Nos402

No I do not know that which is why I asked. Since the Nexus has the ability to power the D10 I didn't know if MAYBE it would at least power the guitar if not be able to "control" it. However in further thinking, even if it DID power it, I feel fairly certain there would be no audio so that wouldn't do much good. I guess a part of me HOPED that maybe it would at least power it and have audio, but just just couldn't "control" it by selecting guitars, pickups, tunings, etc. but I realize that's 99.9% probably not the case. I would just like to know with 100% certainty if anything at all happens if you hook the guitar up directly.

Just curious, does hooking a Variax up DIRECTLY to the Stadium just do nothing now? I am NOT a fan of the fact that I will now need to spend over $200 for an outboard piece of gear (Expand D10) to have the same Variax functionality as I've always had with my Helix, on top of the $2200 for a Stadium XL. The cost is one factor but I also just like the all-in-one solution of my Helix and don't want to have to bring and hook up another piece of gear. If I keep my Stadium XL pre-order, I may just go back to using my Variax with the battery and 1/4" output, though I hate to do that as I currently have ever preset recall guitar/pickup/tuning in the Variax as well. And sometimes change tunings for a slide solo or such. Just trying to suss out if I want to lose some of my favorite functionality for the benefits of a Stadium, or deal with a D10, or maybe just play my non-Variax guitars more (though my JTV-69 remains my #1 guitar and I am deeply disappointed Variaxes were discontinued as someone who has used one since the very first model)! DILEMMAS.

I know that with Stadium you need the Expand D10 for Variax control (boooooo) but I'm curious if anyone knows if plugging the Variax into the Stadium directly (without the D10) will at least POWER it, even if I can't fully control it.

It is a bummer though. I mean I see the same jack for Nexus so it just feels like having the Variax support in there wouldn't be a big lift. I wonder if it would at lest POWER the Variax without the accessory even if you can control any Variax functions.

Oh they are making REAL hard for me to not want to upgrade! Now the ONLY downsides are having to use an outboard accessory for Variax support (I quite often use Variax with VDI for no brainer guitar/pickup/tuning switching with presets and snapshots) and the fact that I own 2 Helixes so I have a backup when one needs a footswitch repaired or such. I use my Helix for EVERYTHING including MIDI keyboard control with many different bands.

Just watched the videos about the upcoming Helix Stadium. Pretty cool but I'm HOPING I can resist the GAS and just keep using the 2 helixes I own which I'm totally happy with. 2 question arise for me though: 1. What are the models it ships with? 2. While they have made it VERY tempting by being able to import my old presets (I cannot imagine having to recreate the hundreds of presets I've made for many bands including MIDI control of my keyboard), I'm curious to know how it handles the translation. If I'm using an amp, effect, etc. that's not in the Stadium, how does it handle that?

I was trying to figure out how to approximate a Vox Conquerer amp that The Beatles used on a lot of their later stuff. I know it was a "hybrid" tube/SS amp, so I ran a Vox AC30 preamp block into a Roland JC120 amp/cab block. Seemed to work fairly well! So I was just wondering if any of you had other ideas as to how you'd go about it! Thanks!

Just curious how many of you bother to convert old presets to the newer amp models vs. just leaving them as is with the "legacy" model. Usually I will convert, but since it doesn't save the amp settings when you go to thew new amp model, occasionally if I really like the preset, I'll just leave it on a legacy model rather than try and re-tweak all the settings on the newer version.

I see a lot of talk about best FRFR solutions for running the helix into, but I'm curious as to what y'all would say if I want ONE solution to run both Helix AND my Nord Stage 3 in for live shows, that could ALSO be used for my bass gigs running through a Zoom modeler. I've been using a QSC k10.2 which I have 95% LOVED as it has two inputs with two separate pass-throughs and tons of great useful config presets. HOWEVER, several times now I've had it cut off with the "Protection Mode 4: possible speaker damage detected" error that apparently is VERY widespread among people using it like I do, and also much to my surprise, at some gigs I need to run it really high to keep up (I don't like those volume levels, but sometimes it's necessary to keep up with some bands). I really like the "amp" style units like Powercab or the new Fender ToneMaster with easier access to the controls than "monitor" types where everything is on the back and you can't see a clipping light if it's lighting up, however it seems most of the "amp" types aren't designed to handle bass. Would my best bet be a bass amp or keyboard amp instead? So many ways to go. One friend of mine has been totally happy with his Headrush speaker. I just want a loud, all-in-one FRFR solution for Helix, Keys, and bass! I mean I know it's a lot to ask, but surely it's possible.

