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Everything posted by Nos402

  1. I've just spec'd out an AWESOME Warmoth replacement neck but my Googling has not yet been able to tell me the correct "Tuner Hole Size" for my JTV-69. Does anyone here have the answer handy? Thanks!
  2. EXACTLY! I was convinced it had to be a Helix XLR issue until I realized it ONLY happened on my audio interface, but it's totally baffling as to WHY it would always be the Helix's right XLR regardless of which input on the interface it's hooked up to. I cannot for the life of me figure out the logic there.
  3. So here's a weird problem I can't figure out. When I have both XLR outputs of my Helix hooked up to my Native Instruments Komplete Audio 6 interface, the right XLR from the Helix is significantly louder and also has a hiss. If I turn the Helix off the hiss gets worse and is even there if I unplug the unit. If I plug the Helix XLRs into my in-ears transmitter, all seems fine so it seems like it's just the audio interface. But the weird part to me is that it's always the Helix's right XLR that does this whether it's plugged into input 1 or input 2 of the interface, so it's not something wrong with one of the inputs. I've swapped cables as well. I've turned phantom power off on the interface. This one is truly baffling me.
  4. I know this is an old thread but I'm trying to have one installed on my JTV-69 and I got the exact one linked above (the Fender two-piece retrofit) and my luthier says it won't work. The bottom piece is curved and my slot is flat so the bottom piece already sits below the fretboard instead of flush. Hopefully the one-piece shelf style might work?
  5. Well damn. My luthier says that nut won't work because it's curved and the slot is flat and it's already flush so he can't file the bottom down. I wonder if I need a different model of Earvana. He seems to think I need one of the one-piece models.
  6. Wait, what? All the JTV-69 specs I've ever seen all say 12" radius.
  7. I'm guessing the Fender Retrofit 1 5/8" 12 radius?
  8. Does anyone know which Earvana nut I would use on a JTV-69?
  9. What if you are running two parallel paths in the Helix? I'm guessing the impedance would be set by the first block on path 1?
  10. And thanks for the extremely detailed lesson, Qwerty. It feels so weird to be 37 years into a guitar career and somehow not knowing this stuff. I've never been a vintage gearhead, or even really that much of a pedal freak so I just never had to deal with any super drastic effects like that.
  11. BTW, I edited my original post once I realized why I had only *just* encountered this problem.
  12. Wow, this is all new to me as I've primarily giggled with my Variaxes or used a wireless so I've never run into this until tonight. Just now I put an Arbitrator in front of an Essex 30, and to me the bypassed sound is just unusable. I don't remember ever encountering this before but likely because maybe it's just possible I never used a regular pickup guitar cabled into the guitar input and wanted a patch where I could kick fuzz on/off. I literally thought this was a bug and was about to file a bug report when I did a search and found this thread. Maybe in 37 years of playing, I just never ran a real tone-sucking impedance pedal. This is crazy! I feel like my world just got turned upside down and like "How the hell have I been a professional guitar player for 33 years and never had to deal with this?" My guess because I used wirelesses a lot, and likely pedals that just didn't have as drastic an effect as a Fuzz Face, I'd guess. And then I switched to Line 6 stuff from their first product (the AxSys 212) and Variaxes as soon as they came out. For now I set up a whole separate second path now which seems unnecessarily complicated for just wanting to toggle a fuzz on/off with no gain/tone loss, or setting Input Z manually and I'm guessing compromising the fuzz tone.
  13. Here's a pic of the Tremol-No laying on top of my JTV trem.The black allen screws are directly over the claw screw holes. You can see the JTV claw screws are closer together. The Tremol-No is the standard claw screw spacing I've had on every other guitar I've ever owned. That's the stock claw that came with my JTV-69 when I got it brand new as soon as they were released.
  14. Yes the screws on the claw that the springs attach to. They are Spaced narrower than standard. I discovered that when I went to install my Tremol-No when I first got my JTV-69.
  15. My other post has me thinking that I really want to install a Tremol-No in my JTV-69 but as mentioned in the other post, the JTV trem spring screws are closer together so I would have to fill them and re-drill for the Tremol-No. I've done this for a strap button before using toothpicks and woodglue but I have a few concerns here: 1. I don't know how I would get a drill in there deep enough at the right angle to drill new holes. 2. How would I make sure to position the holes exactly right? Just try and make sure the new screws looked equidistant to the old filled in holes? I feel like this shouldn't be that hard and I really want to do it but also want to make sure I don't mess it up or that it's not far more complex than I think.
  16. My JTV-69 has been my main guitar since it came out, but the only bummer for me was that I couldn't (easily) install my Tremel-No on it when I got it because the trem spring are set just slightly narrower than standard. Does anyone know if there is a reason for this? Now that being said, I've always found the Trem on this thing to be one of the most stable trems I've ever played with very little dipping of pitch when bending strings or doing double-stops and I have no idea how they accomplished this. I don't *think* the narrower spring spacing would affect that but I'm no luthier/phycisist.
  17. All the new presets are classic by default but there is a setting in each patch where you can set it to FR if you want to.
  18. Does anyone choose to use FR instead of "Classic"? I'm a bit puzzled by this new feature as it seems like isn't that removing half the "model" since you aren't modeling the original cab any more? Also, if I choose to run the XLR to the board (which would be how I always would run it live), then how does "classic" mode affect that? Do I need to switch all the new presets (which I notice are all Classic mode for the electric amps) to FR mode since I will never be using a mic on this amp? And random bonus question: Can the Spider V 120 (MkI with 2.0.0 firware) be used for bass or will that possibly damage the speaker? Thanks!
  19. I have a Spider V MkI as a backup to my helix. From everything I've read, I think that if I upgrade the firmware then there is no reason for me to "upgrade" to a MkII? Is that correct? For some reason when they first came out I thought I had read that the MkII did Full Range stuff (acoustic, for example) but MkI didn't or something like that. I had been trying to sell my MkI to get a MkII but now I'm thinking I might not need to if a firmware update will literally make them the same except cosmetic changes. Can someone confirm this? Thanks!
  20. This is so cool and interesting! I will definitely have to check these out in more details. I think I probably would have went with Vox AC-30TB or Plexi 100!
  21. 1. If you were going to just pick one all-purpose amp model to cover the widest variety what would it be? 2. Now you can add one effects set up as well (meaning anything in the Helix). What’s your rig?
  22. I often want to use just a single effect from Helix (such as just an EQ or Reverb on a non-guitar track or such). I know that in the past, Pod Farm has it's "elements" separated into single plugins (though strange no EQ element on its own). I'm just wondering if this is a viable use. In other words, if I load up Helix Native in my DAW and only have an EQ in the chain, is that a comparable processor load as just using a dedicated EQ only plugin?
  23. I was stuck at the error screen as well and the only thing that got me unstuck was UNINSTALLING HX Edit, and then reinstalling it, then opening updater and it saw my Helix again to re-update.
  24. NM, I realize now that the "hole" on top is the actual post adjustment itself. I think I got it figured out.
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