Nos402

In all the descriptions I read it says this amp had a Bass and a Treble control. Does that mean the "Low Mid" and "High Mid" controls are just extras added after the amp model? I really miss the very detailed model descriptions Line 6 used to provide about the history and use of the models as well as things like "This amp only had these controls so the rest are just post-amp extras. If you're looking for accuracy leave those on 5 and just adjust the ones that were on the original amp." I loved reading all the descriptions and details!

I get that but why the inconsistency? For example as seen in the images, on the Woody Blue it's Ch Vol then Master but on the Agua 51 it's Master then Ch Vol.

Yeah but what's baffling me is why it's usually Ch Vol > Master but on a few models it's Master > Ch Vol.

EDIT: Nope this doesn't appear to be it as several of the models that DO have a Master Volume on the original amps are still Ch Vol > Master. So I'm not sure why a few of them are Master > Ch Vol. Just noticed the Del Sol 300 also orders them Master then Ch Vol. Is it maybe that if the Master comes BEFORE Ch Vol then the original amp had a master volume control but if Master come AFTER the Ch Vol then maybe the original did not have a master volume control? I'll have to do some research!

I've noticed that on all the other amps (I think) that the "Master" parameter comes AFTER the "Ch Vol" parameter but that on the Agua 51 it comes BEFORE the Ch Vol parameter. Is this intentional and has some actual logic or meaning or just a single inconsistency?

Yeah obviously, I was hoping that the new neck would NOT affect the tone! And maybe it's not, I'm just trying to figure out why my two Variaxes sound different and that was the biggest change I've made to my original!

I have one of the original run of JTV-69. Over the years I had the body custom painted. I recently had to replace the entire PCB board/knob assembly to finally fix a volume pot with scratchyness and dead spots. I also put a really nice $750 custom Warmoth neck on it. Tonight I was comparing to my Variax Limited Amethyst (basically a Variax Standard in a limited color) model and noticed that I thought that my Standard sounded better. Naturally this was disappointing. The new neck on my JTV is much thicker so I was surprised that my JTV sounded a little thinner. Of course it could also be many other things, thus why I'm asking the question. I have 2 piezo saddles on order because the tope two strings (the B string in particular) sound weaker and duller than they should compared to the rest and compared to the mags so that's kind of what I was troubleshooting when I noticed my Standard seemed to sound fuller and better. Is the neck a likely culprit? It's a big beefy neck with an ebony fretboard and stainless frets and a compound radius, if any of that makes any difference.

Oh yeah I got mine when they first came out so warranty is long gone. And I'm just trying to avoid shipping my guitar and being without it for that long not to mention I don't trust any of the carriers any more! so many horror stories!

I just watched a youtube vid of someone who had a "dull" D and replaced the piezo and it fixed it. I may have to look into it. I hate that I haven't had the best experiences with my "authorized service center" so I don't have a lot of trust that they really know Variaxes well. In the meantime, I went into workbench and took the lowest 4 strings down by 3bB and that at least seems to have things sounding even for the moment. I just wonder how much that is going to affect my sound related to the Helix presets I have set up, specifically in regards to the amount of gain. Like is that small enough that it won't matter much, or maybe a formerly "crunchy" patch will not have quite as much crunch any more?

I have some Deoxit already (and alcohol as well) so I'll give it a shot!

Lately I've noticed my top 2 strings (B and high E) seem lower volume than all the rest. I messed with it today in Workbench and I had to take all the other strings down 3dB to make it all sound good again. I've been playing this guitar as my #1 since 2012 and this is definitely a fairly recent development. Any ideas on what it could be or things I can try?

This is exactly what I'm worried about and why I'm looking into other options like wiring in a regular pot. I LOVE my JTV-69 but it's already considered an "old" product at this point, and volume pots will always eventually need replacing. It sucks having my main #1 guitar out of commission simply because of a faulty pot that I can't replace and as you mentioned, it's only going to get worse as the years pass being such a specific part. I had actually thought about searching for a used JTV but I just got a Variax Limited Amethyst as my backup (and current since it's the only one working). I've used Varaxes since the very first one and I have no desire to go back to regular guitars. I have a custom finish on my JTV as well as a very expensive custom Warmoth neck, so I'd really like to keep it functioning as opposed to just getting a new one! Guitars aren't disposable! In short, I agree with your sentiments, and it's a shame that this is such a pain. I love my Variaxes!

I have open support tickets (no responses yet) for both the pot and the screw.