Just found this thread as I too am a K10.2 user for Helix, Nord Stage 3, and Bass (either direct or through a modeler). I have had this happen to me on both guitar and keys at gigs, and just figured it was probably somehow user error on my part as discussed here but it's super frustrating to lose all sound on stage (at least it continues through to the house) and then have to power cycle the monitor and go through the test tone. I find myself thinking I too should just look for another solution which sucks as I REALLY like the QSC, the ability to plug both my Helix and Nord into separate inputs and send each separately to the house, and the various presets available on the speaker. So much good, but if it's going to cut out on my then it's fairly useless.

This makes me incredibly sad. Since the very first Variax, they have been my #1 guitar and pretty much all I use both live and in the studio. I feared this day might come because not enough people used them. And I've had to replace volume knobs and piezo saddles several times over the years so I know it's just a matter of time before I'll probably be forced to abandon them. This seriously bums me out. The Variax was probably my favorite thing to ever happen in guitar technology and I use the HELL out of them in MANY different bands. Depend and rely on them in fact.

I had my tech at Strait Music do it to be safe.

I never found one nor did my authorized service center. I did end up finding the entire UI assembly (Volume, Tone, Model Select, Tuning Select, Pickup selector) and bought that since it was my only option. This is what I got for my JTV-69.

Ah good. I got the right ones! Thanks!

On fullcompass I only see one JTV piezo part available! I guess we'll see as I ordered 2 and am just waiting to get it back from the shop now!

I think yours might be the video I had seen before! I ordered 2 piezo replacements and it's in the shop right now awaiting the procedure. However now I hope I got the right parts! I didn't see more than one kind so I figured all the piezo saddles were the same!

In all the descriptions I read it says this amp had a Bass and a Treble control. Does that mean the "Low Mid" and "High Mid" controls are just extras added after the amp model? I really miss the very detailed model descriptions Line 6 used to provide about the history and use of the models as well as things like "This amp only had these controls so the rest are just post-amp extras. If you're looking for accuracy leave those on 5 and just adjust the ones that were on the original amp." I loved reading all the descriptions and details!

I get that but why the inconsistency? For example as seen in the images, on the Woody Blue it's Ch Vol then Master but on the Agua 51 it's Master then Ch Vol.

Yeah but what's baffling me is why it's usually Ch Vol > Master but on a few models it's Master > Ch Vol.

EDIT: Nope this doesn't appear to be it as several of the models that DO have a Master Volume on the original amps are still Ch Vol > Master. So I'm not sure why a few of them are Master > Ch Vol. Just noticed the Del Sol 300 also orders them Master then Ch Vol. Is it maybe that if the Master comes BEFORE Ch Vol then the original amp had a master volume control but if Master come AFTER the Ch Vol then maybe the original did not have a master volume control? I'll have to do some research!

I've noticed that on all the other amps (I think) that the "Master" parameter comes AFTER the "Ch Vol" parameter but that on the Agua 51 it comes BEFORE the Ch Vol parameter. Is this intentional and has some actual logic or meaning or just a single inconsistency?

Yeah obviously, I was hoping that the new neck would NOT affect the tone! And maybe it's not, I'm just trying to figure out why my two Variaxes sound different and that was the biggest change I've made to my original!

I have one of the original run of JTV-69. Over the years I had the body custom painted. I recently had to replace the entire PCB board/knob assembly to finally fix a volume pot with scratchyness and dead spots. I also put a really nice $750 custom Warmoth neck on it. Tonight I was comparing to my Variax Limited Amethyst (basically a Variax Standard in a limited color) model and noticed that I thought that my Standard sounded better. Naturally this was disappointing. The new neck on my JTV is much thicker so I was surprised that my JTV sounded a little thinner. Of course it could also be many other things, thus why I'm asking the question. I have 2 piezo saddles on order because the tope two strings (the B string in particular) sound weaker and duller than they should compared to the rest and compared to the mags so that's kind of what I was troubleshooting when I noticed my Standard seemed to sound fuller and better. Is the neck a likely culprit? It's a big beefy neck with an ebony fretboard and stainless frets and a compound radius, if any of that makes any difference.

Oh yeah I got mine when they first came out so warranty is long gone. And I'm just trying to avoid shipping my guitar and being without it for that long not to mention I don't trust any of the carriers any more! so many horror stories!

I just watched a youtube vid of someone who had a "dull" D and replaced the piezo and it fixed it. I may have to look into it. I hate that I haven't had the best experiences with my "authorized service center" so I don't have a lot of trust that they really know Variaxes well. In the meantime, I went into workbench and took the lowest 4 strings down by 3bB and that at least seems to have things sounding even for the moment. I just wonder how much that is going to affect my sound related to the Helix presets I have set up, specifically in regards to the amount of gain. Like is that small enough that it won't matter much, or maybe a formerly "crunchy" patch will not have quite as much crunch any more?