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About Lag-ato

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    Just Startin'

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  1. Add me to the list, I think. Must have gone wrong somewhere when I was using my condenser. What have you guys found as the best course of action? I have one of the very first runs of Helix Floor. Even has some of the dreaded dead pixels on the scribble strips. I bought it from Sweetwater. I'm sure I'm out of coverage from either company. Which should I do? Support Ticket with Line6 directly, or Sweetwater? Should I expect either company to take care of it because of its seeming fault in manufacturing? If not, how much should I expect it to cost? Have they fixed this issue in later models, or will this continue to happen? I hope your gear is treating you well. I kinda need my mic pre for live performance! Thanks for any and all advice.
  2. Is the blue socket the power cable?
  3. How are you getting the signal to your monitors? Direct or through a computer? The demos of stock presets don't sound too different from what I would expect. But the compensation in EQ in the later demos sounds like it's overcompensating for your listening environment. The demos did sound quiet. I'm not sure what setting you have the volume. Could be an element. Possibly not. And I'm not even sure about the listening environment part. However, I dislike the Orange models for exactly the reason you're here. I imagine the cab blocks are a large portion of the culprit. I'd recommend staying away from them. I don't really want to type out a huge wall here, but (EDIT: here I go apparently) my recommendation is to look at the internal routing like an actual tube situation. (Also, before I continue, I want to point out that I strongly disagree with your statement that minor EQ can compensate for a muddy guitar/pickup. Sound starts there. Pots, pickups, material. Huge impact.) I rarely go to these high gain amp models for my high gain tones. I'm a bit of a different player, but look back at some of the great high gain pioneers. Also, you might think you need more gain than you really do, but that's a different conversation and I don't want to seem like I'm patronizing you. I am personally getting very good higher gain results with more classic amps. I think it might benefit you to explore that realm for multiple reasons. One, it'll simplify some of the structure. Going with an amp that "doesn't have" a master volume simplifies the gain sounds. Knowing the difference between preamp and power amp distortion is a good lesson. It can really guide you to how you want to push your amp. But I want to take one step back with that in mind. Going back to a more classic amp, get a good clean tone. One that sparkles in the way you want. Lush, but not boomy. Then start to push the amp from there. I'm not a huge fan of TS style pedals, but they play their place in tone shaping. They cut some lows and really notch out your tone. I'd recommend a Centaur for a flatter type of drive to push the tone toward what you want. Then pushing the drive on your "masterless" model to continue. An alternative to the drive on the amp could be as simple as a clean boost (EDIT: Clean boost could be as simple as a flat EQ with up to 12db of gain across the board. Or +6 to the mid section and +12 to the highs on the Simple EQ) to slam the front end of the amp. You'll get some nice play with the harmonics going on. I also suggest (if I haven't already. It appears I'm writing exactly as much as I didn't want to.) from there to start playing with the mics and their placement. Start with just one cab. One mic. It'll isolate the variables in the rig and you can grow from there. You'll be better for it. At least it's good for me, anyway. It really helps to have some good tube amp experience to guide you through. It really informs you on what kind of beast you're dealing with. For instance, I don't particularly care for Rectifiers for their muddiness indeed. So that's already one step toward what your problem is. I experienced muddiness with most of the high gain models. 5150 might be closer to the bite you're looking for. I am personally having a lot of success with the Bassman. I visit other amps like the AC30 (fawn or not, one of the most capable amps of all time) from time to time, but I keep going back. Then again, I go between rock/metal to blues/jazz, so it's a nice little setup for me. Just recently though, I've changed the stock cab with the mic six or so inches away and some early reflection to a blackback with an 84 condenser up close. I wasn't liking some low end flub that was happening, so I tightened it up in a 412. This is all to say that there are options. And it's not all necessarily EQ. There are so many characteristics to explore that EQ just won't solve. In conclusion, I'd say take a look at your pickups (I'm not particularly familiar with yours). And take a look at how you're feeding your signal to your monitors. I imagine it's going through your computer somehow. Could be your interface. Maybe there's some knob turned on your digital "console." If it's not a matter of a dark guitar or a monitoring signal path snafu, take a look at how you're creating your tone. EQ should be a last resort. If you can master edge of breakup tone, you can easily step into the high gain world from there with all the bite and nuance you've ever desired. That's what edge of breakup is all about. Now that my dissertation is done, I've been inspired to go mess with the Helix. This thing is really great. I've learned even more because of it. Mostly about cabs and mics, and how they react in a space. It really is a guitar studio in a box.
  4. Lag-ato

    8 is not enough

    We could just have the foot switches scribble strips label every pedal that's assigned to it upon holding (like pedal edit mode). Either depressed or just touched. It shouldn't interfere with pedal assignment because when you hold a touch you use the main screen to confirm or deny anyway. This was a quick thought. I'm not sure if either method interferes with other parameters.
  5. Just as an update. My issue is resolved with the help of Line6 Support. I ended up losing my work because the updater wasn't recognizing the Helix. I did the factory reset without even thinking that I hadn't (and still haven't) tried the Helix Editor. I feel like a fool for the unknown possibility I could have saved it, but such is the risk I took not updating all along the way. Interesting side effect is that all the patches seem to be a lot louder than they were before. It's kinda nice. Things are going to be a lot easier moving forward. Having put months into certain patches I know where to go a little better. I'm excited to have the unit back.
  6. Thank you. I am hoping the same. You guys have been here in the trenches since before the unit came out, so I'm hoping to get some good eyes on the issue. I took your advice to action and created a ticket after some searching through other posts. Someone stated a hardware issue that scares me, but I am hopeful that I can at least save my work and move forward. Here's to hoping there is no cost in this issue. I have loved the unit, and it has spent its life on my studio floor. I can't imagine what went wrong physically with the device or why this issue would take so long to rear its head. Too many saves and edits on a long enough timeline? I've only had it since November-ish. I look forward to someone like DI responding. Otherwise I am waiting on a response to my support ticket.
  7. First time poster; This seems like the proper thread for my issue. I've got what might be called the black screen of death. Everything has been great for the couple of months I've had the Helix. There has been only one or two glitchy screens upon booting over this time. This morning I booted up for a session to arrive at a black screen and mostly blank scribble strips. Only the top row of assigned switches showing up (Trinity chorus and Looper fwiw). I figured it would be as easily fixable as the previous glitchy screens via a shutdown and reboot. No such luck. After four reboots it is still the same. Oddly, on one reboot the looper scribble went away, leaving the Trinity by itself, but it came back on the next reboot. I still get sound, but no physical controls are working. Capacitive touch or otherwise (even volume knob). So at least for the moment I'm getting the straight AC30 tone to get me by, but this is a huge bummer to the inspiration this morning. I digress. A few notes on my usage of the unit: It shipped with 1.01.2 software, and I have done no updates. Probably pretty silly of me. I've never even bothered with connecting it to my Mac. I just dove in and tweaked the amp presets to my desire. This is a large part of my dilemma. I would do the factory reset, but I don't really want to lose my tweaked patches. I assume there's some experience here for how I should proceed. All help and direction is greatly appreciated. I would love to get back to a working screen and my old patches to pick up where I left off. I believe that's all the pertinent information. Please help this poor uninformed soul.
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