would assume its the same driver but has anyone tried to pod studio drivers? Neeeeeeeed my toneport!

I took the jump last night to the insider preview build 10162 and same results here. Installs fine but in the line 6 midi/device panel it shows the driver is inactive. I tried several times and different ways. Tried compatibility mode installs even force installing generic usb audio drivers to get some sound for now but no dice. This is with a UX1 by the way. Saw another post saying the hd 500 works fine in windows 10, I might give that a try. I have mine setup with monitors and the 1/4's out and it is my main sound as well. I might use xlr's out from my hd 500 for the time being if its working. Hopefully we get a driver sooner rather than later. About to install build 10166, i'll update if anything changes but I doubt it will. Hopefully Line 6 has the July 29th release date in their heads and are working on it. I believe windows 10 is the same driver model as 8/8.1 maybe it just needs a few small tweaks.

Thanks guys! I did call line 6 about a month ago and they gave me a part number and a site to get it from but the part number didn't come up at all ha. I just ordered from the mouser links posted above. Hoping it was indeed just a blown fuse and not the tubes failing but I ordered a few extra just incase. Thanks again for the input!

Same thing happened to me after moving it so often. I used a little gorilla glue around the base where the cord comes out and around the edges and its been solid since then.

I know this is awhile later but just trying once more. Just playing with the HD500 direct to some monitors has sounded great and delayed me attempting to replace the fuse. Finally think I'm going to call Line 6. I am located in the US if that helps find the correct fuse. I am reading about people replacing the tube protection fuse. Does anyone have a link for DT25 replacement fuse. I just got my JTV and I am itching to get the dream rig up and running. Would this work? http://www.amazon.com/Cartridge-Fuses-250V-375A-Slo-Blo/dp/B00LQPQ1EC I am finding .375 Amp 250v slow blow fuses but some of the picture show a smaller looking fuse than I need. Any help is appreciated. Thank you.

CAN'T WAIT FOR WINTER NAMM!!! I was pretty positive I was going to spend my tax return on a JTV-59 to complete the dream rig BUT I might have to wait to see what new products or updates are announced now. I've been a Line 6 fan since the Pod 2.0 through the xt and the now the HD and DT amps. With each new series of Pod or variax, spider etc. Has always been a substantial upgrade in my opinion. I remember my dad taking me to a music store and them plugging in a pod 2.0 and being BLOWN away...how could it get any better? I was probably 15-16 at the time, starting my first band. (Was running a Ibanez RG into a boss metal zone, into a Kenwood home stereo amp into an 18 Inch PA speaker, thats it!) Then the XT came out and again I lost my mind and again with the HD. Sorry nostalgia took over. Either way i'm getting that feeling again. Can't what to see what is next!

Anyone, please! I am really hurting not having my DT up and running. Obviously people here have ordered replacement fuses. Just need a link to the correct tube protection fuse. Please and thank you!

Hi guys, My DT25 stopped outputting sound recently. I thought it was something different because it happened immediately after updating the firmware to 2.00. After downgrading and checking wires/connections I tried the direct out into my toneport and it worked fine. Upon further inspection I found the tube protection fuse is fried. I understand this usually happens when a tube goes bad but I took the back panel off and there is no sign of tube being blown out or damaged. No discoloration or anything like that. I figured I would order a few fuses and if it blows again I will replace the tubes. Problem is I cant find the exact fuse I need. There were 2 forum posts here with the right fuses but going back they are all crossed out and saying they are in fact not the correct fuse. To my understanding I need a .375 Amp / 375 Milliamp 250v Slo Blo fuse. Can someone please send me a link or two where I could purchase these just so I don't need to wonder if i'm in fact buying the correct fuse. Any help/comment is appreciated. Thanks.