Firstly, I know the official Line 6 response is "DO NOT MODIFY YOUR INSTRUMENT. WE DO NOT SUPPORT THIS." But my JTV-69 has been in the shop now for 3 months because they can't find a replacement volume pot (this is an official authorized Line 6 service center). This is my #1 guitar and I'm missing it! This is also the second time I've needed a volume pot replacement. Are there any "unofficial" solutions? I know it's a proprietary "ganged" pot with different tapers for magnetics and modeling, but I need a working guitar. Does anyone know what would happen if someone just soldered in a regular volume pot or something? Strangely I noticed today that the dead spots, drop outs and crackles happen only when rolling DOWN in modeling mode and only when rolling UP in magnetics mode. Also, for the sake of this thought experiment, I only use modeling mode. I never use the mags. I just want my main guitar back in working order!

My JTV-69 has been in the shop for over 2 months awaiting a new volume knob. This is an authorized Line 6 repair shop and I spoke to the tech today who said they have just not been able to find a JTV volume knob replacement anywhere. They thought they had found one but then were sent the wrong knob. This greatly worries me about the future of my guitar as this is the second time I've replaced it and I'm sure won't be the last as volume knobs are probably the most replaced part on an electric guitar. I am curious what the effects would be if someone just wired up a regular volume pot instead of the much more complicated JTV post on a PCB board.

I just acquired a Variax Limited Amethyst as my new backup Variax (my main is a JTV-69) and I find as with all strat style screw in trem arms that I can't stand how wobbly and loose it is. I know on Strats they recommend using the little springs that go in the whole, but on this guitar the trem hole goes all the way through so the spring would just fall out I imagine. I've also read tons of folks using plumber's tape but I tried that and found that as soon as I unscrewed the bar again, it was all gone, and I have to unscrew the bar to put it in my gig bag and really don't want to apply tape every time I play. I had heard good things about the Callaham replacement blocks, but of course this one has the little circuit board on thee trem block so that seems out as well. Any other ideas? I'm at a loss here! Luckily I don't use the trem much, but when I want to, man I HATE those screw in arms.

So I took a chance on a third party Variax battery that was cheaper and also has a slightly higher capacity. I knew it was possibly a gamble, but It SEEMS to work fine. One quirk is that while normally charged batteries get the slow blinking light (like my other original Variax battery), this one gets the fast blinking "faulty battery" light. Is it possible that it's just because it's not an official Line 6 battery? I've only used it once so far, but when inserted it shows 4 dots and seems to have a normal duration I think (though I've never tried going more than one gig on a single charge yet).

I think this mails it pretty good for me. I went ahead and ordered a QSC K10.2 but yeah, I'm not super picky about the on stage sound as I will usually be running direct, and will feed it direct to the PA. Never the less I do like to have good gear so after a ton of researching and discussing the QSC is what I settled on as it seems pretty universally loved.

After much consideration, research, reading, and discussion with people who know far better than me, I've opted to get a QSC K10.2. I ordered one but now we wait for them to actually come back in stock!

The only reason I wrote it off was that at one point I asked support if it was okay to use the Spider for Bass and they said they wouldn't recommend it above bedroom levels.

So I play a Variax into a Helix. In some bands I play bass and sometimes Keys as well. Usually I run my Helix direct and use in-ears. Occasionally I play with bands who don't want to have anything in their monitors that they don't absolutely need so they prefer some stage amps. Because of this I've considered some FRFR options. However since this isn't something I do often I don't really want to buy some of the more expensive options which are supposedly better. I've been considering the Alto TS312 which a buddy of mine swears by but in the videos I've watched it seems super bass heavy to me (some seem to have had better luck with the TS310 but I wonder if that would that be adequate for bass). My though is that if I get a FRFR I can use for guitar, bass, or keys when necessary. Ah, but I also have a Spider V 120 as a backup rig and in my tests, running my Helix into that with no amp/cab selected on the Spider seems to do a pretty good job for guitar. I don't think they were built to handle bass though. So since I already have a guitar "amp" option for my Helix, I *could* instead just get a small bass combo. Several friends recommend something in the Fender Rumble series, and one friend says used Carvin MB15s are great bang for the buck as they are discontinued. Opinions? 1. get a FRFR for bass, guitar and keys. 2. Use the Spider for guitar and get a small bass combo for bass. Thanks!

There's not a lot of details in there as to exactly WHAT the differences are. That's the first place I looked. I wish I could remember which iteration specifically talked about a Goldtop. I'm guessing it was a previous firmware version, or maybe one of my previous Variaxes (original, and then later 700).

I guess I meant from a more objective/technical perspective. Like "Oh well the Special used a different wood from the standard" or such. Just trying to figure out the differences not from a subjective sonic viewpoint but an objective technical perspective. Like Is Lester 2 basically the SAME guitar as Lester 1 but with different pickups or is it a different guitar? I know at one point in Variax software there was a goldtop but I don't see that mentioned in the manual any more.

So Lester 2 and 4 positions are a Les Paul Standard with P-90s while Special 1,3,5 is a Les Paul Special with P-90s, correct? IS there really any appreciable difference between these models?

I might just go ahead and order some D'Addario auto trim tuners as well as long as I'm "upgrading." At least then I know the specs.